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Filed Pursuant to Rule 424(b)(3)
Registration No. 333-262242
PROSPECTUS
Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.
Up to 231,623,100 Ordinary Shares
Up to 20,116,667 Ordinary Shares Issuable Upon Exercise of Warrants
Up to 6,700,000 Warrants
This prospectus relates to the issuance by us of up to 20,116,667 of our ordinary shares, nominal value €0.02 per share (“Ordinary Shares”), which include up to (i) 6,700,000 Ordinary Shares issuable upon the exercise of 6,700,000 private placement warrants (the “Private Placement Warrants”) originally issued by Zegna in a private placement transaction in connection with the Business Combination (as defined below) at an exercise price of $11.50 per Ordinary Share, and (ii) 13,416,667 Ordinary Shares issuable upon the exercise of 13,416,667 warrants (the “Public Warrants” and, together with the Private Placement Warrants, the “Warrants”) originally issued to public shareholders of Investindustrial Acquisition Corp. (“IIAC”) in its initial public offering, and converted into warrants to purchase Ordinary Shares at the closing of the Business Combination at an exercise price of $11.50 per Ordinary Share.
This prospectus also relates to the offer and sale from time to time by the selling securityholders or their permitted transferees (collectively, the “selling securityholders”) of (a) up to 231,623,100 Ordinary Shares (including (i) up to 36,960,600 Ordinary Shares issued to certain selling securityholders concurrently with the closing of the business combination (the “Business Combination”) between us and IIAC, (ii) up to 6,700,000 Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of our Private Placement Warrants, and (iii) up to 187,962,500 Ordinary Shares currently held by certain selling shareholders) and (b) up to 6,700,000 of our Private Placement Warrants.
This prospectus also covers any additional securities that may become issuable by reason of share splits, share dividends or other similar transactions.
We are registering the offer and sale of the securities described above to satisfy certain registration rights we have granted. We are registering these securities for resale by the selling securityholders named in this prospectus, or their transferees, pledgees, donees or assignees or other successors-in-interest that receive any of the shares as a gift, distribution, or other non-sale related transfer. The selling securityholders may offer all or part of the securities for resale from time to time through public or private transactions, at either prevailing market prices or at privately negotiated prices. These securities are being registered to permit the selling securityholders to sell securities from time to time, in amounts, at prices and on terms determined at the time of offering. The selling securityholders may sell these securities through ordinary brokerage transactions, directly to market makers of our shares or through any other means described in the section titled “Plan of Distribution”. In connection with any sales of the securities offered hereunder, the selling securityholders, any underwriters, agents, brokers or dealers participating in such sales may be deemed to be “underwriters” within the meaning of the Securities Act of 1933, as amended.
All of the Ordinary Shares and Warrants offered by the selling securityholders pursuant to this prospectus will be sold by the selling securityholders for their respective accounts. We will not receive any of the proceeds from the sale of Ordinary Shares or Warrants by the selling securityhoderls or the issuance of Ordinary Shares by us pursuant to this prospectus, except with respect to amounts received by us upon exercise of the Warrants.
We will pay certain expenses associated with the registration of the securities covered by this prospectus, as described in the section titled “Plan of Distribution”.
The Ordinary Shares and our Public Warrants are listed on the New York Stock Exchange (“NYSE”) under the symbols “ZGN” and “ZGN WS,” respectively. On April 8, 2022, the closing sale price as reported on NYSE of the Ordinary Shares was $10.38 per share and of our Public Warrants was $2.20 per Public Warrant.
We may amend or supplement this prospectus from time to time by filing amendments or supplements as required. You should read this entire prospectus and any amendments or supplements carefully before you make your investment decision.
Our principal executive offices are located at Viale Roma 99/100, 13835 Valdilana loc. Trivero, Italy.
Investing in our securities involves a high degree of risk. Before buying any securities, you should carefully read the discussion of material risks of investing in our securities in “Risk Factors” beginning on page 7 of this prospectus.
Neither the Securities and Exchange Commission nor any state securities commission has approved or disapproved of these securities or passed on the adequacy or accuracy of this prospectus. Any representation to the contrary is a criminal offense.
Prospectus dated April 11, 2022
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You should rely only on the information contained in this prospectus, any amendment or supplement to this prospectus or any free writing prospectus prepared by us or on our behalf. Neither we, nor the selling securityholders, have authorized any other person to provide you with different or additional information. Neither we, nor the selling securityholders, take responsibility for, nor can we provide assurance as to the reliability of, any other information that others may provide. The selling securityholders are not making an offer to sell these securities in any jurisdiction where the offer or sale is not permitted. The information contained in this prospectus is accurate only as of the date of this prospectus or such other date stated in this prospectus, and our business, financial condition, results of operations and/or prospects may have changed since those dates.
Except as otherwise set forth in this prospectus, neither we nor the selling securityholders have taken any action to permit a public offering of these securities outside the United States or to permit the possession or distribution of this prospectus outside the United States. Persons outside the United States who come into possession of this prospectus must inform themselves about and observe any restrictions relating to the offering of these securities and the distribution of this prospectus outside the United States.
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ABOUT THIS PROSPECTUS
This prospectus is part of a registration statement on Form F-1 that we filed with the United States Securities and Exchange Commission (the “SEC”) using a “shelf” registration process. Under this shelf registration process, the selling securityholders may, from time to time, offer and sell any combination of the securities described in this prospectus in one or more offerings.
We will not receive any proceeds from the sale of Ordinary Shares or Private Placement Warrants to be offered by the selling securityholders pursuant to this prospectus, but we will receive proceeds from Warrants exercised in the event that such Warrants are exercised for cash. We will pay the expenses, other than underwriting discounts and commissions, if any, associated with the sale of our Ordinary Shares and Private Placement Warrants pursuant to this prospectus. To the extent required, we and the selling securityholders, as applicable, will deliver a prospectus supplement with this prospectus to update the information contained in this prospectus. The prospectus supplement may also add, update or change information included in this prospectus. You should read both this prospectus and any applicable prospectus supplement, together with additional information described below under the caption “Where You Can Find More Information.” We have not, and the selling securityholders have not, authorized anyone to provide you with information different from that contained in this prospectus. The information contained in this prospectus is accurate only as of the date on the front cover of the prospectus. You should not assume that the information contained in this prospectus is accurate as of any other date.
No offer of these securities will be made in any jurisdiction where the offer is not permitted.
On December 17, 2021 (the “Closing Date”), we closed the previously announced Business Combination pursuant to the Business Combination Agreement, dated as of July 18, 2021, as amended, by and among us, IIAC and EZ Cayman, a Cayman Islands limited liability company and our wholly owned subsidiary. For more information on the Business Combination, please see the section “Business—History”.
In this prospectus, unless otherwise specified, the terms “we”, “our”, “us”, the “Group”, the “Company” and “Zegna” refer to the Registrant, Ermenegildo Zegna N.V., a Dutch public limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap), following the Conversion and, prior to the Conversion, to Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A., a joint stock company incorporated under Italian law, in each case together with its consolidated subsidiaries, or any one or more of them, as the context may require.
CERTAIN DEFINED TERMS
In this prospectus:
“Affiliate” means, with respect to any Person, any other Person who directly or indirectly, through one or more intermediaries, controls, is controlled by, or is under common control with, such Person. The term “control” means the possession, directly or indirectly, of the power to direct or cause the direction of the management and policies of a Person, whether through the ownership of voting securities, by contract or otherwise, and the terms “controlled” and “controlling” have meanings correlative thereto.
“Audit Committee” means the audit committee of the Zegna Board.
“Business Combination” means the business combination between Zegna and IIAC, which was completed on December 17, 2021.
“Business Combination Agreement” means that certain Business Combination Agreement, dated as of July 18, 2021, by and among IIAC, Zegna, and Zegna Merger Sub, as amended or supplemented from time to time.
“Capital Distribution” means a return of capital distribution under Cayman Islands law whereby, on the Closing Date, immediately following the PIPE Financing and prior to the Share Repurchase, IIAC distributed the Capital Distribution Amount to Zegna.
“Capital Distribution Amount” means an amount of €191,806,537.10 plus $105,380,150.53.
“Cash Consideration” means an amount of €455,000,000.
“Class A Shares” means the Class A ordinary shares, par value $0.0001 per share, of IIAC prior to the Merger.
“Class B Shares” means the Class B ordinary shares, par value $0.0001 per share, of IIAC prior to the Merger.
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“Closing” means the closing of the Business Combination.
“Closing Date” means December 17, 2021.
“Compensation Committee” means the compensation committee of the Zegna Board.
“Conversion” means the cross-border conversion whereby, on December 17, 2021, Zegna, by means of the execution of a Dutch notarial deed of cross-border conversion and amendment of its articles of association, converted into a Dutch public limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap) and transferred its legal seat from Italy to the Netherlands and amended its articles of association, as a result of which Zegna assumed its current legal name “Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.”
“DCGC” means the Dutch Corporate Governance Code.
“Demerger” has the meaning set forth in “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.”
“Disposition” has the meaning set forth in “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.”
“DOSs” means directly operated stores.
“DTC” means direct-to-consumer.
“Effective Time” means the time the Merger became effective on the Closing Date.
“Escrowed Shares” means 50% of the Ordinary Shares that were issued to the IIAC Initial Shareholders in exchange for their Class B Shares, which Ordinary Shares are held in escrow subject to the release conditions described in the prospectus.
“Exchange Act” means the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, as amended.
“Forward Purchase” means the transactions contemplated by the Forward Purchase Agreement.
“Forward Purchase Agreement” means the forward purchase agreement between IIAC and the FPA Purchaser, dated as of November 18, 2020, as amended on July 26, 2021.
“FPA Purchaser” means Strategic Holding Group S.à r.l., an affiliate of the IIAC Sponsor.
“Governance and Sustainability Committee” means the governance and sustainability committee of the Zegna Board.
“Hedged Positions” means the hedging positions and arrangements that effectively transfer the economic interest of any member of the Sponsor Group in Zegna to a third party (e.g., forward sale contracts); provided, that the definition of “Hedged Positions” shall not include hedging positions and arrangements (a) in which the economic interest of any member of the Sponsor Group in Zegna is retained (e.g., pledges and margin loans), (b) that minimize exposure to certain risks independent of the business operations of Zegna (e.g., currency exchange swaps) or (c) that marginally cap or limit the upside/downside risk of any member of the Sponsor Group while maintaining material economic exposure (e.g., puts, calls and collars), as determined in good faith by the Zegna Board and such member of the Sponsor Group.
“IIAC” means Investindustrial Acquisition Corp., a Cayman Islands exempted company.
“IIAC Initial Shareholders” means the FPA Purchaser, Sergio P. Ermotti, Audeo Advisors Limited, Jose Joaquin Guell Ampuero, Dante Roscini and Tensie Whelan.
“IIAC Ordinary Shares” means collectively the Class A Shares and the Class B Shares prior to the Merger.
“IIAC Private Placement Warrants” means the warrants that were issued to the IIAC Sponsor in a private placement at the time of the IIAC initial public offering consummated on November 23, 2020, each of which was exercisable for one Class A Share at an exercise price of $11.50 per share.
“IIAC Public Warrants” means warrants to acquire Class A Shares, issued as part of units in the IIAC initial public offering consummated on November 23, 2020, at an initial exercise price of $11.50 per share.
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“IIAC Warrants” means the IIAC Private Placement Warrants and the IIAC Public Warrants.
“IIAC Sponsor” means Investindustrial Acquisition Corp. L.P., a limited partnership incorporated in England and Wales.
“IIAC Sponsor Lock-Up Agreement” means the lock-up agreement, entered into at the Closing, by and among Zegna, IIAC Sponsor and the IIAC Initial Shareholders.
“Insider PIPE Subscribers” means certain inside subscribers among the PIPE Investors (including the FPA Purchaser, Sergio P. Ermotti and Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello).
“Lead Non-Executive Director” means the Zegna Director serving as lead non-executive director.
“Loyalty Register” means the separate part of Zegna’s shareholder register instrumental to Zegna’s loyalty voting structure.
“Merger” means the merger of Zegna Merger Sub with and into IIAC, with IIAC being the surviving company.
“Minimum Holding Requirement” means the beneficial ownership (as such term is defined in Rule 13d-3 under the Exchange Act) by the Sponsor Group, of at least 5% of the issued and outstanding Ordinary Shares, excluding (i) any Hedged Positions as evidenced by the IIAC Sponsor in writing and (ii) any Escrowed Shares that have not been released from escrow to the applicable Sponsor Group member.
“Monterubello” means Monterubello s.s., an Italian società semplice.
“New Warrant Agreement” means the Warrant Agreement entered into concurrently with the Closing, by and between Zegna, Computershare Trust Company, N.A., and Computershare Inc.
“NYSE” means the New York Stock Exchange.
“Offset PIPE Financing” means the private placement of 12,500,000 Ordinary Shares to the Offset PIPE Investors, for gross proceeds to Zegna in an aggregate amount of $125,000,000, pursuant to the Offset Subscription Agreements.
“Offset PIPE Investors” means investors in the Offset PIPE Financing pursuant to the Redemption Offset Agreements and the Offset Subscription Agreements.
“Offset Subscription Agreements” means those certain subscription agreements entered into on December 16, 2021, among IIAC, Zegna and the Offset PIPE Investors named therein.
“Ordinary Shares” means the ordinary shares, nominal value €0.02 per share, of Zegna.
“Person” means an individual, partnership, corporation, limited liability company, joint stock company, unincorporated organization or association, trust, joint venture or other similar entity, whether or not a legal entity.
“PIPE Financing” means the private placement of 25,000,000 Ordinary Shares to the PIPE Investors, for gross proceeds to Zegna in an aggregate amount of approximately $250,000,000, pursuant to the PIPE Subscription Agreements.
“PIPE Investors” means the investors (including the Insider PIPE Subscribers) in the PIPE Financing pursuant to the PIPE Subscription Agreements.
“PIPE Shares” means the 37,500,000 Ordinary Shares that were issued to certain securityholders in connection with the closing of a private placement offering concurrent with the Closing.
“PIPE Subscription Agreements” means those certain subscription agreements entered into on July 18, 2021, among IIAC, Zegna and the PIPE Investors named therein relating to the PIPE Financing.
“Private Placement Warrants” means warrants to acquire Ordinary Shares on the same contractual terms and conditions as the IIAC Private Placement Warrants.
“Public Warrants” means warrants to acquire Ordinary Shares on the same contractual terms and conditions as the IIAC Public Warrants.
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“Redemption Offset Agreements” means the agreements entered into on December 3, 2021, among IIAC, Zegna and the Offset PIPE Investors named therein relating to the offset of redemptions of Class A Shares by IIAC public shareholders up to a certain level.
“Registration Rights Agreement” means the registration rights agreement entered into at Closing, pursuant to which the IIAC Initial Shareholders and the Zegna Initial Shareholders have been granted certain registration rights with respect to their respective equity securities in Zegna, in each case, on the terms and subject to the conditions in such registration rights agreement.
“Sarbanes-Oxley Act” means the Sarbanes-Oxley Act of 2002, as amended.
“SEC” means the United States Securities and Exchange Commission.
“Securities Act” means the Securities Act of 1933, as amended.
“Shareholders Agreement” means the shareholders agreement entered into at Closing by and among Zegna, the IIAC Sponsor, Monterubello and Mr. Ermenegildo Zegna.
“Share Repurchase” means the repurchase by Zegna of 54,600,000 Ordinary Shares from Monterubello in exchange for the Cash Consideration.
“Sponsor Group” means the IIAC Sponsor together with its Affiliates.
“Sponsor Nominee” means the Zegna Non-Executive Director to be nominated by the IIAC Sponsor in accordance with the Zegna Articles of Association.
“Surviving Company” means IIAC following the Merger.
“Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares” means the terms and conditions that apply to the issuance, allocation, acquisition, conversion, sale, holding, repurchase and transfer of the Zegna Special Voting Shares and certain aspects of the registration of the Ordinary Shares in the Loyalty Register.
“Warrant Agreement” means the Warrant Agreement, dated as of November 23, 2020, between IIAC and Continental Stock Transfer & Trust Company, as subsequently amended by the Warrant Agreement Amendment and the Warrant Assumption and Amendment Agreement.
“Warrant Agreement Amendment” means the Warrant Agreement Amendment, entered into immediately prior to the Effective Time, by and between IIAC and Continental Stock Transfer & Trust Company.
“Warrant Assumption and Amendment Agreement” means the Warrant Assumption and Amendment Agreement, entered into concurrently with the Closing, by and among IIAC, Zegna, Continental Stock Transfer & Trust Company, Computershare Trust Company, N.A. and Computershare Inc.
“Warrants” means, collectively, the Public Warrants and the Private Placement Warrants.
“Zegna Articles of Association” means the articles of association of Zegna.
“Zegna Board” means Zegna’s board of directors.
“Zegna Board Regulations” means the regulations of the Zegna Board, as amended or supplemented from time to time.
“Zegna Director” means a Zegna Executive Director or a Zegna Non-Executive Director.
“Zegna Executive Director” means an executive member of the Zegna Board.
“Zegna General Meeting” means the corporate body that consists of the shareholders of Zegna and all other Persons with meeting rights and also the meeting in which shareholders of Zegna and all other Persons with meeting rights assemble, as the case may be.
“Zegna Initial Shareholders” means, collectively, Monterubello, Ermenegildo Zegna and the other shareholders of Zegna immediately prior to the Closing.
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“Zegna Merger Sub” means EZ Cayman, a Cayman Islands exempted company.
“Zegna Non-Executive Director” means a non-executive member of the Zegna Board.
“Zegna Shareholders Lock-Up Agreement” means the lock-up agreement, entered into at the Closing, by and among Zegna and the Zegna Initial Shareholders.
“Zegna Special Voting Shares” means, collectively, the Zegna Special Voting Shares A, the Zegna Special Voting Shares B and the Zegna Special Voting Shares C.
“Zegna Special Voting Shares A” means the special voting shares class A, nominal value of €0.02 per share, of Zegna.
“Zegna Special Voting Shares B” means the special voting shares class B, nominal value of €0.08 per share, of Zegna.
“Zegna Special Voting Shares C” means the special voting shares class C, nominal value of €0.18 per share, of Zegna.
NOTE ON PRESENTATION
This document includes the consolidated financial statements of Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. as of December 31, 2021 and 2020, and for each of the three years in the period ended December 31, 2021, prepared in accordance with International Financial Reporting Standards (“IFRS”) as issued by the International Accounting Standards Board (“IASB”), as well as IFRS as adopted by the European Union. There is no effect on these consolidated financial statements resulting from differences between IFRS as issued by the IASB and IFRS as adopted by the European Union. We refer to these consolidated financial statements collectively as the “Consolidated Financial Statements.”
Basis of Preparation of the Consolidated Financial Statements
As explained in section “Business” of this prospectus, on December 17, 2021 we closed the previously announced Business Combination pursuant to the Business Combination Agreement, dated as of July 18, 2021, as amended, by and among us, IIAC and Zegna Merger Sub, our wholly owned subsidiary. For more information on the Business Combination, see “Business—History.”
The Group’s financial information is presented in Euro. In certain instances, information is presented in U.S. Dollars. All references in this document to “Euro” and “€” refer to the currency introduced at the start of the third stage of European Economic and Monetary Union pursuant to the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union, as amended, and all references to “U.S. Dollars” and “$” refer to the currency of the United States of America (the “United States”).
The language of this document is English. Certain legislative references and technical terms have been cited in their original language in order that the correct technical meaning may be ascribed to them under applicable law.
Certain totals in the tables included in this document may not add due to rounding.
TRADEMARKS, SERVICE MARKS AND TRADE NAMES
This prospectus includes trademarks, tradenames and service marks, certain of which belong to Zegna and others that are the property of other organizations. Solely for convenience, some of the trademarks, service marks, logos and trade names referred to in this prospectus are presented without the ® and ™ symbols, but such references are not intended to indicate, in any way, that we will not assert, to the fullest extent under applicable law, our rights or the rights of the applicable licensors to these trademarks, service marks and trade names. This prospectus contains additional trademarks, service marks and trade names of others. All trademarks, service marks and trade names appearing in prospectus are, to our knowledge, the property of their respective owners. We do not intend our use or display of other companies’ trademarks, service marks, copyrights or trade names to imply a relationship with, or endorsement or sponsorship of us by, any other companies.
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MARKET AND INDUSTRY INFORMATION
Information contained in this prospectus concerning the market and the industry in which we compete, including our market position, general expectations of market opportunity and market size, is based on information from various third party sources, assumptions made by us based on such sources and our knowledge of the personal luxury goods market. This information and any estimates provided herein involve numerous assumptions and limitations, and you are cautioned not to give undue weight to such information. Third-party sources generally state that the information contained in such source has been obtained from sources believed to be reliable but that there can be no assurance as to the accuracy or completeness of such information. We have not independently verified any third-party information. The industry in which we operate is subject to a high degree of uncertainty and risk. As a result, the estimates and market and industry information provided in this prospectus are subject to change based on various factors, including those described in the sections entitled “Cautionary Note Regarding Forward-Looking Statements” and “Risk Factors” and elsewhere in this prospectus. The information relating to the industry contained in the section entitled “Business—Industry,” unless otherwise indicated, has been based on the Bain-Altagamma Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study, Fall 2021, dated November 11, 2021.
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This summary highlights certain information about us, this offering and selected information contained elsewhere in this prospectus. This summary is not complete and does not contain all of the information that you should consider before deciding whether to invest in the securities covered by this prospectus. For a more complete understanding of our Company and this offering, we encourage you to read and consider carefully the more detailed information in this prospectus, and any related prospectus supplement, including the information set forth in the section titled “Risk Factors” in this prospectus and any related prospectus supplement in their entirety before making an investment decision.
Our Company
Zegna is a Dutch public limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap).
We are a leading global luxury group, internationally recognized for the distinctive heritage of craftsmanship, quality and design associated with our Zegna and Thom Browne brands and the noble fabrics and fibers of our in-house luxury textile and knitwear business. Since our foundation in 1910, we have expanded beyond our luxury textile production to ready-to-wear products and accessories to become a highly recognized luxury lifestyle group. We design, manufacture, market and distribute luxury menswear, footwear, leather goods and other accessories under the Zegna and the Thom Browne brands, and luxury womenswear and childrenswear under the Thom Browne brand. Our product range is complemented by eyewear, cufflinks and jewelry, watches, underwear and beachwear manufactured by third parties under licenses. Our business covers the entire value chain as a result of our design, manufacturing and distribution business. Our goal is to provide customers with excellent products that reflect our tradition of fine craftsmanship with exclusive design content and with a style that preserves the exceptional manufacturing quality we are known for, through the sourcing of superior raw materials, the careful finish of each piece, and the way they are delivered to our customers.
In 2021, 2020 and 2019, Zegna recorded revenues of €1,292,402 thousand, €1,014,733 thousand and €1,321,327 thousand, respectively, (loss)/profit for the year of (€127,661) thousand, (€46,540) thousand and €25,439 thousand, respectively, Adjusted EBIT of €149,115 thousand, €20,013 thousand and €107,274 thousand, respectively, and Adjusted Profit/(Loss) of €75,332 thousand, (€4,752) thousand and €43,047 thousand, respectively. For additional information relating to Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted Profit/(Loss), which are non-IFRS measures, including a reconciliation of (loss)/profit for the year to Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted Profit/(Loss), see “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations—Operating and Financial Review and Prospects—Non-IFRS Financial Measures.”
The mailing address of our principal executive office is Viale Roma 99/100, 13835 Valdilana loc. Trivero, Italy and its telephone number is +39 01575911. Our agent for U.S. federal securities law purposes is Vincenzo Roberto, c/o Ermenegildo Zegna Corporation, 7th Floor, 10 East 53rd Street, New York, NY, 10022. We also maintain a website at https://ir.zegnagroup.com.
Implications of Being a Foreign Private Issuer
We are considered a “foreign private issuer” subject to reporting requirements under the Exchange Act, as a non-U.S. company with foreign private issuer status. As a “foreign private issuer,” we will be subject to different U.S. securities laws than U.S. domestic issuers. The rules governing the information that we must disclose differ from those governing U.S. corporations pursuant to the Exchange Act. This means that, as long as we qualify as a foreign private issuer under the Exchange Act, we will be exempt from certain provisions of the Exchange Act that are applicable to U.S. domestic public companies, including:
• | the rules under the Exchange Act prescribing the furnishing and content of proxy statements to shareholders and requirements that the proxy statements conform to Schedule 14A of the proxy rules promulgated under the Exchange Act; |
• | the sections of the Exchange Act regulating the solicitation of proxies, consents or authorizations in respect of a security registered under the Exchange Act; |
• | the sections of the Exchange Act requiring insiders (i.e., officers, directors and holders of more than 10% of our issued and outstanding equity securities) to file public reports of their stock ownership and trading activities and liability for insiders who profit from trades made in a short period of time; |
• | the rules under the Exchange Act requiring the filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission (the “SEC”) of quarterly reports on Form 10-Q containing unaudited financial and other specified information, or current reports on Form 8-K, upon the occurrence of specified significant events; and |
• | the SEC rules on disclosure of compensation on an individual basis, unless individual disclosure is required in our home country (the Netherlands) or is otherwise publicly disclosed by us. |
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We may take advantage of these exemptions until such time as we are no longer a foreign private issuer. We would cease to be a foreign private issuer at such time as more than 50% of our outstanding voting securities are held by U.S. residents and any of the following three circumstances applies: (i) the majority of our executive officers or directors are U.S. citizens or residents, (ii) more than 50% of our assets are located in the United States or (iii) our business is administered principally in the United States.
We may choose to take advantage of some but not all of these reduced reporting requirements of which we have taken advantage of in this prospectus. Accordingly, the information contained herein may be different from the information you may receive from other companies that are U.S. domestic filers, or other U.S. domestic public companies in which you have made an investment.
Risk Factors
Investing in our securities entails a high degree of risk as more fully described in the “Risk Factors” section beginning on page 7 of this prospectus. These risks include, among others, the following:
• | Our business depends on the recognition, integrity and reputation of our brands and on our ability to identify and respond to new and changing customer preferences. |
• | The COVID-19 pandemic or similar public health crises may materially and adversely affect our business. |
• | Disruptions arising from political, social and economic instability, geopolitical tensions or civil unrest, including the current conflict in Ukraine and sanctions imposed onto Russia, may adversely affect our business. |
• | We may not be able to successfully implement our strategy, including the successful consolidation of the shift toward luxury leisurewear, the successful design and introduction of new iconic products, the preservation of quality and the use of digital tools to strengthen business processes, attract new customers and retain the existing customer base, and growing the Thom Browne brand. |
• | Disruptions to our manufacturing and logistics facilities, including as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, may adversely affect our business. |
• | The sale of our products through our DTC channel and directly operated stores is subject to certain risks, including as a result of difficulties in renewing the existing lease agreements, increases in rental charges or declines in sales, which may adversely affect our business. |
• | In the wholesale channel, we are subject to certain risks arising from points of sale operated by third parties, and we are dependent on our local partners to sell products in certain markets. |
• | Fluctuations in the price or quality of, or disruptions in the availability of, raw materials used in our products, could cause us to incur increased costs, disrupt our manufacturing processes or prevent or delay us from meeting our customers’ demands. |
• | We could be adversely affected if we are unable to negotiate, maintain or renew our license agreements and strategic alliances. |
• | Shifts in travel patterns or declines in travel volumes, including as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, have had in the past, and may have in the future, an adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition. |
• | Changes in local economic, business, regulatory, social and political conditions, as well as changes in general economic conditions and changes in demand for luxury goods may adversely affect our business. |
• | Disruptions or breaches compromising our information technology systems or the personal information of our customers may adversely affect our business. |
• | We are dependent on the protection of our intellectual property rights and there can be no assurance that we will succeed in protecting such rights in the jurisdictions in which we operate. |
• | Changes in trade policy, the imposition of tariffs, the enactment of tax reforms and other changes in laws and regulations may have an adverse effect on the demand for our products and our business. |
• | Our business success depends on certain key personnel and on higly specialized craftmanship and skills. |
Corporate Information
We are incorporated as a public limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap) under the name Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.
On December 17, 2021, we implemented the Conversion upon which Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A., an Italian joint stock company (società per azioni), changed its name to Ermenegildo Zegna N.V., transferred its legal seat from Italy to the Netherlands and amended its articles of association.
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We are registered with the Dutch Trade Register under number 84808640. Our corporate seat (statutaire zetel) is in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. Our address is Viale Roma 99/100, 13835 Valdilana loc. Trivero, Italy. Since our incorporation we have had, and intend to continue to have, our place of effective management in Italy. Our telephone number is +39 01575911.
We maintain a website at https://ir.zegnagroup.com. Our filings with the SEC are available free of charge through the website as soon as reasonably practicable after being electronically filed with or furnished to the SEC. Information contained in our website is not a part of, nor incorporated by reference into, this prospectus or our other filings with the SEC, and should not be relied upon.
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Issuer | Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. | |
Issuance of Ordinary Shares | ||
Ordinary Shares offered by us | Up to 20,116,667 Ordinary Shares, consisting of up to to (i) 6,700,000 Ordinary Shares issuable upon the exercise of 6,700,000 Private Placement Warrants, and (ii) 13,416,667 Ordinary Shares issuable upon the exercise of 13,416,667 Public Warrants | |
Ordinary Shares outstanding prior to exercise of all Warrants | 242,343,659 Ordinary Shares (as of December 31, 2021) | |
Ordinary Shares outstanding assuming exercise of all Warrants | 262,460,326 Ordinary Shares, based on total shares outstanding as of December 31, 2021 | |
Exercise Price of Warrants | $11.50 per share, subject to adjustments | |
Use of Proceeds | We will receive up to an aggregate of approximately $231.3 million from the exercise of the Warrants, assuming the exercise in full of all of the Warrants for cash. We expect to use the net proceeds from the exercise of the Warrants for general corporate purposes. See “Use of Proceeds.” | |
Resale of Ordinary Shares and Private Placement Warrants | ||
Ordinary Shares that may be offered and sold from time to time by the selling securityholders | Up to 231,623,100 Ordinary Shares, including (i) 36,960,600 Ordinary Shares issued to certain selling securityholders concurrently with the closing of the Business Combination, (ii) 187,962,500 Ordinary Shares held by certain securityholders of the Company and (iii) 6,700,000 Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of the Private Placement Warrants | |
Private Placement Warrants offered by the selling securityholders | Up to 6,700,000 Private Placement Warrants | |
Redemption | The Private Placement Warrants are redeemable in certain circumstances. See “Description of Securities—Warrants” for further discussion. | |
Use of proceeds | All of the Ordinary Shares and Private Placement Warrants offered by the selling securityholders pursuant to this prospectus will be sold by the selling securityholders for their respective accounts. We will not receive any of the proceeds from such sales. |
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SUMMARY HISTORICAL CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL INFORMATION
The following tables show our summary historical financial information for the periods and as of the dates indicated.
Our summary historical financial information as of December 31, 2021 and 2020 and for each of the three years in the period ended December 31, 2021 was derived from the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
The following summary historical financial information should be read together with the Consolidated Financial Statements and “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” appearing elsewhere in this prospectus. The financial summary historical financial information in this section is not intended to replace the Consolidated Financial Statements and the related notes. Our historical results are not necessarily indicative of Zegna’s future results.
Consolidated Statement of Profit and Loss Data |
(Euro thousands) | For the years ended December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
Revenues | 1,292,402 | 1,014,733 | 1,321,327 | |||||||||
Other income | 8,260 | 5,373 | 7,873 | |||||||||
Cost of raw materials and consumables | (309,609 | ) | (250,569 | ) | (309,801 | ) | ||||||
Purchased, outsourced and other costs | (353,629 | ) | (286,926 | ) | (371,697 | ) | ||||||
Personnel costs | (367,762 | ) | (282,659 | ) | (331,944 | ) | ||||||
Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets | (163,367 | ) | (185,930 | ) | (177,068 | ) | ||||||
Write downs and other provisions | (19,487 | ) | (6,178 | ) | (1,017 | ) | ||||||
Other operating costs | (180,836 | ) | (30,399 | ) | (49,034 | ) | ||||||
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Operating (Loss)/Profit | (94,028 | ) | (22,555 | ) | 88,639 | |||||||
Financial income | 45,889 | 34,352 | 22,061 | |||||||||
Financial expenses | (43,823 | ) | (48,072 | ) | (37,492 | ) | ||||||
Foreign exchange (losses)/gains | (7,791 | ) | 13,455 | (2,441 | ) | |||||||
Result from investments accounted for using the equity method | 2,794 | (4,205 | ) | (1,534 | ) | |||||||
Impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method | — | (4,532 | ) | — | ||||||||
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(Loss)/Profit before taxes | (96,959 | ) | (31,557 | ) | 69,233 | |||||||
Income taxes | (30,702 | ) | (14,983 | ) | (43,794 | ) | ||||||
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(Loss)/Profit for the year | (127,661 | ) | (46,540 | ) | 25,439 | |||||||
Attributable to: | ||||||||||||
Shareholders of the Parent Company | (136,001 | ) | (50,577 | ) | 21,749 | |||||||
Non-controlling interests | 8,340 | 4,037 | 3,690 | |||||||||
Basic earnings per share in Euro | (0.67 | ) | (0.25 | ) | 0.11 | |||||||
Diluted earnings per share in Euro | (0.67 | ) | (0.25 | ) | 0.11 |
Consolidated Statement of Financial Position Data |
(Euro thousands) | For the years ended December 31, | |||||||
2021 | 2020 | |||||||
Assets | ||||||||
Total non-current assets | 1,073,193 | 1,175,898 | ||||||
Total current assets | 1,384,531 | 1,239,156 | ||||||
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Total assets | 2,457,724 | 2,415,054 | ||||||
Liabilities and Equity | ||||||||
Share capital | 5,939 | 4,300 | ||||||
Retained earnings | 498,592 | 893,236 | ||||||
Other reserves | 96,679 | (295,772 | ) | |||||
Equity attributable to non-controlling interest | 43,094 | 43,270 | ||||||
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Total equity | 644,304 | 645,034 | ||||||
Total non-current liabilities | 1,111,104 | 1,234,566 | ||||||
Total current liabilities | 702,316 | 535,454 | ||||||
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Total equity and liabilities | 2,457,724 | 2,415,054 |
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Consolidated Cash Flow Statement |
(Euro thousands) | For the years ended December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
Net cash flows from operating activities | 281,155 | 70,906 | 174,122 | |||||||||
Net cash flows (used in)/from investing activities | (82,004 | ) | 92,572 | 83,961 | ||||||||
Net cash flows used in financing activities | (64,105 | ) | (49,052 | ) | (267,486 | ) | ||||||
Effects of exchange rate changes on cash and cash equivalents | 7,454 | (7,761 | ) | 1,698 | ||||||||
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Net increase/(decrease) in cash and cash equivalents | 142,500 | 106,665 | (7,705 | ) | ||||||||
Cash and cash equivalents at the beginning of the year | 317,291 | 210,626 | 218,331 | |||||||||
Cash and cash equivalents at end of the year | 459,791 | 317,291 | 210,626 |
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Investing in our securities involves a high degree of risk. In addition to the other information set forth in this prospectus, you should carefully consider the risk factors discussed below when considering an investment in our ordinary shares and any risk factors and other information that may be set forth in the applicable prospectus supplement and any related free writing prospectus. If any of the following risks occur, our business, financial condition, results of operations and prospects could be materially and adversely affected. In that case, the market price of our securities could decline and you could lose some or all of your investment. Additional risks and uncertainties not presently known to us or that we currently deem immaterial also may impair our business operations.
Risk factors relating to Zegna’s business, strategy and operations
Our business depends on the recognition, integrity and reputation of our brands.
We design, manufacture, promote and sell luxury goods under a number of brands, including Zegna and Thom Browne and, until the full implementation of our rebranding strategy, our Ermenegildo Zegna, Z Zegna and Ermenegildo Zegna XXX brands. Our sales and our ability to achieve premium pricing depend on the perception, recognition and reputation of our brands, which, in turn, depend on factors such as product design, the distinctive character and the quality of our products and customer service, the image of our stores and those of our franchisees and other wholesale customers, the success of our advertising and communication activities and our general corporate profile.
The recognition, integrity and reputation of our brands are among our most valuable assets, which are influenced by several factors, some of which are outside of our control. Factors that may adversely affect our brands’ image include our inability to respond adequately to the needs and expectations of our customers with regard to the quality, style and design of our products, the dissemination by third parties of information that is untrue or defamatory, the commencement of litigation proceedings against us, as well as factors attributable to the parallel distribution and counterfeiting of our products. Each of these factors could harm the recognition, integrity and reputation of our brands, causing us to lose existing customers or fail to attract new customers, or otherwise having a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Our reputation may also suffer as a result of facts depending on our suppliers. While we closely monitor our suppliers to ensure that they comply with all applicable laws and regulations, if suppliers fail to comply with applicable law, including those relating to labor, social security, health and safety, or if they deliver products that are defective or differ from our specifications or quality standards or do not comply with applicable law, this could have adverse effects on our production cycle and cause delays in product deliveries to our customers, which in turn could damage our reputation, with possible adverse effects on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Our success depends on our ability to anticipate trends and to identify and respond to new and changing consumer preferences.
Our continued success depends in part on our ability to set and define product and fashion trends, and in part on our ability to identify and respond to changing consumer preferences in a timely manner. Our products must appeal to an evolving customer base whose preferences cannot be predicted with certainty and are subject to increasingly rapid change, while preserving the image and recognition of our brands. Although we dedicate considerable resources to market analysis and the identification of new fashion trends, we may not be able to promptly anticipate fashion trends or to quickly adapt to these trends during the design and manufacturing stages. If we fail to identify or promptly respond to new trends or changing consumer preferences, including concerns or perceptions regarding the sustainability and environmental impact of our products, our brands’ reputation may be affected, which could result in unsold products, a decline in sales to customers and could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
We are subject to risks related to the COVID-19 pandemic or similar public health crises that may materially and adversely affect our business.
Public health crises such as pandemics could adversely impact our business. The global spread of COVID-19, including more recently the highly transmissible Delta and Omicron variants thereof, led to governments around the world mandating restrictive measures, including quarantine, social distancing, “shelter in place” or similar orders, travel restrictions and suspension of non-essential business activities. The COVID-19 pandemic has caused significant disruption to the global economy, consumer spending and behavior, tourism, supply chains and financial markets, leading to a global economic slowdown and a severe recession in several of the markets in which we operate, which may persist even after all restrictions are lifted.
In connection with the COVID-19 pandemic and related government measures, we experienced suspension or slowdown of our production at our manufacturing and logistics facilities in 2020 and 2021, as well as delays in deliveries of raw materials from suppliers and of our products to wholesale customers, temporary closures of our DOSs and our distribution partners’ stores, as well as
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running costs related to our workforce, despite furlough or reduced hours schemes we implemented with respect to certain of our employees. While we continued to serve our customers through our remote selling and online e-commerce websites during the periods in which our DOSs were closed, the store closures resulted in a significant decline in our revenues and ability to generate cash flows from operations. For further information on the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on our results of operations and liquidity, see “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations—Operating and Financial Review and Prospects—Trends, Uncertainties and Opportunities.” The COVID-19 pandemic has also resulted in a decline in the level of consumer purchases of discretionary items and luxury retail products, including our products, caused by lower disposable income levels, travel restrictions, the prevalence of remote working arrangements and other factors. As a result of store closures and lower consumer demand, we experienced a build-up of inventory.
While the overall COVID-19 situation appears to have improved in countries that have rolled out vaccination campaigns, our business and operating results may be negatively impacted if the virus worsens or mutates, if vaccination efforts are unsuccessful or if regions or countries implement further restrictions to contain the virus. We may experience a new shutdown or slowdown of all or part of our manufacturing and logistics facilities, and of our stores. In the first months of 2022 we experienced minor delays in production in certain countries where a significant number of our and our suppliers’ employees had to stay at home after becoming infected with COVID-19. Since March 2022, due to a new wave of the virus in certain parts of the Greater China Region and the resulting lockdown restrictions, we have been required to close certain of our DOSs in the Greater China Region, and DOSs that remained open have experienced significantly lower customer traffic.
Management time and resources were required to be, and in the future may need to be, spent on COVID-19 related matters, distracting them from the implementation of our strategy. In addition, the prophylactic measures we are required to adopt at our facilities may be costly and may affect production levels.
Our suppliers, customers and other contractual counterparties may be restricted or prevented from conducting business activities for indefinite or intermittent periods of time. The COVID-19 pandemic may lead to financial distress for our suppliers or wholesale customers, as a result of which they may have to permanently discontinue or substantially reduce their operations. Any of the foregoing could disrupt our supply chain and/or limit customer demand or our capacity to meet customer demand and have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
The impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on our business, results of operations and financial condition will depend largely on future events outside of our control, including ongoing developments in the pandemic, the success of containment measures, vaccination campaigns and other actions taken by governments around the world, as well as the overall condition and outlook of the global economy. However, the effects on our business, results of operations and financial condition may be material and adverse.
The COVID-19 pandemic may also exacerbate other risks disclosed in this “Risk Factors”, including, but not limited to, our competitiveness, demand for our products, shifting consumer preferences, exchange rate fluctuations, and availability and price of raw materials.
We operate in many countries around the world and, accordingly, we are exposed to various international business, regulatory, social and political risks.
We operate in over 80 countries worldwide through a direct and indirect distribution network. For the year ended December 31, 2021, 54% of our revenues were generated in APAC, 29% were generated in EMEA, 15% were generated in North America and 2% were generated in Latin America.
Our operations in various international markets expose us to various risks, including those arising from: competition with local competitors (which may have greater resources and/or more favorable market positions); the diversity of consumers’ tastes and preferences and our ability to anticipate or respond to such tastes and preferences; changes in the political and economic environments in the countries where we operate; changes in regulations, including tax regulations, and the imposition of new duties or other protectionist measures; strict regulations affecting the import and processing of certain raw materials and finished goods; the occurrence of acts of terrorism or similar events, conflicts, civil unrest or situations of political instability; parallel imports of goods at terms inconsistent with our guidelines and distribution of our products, in violation of exclusive territorial rights granted to other importers and licensees (the so-called “gray market”). These or other factors may harm our business in international markets or cause us to incur significant costs in these markets, which could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
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The conflict in Ukraine and sanctions imposed onto Russia may adversely affect our business.
Due to ongoing conflict in Ukraine and resulting geopolitical tensions, many governments around the world, including those of the United States, the European Union, the United Kingdom and other jurisdictions, have recently announced the imposition of sanctions on certain industries and parties in Russia and the Ukrainian regions of Donetsk and Luhansk, as well as export controls on certain industries and products and the exclusion of certain Russian financial institutions from the SWIFT system. On March 11, 2022, the President of the United States issued an executive order prohibiting exports to Russia of luxury goods (including, inter alia, apparel, footwear and certain accessories with a per unit wholesale price of $1,000 or more). Shortly thereafter, on March 15, 2022, the Council of the European Union imposed new sanctions on Russia prohibiting the export of luxury goods having a value in excess of €300 per item (including clothing, footwear, leather and fashion accessories). These and any additional sanctions or export controls, as well as any counter responses by the governments of Russia or other countries, are adversely affecting, and will continue to adversely affect, directly or indirectly, our supply chain and customers, as well as the global financial markets and financial services industry.
The Russian market represented 1.5%, 2.0% and 1.5% of our revenues in 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively. Our business operations in such market are conducted through franchisees and distribution partners. Pursuant to the aforementioned sanctions, we are required to suspend indefinitely deliveries to our franchisees and distributors in Russia. Accordingly, we have suspended production of products for the Fall/Winter 2022 collection ordered by our Russian franchisees and distributors and it is uncertain whether and when we will be able to resume such production. As we have already purchased raw materials for such production, we may be unable to repurpose all of the excess materials, which may therefore become obsolete. In light of the current crisis there is also no assurance that we will be able to collect from our franchisees and distributors in Russia certain outstanding receivable amounts for completed sales of the Spring/Summer 2022 collection; as of the date of this prospectus, such amounts were not material. Finally, several of the agreements with our wholesale customers in Russia are due to expire during the course of 2022 and 2023. It is uncertain whether, when and at what terms and conditions such agreements will be renewed. Any of the foregoing factors could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
In general, the banking, economic and monetary crisis triggered by the conflict may reduce customers’ interest for, and financial ability to buy, luxury products. An expansion of the conflict to other European countries, the United States or other parts of the world, or the worsening of the world economic situation in terms of inflation, energy costs and purchase power, is likely to translate into a lower propensity to spend on luxury good products and potentially impact our business.
Developments in Greater China and other growth and emerging markets may adversely affect our business.
We operate in a number of growth and emerging markets, both directly and through our distribution partners. In particular, a significant proportion of our sales are in the Greater China Region (which for Zegna’s reporting purposes includes the Chinese mainland, Hong Kong S.A.R., Macau S.A.R. and Taiwan), representing 46%, 43% and 35% of our revenue in 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively, where we have had a direct retail presence since 1991. While demand in these markets has increased in recent years due to sustained economic growth and growth in personal income and wealth, economic growth in these markets may not be sustained in the future. For example, rising geopolitical tensions and potential slowdown in the rate of growth there and in other emerging markets could cause a decline in our sales there, or limit the opportunity for us to increase sales of our products and revenues in those regions in the near term.
Economic and political developments in emerging markets, including economic crises or political instability, have had and could have in the future material adverse effects on our business, results of operations and financial condition. Government actions may also impact the market for luxury goods in these markets, such as tax changes or the active discouragement of luxury purchases. Consumer spending habits in these markets may also change due to other factors that are outside of our control. For instance, starting from the end of August 2021, the President of the People’s Republic of China has repeatedly signaled the government’s intention to regulate excessively high incomes and encourage high-income groups and enterprises to return more to society. While no regulatory action has been taken to date, similar statements by governmental authorities may affect the social acceptability of spending on luxury goods.
Maintaining our position in these growth and emerging markets is a key component of our global strategy. However, initiatives from several global luxury goods manufacturers have increased competitive pressures for luxury goods in several emerging markets. As these markets continue to grow, we anticipate that additional competitors, both international and domestic, will seek to enter these markets and that existing market participants will try to aggressively protect or increase their sales. Increased competition may result in pricing pressure, reduced margins and our inability to increase or maintain our sales levels, which could have a material adverse effect on our results of operations and financial condition. See also “—Risk factors relating to the industry in which Zegna operates—The markets in which we operate are highly competitive.”
Failure to implement our strategy could adversely affect our results of operations.
Our ability to increase our revenues and pursue growth and development objectives depends, in part, upon our success in carrying out our strategic plan. As part of our strategy, we are pursuing, among other things, the successful consolidation of our shift toward luxury leisurewear, the successful design and introduction of new iconic products, the preservation of the exceptional quality
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we are known for and the use of digital tools to strengthen our processes, attract new customers and retain our existing customer base, and the growth of the Thom Browne brand, which depends on the brand’s positive momentum and successful customer proposition. See “Business—Strategy.” Our strategy is premised upon certain assumptions about the global economy and the evolution of demand for luxury goods in various regions of the world in which we operate or seek to operate our competitive position and the ability of our management team to carry out our strategic plan. If we fail to implement our strategic plan, if our assumptions prove to be incorrect or if the geopolitical situation triggers an economic crisis or a conflict situation in the European Union, our ability to increase our revenues and profitability could be affected, which could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
We depend on our manufacturing and logistics facilities, which are subject to disruption.
We operate manufacturing and logistics facilities in Italy, Switzerland and Turkey and logistics facilities in the People’s Republic of China and the United States. These facilities are subject to operational risks, including mechanical and information technology system failure, work stoppage, civil unrest, increases in transportation costs, natural disasters, fire, government imposed shutdowns and disruption to supplies of raw materials. Any interruption of activity in our manufacturing or logistics facilities due to these or other similar events outside of our control could result in disruption to our operations and a reduction in sales, which could have an adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition. See “—We are subject to risks related to the COVID-19 pandemic or similar public health crises that may materially and adversely affect our business.”
We are subject to certain risks related to the sale of our products through our DTC channel and in particular our directly operated stores.
In our distribution model, the DTC channel consists of single branded stores managed directly by us, or DOSs, outlets, concessions within department stores, as well as a directly managed online boutique and other e-commerce platforms through which we sell directly to our customers. As of December 31, 2021, we operated 245 Zegna DOSs and 52 Thom Browne DOSs. The DTC channel generated revenues of €851 million in 2021 (or 66% of our consolidated revenues in such period). The risks related to managing currently existing DOSs mainly relate to possible difficulties in renewing the existing lease agreements, an increase in rental charges and a decline in sales.
Our DOSs are all located in properties that we lease from third parties. There is significant competition among retail operators in our industry to obtain commercial spaces in prestigious locations in major cities, towns and resort destinations worldwide. Accordingly, to renew our lease agreements, we may have to compete with other operators, including those in our same industry, some of which have greater economic and financial resources than ours or otherwise more bargaining power. If we are unable to renew our lease agreements with economic terms consistent or more beneficial than those currently applicable, or if we are forced to accept rental charges which are substantially higher than the existing ones, this could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Our DOSs have a high level of fixed costs, which affect profits from the retail channel. A reduction in sales or a decrease in revenues from the retail channel could, in light of the high level of fixed costs, have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
We analyze the performance of each of our DOSs and market trends in order to assess whether to open new DOSs (or move DOSs to a different location), renew existing leases, or close DOSs that are underperforming. If our analysis is inadequate or based on the wrong assumptions, we could select sub-optimal locations for our stores, or keep or open underperforming stores, which could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition. In the event we decide to close an underperforming DOS, the terms of the lease may not allow us to terminate the lease without significant penalties (such as payment of rent until the expiry of the contractual term).
In addition, although we have adopted internal policies and training initiatives to ensure that the staff in our DOSs operate in a manner consistent with the image and prestige of our brands, there can be no assurance that such staff will abide by such policies or that inappropriate or illicit behavior by certain employees will not occur. If there is any allegation brought against us as a result of negligence or other impermissible conduct by our DOS staff, we may be exposed to legal or other proceedings or increased public scrutiny, which may result in substantial costs, diversion of resources and management’s attention and potential harm to our reputation.
The operations of our retail channel and DOSs are also subject to risks such as information technology system failure, work stoppage, civil unrest, natural disasters, fire and government imposed shutdowns. Any interruption of activity in our retail channel and DOSs due to these or other similar events out of our control could result in disruption to our operations and a reduction in sales, which could have an adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
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In the wholesale channel, we are subject to certain risks arising from points of sale operated by third parties, and we are dependent on our local partners to sell our products in certain markets.
In the wholesale channel, we sell our products to franchisees, specialty stores, department stores and online retailers. In the year ended December 31, 2021, revenues attributable to the wholesale channel for the Zegna Branded Products and Thom Browne amounted to €259 million (or 20% of our consolidated revenues in the same period). The loss of existing commercial relationships with our primary wholesale customers, the failure to develop new commercial relationships on economically favorable terms (or at all) or a significant decrease in wholesale channel revenues could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operation and financial condition. In addition, any failure by retail stores not directly operated by us to manage their stores in a manner consistent with the image and prestige of our brands or in line with any agreed contractual commitments (including in terms of sale prices), or failure by online retailers to comply with consumer protection laws or provide accurate product descriptions, could damage the competitive position and image of our brand, with potential material adverse effects on our business, results of operations and financial condition. See “—Our business depends on the recognition, integrity and reputation of our brands.”
In certain of the geographic markets in which we operate, the distribution of our products is carried out, sometimes exclusively, through franchising agreements with local operators. Although we generally have not experienced significant problems in the past with such wholesale customers, the loss of one or more important commercial relationships with, or the occurrence of material disagreements with, our distribution partners or a failure to renew or develop commercial relationships on economically favorable terms (or at all) with them could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Our operations are also subject to the risk of insolvency of our wholesale customers. Despite our efforts to mitigate such risk, there can be no assurance that we will be able to do so successfully, and our business, results of operations and financial condition could be materially adversely affected.
Fluctuations in the price or quality of, or disruptions in the availability of, raw materials used in our products could cause us to incur increased costs, disrupt our manufacturing processes or prevent or delay us from meeting our customers’ demands.
We require high quality raw materials in order to produce our products. The market price of the raw materials that we require for our production depends on many factors that are largely out of our control and which are difficult to predict. The primary raw materials we use are yarns (in particular, wool yarns), silk, cotton, linen, cashmere, fabrics and leather. The availability of wool and silk depends on unpredictable factors which are outside our control, including weather conditions in the areas where these raw materials originate (mainly Australia and New Zealand for wool, Greater China and Mongolia for cashmere, Turkey and Egypt for cotton, and Greater China for silk), as well as diseases affecting livestock. We also use rare raw materials, such as vicuna yarns, which are only available in a very limited quantity and subject to strict export and processing regulations, which may change. Possible legislative, political and economic developments, potential social instability or the introduction of export restrictions or tariffs in the countries in which our suppliers operate, or the introduction of import restrictions on products from such countries, could have a negative impact on our procurement activities. These and other factors could affect the availability and price of the raw materials required for our production. For instance, the price of cashmere raised significantly through 2021.
If the supply of such raw materials decreases (including due to shortages or to a decrease in the number of producers or suppliers of raw materials), we may face difficulties in obtaining sufficient supplies of high quality raw materials, and the relevant prices may increase. Thus, we could face supply shortages in the medium term and rising costs of purchasing, which we may be unable to pass on to our customers. In addition, our suppliers could cancel or delay the delivery of raw materials to us, or may fail to provide raw materials that meet our high quality standards. This could delay our manufacturing process or cause us to incur increased costs to obtain raw materials of the quality we require. Any of the foregoing factors could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations or financial condition. Suppliers’ actions may also damage our reputation.
We could be adversely affected if we are unable to negotiate, maintain or renew our license agreements with high end third party brands.
We are a party to various agreements with third party brands, as licensee or supplier, and license agreements, as licensor. In particular, we have been acting as licensee for the production and distribution of Tom Ford menswear since 2008 and, upon expiry of the existing license following the completion of the production and distribution activities for the Fall/Winter 2022 collection, we will act as an exclusive supplier for certain Tom Ford products starting from the Spring/Summer 2023 season. We are also supplier of menswear for Dunhill and for Gucci. During the year ended December 31, 2021, we recorded revenues of €75 million from these agreements with third party brands (after eliminations). See “Business—Brands, Collections and Products—Zegna Segment—Third Party Brands Product Line” for further information on our business with third party brands. If we were to fail to comply with our obligations under these arrangements (including with respect to required quality standards and timeliness of deliveries), our third party brand partners may terminate, fail to renew or amend in a manner adverse to us the existing arrangements, which may have material adverse consequences on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
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We are also party to certain license agreements whereby we grant, for a certain period of time, the use of our brand to third parties for the production of products in adjacent luxury sectors (including fragrances, glasses and sunglasses, cufflinks, and beachwear and underwear). For the year ended December 31, 2021, royalties relating to these arrangements were €4.5 million. If any of these licensees were not to perform their obligations towards Zegna (including by failing to ensure the required quality standards, comply with our directions with respect to distribution channels and after sale services), we may be unable, in a commercially reasonable time, to replace such licensee with another producer capable of ensuring equivalent quality and production standards, or procure its services upon the same or substantially the same financial terms. Our inability to maintain a presence in these adjacent luxury sectors or to provide products in these sectors of a quality comparable to that of our other products may reflect negatively on the reputation and integrity of our brands.
We are also pursuing the negotiations with different brands to enter into co-branding projects for the design, production and marketing of certain selected co-branded products, as we did with Maserati, Leica Camera and Fear of God. If we fail to conclude the negotiations in a mutually satisfactory manner for both brands, in particular with respect to the distribution of the co-branded products and the ownership and protection of the intellectual property rights related to these projects, we may be unable to replace the revenues generated in the past from these collaborations.
If any of the foregoing licensing agreements or agreements or co-branding projects with third party brands are terminated for any reason, not renewed upon their expiration or renewed but with less favorable terms and conditions, this could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Our business depends on tourist traffic and demand.
A substantial amount of our sales is generated by customers who purchase products while travelling. Consequently, adverse economic conditions (such as financial crises), global political developments, other social and geopolitical sources of unrest, instability, disorders, riots, civil wars or military conflicts, natural disasters such as fire, floods, blizzards, global pandemics such as the COVID-19 pandemic and earthquakes or other events, as well as travel restrictions imposed by governments, which result in a shift in travel patterns or a decline in travel volumes, have had in the past, and may have in the future, an adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition. See also “—We are subject to risks related to the COVID-19 pandemic or similar public health crises that may materially and adversely affect our business.”, “—Global economic conditions and macro events may adversely affect us.” and “—The conflict in Ukraine and sanctions imposed onto Russia may adversely affect our business.”
Our business success depends on certain key personnel.
The performance of our business depends significantly on the efforts and abilities of some key senior personnel, including without being limited to our Chairperson and Chief Executive Officer, Mr. Ermenegildo Zegna. Such key personnel have substantial experience and expertise in the luxury goods business and have made significant contributions to the success of our business.
If such key personnel were to leave us abruptly, or become otherwise unable or unwilling to continue in their roles, we may not be able to replace them in a timely fashion. The failure to retain or replace such key personnel with other skilled personnel capable of integrating into our operations efficiently could lead to delays in the development of collections, inefficiencies in management of our business, and, accordingly, could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
We depend on highly specialized craftsmanship and skills.
One of the distinguishing features of certain of our products is the highly specialized craftsmanship involved in their manufacturing, which is also a result of the experience that our specialized employees have acquired over the course of the years.
Although we try to preserve these craftsmanship skills and ensure that they are passed on to the next generations, the number of our specialized employees may decrease in the future and their craftsmanship skills may no longer be readily available. If this were to occur, it could affect our ability to ensure the distinctive quality of certain of our products in the future, which in turn could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
We depend on the protection of our intellectual property rights.
We believe that our intellectual property is essential to the success of our products and to our competitive position. We dedicate significant resources to the protection of our intellectual property assets (including trademarks, designs, production processes and technologies, utility patents and other distinctive marks) in the jurisdictions in which we operate. There can be no assurance, however, that we will succeed in protecting our intellectual property rights.
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With respect to patents in particular, patent rights do not prevent our competitors from developing products that are substantially equivalent to or better than our products, while not infringing our intellectual property rights. Moreover, any actions we take to establish and protect our patents, trademarks and other intellectual property rights may not be adequate to prevent counterfeiting, imitation of our products by competitors or other third parties or to prevent these persons from asserting rights in, or ownership of, our brand trademarks and other intellectual property rights. We may therefore be forced to spend significant resources to defend our intellectual property from infringement or from third party claims. In addition, should third parties register intellectual property rights which overlap with ours, or should we attempt to enter new markets where third parties have registered intellectual property rights which are similar to those which we would wish to register, we may be constrained from developing our business in such markets. Moreover, changes in law or adverse judicial or administrative judgments could deprive us of the ownership or use of one or more of our intellectual property rights, which could require us to grant licenses to or to obtain licenses from third parties, to pay damages or to cease production of certain merchandise benefiting from such rights. Each of the above could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Third parties could make claims or bring legal action against us for an alleged infringement of such third parties’ intellectual property rights. As a result, we may be required to discontinue the sale of certain products, pay damages, incur licensing costs, modify our production processes and/or products, or have the scope or validity of our intellectual property rights determined in court in order to be authorized to sell such products. For instance, on June 28, 2021 adidas commenced an action against Thom Browne, Inc. in the Southern District of New York, for, among others, trademark infringement, unfair competition, dilution and various state claims, in connection with the use of Thom Browne’s five color grosgrain ribbon and the four bands on sleeves and pants on its sporting goods, sportswear and athletic wear, allegedly infringing the three stripe marks of adidas. As the discovery phase of the trial progresses, Thom Browne, Inc. filed a motion to dismiss adidas’s claims, which remains pending. Thereafter, Thom Browne, Inc. has also initiated cancellation proceedings against a number of adidas marks registered in the European Union, alleging that the marks lack distinction. The parties have submitted various pleadings in such proceedings, which remain pending. Thom Browne intends to vigorously defend its position in these proceedings. This or any other such events may entail significant losses in addition to legal costs, with possible adverse effects on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
A disruption in our information technology, including as a result of cybercrimes, could compromise confidential and sensitive information.
We depend on our information technology and data processing systems to operate our business, and a significant malfunction or disruption in the operation of our systems, human error, interruption to power supply, or a security breach that compromises the confidential and sensitive information stored in those systems, could disrupt our business and adversely impact our ability to operate. Our ability to keep our business operating effectively depends on the functional and efficient operation by us and our third party service providers of our information, data processing and telecommunications systems, including our product design, manufacturing, distribution, sales and marketing, billing and payment systems. We rely on these systems to enable a number of business processes and help us make a variety of day-to-day business decisions as well as to track operations, billings, payments and inventory. Such systems are susceptible to malfunctions and interruptions due to equipment damage, power outages, connection interruption, and a range of other hardware, software and network problems. Those systems are also susceptible to cybercrime, or threats of intentional disruption, which are increasing in terms of sophistication and frequency, with the consequence that such cyber incidents may remain undetected. For any of these reasons, we may experience system malfunctions or interruptions. For example, in August 2021 we were subject to a ransomware attack that impacted the majority of our IT systems. As we refused to engage in discussions relating to the payment of the ransom, the responsible parties published certain accounting materials extracted from our IT systems. We publicly announced the IT systems breach and gradually restored our IT systems from secure back up servers during the weeks following the breach. Although our systems are diversified, including multiple server locations, third party cloud providers and a range of software applications for different regions and functions, and we periodically assess and implement actions to ameliorate risks to our systems, a significant or large scale malfunction or interruption of our systems could adversely affect our ability to manage and keep our operations running efficiently, and damage our reputation if we are unable to track transactions and deliver products to our customers. A malfunction that results in a wider or sustained disruption to our business could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition. In addition to supporting our operations, we use our systems to collect and store confidential and sensitive data, including information about our business, our customers and our employees. Any unauthorized access to our information systems may compromise the privacy of such data and expose us to claims as well as reputational damage. Ultimately, any significant violation of the integrity of our data security could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition. See “—We are exposed to the risk that personal information of our customers, employees and other parties collected in the course of our operations may be damaged, lost, stolen, divulged or processed for unauthorized purposes.” Our recently acquired businesses may use different information technology and data processing systems than those used at a broader group level, which could make it more complex to prevent or timely address any of the foregoing events.
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We are exposed to the risk that personal information of our customers, employees and other parties collected in the course of our operations may be damaged, lost, stolen, divulged or processed for unauthorized purposes.
In carrying out our business, we collect, store and process personal data of our customers, employees and other parties with whom we deal, including data we gather for product development and marketing purposes. Therefore we are subject to a variety of strict and ever-changing data protection and privacy laws on a global basis, including the EU General Data Protection Regulation.
We are exposed to the risk that personal data we store and use may be damaged or lost, stolen, divulged or processed for unauthorized purposes by the individuals responsible for data management or by unauthorized individuals (including third parties and Zegna employees). The destruction, damage to or loss of personal data, as well as its theft, unauthorized processing or dissemination, could significantly impair our reputation and impact our operations; it could also lead to governmental investigations and the imposition of fines by competent authorities, with possible adverse effects on our business, results of operations and financial condition. See also “—A disruption in our information technology, including as a result of cybercrimes, could compromise confidential and sensitive information.”
We are subject to certain risks related to related party transactions.
We have engaged, and continue to engage, in relationships of a commercial nature with related parties. These relationships consist mainly in the provision of industrial services, financial guarantees, the purchase of raw materials, as well as an interest-bearing loan, and certain contributions to Fondazione Zegna. In addition, in connection with the Demerger, certain of our formerly intercompany lease agreements for the lease of real estate properties have become related party transactions, since we continue to rent those properties from our former subsidiaries demerged prior to the closing of the Business Combination. See “Certain Relationships and Related Party Transactions.”
We believe that the terms and conditions of our transactions with related parties are at arm’s length and on commercial terms that are normal in the respective markets, considering the characteristics of the goods or services involved. However, there can be no assurance that if such transactions had been concluded between or with third parties, such parties would have negotiated or entered into agreements or carried out such transactions under the same or substantially similar terms and conditions. In addition, there is no assurance that we will be able to renew these agreements at the end of their term at the same terms and conditions.
We are exposed to currency related risks.
We operate in numerous markets worldwide and are exposed to market risks stemming from fluctuations in currency exchange rates. In particular, changes in exchange rates between the Euro and the main foreign currencies in which we operate affect our revenues and results of operations. The exposure to currency risk is mainly linked to the differences in geographic distribution of our sourcing and manufacturing activities from those in our commercial activities, as a result of which our cash flows from sales are denominated in currencies different from those related to purchases or production activities. In particular, we incur a large portion of our capital and operating expenses in Euro while we receive the majority of our revenues in currencies other than Euro (mainly in Chinese Renminbi, U.S. Dollars, Japanese Yen, Canadian Dollar and British Pound). Therefore, our results may be adversely affected if these currencies depreciate against the Euro. Such risk is heightened given the extended time period between the moment when the sale prices of a collection are set and the moment when revenues are converted into Euro, which may extend up to 18 months. In addition, foreign exchange fluctuations might also negatively affect the relative purchasing power of our clients, which could also have an adverse effect on our results of operations. See “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations—Operating and Financial Review and Prospects—Trends, Uncertainties and Opportunities.”
Exchange rate fluctuation may also adversely affect our competitive position as compared to other operators in the luxury goods market, who may incur costs in other currencies with more favorable exchange rates relative to the currencies of our principal markets.
In the Zegna segment, we have historically sought to manage risks associated with fluctuations in currency through financial hedging instruments, mainly forward contracts for the sale of foreign currencies; we are gradually implementing similar policies also in the Thom Browne segment. However, there can be no assurance that we will be able to hedge currency related risks successfully, and our business, results of operations and financial condition could nevertheless be adversely affected by fluctuations in market rates, particularly if such fluctuations are extended over time.
In addition, because the Euro is the functional currency used in our consolidated financial statements, fluctuations in exchange rates used to translate figures in our subsidiaries’ financial statements that were originally expressed in a foreign currency could have a significant impact on results, net financial indebtedness, and consolidated net shareholders’ equity as expressed in Euro in our consolidated financial statements.
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We are exposed to risks relating to fluctuations in interest rates and other market risks.
We have entered into Euro-denominated financing agreements providing for a floating interest rate. As of December 31, 2021, floating rate loans represented approximately 66% of our total borrowings, for a financed amount of approximately €418 million. Although we have entered into derivative financial instruments to hedge our exposure to interest rate risk, an increase in interest rates during the term of such financing agreements, which would result in higher interest payments thereunder, could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
As of December 31, 2021, we had approximately €334 million of other current financial assets invested in listed and unlisted financial instruments. We do not enter into investments for trading or speculative purposes. The primary objective of our investment activities is to preserve principal while maximizing the income that we receive from our investments without significantly increasing risk of loss. In connection with our investment activities, we may be exposed to market risk, i.e. the risk of loss related to changes in market prices, volatility, counterparty and liquidity of financial instruments, which could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Risk factors relating to the industry in which Zegna operates
The markets in which we operate are highly competitive.
The markets for our products are characterized by high levels of competition and the presence of a number of established operators and new entrants, some of which have significant financial resources or well- known and fashionable brands. To succeed, we must interpret and anticipate the tastes, preferences and lifestyles of our customers and anticipate changes in those tastes, preferences and lifestyles, as well as identify fashion and luxury market trends, while producing high quality, desirable luxury products. Our competitors may be more successful in interpreting market trends or may be able to produce their products at lower costs. Our failure to compete effectively in our chosen markets, including through a failure to identify and respond to new and changing trends and consumer preferences, could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Global economic conditions and macro events may adversely affect us.
Our sales volumes and revenues may be affected by overall general economic conditions within the different countries in which we operate. Deteriorating general economic conditions may affect disposable incomes and reduce consumer wealth impacting client demand, particularly for luxury goods, which may negatively impact our profitability and put downward pressure on our prices and volumes. Furthermore, during recessionary periods, social acceptability of luxury purchases may decrease and higher taxes may be more likely to be imposed on certain luxury goods including our products, which may affect our sales.
We sell our products throughout the world. In particular, we conduct our business in EMEA, North and Latin America and APAC. Our presence in various international markets exposes us to the risks connected, among other things, with the geopolitical and macroeconomic conditions of the countries in which we operate. Sales could be affected by various events, such as, for example, market instability, terrorism, war, natural disasters or socio-political upheavals. In particular, the majority of our current sales are in Greater China and the United States. Therefore, slowing economic conditions in those countries may adversely affect our revenues in that region. See also “—Developments in Greater China and other growth and emerging markets may adversely affect our business.” and “—The conflict in Ukraine and sanctions imposed onto Russia may adversely affect our business.”
If these events, which are difficult to predict, occur, this could have an adverse effect on the demand for luxury goods in a specific country or could cause a contraction in tourist flow, and may have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Significant inflation could adversely affect our results of operations and financial condition.
Economies around the world have generally seen significant inflationary pressures in 2021 and continuing in 2022. For instance, in early 2022 we assisted to a significant increase in the price of energy. If inflation continues to increase or maintain above levels seen in recent years, we could face further increases in costs for raw materials, energy costs, labor costs or other production costs, which could adversely affect our business and results of operations if we are not able to pass on the increased costs to our customers, or successfully implement other mitigating actions. The foregoing could reduce our profit margins, with a material adverse effect on our results of operations and financial condition. Additionally, many central banks have increased, or are considering to increase, interest rates as a result of the recent inflation, which in turn may increase our borrowing costs.
In addition, significant increases in the costs of other products required by consumers, as well as a raise in interest rates may affect consumer spending power and result in overall reduced spending.
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We are subject to legal and regulatory risk.
We are required to comply with the laws and regulations applying to our products and operations in the various jurisdictions in which we operate, particularly in relation to the protection of intellectual property rights, competition, product safety, packaging and labeling, import and processing of certain raw materials and finished goods, data protection, limits on cash payments, worker health and safety and the environment. New legislation (or amendments to existing legislation) may require us to adopt stricter standards, which could lead to increased costs for adapting product characteristics or limit our operations, and this may have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition. We are subject to the U.S. Foreign Corrupt Practices Act of 1977, as amended, and other anti-bribery, anti-corruption and anti-money laundering laws in the countries in which we conduct activities. We and our distribution partners may have direct or indirect interactions with officials and employees of government agencies or state owned or affiliated entities and other third parties where we may be held liable for corrupt or other illegal activities, even if we do not explicitly authorize them. We are also subject to sanctions legislation, which may lead to commercial and economic sanctions, prohibitions and other restrictive measures imposed by the different authorities and governments involved, including the European Union, the United States, the United Nations and other international organizations. From time to time, we may conduct some limited activities in countries subject to sanctions or other restrictive measures. While we believe that our activities are in compliance with the applicable laws and sanctions legislation, including embargoes, we cannot exclude the possibility that we or our distribution partners may violate such laws. Any violation of the foregoing laws could lead to regulatory and/or judicial proceedings and sanctions (including civil penalties, denial of export privileges, injunctions, asset seizures and revocations or restrictions of licenses, as well as criminal fines and imprisonment), which may have a material adverse effect on our reputation, business, results of operations and financial condition.
We are subject to risks associated with climate change and other environmental impacts and increased focus by stakeholders on environment, social and governance matters.
Our business is subject to risks associated with climate change, including in particular disruption to our supply chain, which may impact the production and distribution of our products and availability and price of raw materials. Increased frequency and intensity of weather events (including storms and floods) due to climate change could also lead to more frequent store closures and/or lost sales as customers prioritize basic needs.
There is also increased focus from our stakeholders, including consumers, employees and investors, on corporate responsibility (including environment, social and governance (“ESG”)) matters. We plan to announce in the near future our sustainability strategy and ESG goals. There can be no assurance that our stakeholders will agree with our strategy or will be satisfied with our disclosure, or that we will be successful in achieving our goals. If our ESG practices do not meet our stakeholders’ expectations and standards, or if we fail (or are perceived to fail) to implement our strategy or achieve our goals, our reputation could be damaged, causing our investors or consumers to lose confidence in us and our brands, negatively impacting our employee retention and our business, or having a negative effect on our sales and results of operations. In addition, implementing our ESG strategy and pursuing our ESG goals might involve higher than expected costs and investments which might adversely affect our results of operations.
Risk factors relating to Tax Matters
Changes in tax, tariff or fiscal policies could adversely affect demand for our products.
Imposition of any additional taxes and levies on our products could adversely affect the demand for our products and our results of operations. Changes in corporate and other taxation policies as well as changes in export and other incentives given by various governments, or import or tariff policies, could also adversely affect our results of operations. Considerable uncertainty surrounds the introduction and scope of tariffs by countries around the world, as well as the potential for trade actions, and the imposition of tariffs and trade restrictions as a result of international trade disputes or changes in trade policies may adversely affect our sales and profitability. The occurrence of any the above may have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Changes to taxation or the interpretation or application of tax laws could have an adverse impact on our results of operations and financial condition.
Our business is subject to various taxes in different jurisdictions (mainly Italy), which include, among others, the Italian corporate income tax (“IRES”), regional trade tax (“IRAP”), value added tax (“VAT”), excise duty, registration tax and other indirect taxes. We are exposed to the risk that our overall tax burden may increase in the future.
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Changes in tax laws or regulations, or in the position of the relevant Italian and non-Italian authorities regarding the application, administration or interpretation of these laws or regulations, particularly if applied retrospectively, could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition. These changes include the introduction of a global minimum tax at a rate of 15% under the Two-Pillar Solution to Address the Tax Challenges of the Digitalisation of the Economy, agreed upon by over 130 jurisdictions under the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development/G20 Inclusive Framework on Base Erosion and Profit Shifting and to be implemented in 2023.
In addition, tax laws are complex and subject to subjective valuations and interpretive decisions, and we periodically may be subject to tax audits aimed at assessing our compliance with direct and indirect taxes. The tax authorities may not agree with our interpretations of, or the positions we have taken or intend to take on, tax laws applicable to our ordinary activities and extraordinary transactions. In case of challenges by the tax authorities to our interpretations, we could face long tax proceedings that could result in the payment of additional tax and penalties, with potential material adverse effects on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Passive Foreign Investment Company tax considerations for US holders
Shares of our stock would be stock of a “passive foreign investment company,” or a PFIC, for U.S. federal income tax purposes with respect to a U.S. holder if for any taxable year in which such U.S. holder held shares of our stock, after the application of applicable “look-through rules” (i) 75 percent or more of our gross income for the taxable year consists of “passive income” (including dividends, interest, gains from the sale or exchange of investment property and rents and royalties other than rents and royalties which are received from unrelated parties in connection with the active conduct of a trade or business, as defined in applicable Treasury Regulations), or (ii) at least 50 percent of our assets for the taxable year (averaged over the year and determined based upon value) produce or are held for the production of “passive income.” U.S. persons who own shares of a PFIC are subject to a disadvantageous U.S. federal income tax regime with respect to the income derived by the PFIC, the dividends they receive from the PFIC, and the gain, if any, they derive from the sale or other disposition of their shares in the PFIC.
While we believe that shares of our stock are not stock of a PFIC for U.S. federal income tax purposes, this conclusion is based on a factual determination made annually and thus is subject to change. Moreover, our common shares may become stock of a PFIC in future taxable years if there were to be changes in our assets, income or operations. For further discussion, see “Taxation —Material United States Federal Income Tax Considerations—Passive Foreign Investment Company Rules.”
We intend to be treated exclusively as a resident of the Republic of Italy for tax purposes, but Dutch or other tax authorities may seek to treat us as a tax resident of another jurisdiction as a result of which we could be subject to increased and/or different taxes.
As a result of the Conversion into a Dutch limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap) we are deemed tax resident in the Netherlands for purposes of the Dutch Dividend Withholding Tax Act 1965 (Wet op de dividendbelasting 1965) and the Dutch Corporate Income Tax Act 1969 (Wet op de vennootschapsbelasting 1969). However, we intend to maintain our management and organizational structure in such a manner that (i) our place of effective management would be in Italy and we should be regarded as a tax resident of Italy for Italian domestic law purposes; (ii) we should be considered to be exclusively tax resident in Italy for purposes of the applicable tax treaties, including the Convention between the Kingdom of the Netherlands and the Republic of Italy for the avoidance of double taxation and the prevention of fiscal evasion with respect to taxes on income and on capital (the “Italy-Netherlands Tax Treaty”); and (iii) we should not be regarded as a tax resident of any jurisdiction other than Italy or the Netherlands either for purposes of the domestic tax laws of such jurisdiction or for the purposes of any applicable tax treaty. However, the determination of our tax residency depends primarily upon our place of effective management, which is largely a question of fact, based on all relevant circumstances. Therefore, no assurance can be given regarding the final determination of our tax residency by tax authorities. In addition, changes to applicable laws and income tax treaties, including a change to the provisional reservation made by Italy under the Multilateral Convention to Implement Tax Treaty Related Measures to Prevent Base Erosion and Profit Shifting (the “MLI”) made at the time of signing the MLI with respect to Article 4 (Dual Resident Entities) of the MLI, or interpretations thereof and changes to applicable facts and circumstances (e.g., a change of board members or the place where board meetings take place), may have a bearing on the determination of our tax residency and the consequent tax treatment.
If the competent tax authorities of a jurisdiction other than Italy, including the Netherlands, take the position that we should be treated as (exclusively) tax resident of that jurisdiction for purposes of an applicable tax treaty, we would be subject to corporation tax and all distributions made by us to our shareholders would be subject to any applicable dividend withholding tax in such other jurisdiction(s) as well as in Italy. To resolve any dual tax residency issue, we may have access to a mutual agreement procedure and/or dispute resolution mechanisms under an applicable tax treaty and the dispute resolution mechanism under the EU Arbitration Directive (if it is an EU jurisdiction), or we could submit our case for judicial review by the relevant courts. These procedures would require substantial time, costs and efforts, and it is not certain that double taxation issues can be resolved in all circumstances.
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If we pay dividends, we may need to withhold tax on such dividends payable to our shareholders in both Italy and the Netherlands.
As a result of the Conversion into a Dutch limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap), but with our place of effective management in Italy (and not in the Netherlands), our dividends are generally subject to Italian dividend withholding tax. However, Dutch dividend withholding tax, in addition to Italian withholding tax, will be required to be withheld from dividends if and when paid to Dutch resident shareholders (and non-Dutch resident shareholders that have a permanent establishment in the Netherlands to which their shareholding is attributable). We will be required to identify our shareholders in order to assess whether there are Dutch residents (or non-Dutch residents with a permanent establishment to which the shares are attributable) in respect of which Dutch dividend withholding tax has to be withheld. Such identification may not always be possible in practice. If the identity of our shareholders cannot be assessed upon a payment of dividend, withholding of both Italian and Dutch dividend withholding tax from such dividend may occur. Our non-Dutch resident shareholders may apply for a refund of Dutch dividend withholding tax, if withheld on the distribution. For further discussion, see “Taxation—Material Dutch Tax Considerations—Zegna Shares and Warrants —Withholding Tax.”
The consequences of the loyalty voting program are uncertain.
No statutory, judicial or administrative authority directly discusses how the receipt, ownership or disposition of Zegna Special Voting Shares under the Zegna loyalty voting program implemented in connection with the Business Combination should be treated for Italian or U.S. tax purposes and, as a result, the tax consequences in those jurisdictions are uncertain.
The fair market value of the Zegna Special Voting Shares, which may be relevant for tax purposes, is a factual determination and is not governed by any guidance that directly addresses such a situation. Because, among other things, the Zegna Special Voting Shares will not be transferable (other than, in very limited circumstances, together with the associated Ordinary Shares) and a shareholder will receive amounts in respect of the Zegna Special Voting Shares only if Zegna is liquidated, we expect to take the position that the fair market value of each Zegna Special Voting Share is minimal. However, the relevant tax authorities could assert that the value of the Zegna Special Voting Shares as determined by Zegna is incorrect.
The tax treatment of the loyalty voting program implemented in connection with Business Combination is unclear and shareholders are urged to consult their tax advisors in respect of the consequences of acquiring, owning and disposing of Zegna Special Voting Shares. See “Taxation—Material United States Federal Income Tax Considerations—Loyalty Voting Program and Zegna Special Voting Shares” for further discussion.
We benefit or seek to benefit from certain special tax regimes, which may not be available in the future.
We currently calculate taxes due in Italy based, among other things, on certain tax incentives recognized by Italian tax regulations for research and development expenses. In the past we have received tax benefit for research and development expenses in 2017.
In addition, we benefit from the measures introduced in Italy by art. 110 of Law Decree no. 104/2020, converted into Law no. 126/2020, which re-opened the voluntary step-up of tangible assets, with the application of a 3% substitutive tax rate.
Furthermore, Italian Law no. 190/2014, as subsequently amended and supplemented, introduced an optional Patent Box regime in the Italian tax system. The Patent Box regime is a tax exemption related to, among others, the use of intellectual property assets. Business income derived from the use of each qualified intangible asset is partially exempted from taxation for both IRES and IRAP purposes. We have applied the Patent Box tax regime for the period from 2015 to 2019 (renewal is pending), in line with applicable tax regulations in Italy. The amount of the related tax benefits that we have received from the tax regime remains subject to limited uncertainty.
The old Patent Box regime has been recently revised. The current one does not provide anymore for a partial exemption of the business income derived from the use of qualified intangible assets. Differently, under the new regime, the amount of qualifying expenses, relevant for both IRES and IRAP purposes, is increased by 110%. Specific rules regulate the transion from the old Patent box to the new one.
Special tax regimes and tax incentives may allow us to mitigate our tax burden in Italy. Significant changes in regulations or interpretation thereof might adversely affect the availability of such exemptions and result in higher tax charges, which may result in a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
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We are subject to risks related to the complexity and uncertainty in interpretation of transfer pricing rules.
We operate in over 80 countries worldwide with integrated industrial, commercial, stylist and communication functions, trademarks used in different jurisdictions and are subject to taxation in Italy and in other foreign countries in which our subsidiaries are located. Within Zegna, transactions between related parties located in different countries are carried out in the ordinary course of business and are mainly related to the purchase and sale of goods and the provision of services.
These transactions are subject to transfer pricing rules defined globally by the Organization for Economic and Co-operation and Development (“OECD”) and local tax laws. In this respect, our intercompany prices are set up consistently with the guidance provided by the OECD Transfer Pricing Guidelines and we and our subsidiaries prepare specific transfer pricing documentation with respect to such transactions.
Although we believe that our transfer pricing is correct, due to the complexity of these rules and the uncertainties in their interpretation, the tax authorities might challenge the prices of certain of our intercompany transactions and propose transfer pricing adjustments. Consequently, such adjustments may increase the related taxes and impose penalties and late payment interests, which may result in a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
Risk factors relating to holding our Ordinary Shares and Warrants
An active and liquid trading market for our Ordinary Shares may not develop, the market price may be volatile and investors may suffer a loss.
Prior to the Business Combination, there has been no public market for the shares of Zegna. Our shares were listed on the NYSE on December 20, 2021. However, there can be no assurance that an active and liquid trading market for our Ordinary Shares will be maintained. Active, liquid trading markets generally result in lower price volatility and more efficient execution of buy and sell orders for investors. The actual market price of the Ordinary Shares may fluctuate because of several factors, including those described in this “Risk Factors,” may not reflect our actual operating performance and may be lower than the price investors paid to purchase the Ordinary Shares.
Substantial sales of the Ordinary Shares and/or Warrants could cause the price of such securities to decline.
Following the Business Combination, the Zegna Initial Shareholders and the IIAC Initial Shareholders are subject to restrictions on share sales for certain periods of time, but will be free to sell once those restrictions expire. See “Description of Securities—Registration Rights and Lock-Up Arrangements”. In addition, certain Insider PIPE Subscribers are subject to restrictions in connection with the sale of the Ordinary Shares they purchased in the PIPE Financing. The other shareholders, which own the minority of Ordinary Shares following the Business Combination, are not subject to any resale restrictions. A sale of a significant number of Ordinary Shares or Warrants, or the anticipation by the market of a possible sale, particularly sales of Ordinary Shares on the part of any of the shareholders subject to lock-up obligations, following expiration of the lock-up, could have the effect of depressing the market price for such securities.
The exercise of our Warrants would increase the number of shares eligible for future resale in the public market and result in dilution to our stockholders.
As of December 31, 2021, we had 13,416,667 Public Warrants and 6,700,000 Private Placement Warrants outstanding. To the extent our Warrants are exercised, additional Ordinary Shares will be issued, which will result in dilution to the holders of Ordinary Shares and potentially increase the number of shares eligible for resale in the public market. Sales of substantial numbers of Ordinary Shares in the public market could adversely affect the market price of our Ordinary Shares and Warrants. See “—Substantial sales of the Ordinary Shares and/or Warrants could cause the price of such securities to decline”.
The price of the Ordinary Shares and Warrants may be volatile.
The price of Ordinary Shares and Warrants may fluctuate due to a variety of factors, including:
• | changes in the industries in which we and our customers operate; |
• | variations in our operating performance and the performance of our competitors in general; |
• | material and adverse impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the markets and the broader global economy; |
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• | actual or anticipated fluctuations in our annual or interim operating results; |
• | publication of research reports by securities analysts about us or our competitors or our industry; |
• | the public’s reaction to our press releases, other public announcements and filings with the SEC; |
• | our failure or the failure of our competitors to meet analysts’ projections or guidance that we or our competitors may give to the market; |
• | additions and departures of key personnel; |
• | changes in laws and regulations affecting our business; |
• | commencement of, or involvement in, litigation involving us; |
• | changes in our capital structure, such as future issuances of securities or the incurrence of additional debt; |
• | the volume of Ordinary Shares available for public sale; |
• | general economic and political conditions such as recessions, interest rates, fuel prices, foreign currency fluctuations, international tariffs, social, political and economic risks and acts of war or terrorism; and |
• | the other factors described in this “Risk Factors”. |
These market and industry factors may materially reduce the market price of Ordinary Shares and Warrants regardless of our operating performance.
Reports published by analysts, including projections in those reports that differ from our actual results, could adversely affect the price and trading volume of our shares.
Securities research analysts may establish and publish their own periodic projections for Zegna. These projections may vary widely and may not accurately predict the results we actually achieve. Our share price may decline if our actual results do not match the projections of these securities research analysts. Similarly, if one or more of the analysts who write reports on us downgrades our stock or publishes inaccurate or unfavorable research about our business, our share price could decline. If one or more of these analysts ceases coverage of us or fails to publish reports on us regularly, our share price or trading volume could decline.
The loyalty voting program may affect the liquidity of the Ordinary Shares and reduce share price.
The implementation of Zegna’s loyalty voting program could reduce the trading liquidity and adversely affect the trading prices of the Ordinary Shares. The loyalty voting program is intended to reward shareholders for maintaining long-term share ownership by granting persons holding Ordinary Shares continuously for at least two years the option to elect to receive Zegna Special Voting Shares. Zegna Special Voting Shares cannot be transferred (except in very limited circumstances) and, if Ordinary Shares participating in the loyalty voting program are transferred they must be deregistered from the Loyalty Register and any corresponding Zegna Special Voting Shares transferred to us for no consideration (om niet). This loyalty voting program is designed to encourage a stable shareholder base and, conversely, it may deter trading by shareholders that may be interested in participating in the loyalty voting program. Therefore, the loyalty voting program may reduce liquidity in Ordinary Shares and adversely affect their trading price.
Our majority shareholders exercise control over Zegna, which may limit other shareholders’ ability to influence corporate matters and could delay or prevent a change in corporate control. The interests of our majority shareholders may differ from those of our other shareholders.
As of March 30, 2022, Monterubello held approximately 61.8% of the Ordinary Shares issued and outstanding. Please see “Beneficial Ownership.” As a result, Monterubello is able to influence our management and affairs and control the outcome of matters submitted to our shareholder meetings for approval, including the election of directors and any sale, merger, consolidation, or sale of all or substantially all of our assets. In addition, the loyalty voting program established by the Zegna Articles of Association may make it more difficult for a third party to acquire, or attempt to acquire, control of Zegna, even if a change of control were considered favorably by shareholders holding a majority of Ordinary Shares. As a result of Monturubello’s ownership and the loyalty voting program, a relatively large proportion of the voting power in Zegna could be concentrated in a relatively small number of shareholders
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who would have significant influence over Zegna. Monterubello and other shareholders participating in the loyalty voting program may have the power effectively to prevent or delay change of control or other transactions that may otherwise benefit Zegna’s shareholders, which may also prevent or discourage shareholder initiatives aimed at changing Zegna’s management or strategy or otherwise exerting influence over Zegna. In addition, Monterubello will exercise its voting power in its own interest, which may not be in line or even be in conflict with the interests of the remaining shareholders.
We incurred and will incur significant costs in connection with the Business Combination.
We have incurred and expect to incur significant costs in connection with consummation of the Business Combination and the transition to becoming a public company. These costs may have an adverse impact on our results of operations. We cannot provide assurance that the benefits of the Business Combination will offset the incremental transaction costs in the near term, if at all.
Zegna is a Dutch public company with limited liability, and its shareholders may have rights different to those of shareholders of companies organized in the United States.
The rights of the shareholders of Zegna may be different from the rights of shareholders of companies governed by the laws of U.S. jurisdictions. Zegna is a Dutch public company with limited liability (naamloze vennootschap). Its corporate affairs are governed by the Zegna Articles of Association, the Zegna Board Regulations and Dutch law. The rights of Zegna’s shareholders and the responsibilities of members of the Zegna Board may be different from the rights of shareholders and the responsibilities of members of board of directors of companies governed by the laws of other jurisdictions including the United States. The responsibilities of the Zegna Executive Directors and Zegna Non-Executive Directors may be different from the rights and obligations of board members in companies governed by the laws of U.S. jurisdictions. In the performance of its duties, the Zegna Board is required by Dutch law to consider Zegna’s interests and the interests of its shareholders, employees and other stakeholders, in all cases with due observation of the principles of reasonableness and fairness. It is possible that some of these parties have interests that are different from, or in addition to, the interests of shareholders. There can be no assurance that Dutch law will not change in the future or that it will serve to protect investors in a similar fashion afforded under corporate law principles in the U.S., which could adversely affect the rights of investors.
Zegna is a “foreign private issuer” under the rules and regulations of the SEC and, thus, is exempt from a number of rules under the Exchange Act and permitted to file less information with the SEC than a company incorporated in the United States.
As a “foreign private issuer” Zegna is exempt from rules under the Exchange Act, that impose certain disclosure and procedural requirements for proxy solicitations under Section 14 of the Exchange Act. In addition, our officers, directors and principal shareholders are exempt from the reporting and “short-swing” profit recovery provisions of Section 16 of the Exchange Act and the rules under the Exchange Act with respect to their purchases and sales of the Ordinary Shares. Moreover, Zegna is not required to file periodic reports and financial statements with the SEC as frequently or as promptly as U.S. companies whose securities are registered under the Exchange Act, nor required to comply with Regulation FD, which restricts the selective disclosure of material information. Accordingly, there may be less publicly available information concerning Zegna than there is for U.S. public companies.
If we fail to maintain an effective system of disclosure controls and internal control over financial reporting, our ability to produce timely and accurate financial statements or comply with applicable regulations could be impaired.
As a public company, we are subject to the reporting requirements of the Exchange Act, the Sarbanes-Oxley Act, and the rules and regulations of the applicable listing standards of the NYSE. We expect that the requirements of these rules and regulations will continue to increase our legal, accounting and financial compliance costs compared to the pre-Business Combination period, make some activities more difficult, time-consuming and costly and place significant strain on our personnel, systems and resources.
The Sarbanes-Oxley Act requires, among other things, that we maintain effective disclosure controls and procedures and internal control over financial reporting. In particular, Section 404 of the Sarbanes-Oxley Act (“Section 404”) will require us to perform system and process evaluation and testing of our internal control over financial reporting to allow management to report on, and our independent registered public accounting firm to attest to, the effectiveness of our internal control over financial reporting. We will be required to provide an annual management report on the effectiveness of our internal control over financial reporting commencing with our second annual report on Form 20-F, which we expect to file in 2023 with respect to the fiscal year ending December 31, 2022. At such time, our independent registered public accounting firm may issue a report that is adverse in the event it is not satisfied with the level at which our internal control over financial reporting is documented, designed or operating. Any failure to maintain effective disclosure controls and internal control over financial reporting could have a material and adverse effect on our business, results of operations and financial condition.
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We have identified material weaknesses in our internal control over financial reporting. If we are unable to remediate these material weaknesses, or if we are unable to develop and maintain an effective system of internal controls, we may not be able to produce timely and accurate financial statements or comply with applicable laws and regulations, which may adversely affect our business and the price of our securities.
Before we became a public company in December 2021, in connection with the audits of our consolidated financial statements as of December 31, 2020 and 2019 and for the years ended December 31, 2020, 2019 and 2018, our management and our independent registered public accounting firm identified material weaknesses in our internal control over financial reporting. A material weakness is a deficiency, or combination of deficiencies, in internal control over financial reporting, such that there is a reasonable possibility that a material misstatement of the annual or interim financial statements will not be prevented or detected on a timely basis.
The material weaknesses identified primarily related to: (i) the absence of sufficient resources in the accounting department with appropriate IFRS competencies and SEC reporting experience to provide accurate information in a timely manner; (ii) the lack of an effective risk assessment process to identify and communicate appropriate objectives and fraud, and to identify and assess changes in the business that could affect our system of internal controls; (iii) the inability to generate and provide quality information and communication necessary to support the functioning of internal control (iv) the lack of monitoring controls to ascertain whether the components of internal control are present and functioning as intended; (v) the insufficient design and implementation of effective control activities, including proper segregation of duties and general information technology controls, across substantially all financial statement account balances and disclosures and (vi) the lack of adequately designed and documented management review controls to properly detect and prevent certain accounting errors and omitted disclosures in the consolidated financial statements.
As a consequence of these material weaknesses, accounting errors were identified in our annual consolidated financial statements as of December 31, 2020 and 2019 and for each of the three years in the period ended December 31, 2020, which errors primarily related to the application of accounting judgements on complex transactions concerning business combinations, impairment, fair value estimate, classification of financial instruments and classification of tax receivables and liabilities. The principal accounts concerned are goodwill, intangible assets, right of use, property, plant and equipment, inventories, other current financial assets, tax receivables and tax liabilities, cash and cash equivalents, derivative financial instruments, deferred taxes, depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets and financial income and expenses, which have been restated as included in this prospectus. These material weaknesses could result in a misstatement of our accounts or disclosures, which may result in a material misstatement in our annual or interim consolidated financial statements that would not be prevented or detected.
We are not currently required to make a formal assessment of the effectiveness of our internal control over financial reporting in accordance with the requirements of Section 404 of the Sarbanes-Oxley Act. Beginning with our second annual report on Form 20-F filed with the SEC (which is expected to be the annual report for the year ending December 31, 2022) we will be required to provide an annual management report on the effectiveness of our internal control over financial reporting and our independent registered public accounting firm will be required to attest to the effectiveness of our internal controls over financial reporting.
Subsequent to the evaluation made in connection with filing our Registration Statement on Form F-4 we have begun implementing a remediation plan designed to address these material weaknesses and other existing deficiencies, and ensure the intended execution of our Sarbanes-Oxley Act compliance program. As part of this remediation plan, and together with external advisor with expertise in these matters as appropriate, we are focusing on the following areas: (i) performing our risk assessment and scoping to identify relevant controls that will be designed, implemented, and tested by management, (ii) establishing compliant risk and control matrices for applicable processes across our markets, (iii) designing and/or reassessing existing entity-level controls and general information technology controls and, as necessary, implementing enhancements to such controls to improve the effectiveness of the internal control system and our internal control over financial reporting, (iv) implementing appropriate monitoring activities and procedures over internal control and financial reporting, (v) reinforcing of the composition of Finance, Internal Audit and other departments and (vi) providing relevant training over internal controls and financial reporting processes. As our remediation activities remain ongoing, we cannot conclude that these measures fully address the material weaknesses identified in our internal control over financial reporting for the preparation of our consolidated financial statements as of and for the year ended December 31, 2021.
We cannot assure that the measures that we are implementing will be sufficient to remediate the control deficiencies that led to these material weaknesses in our internal control over financial reporting or that they will prevent or avoid potential future material weaknesses. In addition, neither our management nor an independent registered public accounting firm has performed an evaluation of our internal control over financial reporting in accordance with the provisions of the Sarbanes-Oxley Act. Had we or our independent registered public accounting firm performed an evaluation of our internal control over financial reporting in accordance with the provisions of the Sarbanes-Oxley Act, additional material weaknesses may have been identified.
If we are unable to remediate the material weaknesses we have identified, or if we identify additional material weaknesses in the future or otherwise fail to develop and maintain an effective system of internal controls, we may not be able to produce timely and accurate financial statements, which may subject us to adverse regulatory consequences and adversely affect investor confidence in us and, as a result, the price of our securities and our ability to access the capital markets in the future.
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The Warrants are accounted for as liabilities and the changes in value of the Warrants could have a material effect on our financial results.
In accordance with IAS 32 – Financial Instruments: Presentation the 13,416,667 Public Warrants and 6,700,000 Private Placement Warrants are classified as derivative financial liabilities and are measured at fair value, with changes in fair value each period reported in profit and loss.
IAS 32 provides for the remeasurement of the fair value of such liabilities at each balance sheet date, with a resulting non-cash gain or loss related to the change in the fair value being recognized in earnings in the statement of profit and loss. As a result of the recurring fair value measurement, our financial statements and results of operations may fluctuate periodically, based on factors which are outside of our control. Due to the recurring fair value measurement, we expect that we will recognize non-cash gains or losses on the Warrants each reporting period and that the amount of such gains or losses could be material. Management measured the Public Warrants at fair value by using the Euro equivalent of the closing price of such warrants on the NYSE. Management estimated the fair value of the Private Placement Warrants by Monte Carlo simulation model, using as key inputs the Company’s share price, risk-free rate, implied Public Warrant volatility, the Warrants’ maturity, and the Public Warrants’ market price.
Zegna’s ability to pay dividends may be limited and the level of future dividends is subject to change.
Payment of dividends on Zegna’s shares in the future will be subject to business conditions, financial conditions, earnings, cash balances, commitments, strategic plans and other factors that the Zegna Board may deem relevant at the time it recommends approval of the dividend. Any dividend policy, once adopted, will be subject to change based on changes in statutory requirements, market trends, strategic developments, capital requirements and a number of other factors. In addition, under the Zegna Articles of Association and Dutch law, dividends may be declared on the Ordinary Shares only if the amount of equity exceeds the paid up and called up capital plus the reserves that have to be maintained pursuant to Dutch law or the Zegna Articles of Association. Further, even if Zegna is permitted under the Zegna Articles of Association and Dutch law to pay cash dividends on its shares, it may not have sufficient cash to pay dividends in cash on its shares. Zegna is a holding company and its operations are carried out through its subsidiaries. As a result, Zegna’s ability to pay dividends will primarily depend on the ability of its subsidiaries to generate earnings and to provide Zegna with the necessary financial resources.
The Warrant Agreement and the New Warrant Agreement designate the courts of the State of New York or the United States District Court for the Southern District of New York as the sole and exclusive forum for certain types of actions and proceedings that may be initiated by holders of our Warrants, which could limit the ability of warrant holders to obtain a favorable judicial forum for disputes with us.
Our Warrant Agreement and New Warrant Agreement provide that, subject to applicable law, (i) any action, proceeding or claim against us arising out of or relating in any way to such agreements, including under the Securities Act, will be brought and enforced in the courts of the State of New York or the United States District Court for the Southern District of New York, and (ii) we irrevocably submit to such jurisdiction, which jurisdiction shall be the exclusive forum for any such action, proceeding or claim. We will waive any objection to such exclusive jurisdiction and that such courts represent an inconvenient forum.
Notwithstanding the foregoing, these provisions do not apply to suits brought to enforce any liability or duty created by the Exchange Act or any other claim for which the federal district courts of the United States of America are the sole and exclusive forum. Any person or entity purchasing or otherwise acquiring any interest in any of our warrants shall be deemed to have notice of and to have consented to the forum provisions in our Warrant Agreement and New Warrant Agreement. If any action, the subject matter of which is within the scope the forum provisions of the Warrant Agreement or the New Warrant Agreement, is filed in a court other than a court of the State of New York or the United States District Court for the Southern District of New York (a “foreign action”) in the name of any holder of our warrants, such holder shall be deemed to have consented to: (x) the personal jurisdiction of the state and federal courts located in the State of New York in connection with any action brought in any such court to enforce the forum provisions (an “enforcement action”), and (y) having service of process made upon such warrant holder in any such enforcement action by service upon such warrant holder’s counsel in the foreign action as agent for such warrant holder.
This choice-of-forum provision may limit a warrant holder’s ability to bring a claim in a judicial forum that it finds favorable for disputes with us, which may discourage such lawsuits. Alternatively, if a court were to find this provision of our Warrant Agreement or New Warrant Agreement inapplicable or unenforceable with respect to one or more of the specified types of actions or proceedings, we may incur additional costs associated with resolving such matters in other jurisdictions, which could materially and adversely affect our business, financial condition and results of operations and result in a diversion of the time and resources of our management and board of directors.
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You may only be able to exercise your Warrants on a “cashless basis” under certain circumstances, and if you do so, you will receive fewer Ordinary Shares from such exercise than if you were to exercise such warrants for cash.
The Warrant Agreement and, with respect to Warrants not then held by the IIAC Sponsor or its permitted transferees, the New Warrant Agreement provide that in the following circumstances holders of Warrants who seek to exercise their warrants will not be permitted to do it for cash and will, instead, be required to do so on a cashless basis in accordance with Section 3(a)(9) of the Securities Act: if we have so elected and the Ordinary Shares are at the time of any exercise of such Warrant not listed on a national securities exchange such that they satisfy the definition of “covered securities” under Section 18(b)(1) of the Securities Act. Additionally, holders of Warrants may only be able to exercise their Warrants on a cashless basis in accordance with Section 3(a)(9) of the Securities Act if there is no effective registration statement covering the issuance of Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of the Warrants. If you exercise your Warrants on a cashless basis in any of the foregoing circumstances, you will pay the warrant exercise price by surrendering all of the Warrants for that number of Ordinary Shares equal to the lesser of (A) the quotient obtained by dividing (x) the product of the number of Ordinary Shares underlying the Warrants, multiplied by the excess of the “fair market value” (as defined in the next sentence) of our Ordinary Shares over the exercise price of the Warrants by (y) the fair market value and (B) 0.361. The “fair market value” is the volume-weighted average price of the Ordinary Shares for the 10 trading days ending on the trading day prior to the date on which the notice of exercise is received by the warrant agent. As a result, you would receive fewer Ordinary Shares from such exercise than if you were to exercise such Warrants for cash.
Risks for any holders of Public Warrants
We may redeem your Public Warrants prior to their exercise at a time that is disadvantageous to you, thereby significantly impairing the value of such warrants. We have the ability to redeem outstanding Public Warrants at any time after they become exercisable and prior to their expiration, at a price of $0.01 per warrant, provided that: (i) the closing price of the Ordinary Shares equals or exceeds $18.00 per share (as adjusted for share sub-divisions, share capitalizations, reorganizations, recapitalizations and the like) for any 20 trading days within a 30 trading day period ending on the third trading day prior to the date on which a notice of redemption is sent to the warrantholders and (ii) there is an effective registration statement under the Securities Act covering the issuance of Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of the Warrants, and a current prospectus relating thereto is available throughout the 30-day redemption period. If and when the Public Warrants become redeemable by us, we may exercise our redemption right even if we are unable to register or qualify the underlying securities for sale under all applicable state securities laws. Redemption of the outstanding Public Warrants could force you (i) to exercise your Public Warrants and pay the exercise price therefor at a time when it may be disadvantageous for you to do so, (ii) to sell your Public Warrants at the then-current market price when you might otherwise wish to hold your Public Warrants, or (iii) to accept the nominal redemption price which, at the time the outstanding Public Warrants are called for redemption, is likely to be substantially less than the market value of your Public Warrants.
In addition, we have the ability to redeem the outstanding Public Warrants at any time after they become exercisable and prior to their expiration, at a price of $0.10 per warrant if, among other things, the closing price of the Ordinary Shares equals or exceeds $10.00 per share (as adjusted for share sub-divisions, share dividends, rights issuances, subdivisions, reorganizations, recapitalizations and the like) for any 20 trading days within a 30 trading day period ending on the third trading day prior to the date on which a notice of redemption is sent to the warrantholders. In such a case, the holders will be able to exercise their Public Warrants on a “cashless basis” prior to redemption for a number of Ordinary Shares determined based on a table in which the number of Ordinary Shares is based on the redemption date and the fair market value of the Ordinary Shares, where fair market value is the volume weighted average price of the Ordinary Shares for the ten (10) trading days immediately following the date on which notice of redemption is sent to the warrantholders.
The value received upon exercise of the Public Warrants (1) may be less than the value the holders would have received if they had exercised their Public Warrants at a later time where the underlying share price is higher and (2) may not compensate the holders for the value of the Public Warrants.
It may be difficult to enforce U.S. judgments against us.
Zegna is a company incorporated under the laws of the Netherlands, and a substantial portion of its assets are outside of the United States. Most of our directors and senior management and independent auditors are resident outside the United States, and all or a substantial portion of their respective assets may be located outside the United States. As a result, it may be difficult for U.S. investors to effect service of process within the United States upon these persons. It may also be difficult for U.S. investors to enforce within the United States judgments predicated upon the civil liability provisions of the securities laws of the United States or any state thereof. In addition, there is uncertainty as to whether the courts outside the United States would recognize or enforce judgments of U.S. courts obtained against us or our directors and officers predicated upon the civil liability provisions of the securities laws of the United States or any state thereof. Therefore, it may be difficult to enforce U.S. judgments against us, our directors and officers and independent auditors.
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CAUTIONARY NOTE REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS
This prospectus contains forward-looking statements. Forward-looking statements provide the current expectations or forecasts of future events of Zegna. Forward-looking statements include statements about Zegna’s expectations, beliefs, plans, objectives, intentions, assumptions and other statements that are not historical facts. Words or phrases such as “anticipate,” “believe,” “continue,” “could,” “estimate,” “expect,” “intend,” “may,” “might,” “objective,” “ongoing,” “plan,” “potential,” “predict,” “project,” “should,” “will” and “would,” or similar words or phrases, or the negatives of those words or phrases, may identify forward-looking statements, but the absence of these words does not necessarily mean that a statement is not forward-looking. Examples of forward-looking statements in this prospectus include, but are not limited to, statements regarding Zegna’s disclosure concerning Zegna’s operations, cash flows, financial position and dividend policy.
Forward-looking statements are subject to known and unknown risks and uncertainties and are based on potentially inaccurate assumptions that could cause actual results to differ materially from those expected or implied by the forward-looking statements. The risks and uncertainties include, but are not limited to:
• | the impact of COVID-19 or similar public health crises on Zegna’s business; |
• | disruptions arising from political, social and economic instability, geopolitical tensions or civil unrest, including the current conflict in Ukraine; |
• | the effect of the consummation of the Business Combination on Zegna’s business, cash flows, financial condition or results of operations; |
• | the ability of Zegna to safeguard the recognition, integrity and reputation of its brands and to identify and respond to new and changing customer preferences; |
• | the ability of Zegna to successfully implement its strategy; |
• | disruptions to Zegna’s manufacturing and logistics facilities, as well as DOSs, including as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic; |
• | risks related to the operation of Zegna’s DOSs, including as a result of difficulties in renewing the existing lease agreements, an increase in rental charges or a decline in sales, and the operation of points of sale by third parties in the wholesale channel; |
• | fluctuations in the price or quality of, or disruptions in the availability of, raw materials used by Zegna for its products, which could cause Zegna to incur increased costs, disrupt its manufacturing processes or prevent or delay Zegna from meeting its customers’ demand; |
• | the ability of Zegna to negotiate, maintain or renew license agreements with high end third party brands; |
• | shifts in travel patterns or declines in travel volumes, including as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic; |
• | the ability to attract and retain key senior personnel and preserve craftmanship skills; |
• | Zegna’s ability to protect its intellectual property rights; |
• | disruptions or breaches compromising Zegna’s information technology systems or the personal information of Zegna’s customers; |
• | Zegna’s ability to maintain Zegna’s securities’ listing on the NYSE; |
• | the fact that the market price of Zegna’s securities may be volatile due to a variety of factors; |
• | the ability to develop and maintain effective internal controls; |
• | material weaknesses have been identified in Zegna’s internal control over financial reporting and if Zegna fails to remediate these material weaknesses or maintain an effective system of internal controls, it may not be able to produce timely and accurate financial statements or comply with applicable laws and regulations; |
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• | changes in local economic, business, regulatory, social and political conditions, as well as changes in general economic conditions and in demand for luxury goods; |
• | exchange rate fluctuations, interest rate changes, credit risk and other market risks; |
• | the high levels of competition in the luxury goods market; |
• | compliance with laws, including laws and regulation related to intellectual property, competition, product safety, packaging and labeling, import and processing of certain raw materials and finished goods, data protection, limits on cash payments, worker health and safety and the environment; |
• | changes in trade policy, the imposition of tariffs, the enactment of tax reforms and other changes in laws and regulations; and |
• | other factors discussed elsewhere in this prospectus in the section “Risk Factors”. |
Actual results could differ materially from those anticipated in forward-looking statements for many reasons, including the factors described in the section “Risk Factors” of this prospectus. Accordingly, you should not rely on such forward-looking statements, which speak only as of the date of this prospectus. Zegna undertakes no obligation to publicly revise any forward-looking statement to reflect circumstances or events after the date of this prospectus or to reflect the occurrence of unanticipated events. You should, however, review the factors and risks Zegna describes in the prospectuses and reports it will file from time to time with the SEC.
Although Zegna believes the expectations reflected in the forward-looking statements were reasonable at the time made, it cannot guarantee future results, level of activity, performance or achievements. Moreover, neither Zegna, nor any other person assumes responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of such forward-looking statements. You should carefully consider the cautionary statements contained or referred to in this section in connection with the forward-looking statements contained in this prospectus and any subsequent written or oral forward-looking statements that may be issued by Zegna or persons acting on its behalf.
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All of the Ordinary Shares and Warrants offered by the selling securityholders pursuant to this prospectus will be sold by the selling securityholders for their respective accounts. We will not receive any of the proceeds from such sales. We will pay certain expenses associated with the registration of the securities covered by this prospectus, as described in the section titled “Plan of Distribution”.
We will receive up to an aggregate of approximately $231.3 million from the exercise of the Warrants, assuming the exercise in full of all of the Warrants. We expect to use the net proceeds from the exercise of the Warrants for general corporate purposes. We will have broad discretion over the use of proceeds from the exercise of the Warrants. There is no assurance that the holders of the Warrants will elect to exercise any or all of such Warrants. To the extent that any of the Warrants are exercised on a “cashless basis,” the amount of cash we would receive from the exercise of the Warrants will decrease.
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We have not paid any cash dividends on the Ordinary Shares from the Closing of the Business Combination to date. The Company intends to pay regular dividends on outstanding Ordinary Shares. However, any decision to declare and pay dividends in the future will ultimately be made at the discretion of the Zegna Board and will depend on the Group’s results of operations, business conditions, financial conditions, earnings, cash balances, commitments, strategic plans and other factors that the Zegna Board may deem relevant at the time it recommends approval of any such dividend, including economic and market conditions.
Pursuant to Dutch law and the Zegna Articles of Association, the distribution of dividends will take place following the adoption of the annual accounts, from which we will determine whether such distribution is permitted. We may make distributions to our shareholders, whether from profits or from our freely distributable reserves, only insofar as our shareholders’ equity exceeds the sum of the paid-up and called-up share capital plus any reserves to be maintained by Dutch law or the Zegna Articles of Association.
The Zegna Board may resolve to reserve the profits or part of the profits. Any profits remaining after the reservation referred to in the previous sentence by the Zegna Board will first be applied to allocate and add to the dividend reserve for each class of Zegna Special Voting Shares an amount equal to 1% of the aggregate nominal value of all issued and outstanding Zegna Special Voting Shares of that class. The profits remaining after application of the preceding sentence will be at the disposal of the Zegna General Meeting, which may resolve to add the remaining profits to the reserves or distribute them to the holders of Ordinary Shares. Distributions of dividends will be made to Zegna’s shareholders in proportion to the nominal value of their Ordinary Shares.
Pursuant to Dutch law and the Zegna Articles of Association, the Zegna Board or the Zegna General Meeting at the proposal of the Zegna Board will be allowed to resolve upon interim distributions on Ordinary Shares. For this purpose, the Zegna Board must prepare an interim statement of assets and liabilities. Such interim statement shall show our financial position not earlier than on the first day of the third month before the month in which the resolution to make the interim distribution is announced. An interim dividend can only be paid if (i) an interim statement of assets and liabilities is drawn up showing that the funds available for distribution are sufficient, and (ii) our shareholders’ equity exceeds the sum of the paid-up and called-up share capital and any reserves to be maintained by Dutch law or the Zegna Articles of Association. Interim distributions will be made in cash, in kind or in the form of Ordinary Shares.
Since Zegna is a holding company and its operations are carried out through its subsidiaries, Zegna’s ability to pay dividends will primarily depend on the ability of its subsidiaries to generate earnings and to provide it with the necessary financial resources.
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The following table sets forth the consolidated capitalization of Zegna as of December 31, 2021, and should be read together with the Consolidated Financial Statements and the information under “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” included elsewhere in this prospectus.
(Euro thousands) | ||||
For the years ended December 31, 2021 | ||||
Cash and cash equivalents, other current financial assets and derivatives: | ||||
Cash and cash equivalents | 459,791 | |||
Derivatives financial instruments — assets | 1,786 | |||
Other current financial assets (securities) (*) | 334,244 | |||
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| |||
Total Cash and cash equivalents, other current financial assets and derivatives | 795,821 | |||
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| |||
Borrowings, other financial liabilities and derivatives: | ||||
Non-current financial borrowings | 471,646 | |||
Current financial borrowings | 157,292 | |||
Derivative financial instruments — Liabilities | 14,138 | |||
Other non-current financial liabilities (other) (**) | 7,976 | |||
|
| |||
Total borrowings, other financial liabilities and derivatives | 651,052 | |||
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| |||
Equity: | ||||
Share capital | 5,939 | |||
Other reserves | 96,679 | |||
Retained earnings | 498,592 | |||
Total equity attributable to non-controlling interest | 43,094 | |||
|
| |||
Total equity | 644,304 | |||
|
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Total capitalization | 1,295,356 | |||
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(*) | Includes only the “securities” component of the “Other current financial assets” line item from Zegna’s consolidated statement of financial position. |
(**) | Includes only the “other” component of the “Other non-current financial liabilities” line item from Zegna’s consolidated statement of financial position. |
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Overview of the Business
We are a leading global luxury group, internationally recognized for the distinctive heritage of craftsmanship, quality and design associated with our Zegna and Thom Browne brands and the noble fabrics and fibers of our in-house luxury textile and knitwear business. Since our foundation in 1910, we have expanded beyond our luxury textile production to ready-to-wear products and accessories to become a highly recognized luxury lifestyle group. We design, manufacture, market and distribute luxury menswear, footwear, leather goods and other accessories under the Zegna and the Thom Browne brands, and luxury womenswear and childrenswear under the Thom Browne brand. Our product range is complemented by eyewear, cufflinks and jewelry, watches, underwear and beachwear manufactured by third parties under licenses. Our business covers the entire value chain as a result of our design, manufacturing and distribution business. Our goal is to provide customers with excellent products that reflect our tradition of fine craftsmanship with exclusive design content and with a style that preserves the exceptional manufacturing quality we are known for, through the sourcing of superior raw materials, the careful finish of each piece, and the way they are delivered to our customers.
In 2021, 2020 and 2019, Zegna recorded revenues of €1,292,402 thousand, €1,014,733 thousand and €1,321,327 thousand, respectively, (Loss)/Profit for the year of (€127,661) thousand, (€46,540) thousand and €25,439 thousand, respectively, Adjusted EBIT of €149,115 thousand, €20,013 thousand and €107,274 thousand, respectively, and Adjusted Profit/(Loss) of €75,332 thousand, (€4,752) thousand and €43,047 thousand, respectively. For additional information relating to Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted Profit/(Loss), which are non-IFRS measures, including a reconciliation of (Loss)/Profit for the year to Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted Profit/(Loss), see “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations—Operating and Financial Review and Prospects—Non-IFRS Financial Measures.”
We operate our business in two segments: the Zegna segment (comprising three product lines: Zegna Branded Products, Textile and Third Party Brands (formerly known as Strategic Alliances)) and the Thom Browne segment. Before the deconsolidation of the Agnona business in January 2021, we were also active in the luxury womenswear business through the Agnona product line of the Zegna segment.
With respect to the Zegna Branded Products product line and Thom Browne segment, we operate via our direct-to-consumer or DTC channel worldwide through our network of 245 Zegna and 52 Thom Browne DOSs as of December 31, 2021 (255 Zegna DOSs, prior to the transformation of 17 DOSs in Korea into franchised stores, and 38 Thom Browne DOSs as of December 31, 2020). We also distribute our products worldwide through monobrand or multibrand points of sale operated by our wholesale customers. Taking into account our DTC channel and our wholesale distribution channel, we are present in over 80 countries worldwide. Our DTC channel includes monobrand boutiques and outlets, as well as concessions in department stores and multibrand e-commerce marketplaces. In our wholesale channel, we sell our products to franchisees, department stores, multibrand specialty stores and online multi-brand e-tailers.
The activities of the Textile product line and Third Party Brands product line (formerly known as the Strategic Alliances product line) follow their own operational phases and logics. Through the Textile product line, we sell our fabrics both to other product lines of the Zegna segment or to the Thom Browne segment, and to third party customers. Through the Third Party Brands product line, we are engaged in the manufacturing and distribution or the supply of menswear to other fashion brands.
The following tables show our consolidated revenues for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, and provide a split by geographic area and segment.
Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||
Years ended December 31, | 2021 vs. 2020 | 2020 vs. 2019 | ||||||||||||||||||
(€ thousand, except percentages) | 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | % Actual | % Actual | |||||||||||||||
EMEA(1) | 380,325 | 315,879 | 431,384 | 20.4 | % | (26.8 | )% | |||||||||||||
of which Italy | 158,722 | 121,202 | 140,676 | 31.0 | % | (13.8 | )% | |||||||||||||
of which United Kingdom | 37,682 | 32,985 | 58,012 | 14.2 | % | (43.1 | )% | |||||||||||||
North America(2) | 191,283 | 131,049 | 233,327 | 46.0 | % | (43.8 | )% | |||||||||||||
of which United States | 176,059 | 114,818 | 205,744 | 53.3 | % | (44.2 | )% | |||||||||||||
Latin America(3) | 19,971 | 12,915 | 25,404 | 54.6 | % | (49.2 | )% | |||||||||||||
APAC(4) | 696,344 | 551,650 | 626,059 | 26.2 | % | (11.9 | )% | |||||||||||||
of which Greater China Region | 588,876 | 438,193 | 458,294 | 34.4 | % | (4.4 | )% | |||||||||||||
of which Japan | 55,479 | 61,523 | 90,240 | (9.8 | )% | (31.8 | )% | |||||||||||||
Other(5) | 4,479 | 3,240 | 5,153 | 38.2 | % | (37.1 | )% | |||||||||||||
Total | 1,292,402 | 1,014,733 | 1,321,327 | 27.4 | % | (23.2 | )% |
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(1) | EMEA comprises Europe, the Middle East and Africa. |
(2) | North America includes the United States of America and Canada. |
(3) | Latin America includes Mexico, Brazil and other Central and South American countries. |
(4) | APAC includes Greater China Region, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, India and other South East Asian countries. |
(5) | Other includes royalties fees, certain sales of old seasons products, and exchange rate impact deriving from hedging transactions on revenues. |
Years ended December 31, | ||||||||||||
(€ thousand, except percentages) | 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | |||||||||
Zegna segment | 1,035,175 | 843,318 | 1,165,911 | |||||||||
Thom Browne segment | 264,066 | 179,794 | 161,200 | |||||||||
Eliminations | (6,839 | ) | (8,379 | ) | (5,784 | ) | ||||||
Total | 1,292,402 | 1,014,733 | 1,321,327 |
History
Ermenegildo Zegna N.V., a Dutch public limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap), results from the cross-border conversion whereby, on the Closing Date of the Business Combination, Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A., an Italian joint stock company (società per azioni), transferred its legal seat from Italy to the Netherlands and amended its articles of association. Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. is the parent company of the Zegna group and is named after our founder Ermenegildo Zegna (the grandfather of our Chief Executive Officer), who started his business in the Northern Italian town of Trivero in 1910 with the dream of creating the most beautiful and luxurious fabrics in the world.
Zegna & Giardino snc was initially formed by Ermenegildo together with his brothers Edoardo and Mario and Mr. Costanzo Giardino Vitri as an Italian società in nome collettivo (general partnership) to produce high-quality fabrics utilizing the Zegna brothers’ wool mill and looms. In 1915, upon the exit of Mr. Giardino Vitri, the company was renamed Fratelli Zegna di Angelo snc. Shortly thereafter, Edoardo Zegna also left the company.
The company sourced the best quality natural fibers directly from their countries of origin, imported them to Italy to be expertly woven, and subsequently exported these luxury fabrics worldwide. In the late 1920s, the wool mill employed more than 700 workers, growing to more than 1,000 in the late 1940s. In 1938, the company began to export fabrics in the United States through its subsidiary Zegna Woollens Corporation.
Our founder’s vision, which continues to inspire and guide our business today, was that product quality can only flourish when there is a culture of beauty that must also respect the environment and the well-being of local communities. With that goal in mind, our founder built facilities including a swimming pool, a school, a hospital and a road in order to enrich the lives of people in his town. He also launched an extensive reforestation project in the hills surrounding the Lanificio wool mill, expanded over the course of the years and now known as “Oasi Zegna.”
In 1941, Fratelli Zegna di Angelo snc was dissolved by mutual agreement of our founder Ermenegildo Zegna and his brother Mario, and Ermenegildo formed a new company named Lanificio Fratelli Zegna di Angelo di Ermenegildo Zegna snc (later renamed Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna – Trivero). The company was dissolved in 1944, when Ermenegildo Zegna and his son Aldo formed Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli snc. In 1945, Ermenegildo’s son Angelo entered this partnership. In the mid-1960s, Ermenegildo’s sons Aldo and Angelo took over the partnership. Under their guidance, the label expanded its business to ready-made suits and established new plants and distribution networks abroad. In 1968, the first factory producing sleeve-units and trousers was opened in Novara, Italy, followed by factory openings in Spain, Greece, and Switzerland. Sales and marketing departments were also established in France, Germany, the United Kingdom and the United States.
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In 1972, Zegna launched its made-to-measure service called “Su Misura.”
Zegna’s brand internationalization strategy continued with the opening of Zegna’s first boutique in Paris (1980), followed by boutiques in Milan (1985), London (1987), Tokyo (1989), Beijing (1991) and Hong Kong (1993), making Ermenegildo Zegna one of the first luxury brands to establish a presence in Greater China.
Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna e Figli S.a.s. converted into a joint stock company on July 1, 1984, taking the name of Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A.
Between 1979 and the 1990s, the third generation of the Zegna family entered the business. In 1998, Angelo’s son, Ermenegildo “Gildo” Zegna, and Aldo’s son, Paolo, became the co-Chief Executive Officers. In 2006, Ermenegildo “Gildo” Zegna became the sole Chief Executive Officer and Paolo Zegna was elected Chairman. Under their leadership, Zegna began a strategy of brand extension, both organically and with M&A activity, and full verticalization.
Zegna entered the luxury womenswear business in 1999 by acquiring the Italian brand Agnona. The Agnona business was later deconsolidated with the sale in January 2021 of a 70% interest. See “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations—Operating and Financial Review and Prospects” for further information.
In 2009, Zegna acquired the business of Tessitura di Novara, which specialized in the production of silk. In 2014, Zegna acquired a majority equity interest in Achill, an Australian wool farm of 2,500 hectares (approximately 6,175 acres), home to about 10,000 Merino sheep in its flock. Achill was demerged on November 1, 2021 prior to the completion of the Business Combination and is now majority owned by Monterubello, but Zegna continues to source raw materials from this wool farm.
In 2016, Zegna acquired a majority stake in Bonotto, a high-end textile manufacturer based in Molvena, Italy, expanding Zegna’s presence into new areas such as furnishing and experimental fabrics.
In 2018, Zegna acquired an 85% interest in Thom Browne, a leading and fast growing luxury brand focused on high-end menswear and womenswear. Zegna subsequently acquired an additional 5% interest in Thom Browne in June 2021. Under a put option agreement between Zegna and Mr. Thom Browne, Mr. Thom Browne has the right, but not the obligation, to sell to Zegna up to 550.9674 shares of common stock of Thom Browne Inc. (representing the remaining 10% interest in the company held by Mr. Thom Browne) over the period between 2024 and 2030 (subject to potential deferral until 2032). In 2018, Zegna also acquired Cappellificio Cervo, a historic hatmaker in Biella, Italy with over 150 years of history.
In 2019, Zegna acquired a 65% interest in Dondi, an Italian high-end jersey fabrics manufacturer, enhancing Zegna’s control over its textile supply chain.
In the last two decades, Zegna has also expanded its presence in adjacent luxury markets thanks to partnerships with recognized leaders. In 1999, Zegna entered into a license agreement with Tateossian for the manufacturing and distribution of Zegna-branded cufflinks and jewelry. In 2011, Zegna signed a worldwide licensing agreement with Estée Lauder for the Ermenegildo Zegna fragrance line, with the latest collection launched in the fourth quarter of 2021. Since 2013, Zegna has partnered with Italian luxury vehicle manufacturer Maserati to produce customized interiors, as well as several collections of leather goods, travel-friendly clothing and personal accessories. In 2014, Zegna entered into a ten-year licensing agreement with the Marcolin Group for the manufacture of Zegna-branded luxury eyewear. In 2016 and 2017 respectively, Zegna entered into an exclusive license agreement for underwear and beachwear with Isaseta.
During 2021, Zegna further strengthened its presence in the textiles business with the acquisition of a 60% stake in Tessitura Ubertino, a business specialized in high-end fabrics for women based in Pratrivero, Italy, and a 40% stake in Filati Biagioli Modesto, a business specialized in the production of carded yarns based in Montale, Italy. Concurrently with Zegna’s acquisition, the Prada Group also acquired a 40% stake in Filati Biagioli Modesto.
On July 18, 2021, Zegna entered into the Business Combination Agreement and certain ancillary agreements. Also on July 18, 2021, the PIPE Investors that had chosen to participate in the PIPE Financing indicated their final subscription amounts and delivered executed PIPE Subscription Agreements to Zegna and IIAC.
On December 17, 2021, Zegna closed the previously announced Business Combination pursuant to the Business Combination Agreement, by and among Zegna, IIAC and Zegna Merger Sub. In connection with the Business Combination, the following transactions occurred pursuant to the terms of the Business Combination Agreement:
• | on the Closing Date prior to the Effective Time, Zegna implemented the Conversion and became a Dutch public limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap), upon which Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A. changed its name to Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.; |
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• | in connection with the Conversion, Zegna underwent a share split such that immediately following the Closing (including the Share Repurchase) the then-existing shareholders of Zegna would hold 155,400,000 Ordinary Shares (excluding any Ordinary Shares purchased in connection with the PIPE Financing); |
• | on the Closing Date following the Conversion and prior to the Effective Time, the FPA Purchaser purchased from IIAC and IIAC issued to such FPA Purchaser 22,500,000 Class A Shares for an aggregate purchase price of €191.8 million; |
• | immediately following the consummation of the Forward Purchase, at the Effective Time, Zegna Merger Sub merged with and into IIAC, with IIAC being the Surviving Company in the Merger; |
• | in connection with the Merger, (a) each share in the capital of Zegna Merger Sub issued and outstanding immediately prior to the Effective Time was automatically cancelled and extinguished and converted into one ordinary share in the share capital of the Surviving Company, (b) each Class A Share and Class B Share of IIAC issued and outstanding immediately prior to the Effective Time (excluding shares tendered for redemption) remained outstanding as one ordinary share of the Surviving Company for further contribution as a contribution in kind, immediately following the Effective Time, to Zegna in consideration for one Ordinary Share, (c) each IIAC Ordinary Share held immediately prior to the Effective Time by IIAC as treasury shares was cancelled, and no consideration was paid with respect thereto, (d) each outstanding IIAC Public Warrant automatically ceased to represent a right to acquire one Class A Share and automatically was converted and represented, at the Effective Time, a right to acquire one Ordinary Share on the same contractual terms and conditions as were in effect immediately prior to the Effective Time under the terms of the Warrant Agreement, and (e) 5,900,000 IIAC Private Placement Warrants that were outstanding immediately prior to the Effective Time were exchanged, at the Effective Time, for the issuance by Zegna of a Private Placement Warrant representing a right to acquire one Ordinary Share on the same contractual terms and conditions as those of the IIAC Private Placement Warrants as were in effect immediately prior to the Warrant Agreement Amendment, while the remaining 800,000 IIAC Private Placement Warrants were transferred by the FPA Purchaser to Zegna pursuant to the Business Combination Agreement, and Zegna issued a corresponding number of Private Placement Warrants to certain of its directors, namely the directors who were members of the Zegna Board prior to the Conversion, the Lead Non-Executive Director and the chairperson of the Audit Committee; |
• | immediately following the Effective Time, Zegna consummated the PIPE Financing and the Offset PIPE Financing; |
• | after the consummation of the PIPE Financing and the Offset PIPE Financing, the Surviving Company distributed an amount of cash equal to the Capital Distribution Amount to Zegna by way of the Capital Distribution; and |
• | promptly following the Capital Distribution, Zegna completed the Share Repurchase, acquiring 54,600,000 Ordinary Shares from Monterubello in exchange for a promissory note in the amount of the Cash Consideration. Such promissory note was repaid by Zegna on December 21, 2021. |
Competitive Strengths
We believe that the following key competitive strengths have been the primary drivers of our historic success and will continue to be the pillars of our growth strategy.
Heritage and Sustainability at the Core. Since its foundation over 110 years ago, Zegna has been synonymous with quality and style for men. We believe that our brands and products enjoy strong visibility and an established reputation in the market associated with style, quality and innovation. Born as a fabric maker, Zegna has grown into a worldwide luxury lifestyle group for formalwear and luxury leisurewear, and today over 100 years later it remains controlled by the Zegna family. We are rooted in an authentic history: our founder’s vision and business gene has been passed down through the generations, ensuring that the Zegna brand guarantees his legacy based on a sustainable business; giving back, responsibility towards the environment and community well-being are key to the brand development. An expression of this vision is the so called “Oasi Zegna,” a freely accessible natural reserve covering approximately 100 square kilometers from Trivero to the peaks of the Biella Alps in Italy, created by our founder over 100 years ago and rebranded “Oasi Zegna” in 1993 with the goal of fostering a positive relationship with the local territory and the community by creating a lasting environment for the public to enjoy. Oasi Zegna has been and continues to be an important source of inspiration for our collections. While Oasi Zegna was disposed of prior to the closing of the Business Combination as part of the Disposition, we concluded an agreement with Oasi Zegna to continue to pursue our mutually inspiring relationship. At Zegna, sustainability has been part of our ethos since inception. It is as much part of our DNA and history as the quality of our clothes. This carries over into everything that we do, from the technology we use to create our products to the constant dialogue we have with our customers and suppliers.
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Made in Italy Luxury Laboratory Platform. We benefit from a full verticalization of the supply chain through our historical Lanificio Zegna as well as our recent acquisitions of Dondi, Bonotto, Tessitura Ubertino and Filati Biagioli Modesto. Our in-house laboratory platform allows us to focus on innovation and research of the finest and highest performing fabrics, but also to leverage a modular approach to the manufacturing process depending on production needs, giving us high flexibility and efficiency. We believe that this provides us with a competitive advantage. Through our long-term relationships with our suppliers, we enjoy privileged access in the procurement of the finest fibers and fabrics and we are able to ensure enhanced traceability and quality control of the raw materials. Thanks to our experienced in-house teams, our personnel dedicated to research and development (approximately 280 employees currently) and our leading technological capabilities, we are able to manage the entire production process throughout the various stages, either in-house or through our network of trusted, long standing external manufacturers. The excellence of our output is the reason why we not only serve the needs of our proprietary brands Zegna and Thom Browne, but also a number of top luxury players, which rely on us to supply top quality products.
Global Group and Pioneer in Greater China Region. We are a world leading luxury leisurewear and formalwear brand with a strong international footprint. In 2021, we recorded 53.9% of our consolidated revenues in APAC, 29.4% in EMEA, 14.8% in North America and 1.5% in Latin America. A key to our success has been our presence and the force of our brand in the Greater China Region, where we have operated directly since the 1990s. The Greater China market, particularly for luxury consumer goods, has grown at an extraordinary pace in the last two decades. We expect this trend to remain dynamic and believe that our longstanding experience in this region makes us optimally positioned to operate there thanks to our knowledge of the relevant market, market penetration and awareness of our brands by consumers in the Greater China Region.
A Platform For Growth in the Luxury Space. We have the skills and experience to act as a long-term industrial partner. Our in-house laboratory platform, full verticalization of the supply chain, primary knowledge of the Greater China market and leading technological capabilities, coupled with scalability and industrial and retail expertise, allow us to add value to the businesses we partner with. A prominent example of this is the performance of Thom Browne following our acquisition in 2018, with revenues growing from €117 million in 2018 to €264 million before eliminations in 2021.
Experienced Management Team Combining Family and Outside Talent. Our management team combines both representatives of the Zegna family such as our Chairperson and Chief Executive Officer Ermenegildo “Gildo” Zegna, and outside talent such as Mr. Alessandro Sartori, who is in charge of Zegna’s creative process, and Mr. Thom Browne, the Founder and Chief Creative Officer of Thom Browne. Our managers have long-standing experience in the luxury fashion market and a deep understanding of market dynamics and evolution.
Strategy
We intend to maintain and extend our leading position in the luxury fashion market and to continue to protect and enhance the value and exclusivity of our brands. We also aim to achieve profitable growth by pursuing the following strategies.
Luxury Leisurewear. In recent years, our apparel offer has shifted towards more versatile and technical luxury leisurewear for men in order to meet the needs of a fast-paced world. The evolution from pure formalwear is our new definition of men’s style that we call “luxury leisurewear,” a new, versatile wardrobe that combines performance and comfort without compromising quality to become a fundamental part of our design philosophy moving forward. Sales of outerwear, knitwear and jersey have been increasing significantly in recent years.
We intend to continue to consolidate the shift toward luxury leisurewear and this new style approach with a focus on categories of products meeting the changing habits and preferences of our customers and their demand for greater comfort and a modern aesthetic. We believe that this trend will also allow us to expand our reach to a broader, younger client base.
Create New Iconic Products and Attract New Customers. We intend to continue to launch new products, in particular focusing on iconic products that can be visually and easily recognized and offer superior growth, as in the case of our Triple Stitch shoes, while continuing to preserve the exceptional quality we are known for. We believe that there are significant opportunities to capitalize on our brands’ recognition and existing customer base by enhancing our current product assortment and introducing new product categories. Additionally, we plan to identify new product categories (e.g. overshirts and 5-pocket pants) that will allow us to attract new customers and increase the appeal of our brands to a younger and more diverse customer base.
One Brand. In the fourth quarter of 2021, we announced a rebranding strategy, whereby, starting with the Fall/Winter 2022 season, our Ermenegildo Zegna, Z Zegna and Ermenegildo Zegna XXX brands will be consolidated into a single brand characterized by a new logo and a distinctive signifier. The new brand, logo and signifier are designed to be iconic and immediately recognizable, allowing us to focus our collection and enhance our new luxury leisurewear proposition, which is proving to be successful both with our new customers and our existing loyal customers.
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Thom Browne Growth. Thom Browne’s brand is broadly recognized amongst younger customers and perceived as an insurgent brand. We intend to continue leveraging the positive momentum around the brand and its customer proposition, and to remain at the forefront of product innovation. In particular, we intend to grow the Thom Browne business by pursuing the following strategies:
• | continue the successful development of Thom Browne products, focusing on growth of Thom Browne’s womenswear and accessories; |
• | significantly expand Thom Browne’s customer base while maintaining the loyalty of its existing customers by taking actions to increase the brand awareness and continuing to maintain a creative, thought-provoking design style with strong tailoring aesthetics; |
• | continue to grow Thom Browne’s direct distribution channels, both through physical locations and e- commerce platforms; and |
• | maintain a limited-volume presence in the wholesale distribution channel as a platform to increase the brand’s visibility and awareness. |
Digital. We intend to continue to use digital tools to strengthen our processes and brands, attract new customers and retain our existing customer base. In particular for the Zegna brand, we expect that the focus on luxury leisurewear, iconic products and our rebranding strategy will continue to enhance our digital penetration. The Zegna segment’s DTC channel already includes, amongst others, an e-commerce shop operated directly in several countries through our website www.zegna.com, and other e-commerce platforms through which we sell directly to our customers (such as TMall Luxury Pavilion, Farfetch and WeChat) and whose sales systems are integrated with Zegna’s sales and warehouse management systems. Other prestigious online multibrand stores in our wholesale channel include SSENSE, Mr. Porter and JD. In addition, the Thom Browne segment’s DTC channel includes an e-commerce shop operated directly through the website www.thombrowne.com, and Thom Browne is particularly capable of leveraging its customers’ brand awareness and presence in the main digital channels to drive traffic to its physical stores, thereby translating into reality and expanding the omni-channel concept.
Moreover, we are enhancing our digital capabilities to offer effective online customer services and direct messaging, to support data driven marketing activities, to intercept consumer needs and develop products meeting customer preferences, improve customer experience, conduct commercial outreach, develop media and social media communication campaigns and offer digital showrooms for both our wholesale customers and retail buyers. We believe that reinforcing our digital tools has permitted, and will continue to permit us to reach a wider, younger, and more diverse audience and transmit our identity, history and values.
Luxury today is service and the personalization of interactions. Our goal is to seamlessly integrate the customer experience into multiple touchpoints. We think of digital more broadly than a sale channel: we also use digital to engage clients and serve them through their preferred channel.
Industry
This section describes the trends and dynamics of the market in which we operate.
We operate in the personal luxury goods market with most of our revenues derived from the apparel and accessories markets. 8%, 9% and 8% of our revenues after eliminations for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively, were derived from the luxury textiles market, which is not described in this section.
The personal luxury goods market includes the following product segments: accessories, jewelry, beauty, apparel and watches. By product, we primarily operate in the apparel and accessories segments of the personal luxury goods market.
The information relating to the industry contained in this section has been based on the Bain-Altagamma Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study, Fall 2021, dated November 11, 2021 (the “Study”). The figures included for the year 2021 are estimates (as actual figures for such year were not available as of the date of publication of the Study). See “Market and Industry Information”. The Study describes an industry which is not highly concentrated, and which at the time of publication of the Study was poised for sustained growth in the years from 2021 to 2025 with some identified key drivers. However, the ongoing geopolitical tensions and their repercussions on the global economy and the financial markets, together with the persistence of COVID-19 and the related restrictive measures, may create uncertainties for the global luxury goods consumers and reduce their interest for, and financial ability
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to buy, luxury products. This could negatively affect the reliability of the estimates contained in this section, including by reducing the level of luxury demand development or the growth rate, and actual results may be differ significantly from such estimates. See also “Risk Factors.”
Trends and structure of the global personal luxury goods market
Demand in the personal luxury goods market, especially in the absolute luxury segment (in which we operate), tends to have a rather low price sensitivity. Demand is driven more by the quality of the products and the extent to which the brand is recognizable and exclusive. The equity of the brand and its intrinsic value are a key factor and usually the products designed, distributed and branded by a luxury company are very distinctive, clearly relatable to their brand and unlikely to be confused with products designed and distributed by lower tier brands or companies.
The global personal luxury goods market had a total estimated value for the year 2021 of approximately €283 billion and has grown steadily for about two decades with a CAGR of 6% from 1996 to 2019. In 2020, the luxury goods market experienced a decline in demand as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic and changing customer preferences and habits, which has led customers to postpone or reduce the purchase of personal luxury goods. In 2021, the personal luxury goods market experienced a V-shaped rebound driven, among other things, by consumers shifting from experiences to products.
The chart below sets forth the evolution of sales in the global personal luxury goods market from 1996 to 2020 and the expected evolution for the years from 2021 to 2025. With the exception of 2020, the global personal luxury goods market has shown a continuous mid-single digit growth path and is expected to have a CAGR of 6-8% from 2021 through 2025.
Personal Luxury Goods Market Evolution – €bn
Source: Bain-Altagamma Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study, Fall 2021, dated November 11, 2021
Since the first quarter of 2021, the global personal luxury goods market started to experience a recovery driven primarily by the positive evolution of the pandemic and the roll-out of COVID-19 vaccines and immunization campaigns, which allowed governments to ease restrictions, leading to a partial resumption of shopping and traveling, partial return to pre-pandemic living styles, levels of consumer confidence and rebounding consumption trends especially in Greater China.
The trends experienced in 2021 are expected to continue to be the main drivers of growth in the coming years.
Certain trends that started before the spread of the COVID-19 pandemic and that are expected to continue over the next few years, representing the drivers of the personal luxury goods market, are: (i) the shift from formal apparel to casual luxury, also driven by the adoption of remote or hybrid working arrangements, (ii) increase in domestic purchases everywhere, and notably in Asia (as
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opposed to tourism-related purchases), (iii) increasing attention to sustainability, diversity and ethical considerations, (iv) increased focus on “hero products,” the iconic best-selling products of a brand, (v) increasing weight of online purchases, as a result of which players in the personal luxury goods market will have to continue the shift to an omnichannel concept, with an increasing integration of the digital and physical shopping experiences, and (vi) strong demographic shift with an increase of “under 40” customers.
The chart below sets forth the projected evolution of sales in the personal luxury goods market per quarter in 2020 and 2021 as compared to the corresponding periods in 2019. Beginning from the third quarter of 2020, the personal luxury goods market shows signs of improvement compared to the prior quarters of the same year, and sales for 2021 are expected to be slightly above those of 2019 at current exchange rates (+1%), or showing a 4% increase at constant exchange rates.
Personal luxury goods market evolution per quarter 2020 and 2021E – %| vs. 2019
Note: @K: growth at constant rates
* | Mid case +1% |
Source: Bain-Altagamma Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study, Fall 2021, dated November 11, 2021
The personal luxury goods market does not appear to be a highly concentrated market. It is characterized by the presence of a small number of global players and a large number of locally-based niche ones. Development strategies adopted by such players have focused on the offer of a wide range of products distinguished by a high degree of innovation and diversification, frequently aiming at offering a “total look” collection.
The personal luxury goods market is characterized by certain barriers to entry, such as: (i) the need to develop or acquire a recognized brand whose reputation must be sustained by high and continuing investments in advertising and communication; (ii) the need to make substantial investments in the development of a distribution network in line with the quality standards required by the industry; (iii) the difficulty to access existing distribution channels, which are closely controlled by the incumbent players; and (iv) the challenge of achieving and maintaining high product quality standards.
Global market trends by geographic area
The chart below sets forth the value of sales in the global personal luxury goods market for 2019 and estimates for the years 2021 and 2025 split by geographic area.
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Personal Luxury Goods Market by Geographic Area – €bn
Source: Bain-Altagamma Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study, Fall 2021, dated November 11, 2021. Percentages may not add to 100% because of rounding.
Market trends through 2025 are expected to show a significant increase in the relative weight of sales of personal luxury goods in China and a significant decrease in the relative weight of sales of personal luxury goods in Europe and the Americas.
Global market trends by product category
Menswear and Accessories Luxury Market
In recent years, growth in the global menswear and accessory luxury market has been primarily driven by the accessories product category. Demand for the menswear product category has been relatively stable in recent years, with a decline of formalwear offset by growing demand for casual luxury products.
Womenswear and Accessories Luxury Market
We are also exposed to the womenswear and accessories luxury market through the Thom Browne segment. Both womenswear and accessories are on a growing trajectory, with accessories enjoying a more pronounced growth than apparel.
Global market trends by product style
In recent years, the menswear luxury market recorded growing demand for products characterized by a casual style, particularly for products such as outerwear, jersey and knitwear. The trend of casualization has been accelerated by the COVID-19 pandemic and the resulting adoption of remote working arrangements and changes in lifestyle.
Brands, Collections and Products
Zegna designs, produces, markets and distributes luxury menswear, footwear, leather goods and other accessories under the Zegna and Thom Browne brands, and luxury womenswear and children clothing under the Thom Browne brand. Zegna also markets eyewear, cufflinks and jewelry, watches, underwear and beachwear manufactured by licensed third parties. Zegna’s business covers the entire value chain thanks to its textile and knitwear design, manufacturing and distribution business (under the brands Lanificio Zegna, Dondi, Bonotto, Tessitura di Novara, Tessitura Ubertino and Filati Biagioli Modesto). The acquisition of historic Italian companies, each specialized in its own product sector, has enabled Zegna over the years to establish a true luxury textile laboratory producing the highest quality fabrics and safeguarding the uniqueness of its Italian supply chain.
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Zegna carries out its business activities through two reportable segments: the Zegna segment and the Thom Browne segment. The Zegna segment consists of three product lines:
• | the Zegna Branded Products product line; |
• | the Textile product line; and |
• | the Third Party Brands product line (formerly known as the Strategic Alliances product line). |
The Thom Browne segment corresponds to the Thom Browne business headed by Zegna’s majority-owned subsidiary Thom Browne Inc.
Zegna Segment
Zegna Branded Products Product Line
For the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, the Zegna Branded Products product line generated revenues equal to €847,311 thousand, €636,478 thousand and €919,545 thousand, respectively, representing 65.6%, 62.7% and 69.6% of our revenues after eliminations. The Zegna Branded Products product line includes luxury leisurewear, formalwear, leather accessories and other Zegna branded products.
The Zegna Branded Products product line offers a complete collection for men.
Over time, our brand evolved and adapted to the needs of the customers, developing different sensibilities, embodied by three brands:
• | Ermenegildo Zegna, the iconic, legendary heart of the brand; |
• | Z Zegna, combining activewear and tailoring with a strong focus on technical innovation and performance fabrics; and |
• | Ermenegildo Zegna XXX, the boldest expression of Zegna, which reimagines contemporary style with couture-level tailoring and fabrics. |
In the fourth quarter of 2021, Zegna announced a rebranding strategy whereby, starting with the Fall/Winter 2022 season, the Ermenegildo Zegna, Z Zegna and Ermenegildo Zegna XXX brands will be replaced by the single brand Zegna, characterized by a new logo and signifier.
Each year Zegna offers pre-collections and main collections organized in two seasons (Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer) for each of the above-mentioned brands, plus a number of temporary capsule collections. The collections include both seasonal products (which change from season to season) and continuative products (which are generally sold across seasons with minimal style changes), and increasingly include iconic products. Capsule collections are temporary collections that are inspired by a certain event (such as the 2021 Chinese New Year capsule collection), concept, or product features (such as the Outdoor Capsule, the first product launch carrying the new logo and signifier and featuring partnerships with top ski and winter sport specialists, and the Techmerino Wash&Go Capsule collection, consisting of garments made of a special merino wool that can be easily washed in cold water, on a delicate setting, without altering the wearability, performance or quality standards).
Luxury leisurewear. In recent years Zegna’s apparel has shifted towards more versatile and technical luxury leisurewear for men, anticipating the needs of a fast-paced world. The evolution from pure formalwear is Zegna’s new definition of men’s style that we call “luxury leisurewear,” a new, versatile wardrobe building on our tradition of excellence. With this new style, Zegna is continuing the process of entering a new era marked by new categories of products meeting the changing habits and preferences of our customers, including the demand for greater comfort. Our luxury leisurewear offer ranges from knits to jeans, jersey and shirts, fabric and leather outerwear and accessories.
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Formalwear. Zegna is historically renowned for luxury formal menswear and for being at the forefront of men’s tailoring with its iconic suits and tuxedos. Our formalwear offer ranges from formal suits to tuxedos, shirts, blazers, formal overcoats and accessories.
Our offer for both luxury leisurewear and formalwear also includes the Made to Measure (Su Misura) service, whereby customers may, following a meeting with a style advisor, order their custom-made garments with their fabric, style and finish of choice. This service is available not only for suits, but also for outerwear, shirts, pants, knitwear, denim and jersey. Our Bespoke services take customization to a higher level including the full experience of putting together a unique piece, from the sketches and design to the choice of the fabrics. Each piece is made specifically for the customer by our tailors in our ateliers in Milan and in Paris, using time-honored tailoring techniques.
Leather accessories. Leather accessories comprise shoes (sneakers and other shoes), bags, belts and small leather accessories. Our shoes offer has in recent years shifted from a prevalence of more formal shoes towards the increasing importance of certain highly recognizable casual sneaker models. In particular these include the successful Triple Stitch model, the Tiziano and the Claudio sneakers. Most of our shoes are produced in Italy, like most other leather accessories. We also provide our customers with the possibility to customize their preferred shoes through our Made-to-Order service. Several of the leather accessories feature the so called “Pelletessuta,” a soft and lightweight woven leather textile exclusively produced for Zegna by an external manufacturer. Pelletessuta is also used as part of a partnership with Maserati for the interiors of its cars.
Other Zegna branded products. Zegna licenses its brand to third parties for the manufacturing and distribution of eyewear, cufflinks and jewelry, beachwear, underwear and fragrances. We purchase these products from our licensees and the licensees pay fees and royalties to us under such licenses. All licensed products are generally sold by us through our DTC channel and by our licensing partners to wholesale customers and to other prestigious retailers.
Eyewear. The Marcolin Group has been our exclusive eyewear licensee since 2013 for the production and worldwide distribution of sunglasses and optical eyewear. The high quality and stylistic standards of Marcolin are combined with the exclusivity and international appeal of our brand, renowned for their “Made in Italy” excellence.
Cufflinks and Jewelry. Tateossian has been our exclusive cufflinks and male jewelry licensee since 1999. Our cufflinks and jewelry products are complementary to our garments and other accessories. Our jewelry products include bracelets, necklaces and rings.
Underwear and Beachwear. Isaseta has been our exclusive licensee for underwear and beachwear since 2016 and 2017, respectively. Our underwear offer consists of t-shirts, boxers, trunks and socks. Our beachwear offer consists of swim boxers, beach towels and vacation essentials like polos and shorts, manufactured with lightweight and technically enhanced materials.
Fragrances. Estée Lauder has been our global exclusive fragrances licensee since 2011. Our signature fragrances, made with exotic oils and herbs coupled with the refined finish of rare ingredients, include a range of signature scents.
All the agreements governing licensed products provide for obligations for our licensees to comply with high quality standards, to ensure that our licensed products are available at selected prestigious points of sale and that they are timely delivered to the distribution network. The agreements have a fixed term and do not contain an automatic renewal mechanism. See “Risk Factors—Risk factors relating to Zegna’s business, strategy and operations—We could be adversely affected if we are unable to negotiate, maintain or renew our license agreements with high end third party brands.”
In addition to licensed products, we also market certain other Zegna branded products specifically targeted to outlet points of sale.
As part of the activities of the Zegna Branded Products product line, Zegna has also entered into strategic partnerships for co-branding projects in order to strengthen the link with other luxury brands and mutually enhance the respective brands’ value. The co-branding agreements set forth the terms for the production of certain selected co-branded products and the relevant co-marketing activities. Co-branded products are sold through our DTC channel or through the monobrand stores and distribution networks of our co-branding partners.
Maserati. We started a long-term and evolving partnership with Maserati in 2013, combining our innovative technologies and century-old traditions to bring both the experience of luxury cars and clothing to a new level of luxury. The collaboration features customized interiors for a special edition of Maserati’s sports cars and a seasonal capsule collection of luxury essentials for the modern man. Zegna and Maserati are currently discussing the extension of their relationship to lines of products with enhanced sustainability features.
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Leica Camera. We started an exclusive collaboration with Leica Camera to bring together two different expressions of innovation and creativity. The partnership with Leica Camera started with the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Fall/Winter 2020 Fashion Show and involves the production of certain leather camera accessories distributed both through our DTC channel and Leica’s monobrand stores.
Fear of God. Launched in Paris in early March 2020, Fear of God exclusively for Ermenegildo Zegna was an innovative capsule collection born from two apparently distant worlds, consisting of a contemporary wardrobe for young men whose lifestyle is an expression of elegance and freedom. The capsule collection proved a successful project, with approximately 88% of revenues generated from sales to new customers. We believe that this new model of collaboration has the potential to attract new customers and increase the appeal of our brands to a younger and more diverse customer base.
Textile Product Line
For the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, the Textile product line generated revenues after eliminations equal to €102,244 thousand, €87,615 thousand and €108,513 thousand, respectively, representing 7.9%, 8.6% and 8.2% of our revenues after eliminations. The Textile product line is engaged in the design, manufacturing and sale of luxury fabrics under the brands Lanificio Zegna, Dondi, Bonotto, Tessitura di Novara and the recently acquired Tessitura Ubertino and Filati Biagioli Modesto, the latter specialized in the production of cashmere yarns. These fabrics are both used for production within Zegna and sold to other global luxury brands and tailors. We believe that the exceptional quality of the textiles used in our garments is one of the principal reasons for the success of Zegna through the years.
The activities of the Textile product line are focused on the research and development of excellence in all of our fabrics, in terms of product quality, style, design, and technical features. We sell our fabrics both to other product lines of the Zegna segment or to the Thom Browne segment, and to third party customers, which include other luxury brands, specialized players or tailoring businesses. We regularly take part in textile fairs and exhibitions to market the products of our Textile product line to the industry’s specialized players. In addition, we have a global network of sales representatives that assist us with the marketing of such products to tailors worldwide.
Lanificio Zegna, the Zegna wool mill founded in 1910 in Trivero, Italy, has been the backbone of Zegna’s success and is renowned internationally for its fine textiles. Three generations of the Zegna family have led textile success by carefully balancing science with nature and craftsmanship with technology. As a result, Lanificio Zegna has pioneered sophisticated men’s fabrics that are lighter, smoother, more refined, and with improved performance and functionality.
Tessitura di Novara (which we acquired in 2009) is specialized in high quality silk weaving. It is a leading producer of pure silk and other high-end natural fabrics of unparalleled quality, combining artisan skills and innovative technologies. Tessitura di Novara’s production facilities are located in Trivero, Italy.
Bonotto (in which we acquired a 60% interest in 2016) is a textile manufacturer based in Molvena, Italy, that was originally founded in 1912. The brand focuses on handcraftsmanship and traditional techniques and is characterized by the creative and experimental dimensions of their fabrics, which take inspiration from the art world. Bonotto is premised on the philosophy of the “slow factory,” which rejects the concepts of industrial standardization and mass production at low cost, in favor of traditional but innovative production techniques allowing to obtain exquisite, precious fabrics.
Dondi (in which we acquired a 65% interest in 2019) is a leader in manufacturing high-quality jersey fabrics for men and women, all Made in Italy. Dondi’s production cycle covers the phases from fabric design to distribution. Dondi counts among its customers not only Zegna’s companies, but also some of the most prestigious brands in the fashion world. Dondi’s production facilities are based in Carpi, Italy.
Tessitura Ubertino (in which we acquired a 60% interest in June 2021) is a boutique weaving mill based in Pratrivero, Italy. Founded in 1981 by Adalgiso Ubertino, Tessitura Ubertino has been creating premium quality fabrics for women, such as tweed and jacquard, for over 30 years and today it supplies fabrics to major fashion brands.
Filati Biagioli Modesto (in which we acquired a 40% interest in July 2021) specializes in the manufacture of carded yarns, integrating the entire process of transformation from fiber to yarn. Founded in the 1960s by Mr. Modesto Biagioli, it carefully selects raw materials (such as cashmere, silk, camel, angora, alpaca, flax and merino wool) that are used for the production of its natural yarns, transformed entirely in Italy and then sold to luxury and fashion brands. In our Consolidated Financial Statements, Filati Biagioli Modesto is accounted for using the equity method, as through our 40% stake we do not exercise control over it.
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Third Party Brands Product Line
For the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, the Third Party Brands product line (formerly known as the Strategic Alliances product line and renamed in the first quarter of 2022) generated revenues after eliminations equal to €74,957 thousand, €82,273 thousand and €91,720 thousand, respectively, representing 5.8%, 8.1% and 6.9% of our revenues after eliminations. The Third Party Brands product line is engaged in the manufacturing and distribution of menswear under the Tom Ford brand, and the supply of apparel for men to Dunhill and Gucci, in each case pursuant to agreements with such third party brands.
Tom Ford. We have acted as an exclusive licensee for the manufacturing and distribution of menswear under the Tom Ford brand since 2004. Under the relevant license agreement, the royalty rates we are required to pay, which also include contributions for advertising, are based on net sales of the licensed products by Tom Ford, subject to certain minimum levels. The existing license agreement with Tom Ford will expire with the completion of the production and distribution activities for the Fall/Winter 2022 collection. Starting with the Spring/Summer 2023 collection, we will act as an exclusive supplier only for certain Tom Ford’s products until at least the Fall/Winter 2025 collection.
Dunhill. We have acted as a manufacturer and supplier of suits, jackets, blazers and formal overcoats under the Dunhill brand since 1998. Under the relevant agreement, we are required to comply with the designs and specifications supplied by Alfred Dunhill Ltd., as well as certain other restrictions relating to intellectual property and confidentiality. The agreement with Alfred Dunhill Ltd. does not provide for an express expiration date.
Gucci. We have acted as a manufacturer and supplier of jackets and formal overcoats, slacks and knitwear (both ready-to-wear and made to measure) under the Gucci brand since 1990. Under the relevant agreement, which was recently renewed, we are required to comply with the designs and specifications supplied by Gucci, as well as certain other restrictions relating to intellectual property, sustainability and confidentiality. Gucci has agreed, on a best effort basis, to place a minimum number of orders for each season for jackets and formal overcoats and granted us an exclusivity for made to measure products. The agreement with Gucci is set to expire upon completion of the Spring/Summer 2028 collection, unless a renewal is agreed between the parties.
Agnona
Until the deconsolidation of the Agnona business in January 2021, we were also active in the luxury womenswear business through the Agnona product line of the Zegna segment. For the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, the Agnona product line generated revenues after eliminations equal to €1,191 thousand, €12,389 thousand and €17,691 thousand, respectively, representing 0.1%, 1.2% and 1.3% of our revenues.
Thom Browne Segment
For the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, the Thom Browne segment generated revenues after eliminations equal to €263,397 thousand, €179,490 thousand and €160,595 thousand, respectively, representing 20.4%, 17.7% and 12.2% of our revenues, respectively, after eliminations.
Thom Browne is a renowned fast-growing luxury brand focused on high-end menswear, womenswear, accessories and childrenswear. The brand was founded by Mr. Thom Browne in 2001 and has since been based in New York. In 2018, we completed the acquisition of 85% of Thom Browne Inc., the holding company of the Thom Browne business. In June 2021, we acquired an additional 5% equity interest in Thom Browne Inc. The Thom Browne business’s growth since the initial acquisition has been remarkable, with revenues increasing from approximately €117 million in 2018 to €264 million in 2021 after eliminations.
Each year Thom Browne offers pre-collections and main collections, organized into two seasons (Fall/ Winter and Spring/Summer) for each of men, women and children.
Mr. Browne started designing clothes for friends and family in the early 2000s, and his popularity as a fashion designer has grown ever since. Thom Browne’s signature line of grey suits redefined the concept of male silhouette, and his collections lean heavily on two main colors: grey and navy. The brand uses the highest quality materials to obtain garments that are beautiful, classic and durable. Its distinctive traits are the absence of any form of a bold logo, the cropped silhouette of the garments and the use of visual identifiers as trademarks, such as the four white horizontal bands (uniquely located on the left upper sleeve and/or upper pant leg) and/or a grosgrain ribbon or tab in White, Red, White, Blue, White (also uniquely positioned on the garments). Each Thom Browne piece is designed to be aesthetically perfect, classic and long-lasting, inspired by Mr. Browne’s philosophy that something beautifully made will never be out of fashion.
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Operations
Our corporate operations are divided among our locations in Trivero and Milan, Italy; Stabio, Switzerland; and New York (where the Thom Browne management is based).
Our primary activities consist in the creation, manufacture and marketing of our pre-collections and main collections, organized into (i) two seasons (Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer) for each of the Zegna brands, plus certain special capsule collections, and (ii) seasonal collections for the Thom Browne segment, divided for men, women and children. Each collection takes approximately 12 months from design to delivery of the finished products to our customers.
Our activities can be subdivided into the following major stages, overseen by different functions in our organization: (i) design; (ii) brand and merchandising; (iii) sales campaign; (iv) procurement; (v) manufacturing; (vi) logistics and inventory management; and (vii) marketing and advertising, as further described below.
The activities of the Textile product line and of the Third Party Brands product line follow their own operational phases and logics.
Design, Brand and Merchandising
Each new collection is created by the Design teams of Zegna and Thom Browne, working in close coordination with their respective Brand and Merchandising team, allowing for a virtuous cross-contamination of ideas. The new collections are therefore created by the designers considering the brand identity, market analyses and seasonal fashion trends.
The Brand and Merchandising team of the Zegna brands is supported by a team of product developers, who also work in close cooperation with the modelers of the Supply Chain teams, for a total of approximately 100 people involved in this production stage. The modelers transform the designers’ sketches first into paper or 3D models, and then into prototypes to assess the look, feel and functionality of the product, and allowing the Brand and Merchandising team to fine-tune the prototypes and the Supply Chain technicians to anticipate any issues that may arise during the manufacturing process. Once the prototypes are approved, a sample collection is produced based on such prototypes. Modeling and prototyping are completed almost entirely in-house and the Design, Brand and Merchandising and Supply Chain teams closely cooperate and share information and suggestions with each other to ensure that the ready-to-wear products, and most leather products and accessories of the Zegna brands, are manufactured on time and consistent with the delivery plans for our collections.
In these phases, Thom Browne’s Design team works closely with a number of trusted long standing external players, coordinated by an internal product development team.
Sales Campaign
The sample collections for the Zegna Branded Products and for Thom Browne, once ready, are presented to wholesale customers and retail buyers at Zegna’s and Thom Browne’s respective showrooms in Milan and New York. The sample collections usually highlight styles and themes and occasions for use, and present a breakdown of products by product category, price range and look. In addition, our showrooms display the full Zegna and Thom Browne offerings across all product categories, simulating the effect of point-of-sale displays. While this process has historically been carried out through in-person meetings, as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic we adopted tools allowing our wholesale customers and retail buyers to view and submit online orders for the sample collections. Similar tools may continue to be used following the lifting of restrictions related to the pandemic as an enhancement of the traditional sales campaign experience.
During the sales campaign, retail buyers place orders by selecting products in accordance with our buying guidelines, in particular with respect to DOSs, in order to ensure the consistency of the products’ assortment in the various stores.
Sales campaigns last approximately two months. During the sales campaign, the Brand and Merchandising and the Supply Chain teams regularly share information on the evolution of the order portfolio to align the initial forecasts for raw material procurement and production planning.
Procurement
Based on our forecasts and the order portfolio, we source the necessary raw materials, trimmings and finished goods through our network of selected suppliers. While the initial purchases are based on forecasts, we adjust and supplement such purchases based on actual orders as the sales campaign progresses.
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Sourcing activities are separately carried out for our two segments, in the Zegna segment for apparel and leather accessories, on the one hand, and for the Textile product line, on the other hand. Trimmings (such as fabrics, buttons, linings, interlinings and zips) are purchased from selected suppliers for both the Zegna and the Thom Browne segments.
Approximately 40% of the raw materials used by the Zegna segment (excluding the Textile product line), such as wool, cotton, leather, silk, linen and cashmere, are purchased through our Textile product line, while the remaining approximately 60% is sourced from other selected suppliers. Approximately 10% of the raw materials used by the Thom Browne segment, such as wool, cotton, leather, silk, linen and cashmere, are purchased through the Zegna segment’s Textile product line, while the remaining approximately 90% is sourced from other selected suppliers.
In 2021, the Zegna segment (excluding the Textile product line) sourced raw materials, trimmings and finished goods from approximately 603 suppliers, of which around 197 provided raw materials, around 234 provided trimmings and around 172 provided finished goods.
In 2021, the Thom Browne segment sourced its raw materials, trimmings and finished goods from approximately 275 suppliers, of which around 194 provided raw materials, around 40 provided trimmings and around 41 provided finished goods. Many of the suppliers have worked with Thom Browne for over 10 years and are considered among the best in the industry, also working with other major luxury brands, including Zegna. The Thom Browne segment and the Zegna segment work closely together to develop custom fabrics made of cotton, wool, and cashmere.
The table below shows Zegna’s total cost for raw materials and consumables, broken down by category for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019.
For the years ended December 31, | ||||||||||||
(€ thousand, except percentages) | 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | |||||||||
Raw materials | (108,442 | ) | (108,130 | ) | (139,965 | ) | ||||||
Finished goods | (161,731 | ) | (130,006 | ) | (141,512 | ) | ||||||
Consumables | (12,951 | ) | (10,909 | ) | (14,067 | ) | ||||||
Change in raw materials, consumables and finished goods | (24,822 | ) | 131 | (9,991 | ) | |||||||
Other | (1,663 | ) | (1,655 | ) | (4,266 | ) | ||||||
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Total cost of raw materials and consumables | (309,609 | ) | (250,569 | ) | (309,801 | ) | ||||||
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Based on the proposition that the very best garments can only come from the best natural resources, we have dedicated our efforts through the years to the research of only the finest raw materials and fabrics. A crucial role in this context is played by the Textile product line, in particular for the Zegna Branded Products product line of the Zegna segment. In order to produce Zegna and Thom Browne branded apparel, we source a portion of our requirements of fabrics from Lanificio, jersey from Dondi and printed fabrics from Bonotto.
Manufacturing
While the sales campaign is still ongoing, we start planning for our manufacturing activities. Production quantities are continuously refined based on the results of the sales campaign allowing us to be efficient. Manufacturing planning is based on several factors, including the type of products to be manufactured (e.g. whether they are seasonal, continuative or made to measure). The manufacturing phase consists of industrializing the samples based on the outcome of the product developers’ research, and recreating them in various sizes and colors for large production.
A distinctive feature of our manufacturing is that “Made in Italy” production represents approximately 70% of the overall production of our products, and approximately 40% of our products are manufactured directly in our facilities.
Zegna Segment
We carefully manage our production, operations and value chain, keeping production know-how and industrial capabilities internally for certain product categories, while relying on a selected network of external long-standing suppliers in Italy and abroad for other product categories. Our sourcing team is committed to carefully selecting all of our suppliers and managing the supply relationships for their entire duration, ensuring the seamless operation of our supply chain. In determining whether to manufacture our products internally or through our network of manufacturers, we take into account a number of factors, such as the ready availability of the required know-how, product quality, lead time and service levels, compliance with the “made in” parameters, safety and overall cost efficiency.
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In-House Manufacturing
Excluding our Textile product line’s production facilities described under “ —Brands, Collections and Products—Zegna Segment—Textile Product Line,” our other production facilities are located in Mendrisio, Switzerland, for jackets, suits, shirts and the Made to Measure products; Verrone, Italy, for knitwear; San Pietro Mosezzo, Italy for formal Zegna branded jackets, suits and products of the Third Party Brands product line; Parma, Italy, for outerwear and leather accessories; and Turkey, for shirts.
Outsourcing
The manufacturing of several finished products is outsourced to external manufacturers. We have established long-term and stable relationships with most of them, who are mainly located in industrial districts in Italy, as well as in Turkey, Portugal, Romania, and, to a lesser extent, in Greater China and the United States. External manufacturers are carefully chosen based mainly on the quality of their work and their well-established relationship with Zegna. Costs, efficiency in planning and production, lead time and “made in” parameters are also key drivers in the selection process.
Contractual relationships with our external manufacturers are generally governed by supply agreements and, in some cases, by purchase orders based on our sourcing needs for each season. The supply agreements with some strategic external manufacturers generally have a term of several seasons. These generally include purchasing commitments on our part and strict quality specifications that our external manufacturers are required to meet.
Depending on the categories of products and other factors such as production lead time, production costs, quantity and ready availability of the relevant know-how, our outsourced products are manufactured using two different approaches: façon manufacturing or “full package” manufacturing. When using the façon manufacturing model, we only outsource to our external manufacturers the confection stage (including cutting, sewing, washing and pressing), while we remain responsible for providing the designs, product specifications and raw materials and coordinating the entire production process throughout the various stages. Conversely, in the full package manufacturing model, we outsource to our external manufacturers the entire production process, including the procurement of raw materials and the coordination of the various production stages, while we purchase the finished products made to our specifications. We usually resort to the façon manufacturing model for our formal garments (such as suits, jackets, blazers and shirts), knitwear and shoes.
Thom Browne Segment
Since the acquisition of Thom Browne by Zegna, the production of Thom Browne’s garments has been mostly outsourced using the full package manufacturing model. First, the Thom Browne collections are designed in-house in New York, then a sample collection is developed in cooperation with external product developers, and subsequently the manufacturing phase is entrusted to Thom Browne’s trusted external manufacturers. These external manufacturers are responsible for procuring the raw materials exclusively from suppliers that have been pre-approved by Thom Browne, for coordinating the entire production process and delivering the finished product.
Approximately 80% of Thom Browne’s external manufacturing is done in Italy and in the United Kingdom, and the remaining 20% is done in Japan. A portion of Thom Browne’s production is also outsourced to Zegna’s Swiss and Italian production facilities, in particular made-to-measure and tailored products, and a minor part of knit products are sourced from manufacturers based in the United Kingdom.
Logistics and Inventory Management
Zegna Segment
Our logistics department is responsible for organizing and managing the distribution of the finished products of the Zegna segment and preparing the documentation required for shipment, as well as the management of our warehouses and product inventory.
Our wholly-owned subsidiary Consitex S.A. is responsible for managing our primary distribution center and product inventory, the shipment of our products, and the logistics of the distribution of the finished products in all regions except for the European Union and the United Kingdom. For the European Union and the United Kingdom, such logistic activities are carried out by our subsidiary Ezi S.p.A. In North America, such activities are carried out through our subsidiary Ermenegildo Zegna Corporation, which manages a local secondary distribution center. In China, such activities are carried out through our subsidiary Zegna (China) Enterprise Management Co., Ltd, which also manages a local secondary distribution center. Regarding the products of our Third Party Brands product line, all logistic activities are carried out by our subsidiary Ezi S.p.A.
With respect to the shipment of our products, third party transportation specialists are engaged to transport goods by road, air or sea, based on factors such as distance to destination and urgency of the shipment.
Thom Browne Segment
Thom Browne’s logistics department and primary distribution center is located in Switzerland and managed by the subsidiary Thom Browne Trading SA., which is responsible for overseeing Thom Browne’s warehouses and product inventory and for organizing and managing the distribution and shipment of the finished products of the Thom Browne segment.
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Thom Browne Trading SA. is responsible for the shipment of products for the Thom Browne segment, and the logistics of the distribution of the finished products in all regions. The Thom Browne segment also has a secondary distribution center in Japan, which is run by its subsidiary Thom Browne Japan Inc., and a secondary distribution center in the United States, which is managed by Thom Browne Inc. directly.
Similarly to the Zegna segment, the logistics department of the Thom Browne segment engages third party transportation specialists to transport goods by road, air or sea, based on factors such as distance to destination and urgency of the shipment.
Marketing and Advertising
Advertising and promotional support is a crucial tool for luxury companies like us to influence purchase selection, enhance the brand recognizability and encourage brand loyalty over time. We invest significant resources in advertising communication and marketing, which include a full set of activities ranging from pure digital and social media marketing initiatives to events like fashion shows, product collaborations and co-marketing projects.
Zegna’s marketing strategy is based on an all-round approach with the customer at its center. We manage the relationship with our customers from an omni-channel perspective, enhancing the interaction between the digital and physical dimensions. Our customers shop across different channels, and through digital tools we directly and regularly inform them about new campaigns, products, and collaborations using original content we develop and produce for a specific project or collection. We aim to provide tailored content and messages to our customers and, through our presence on social media, we translate our craft and products into a narrative aimed at attracting them through inspiration. All our marketing campaigns focus on storytelling to strategically solidify our values in our customers’ minds.
Since 1910, we have inspired men to define their style identity, ensuring their character could be found in every detail of their outfits. The Zegna brand can count many leaders of business, sports, entertainment, design and culture as friends. Some have even become part of our extended family over the years, acting as testimonials for our brands. We also conduct targeted product placement activities on key opinion leaders, celebrities and influencers.
With respect to the Thom Browne segment, Thom Browne presents its seasonal collections in Paris through spectacular, theatrical and conceptual fashion shows during the men’s and women’s fashion weeks. These shows contribute to positioning the brand at the pinnacle of fashion and creativity, are the source of the narrative for each season and help generate significant editorial coverage in fashion, art and culture publications, both on paper and online. This innovative approach makes Thom Browne the brand of choice for a number of VIPs and celebrities worldwide. From highly successful actors and musicians in Korea, to U.S. athletes, actors and musicians of worldwide fame, the brand has proven to have a very strong appeal.
Dressing LeBron James and the entire team of the Cleveland Cavaliers basketball team in a tailored Thom Browne uniform has brought significant visibility of the brand and its iconic products to a global audience. A three-year partnership with FC Barcelona (which included dressing the entire team in Thom Browne suits from 2019 to 2021) played the same role.
The historical customer loyalty enjoyed by the Thom Browne brand is being reinforced through the introduction of new customer relationship management tools and initiatives.
Each of the Zegna segment and the Thom Browne segment have internal teams dedicated to marketing and advertising activities, each following slightly different marketing strategies depending on the brand. To better reach a wide but selected consumer target, we use various communication tools, from organic institutional and products press coverage to media partnerships, a varied media-mix including digital marketing, digital media campaign, print, billboards, direct marketing and ad hoc initiatives in our boutiques where visual merchandising and windows displays are conceived to consistently adhere to the seasonal marketing strategy plan.
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In addition to seasonal fashion shows, January Fall/Winter and June Spring/Summer collection presentations, specific shows and events are organized globally to strengthen our brands’ profiles and positioning and increase awareness on the most recent collections in local markets worldwide. Besides presenting new products, these events are planned to promote a direct involvement of the customers, media, celebrities, influencers, and industry key opinion leaders through exclusive events, as well as to reinforce the popularity of the brand and enhance its image.
Sales Channels
Our sales teams bring our customers into our community, sharing with them our creativity and craft, as well as our story and the journey of each item. These relationships are nurtured in-store with respect to our DTC channel and in our showrooms with respect to our wholesale channel, with the aim to deliver a consistent and unique customer experience.
We distribute and sell our products in over 80 countries worldwide through a well-established network comprised of our DTC and wholesale distribution channels.
Our monobrand presence includes our DOSs (which are divided into boutiques and outlets) and our franchisees’ monobrand stores. Our multi-brand presence includes department stores, specialty stores and multi- brand e-commerce platforms.
Zegna Segment
For the year ended December 31, 2021, about 84% of our revenues from the Zegna Branded Products product line of the Zegna segment were generated through our DTC channel and about 16% was generated through the points of sale operated by our wholesale distribution channel and royalties.
DTC Channel
As of December 31, 2021, we operated 245 DOSs, of which 126 were in APAC, 69 were in EMEA, 37 were in North America and 13 were in Latin America. For the year ended December 31, 2021, the DTC channel generated revenues representing 84% of our revenues from the Zegna Branded Products product line of the Zegna segment. The latest significant store openings and renewals up to December 31, 2021 include Rome (Italy), Boston (United States), Prague (Czech Republic), Shanghai, Chongqing, Ningbo, Wuhan and Shenyang (China) and Bangkok (Thailand). Our DTC channel is distributed throughout the main markets in which we operate. We focus on maintaining a presence in prestigious and strategic locations, and in certain cases we enter into joint ventures with local partners in jurisdictions where Zegna would not be able to operate directly without a local partner or where the presence of a local partner is beneficial due to its knowledge of the local market and regulations. As an example, we have entered into joint ventures in the United Arab Emirates, Vietnam and India.
The aesthetics and customer experience of our DOSs are carefully planned and designed by our Artistic Direction team. Once opened, an internal staff of architects and visual merchandisers who are supported by external professional firms constantly maintain and restyle our DOSs as required. In addition, we have in place specific training programs dedicated to our sales staff, focusing on product knowledge and customer service.
To select the range of products sold in our DOSs, we establish guidelines at the group level based on market potential and the characteristics of the points of sale. Buyers and merchandisers in our regional offices then select the best selection of products in terms of models, materials and color variants.
Our DTC channel also includes an e-commerce shop operated directly through our website www.zegna.com, outlets, concessions within department stores around the world, certain travel retail stores directly operated by us (including those at Linate and Malpensa airports in Milan) and other e-commerce platforms through which we sell directly to our customers (such as TMall Luxury Pavilion, Farfetch and WeChat) and whose sales systems are integrated with Zegna’s sales and warehouse management systems.
Wholesale Channel
As of December 31, 2021, our monobrand distribution network included 195 points of sale operated by our wholesale customers and franchisees, of which 32 were in APAC, 89 were in EMEA, 59 were in North America and 15 were in Latin America. For the year ended December 31, 2021, the wholesale channel, including multibrand stores and royalties, generated revenues representing 16% of our revenues from the Zegna Branded Products product line of the Zegna segment.
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Our wholesale distribution channel has developed through agreements with different types of wholesale customers, including in particular:
• | Franchisees, which operate monobrand points of sale exclusively under the Zegna brands, in exchange for the payment of royalty fees to Zegna based on sales volumes. The franchising agreements governing these relationships typically have a medium term (providing for an automatic renewal or a renegotiation period prior to the term expiry). The contractual arrangements may also provide for minimum purchase obligations by the franchisee, and for the obligation by Zegna and/or the franchisee to invest certain amounts in marketing activities. |
• | Department stores and multibrand specialty stores, which purchase Zegna products for re-sale in their stores, sometimes in specific Zegna branded wall units. The contractual arrangements with this type of customers vary based on the relevant store’s standard terms. |
• | Online multibrand stores. Zegna branded products are also sold via prestigious online multi-brand stores such as SSENSE, Mr. Porter and JD. |
As with our DTC channel, we carefully manage and, if necessary, customize our distribution policies for our wholesale customers.
Within the wholesale distribution channel, duty free and travel retail stores operated by specialized players and located at major airports around the world have an important role, ensuring that the Zegna brands are present in major airports worldwide and in exclusive hotels, both in duty free and duty paid points of sale. These travel retail stores in the wholesale distribution channel are in addition to travel retail stores directly operated by us.
Thom Browne Segment
For the year ended December 31, 2021, about 53% of the Thom Browne segment’s revenues was generated through its DTC channel and about 47% was generated through the points of sale operated by Thom Browne’s wholesale distribution channel and royalties.
DTC Channel
As of December 31, 2021, Thom Browne operated 52 DOSs, of which 38 were in APAC, 9 were in EMEA and 5 were in North America.
Unlike other luxury fashion brands (including Zegna), Thom Browne, leveraging its customers’ awareness of the brand and presence in the main digital channels, has DOS locations of comparatively smaller size, which are usually destination stores with highly-trained staff. This allows for more flexibility in negotiations with landlords and alleviates pressure on rental charges, while Thom Browne still benefits from the inflow of loyal customers. Thom Browne’s strategy puts an emphasis on developing customer relationships rather than on positioning in key streets, while actively working to increase the visibility of its DOSs to attract new customers and to establish specific training programs for its DOS staff in order to ensure a consistent retail experience in the various geographies.
Thom Browne’s DOSs also include an e-commerce shop operated directly through the website www.thombrowne.com and carefully selected directly operated outlet sale locations. The latest significant store openings up to December 31, 2021 include Vancouver (Canada), London (UK), Milan (Italy), Macau, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Qingdao, Xiamen, Changsha and Ningbo (China).
Wholesale Channel
As of December 31, 2021, Thom Browne’s monobrand distribution network included 38 points of sale, of which 30 were in APAC, 5 were in EMEA and 3 were in North America.
The Thom Browne segment’s wholesale distribution channel works similarly to the Zegna segment’s and also consists of a presence in more than 300 wholesale multibrand stores globally, such as those operated by franchisees, department stores and online multi-brand stores for both men and women.
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Intellectual property
Zegna Segment
As of the date of this prospectus, and with an overall trademark portfolio including more than 3,600 registrations, the principal owned trademarks or trade names that we use in the Zegna segment’s business are “Ermenegildo Zegna” and “Zegna”, which we have registered in all the relevant products and services classes and in all of the countries in which we operate in the logo version and/or in the word/standard characters version or in versions which are adapted to various local alphabets or ideographs (e.g., Zegna written in Japanese, Katakana syllabary, in Chinese ideographs or in the Arabic alphabet). We have also registered certain other marks used on our products and in our main marketing projects such as our capsule collections. In connection with the implementation of the rebranding project, we expanded the trademark portfolio to the new logo and signifier.
Additionally, we have a portfolio of more than 700 domain names, including (i) registrations in all the countries in which we operate, (ii) the most common Zegna and Ermenegildo Zegna typos and (iii) early and basic protection for our main business and marketing projects.
Besides trademarks, we invest significant resources in protecting other aspects of our brands’ uniqueness. With more than 500 design and 9 copyright registrations covering several countries including the European Union, China and the United States, every season we select the most relevant and original products, patterns and, to the extent necessary, protect our rights, labels, and take action to protect their design and defend them against counterfeiting. In addition, we own 16 patents and one copyright for engineering work (thanks to special protections available in Italy), which are a result of our solid roots in fabric making and our pioneering efforts to improve performance and functionality in our products.
We devote significant resources to the protection and enhancement of our intellectual property assets and actively monitor the market, offline and online, for infringements or abuses of our trademarks and product designs. We are also active in enforcing our rights against third party infringements. In addition, we monitor third party applications for registration of trademarks that could be confused with our trademarks, and file oppositions against the applications for, or the registration of such trademarks in accordance with the laws and regulations of the relevant jurisdictions and cooperate with competent authorities worldwide to fight the counterfeiting of our products.
Thanks to the long-standing efforts discussed above, judicial and/or administrative decision in countries including China, Turkey, Mexico, Brazil and India have recognized our trademarks as well known and famous, giving Zegna the ability to benefit from a cross-class protection.
For a description of the licenses we grant in our business, please see “—Brands, Collections and Products—Zegna Segment—Third Party Brands Product Line.”
Thom Browne Segment
As at the date of this prospectus, Thom Browne Inc. and its subsidiary Thom Browne Japan, Inc. own or control approximately 300 trademark registrations worldwide, with a number of additional applications pending. The principal owned trademarks or trade names that are used by Thom Browne are THOM BROWNE, a four-band design, a grosgrain ribbon in White, Red, White, Blue, White, and THOM GREY, which have been registered or for which applications for registration have been submitted, in text form or design form, in virtually all the jurisdictions in which Thom Browne operates.
In addition, the design marks shown as location marks, such as a tab on the back of a collar on a shirt or jacket, have been registered, or an application for registration has been submitted, including in the native language of certain important markets.
Thom Browne has also registered certain other marks used on its products and in its main marketing projects and maintains an ongoing program to constantly review and update filings and protections to extend the registrations to classes of goods for which new products are introduced from time to time.
In addition, Thom Browne has a portfolio of domain names, including a number of domain names featuring the “Thom Browne” name, such as ThomBrowne.com, Thombrowne.uk and similar domain names in the jurisdictions in which Thom Browne operates.
Thom Browne devotes significant resources to the protection of its intellectual property assets worldwide through a highly specialized brand protection program. In-house and outside specialists monitor all major markets as well as global social media and websites for misuse of Thom Browne’s intellectual property. To the extent infringements are detected, adequate enforcement steps are taken, including in cooperation with the relevant authorities.
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Employees
As of December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively, we had the following number of employees, divided in the categories of activity and geographic locations as set forth in the tables below.
As at December 31, | ||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
White Collars | 3,814 | 3,897 | 4,095 | |||||||||
Blue Collars | 2,016 | 2,201 | 2,132 | |||||||||
Temporary employees | 219 | 151 | 313 | |||||||||
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| |||||||
Total | 6,049 | 6,249 | 6,540 |
As at December 31, | ||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
EMEA | 3,957 | 4,217 | 4,347 | |||||||||
North America | 369 | 327 | 366 | |||||||||
Latin America | 117 | 125 | 139 | |||||||||
APAC | 1,606 | 1,580 | 1,688 | |||||||||
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| |||||||
Total | 6,049 | 6,249 | 6,540 |
Historically, we have had good labor relationships with our employees and we are committed to maintaining a positive and constructive relationship with them. In the past, we have not experienced any material job action or labor stoppage that has had a material impact on our business.
While production was suspended at our manufacturing and logistics facilities and our stores were temporarily closed in response to the COVID-19 pandemic, we resorted to the furlough of approximately 75% of our workforce in Italy and Switzerland, as well as temporary layoffs and salary reductions from mid-March 2020 to the mid-second quarter of 2020. During 2021 we resorted to the furlough for approximately 10% of the total working hours in Italy and Switzerland, which involved approximately 65% of the total workforce in these countries, mainly during the initial part of the year. As of the date of this prospectus, all our manufacturing and logistics facilities and the majority of our stores (with the exception of certain of our DOSs in the Greater China Region) have re-opened and virtually all our furloughed employees have returned to work.
Research and Development
Our competitiveness depends on, among other things, our ability to anticipate trends and to identify and respond to new and changing consumer preferences. We therefore devote significant resources to various research and development activities to design, create and develop new products for our collections. As of the date of this prospectus, approximately 280 of our employees were involved in our research and development activities across the Zegna and Thom Browne segments.
Our research and development activities mainly relate to the development of new patterns and designs for our fabrics, the research of innovative and technological materials with specific features, the design, modeling and development of new products and the creation of prototypes.
In recent years, our research and development efforts have focused on the reduction of the overall number of new products launched, with a shift towards the activities for the creation of iconic products characterized by high visibility and superior growth, the creation and launch of ad hoc capsule collections, and significant resources devoted to the development of products for our continuative products (which are generally sold across seasons with minimal style changes).
Regulatory Environment
We are required to comply with the laws and regulations applying to our products and operations in the various jurisdictions in which we operate, particularly in relation to the protection of intellectual property rights, competition, product safety, packaging and labeling, import and processing of certain raw materials and finished goods, data protection, limits on cash payments, worker health and safety, environment and economic sanctions. We also use certain rare raw materials, such as vicuña yarns, which are only available in a very limited quantity and subject to strict export and processing regulations. Virtually all of our imported products are
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subject to custom duties and other taxes, which may impact the price of such products. We maintain compliance procedures and policies to assist in managing our import and export activities and ensure compliance with the laws and regulations of the jurisdictions where we operate.
Property, Plant and Equipment
We operate through manufacturing facilities, corporate offices, showrooms, warehouses, stores, land and other buildings around the world, which are in part owned by us and in part leased from third parties.
Part of the real estate assets used in Zegna’s business operations is owned by EZ Real Estate S.r.l. (“EZ Real Estate”), a former subsidiary of Zegna which was demerged on November 1, 2021 as part of the Disposition, or by its subsidiaries. Such real estate assets include buildings hosting manufacturing facilities, corporate offices, showrooms, warehouses, land and other buildings, including our main manufacturing plants and offices in Italy (such as Zegna’s headquarter offices in Milan, the manufacturing facilities in Parma, San Pietro Mosezzo, Verrone and Oleggio, as well as part of the building located in Valdilana partly occupied by Zegna) and Switzerland (including the offices in Stabio and the manufacturing plant in Mendrisio) and certain Zegna stores, namely in Sandigliano and Oleggio (Italy) and London (United Kingdom). In addition, Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna e Figli S.p.A. (“Lanificio”) owned part of our industrial building located in Valdilana (Italy), which was also demerged on November 1, 2021 as part of the Disposition. Most of the real estate properties directly or indirectly owned by EZ Real Estate or its subsidiaries are, and will continue to be, leased to us or our subsidiaries. Following the Disposition, we will continue to pay rent to EZ Real Estate or its relevant subsidiaries under the relevant lease agreements. With respect to Lanificio’s real estate assets that form part of the Disposition, appropriate arrangements have been put in place, effective as of November 1, 2021, to ensure the continued use by Zegna of such properties at market terms.
We also own certain real estate assets (manufacturing facilities, warehouses and offices) used by Cappellificio Cervo in Sagliano Micca (Italy), Bonotto in Molvena di Colceresa (Italy) and Dondi in Fossoli di Carpi (Italy) and Novi di Modena (Italy).
Our manufacturing facilities currently have capacity to increase production volumes in case necessary to meet higher demand.
The following table sets forth information relating to owned real estate assets used in the conduct of our business as of the date of this prospectus.
Location | Use | Approximate Square Meters | ||
Italy, Sagliano Micca, Via della Libertà 16 | Factory, storage and offices | 5,500 | ||
Italy, Molvena di Colceresa, Via dell’Artigianato | Factory, storage and offices | 10,000 | ||
Italy, Fossoli di Carpi, Italy, via Budrione Migliarina 2/A | Factory, storage and offices | 11,470 | ||
Italy, Novi di Modena, fraz. Rovereto sul Secchia, via Foscolo 11 | Factory, storage and offices | 975 |
In addition, we lease space from third-parties, mainly related to our DOSs and other direct points of sale around the world, but also to warehouses, offices and housing for our personnel. As of December 31, 2021, we directly operated 297 DOSs, totaling approximately 80,000 square meters of gross area, pursuant to lease agreements.
The total carrying value of our property, plant and equipment as of December 31, 2021 was €111,474 thousand compared to €244,127 thousand as of December 31, 2020, with the decrease mainly reflecting the Disposition as described above.
For information on our principal expenditures on property, plant and equipment, see “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations—Operating and Financial Review and Prospects —Liquidity and Capital Resources—Capital Expenditure.”
Legal Proceedings
We are party to civil and administrative proceedings (including tax audits) and to legal actions in the normal course of our business, including with respect to lease agreements, labor matters and intellectual property matters. Adverse decisions in one or more of these proceedings could require us to pay substantial damages. Litigation is subject to many uncertainties, and the outcome of individual matters is not predictable with assurance. An accrual is established in connection with pending or threatened litigation if a loss is probable and a reliable estimate can be made. For information regarding provisions made for the legal proceedings we are a party to, please refer to Note 36 (Provisions for risks and charges) to the Consolidated Financial Statements.
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On June 28, 2021 adidas filed a lawsuit in the Southern District of New York for, among others, trademark infringement, unfair competition, dilution and various state claims, in connection with Thom Browne’s five color grosgrain ribbon and the four bands on sleeves and pants on its sporting goods, sportswear and athletic wear. adidas claims these designs allegedly infringe the three stripe marks of adidas. As the discovery phase of the trial progresses, Thom Browne, Inc. filed a motion to dismiss adidas’s claims, which remains pending. Thereafter, Thom Browne, Inc. has also initiated cancellation proceedings against a number of adidas marks registered in the European Union, alleging that the marks lack distinction. The parties have submitted various pleadings in such proceedings, which remain pending. Thom Browne intends to vigorously defend its position in these proceedings.
On February 17, 2022, the New York Supreme Court in the City of New York issued a judgment dismissing Zegna’s claims seeking rescission of a lease of premises in New York City. The trial court found that the lease remains in full force and effect and ordered Zegna to pay the amount requested by the landlord as unpaid rent and fees. A substantial portion of the amount of the court’s judgment is covered by an accrual recorded in Zegna’s balance sheet. On March 10, 2022, the landlord filed a complaint requesting Zegna to pay the unpaid rent and fees accrued until March 2022. Zegna intends to appeal against the judgment and to oppose the landlord’s complaint. Following the latest developments, Zegna accrued a provision of Euro 28,254 thousand on its balance sheet as of December 31, 2021. The impact on the statement of profit and loss for the year ended December 31, 2021 is Euro 12,192 thousand in addition to the pre-existing provision (see Note 36 to the Consolidated Financial Statements).
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MANAGEMENT’S DISCUSSION AND ANALYSIS OF FINANCIAL CONDITION AND RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
The following discussion of our financial condition and results of operations should be read together with the rest of this document, including the information included under “Note on Presentation,” “Business” and the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this document. This discussion includes forward-looking statements and involves numerous risks and uncertainties, including, but not limited to, those described under “Cautionary Note Regarding Forward-Looking Statements” and “Risk Factors”. Actual results may differ materially from those contained in any forward looking statements.
Overview
Zegna is a leading global luxury group, internationally recognized for the distinctive heritage of craftsmanship, quality and design associated with its Zegna and Thom Browne brands and the noble fabrics and fibers of its in-house luxury textile and knitwear business. Since its foundation in 1910, Zegna has expanded beyond luxury textile production to ready-to-wear products and accessories to become a highly recognized luxury lifestyle group. Zegna designs, manufactures, markets and distributes luxury menswear, footwear, leather goods and other accessories under the Zegna and the Thom Browne brands, and luxury womenswear and childrenswear under the Thom Browne brand. Zegna’s product range is complemented by eyewear, cufflinks and jewelry, watches, underwear and beachwear manufactured by third parties under licenses. Zegna’s business covers the entire value chain as a result of its design, manufacturing and distribution business. Zegna’s goal is to provide customers with excellent products that reflect its tradition of fine craftsmanship with exclusive design content and with a style that preserves the exceptional manufacturing quality that Zegna is known for, through the sourcing of superior raw materials, the careful finish of each piece, and the way they are delivered to customers. In 2021, 2020 and 2019, Zegna recorded revenues of €1,292,402 thousand, €1,014,733 thousand and €1,321,327 thousand, respectively, (Loss)/Profit for the year of (€127,661) thousand, (€46,540) thousand and €25,439 thousand, respectively, Adjusted EBIT of €149,115 thousand, €20,013 thousand and €107,274 thousand, respectively, and Adjusted Profit/(Loss) of €75,322 thousand, (€4,752) thousand and €43,047 thousand, respectively. For additional information relating to Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted Profit/(Loss), which are non-IFRS measures, including a reconciliation of Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted Profit/(Loss) to profit/(loss), see “—Non-IFRS Financial Measures.”
Zegna operates its business in two segments: the Zegna segment (comprising three product lines: Zegna Branded Products, Textile and Third Party Brands (previously referred to as Strategic Alliances)) and the Thom Browne segment.
With respect to the Zegna Branded Products product line and the Thom Browne segment, Zegna operates via its direct-to-consumer (DTC) channel worldwide through a network of 245 Zegna and 52 Thom Browne DOSs as of December 31, 2021 (255 Zegna DOSs (prior to the transformation of 17 DOSs in Korea into franchised stores) and 38 Thom Browne DOSs as of December 31, 2020). Zegna also distributes its products worldwide through monobrand or multibrand points of sale operated by its wholesale customers. Taking into account both the DTC channel and the wholesale distribution channel, Zegna is present in over 80 countries worldwide. Its DTC channel includes boutiques and outlets, as well as concessions in department stores and multibrand e-commerce marketplaces. In the wholesale channel, Zegna sells its products to franchisees, department stores, multibrand specialty stores and online multi-brand e-tailers.
The activities of the Textile and Third Party Brands product lines follow their own operational phases and logics. Through the Textile product line, Zegna sells fabrics both to other product lines of the Zegna segment or to the Thom Browne segment, as well as to third party customers. Through the Third Party Brands product line, Zegna is engaged in the manufacturing and distribution or the supply of menswear to other fashion brands.
Trends, Uncertainties and Opportunities
The main trends, uncertainties and opportunities affecting Zegna are summarized below:
The Business Combination
On July 18, 2021, Zegna, IIAC and Zegna Merger Sub signed a business combination agreement that contemplated a series of transactions, which were ultimately completed through the Business Combination on December 17, 2021.
On November 1, 2021, Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A. completed the disposition of certain of its businesses through the statutory demerger under Italian law to a new company owned by its existing shareholders. The Disposition included, inter alia, Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A.’s real estate business, consisting of its former subsidiary EZ Real Estate, which directly and indirectly holds substantially all of the real estate assets formerly owned by the Zegna Group, as well as certain properties previously owned by Lanificio, and its 10% equity interest in Elah Dufour S.p.A. Most of the real estate properties directly or indirectly owned by EZ Real Estate were, and continue to be, leased to Zegna also following the Disposition.
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The Business Combination was completed through a series of transactions executed on December 17, 2021, including a cross-border conversion whereby Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia S.p.A., by means of the execution of a Dutch notarial deed of cross-border conversion and amendment of its articles of association, converted into a Dutch public limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap) and transferred its legal seat from Italy to the Netherlands and amended its articles of association, upon which the Company changed its name to Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.
Following the completion of the Business Combination, on December 20, 2021, Zegna’s ordinary shares and public warrants began trading on the NYSE under the symbols “ZGN” and “ZGN WS”, respectively.
For additional information relating to the Business Combination please see Note 1 - General Information to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
Impact of the COVID-19 pandemic
Zegna’s operations have been, and continue to be, affected by the ongoing outbreak of COVID-19. The global spread of COVID-19 has led to governments around the world mandating, to various degrees and at various times, restrictive measures to contain the pandemic, including quarantine, social distancing, “shelter in place” or similar orders, travel restrictions and suspension of non-essential business activities. The COVID-19 pandemic has caused significant disruption to the global economy, consumer spending and behavior, tourism, supply chains and financial markets, leading to a global economic slowdown and a severe recession in several of the markets in which Zegna operates, which may persist even after restrictions are lifted.
In connection with the COVID-19 pandemic and related government measures, Zegna experienced suspension or slowdown of production at its manufacturing and logistics facilities in 2020 and 2021, as well as delays in deliveries of raw materials from suppliers and of deliveries of products to wholesale customers, temporary closures of its DOSs and its distribution partners’ stores, with a material adverse effect on Zegna’s revenues and results from operations, particularly in 2020.
The COVID-19 pandemic resulted in a significant decline in the demand for Zegna’s products in 2020, including the Textile product line, whose customers, which are mainly businesses operating in the fashion apparel industry, reduced orders. Despite the negative impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on Zegna’s operations and the demand for Zegna’s products, primarily in 2020, the remote selling and retail e-commerce platforms continued to operate and Zegna implemented solutions to allow online purchases by wholesale customers. Zegna’s business has experienced a steady recovery in 2021 from the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, although certain restrictions remain in some of the markets where Zegna operates.
During the period in which Zegna’s manufacturing facilities were closed in 2020 (from mid-March 2020 to mid-May 2020), Zegna purchased some of its raw materials and finished goods from suppliers pursuant to commitments entered into prior to the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic when demand was higher, which had an adverse impact on results in 2020. During 2020, Zegna took several actions to reduce cash outflows and secure its liquidity and financial position, including (i) the temporary suspension of several capital expenditure programs (including for store renewals), (ii) delaying non-essential spending, and (iii) the sale of certain financial assets that were held as investments. In 2020 Zegna also took measures, the majority of which were reversed in 2021, to reduce costs and preserve profitability, including (i) the renegotiation of rent payable under lease agreements, (ii) temporary lay-offs as permitted by local emergency legislation, (iii) accessing government support measures, (iv) salary and bonus cuts to directors and senior managers, and (v) significant reductions to marketing, travel and other expenses.
The COVID-19 pandemic continues to impact the global economy. Although 2021 was characterized by steady recovery for Zegna’s business and the overall COVID-19 situation appears to have improved in countries that have rolled out vaccination campaigns, the extent to which COVID-19 will impact its business, financial position, results of operations and cash flows in the future remains highly uncertain and cannot be accurately predicted at this time. Additionally, in the first months of 2022 Zegna experienced minor delays in production in certain countries where a significant number of its and its suppliers’ employees had to stay at home after becoming infected with COVID-19. Since March 2022, due to a new wave of the virus in certain parts of the Greater China Region and the resulting lockdown restrictions, Zegna has closed certain DOSs in the Greater China Region, and DOSs that have remained open have experienced significantly lower customer traffic.
See also “Risk Factors—We are subject to risks related to the COVID-19 pandemic or similar public health crises that may materially and adversely affect our business”.
Fluctuations in exchange rates
A large portion of Zegna’s operations is in international markets outside the Eurozone, where Zegna records revenues and expenses in various currencies other than the Euro, which is the Group’s functional currency, mainly the Chinese Renminbi and the U.S. Dollar, as well as various other currencies. While Zegna’s revenues are denominated mainly in the local currencies of the
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respective markets (a share of revenues were generated in currencies other than the Euro corresponding to 70% in 2021, 66% in 2020 and 66% in 2019), a significant portion of its costs are denominated in Euro, mainly related to production and to its corporate headquarters and related functions. As a result, Zegna is affected by fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates through (i) the translation of foreign currency financial statements into Euro upon consolidation of its subsidiaries with functional currencies other than Euro (translation impact), and (ii) transactions by Zegna entities in currencies other than their own functional currencies (transaction impact). In general, an appreciation of the Chinese Renminbi, U.S. Dollar or the other currencies in which Zegna operates against the Euro would positively impact Zegna’s revenues and results of operations, while a depreciation in those other currencies would have a negative impact.
Zegna seeks to mitigate the effects of its currency exposure by entering into derivative contracts (generally forward contracts for the sale of foreign currencies) in order to either fix exchange rates in advance, or to determine a predefined range of exchange rates at a future date. For the Zegna Branded Products and Textile product lines, Zegna initially defines sales prices in Euro, then sets the corresponding prices in other currencies by applying exchange rates selected by management based on reasonable expectations and assumptions. Forward sales contracts are made when the seasonal price lists in a given currency are set in order to mitigate the impact of any divergence between actual exchange rates and the expected exchange rates used by management, based on estimated revenues and setting the planned date of payment by customers as the date when the hedge contract matures. Additional hedging transactions may be entered into during the relevant season depending on actual developments in exchange rates. While Zegna has historically taken the foregoing measures with respect to the Zegna segment, it is implementing similar policies also in the Thom Browne segment, which has recently become more exposed to currency impact as it expands into international markets. For additional information on Zegna’s policies to manage its foreign currency exposure see “—Qualitative and Quantitative Information on Financial Risks”.
The following table sets forth Zegna’s revenues by currency of origin for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019.
(Euro thousands) | For the years ended December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
Euro | 387,251 | 344,288 | 447,231 | |||||||||
Chinese Renminbi | 501,824 | 375,359 | 342,962 | |||||||||
U.S. Dollar | 185,944 | 114,065 | 206,536 | |||||||||
Japanese Yen | 49,966 | 48,605 | 73,490 | |||||||||
Pound Sterling | 30,101 | 28,826 | 50,551 | |||||||||
Hong Kong Dollar | 17,168 | 27,182 | 72,472 | |||||||||
United Arab Emirates Dirham | 31,534 | 13,614 | 18,180 | |||||||||
Other currencies | 88,614 | 62,794 | 109,905 | |||||||||
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Total | 1,292,402 | 1,014,733 | 1,321,327 | |||||||||
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The table below shows the exchange rates compared to the Euro of the main foreign currencies used by the Group.
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
At December 31 | Average | At December 31 | Average | At December 31 | Average | |||||||||||||||||||
U.S. Dollar | 1.133 | 1.183 | 1.227 | 1.142 | 1.123 | 1.119 | ||||||||||||||||||
Swiss Franc | 1.033 | 1.081 | 1.080 | 1.070 | 1.085 | 1.113 | ||||||||||||||||||
Chinese Renminbi | 7.195 | 7.629 | 8.023 | 7.874 | 7.821 | 7.735 | ||||||||||||||||||
Pound Sterling | 0.840 | 0.860 | 0.899 | 0.890 | 0.851 | 0.878 | ||||||||||||||||||
Hong Kong Dollar | 8.833 | 9.193 | 9.514 | 8.857 | 8.747 | 8.772 | ||||||||||||||||||
Singapore Dollar | 1.528 | 1.589 | 1.622 | 1.574 | 1.511 | 1.527 | ||||||||||||||||||
United Arab Emirates Dirham | 4.160 | 4.344 | 4.507 | 4.194 | 4.126 | 4.111 | ||||||||||||||||||
Japanese Yen | 130.380 | 129.877 | 126.490 | 121.832 | 121.940 | 122.021 |
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General economic conditions, macro events and international tourism
Purchases of Zegna’s products tend to be discretionary and therefore sales may be highly volatile, particularly during periods of economic slowdown, and are influenced by, among other factors, general economic conditions, consumer confidence and disposable consumer income, as well as levels of international travel and tourism. A substantial amount of Zegna’s sales is generated by customers who purchase products while traveling. In times of economic growth, consumers tend to have more disposable income and travel more frequently, which may increase demand for Zegna’s products. Conversely, when economic growth is stagnant or negative, consumers may delay or avoid discretionary spending, which may result in reduced demand for Zegna’s products.
In addition to adverse economic conditions, global political developments, social and geopolitical sources of unrest, natural disasters, travel restrictions imposed by governments (such as those relating to the COVID-19 pandemic) and other events may also result in a shift in travel patterns or a decline in travel volumes, which have had in the past, and may have in the future, an adverse effect on Zegna’s business, financial position, results of operations and cash flows.
Significant inflationary pressures appeared in 2021 in many of the markets in which we operate and this trend has continued in early 2022. Although there were no material effects on our results of operations in 2021 from the recent rise in inflation affecting certain goods and services, management is carefully monitoring inflation, as well as any changes to interest rates that central banks may enact in attempts to combat inflation, to appropriately address the potential impacts on our operating costs and financial expenses in the future
Due to the ongoing conflict in Ukraine and resulting geopolitical tensions, many governments around the world, including those of the United States, the European Union, Japan and other jurisdictions, have recently announced the imposition of a variety of sanctions on certain industry and parties in Russia and the Ukrainian regions of Donetsk and Luhansk, as well as enhanced export controls on certain industries and products and the exclusion of certain Russian financial institutions from the SWIFT system. On March 11, 2022, the President of the United States issued an executive order prohibiting exports to Russia of luxury goods (including, inter alia, apparel, footwear and certain accessories with a per unit wholesale price of $1,000 or more). Shortly thereafter, on March 15, 2022, the Council of the European Union imposed new sanctions on Russia prohibiting the export of luxury goods having a value in excess of €300 per item (including clothing, footwear, leather and fashion accessories). These and any additional sanctions and export controls, or other measures taken, as well as any counterresponses by the governments of Russia or other jurisdictions, could adversely affect, directly or indirectly, our supply chain, with negative implications on the prices and availability of raw materials, and our customers, as well as the global financial markets and financial services industry. Following the escalation of the conflict in Ukraine we immediately suspended production of products for the Fall/Winter 2022 collection ordered by our Russian franchisees and distributors and it is uncertain whether and when we will resume such production. The Russian market represented 1.5%, 2.0% and 1.5% of our revenues in 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively.
Furthermore, the political unrest in Hong Kong that started in 2019 has impacted, and may continue to impact, our business, and we recognized impairment of €14,824 thousand from 2019 to 2021, of which €4,335 thousand in 2021, €3,631 thousand in 2020 and €6,858 thousand in 2019, primarily relating to DOSs.
Fluctuations in the price of raw materials
Zegna’s costs for raw materials are significantly impacted by fluctuations in the price of certain raw materials, including merino wool, cotton, cashmere, silk and rare raw materials such as vicuña. Price fluctuations in these raw materials may be driven by several factors, including both natural elements (e.g., weather conditions and diseases of livestock) and trade restrictions, tariffs and similar government measures which may limit or make more expensive the import or export of these raw materials. See also “–General economic conditions, macro events and international tourism” above.
The table below sets forth Zegna’s cost of raw materials and consumables for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019.
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | (Increase)/Decrease | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | As a % of Revenues | 2020 | As a % of Revenues | 2019 | As a % of Revenues | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Raw materials | (108,442 | ) | (8.4 | %) | (108,130 | ) | (10.7 | %) | (139,965 | ) | (10.6 | %) | (312 | ) | (0.3 | %) | 31,835 | 22.7 | % | |||||||||||||||||||||
Finished goods | (161,731 | ) | (12.5 | %) | (130,006 | ) | (12.8 | %) | (141,512 | ) | (10.7 | %) | (31,725 | ) | (24.4 | %) | 11,506 | 8.1 | % |
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Consumables | (12,951 | ) | (1.0 | %) | (10,909 | ) | (1.1 | %) | (14,067 | ) | (1.1 | %) | (2,042 | ) | (18.7 | %) | 3,158 | 22.4 | % | |||||||||||||||||||||
Change in raw materials, consumables and finished goods | (24,822 | ) | (1.9 | %) | 131 | 0.0 | % | (9,991 | ) | (0.8 | %) | (24,953 | ) | n.m. | (*) | 10,122 | 101.3 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Other | (1,663 | ) | (0.1 | %) | (1,655 | ) | (0.2 | %) | (4,266 | ) | (0.3 | %) | (8 | ) | (0.5 | %) | 2,611 | 61.2 | % | |||||||||||||||||||||
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Total cost of raw materials and consumables | (309,609 | ) | (24.0 | %) | (250,569 | ) | (24.7 | %) | (309,801 | ) | (23.4 | %) | (59,040 | ) | (23.6 | %) | 59,232 | 19.1 | % |
(*) | Throughout this section “n.m.” means not meaningful. |
The price of wool has been subject to significant fluctuations in recent years. For example, the average price of Australian merino wool more than doubled from 2016 to 2018, declined significantly in the 2019-2020 period and has increased again in 2021 and early 2022, although current prices remain below 2018 levels. Zegna’s management expects the price of wool to remain volatile and the availability of high-quality wool to continue to swing in the future. Zegna seeks to mitigate the risk of increases in the price of wool through a procurement policy that tends to spread purchases of wool over time and in advance of actual requirements in order to average out the purchasing costs. Nevertheless, Zegna remains exposed to fluctuations in the price of wool and other raw materials, including cashmere, for which the price rose significantly through 2021. As noted above, although there were no material effects on our results of operations in 2021 from the recent rise in inflation in certain goods and services, management is carefully monitoring inflation to appropriately address the potential impacts on our operating costs in the future.
Disposition of certain businesses
On November 1, 2021, Zegna completed the disposition by disposing of certain of its businesses, through the statutory demerger under Italian law to a new company owned by its existing shareholders of (i) its real estate business, consisting of Zegna’s former subsidiary EZ Real Estate, which directly and indirectly holds substantially all of the real estate assets formerly owned by the Zegna group, as well as certain properties previously owned by Lanificio, including part of Lanificio’s industrial building located in Valdilana and Lanificio’s hydroelectric plants, and (ii) its 10% equity interest in Elah Dufour S.p.A ((i) and (ii) are collectively referred to as the “Demerger”). On January 14, 2021, Zegna sold 70% of its equity stake in Agnona S.r.l. (“Agnona”) to a related party for consideration of €1 and as a result Agnona was deconsolidated from the start of the year. The Group subsequently disposed of the remaining 30% stake in Agnona in two tranches in September and October 2021 for total consideration of Euro 500 thousand (the disposition of the stake in Agnona, together with the Demerger, are referred to as the “Disposition”, and the foregoing divested businesses are referred to collectively as the “Disposed Businesses”).
Zegna’s consolidated revenues for the years 2021, 2020 and 2019 were €1,292,402 thousand, €1,014,733 thousand and €1,321,327 thousand, respectively, of which nil, €9,805 thousand and €15,545 thousand, respectively, related to the Disposed Businesses (primarily Agnona). The majority of the real estate properties directly or indirectly owned by EZ Real Estate are, and will continue to be, leased to Zegna. Such real estate assets leased to Zegna include buildings hosting the main manufacturing plants and offices of the Zegna Group in Italy (including Zegna’s headquarter offices in Milan, the manufacturing facilities in Parma, San Pietro Mosezzo and Oleggio, as well as part of the building located in Valdilana partly occupied by Zegna) and Switzerland (including the offices in Stabio and the manufacturing plant in Mendrisio) as well as certain Zegna stores in Sandigliano and Oleggio (Italy) and London (United Kingdom). Following the Disposition, Zegna continues to pay rent to EZ Real Estate or its relevant subsidiaries under the relevant lease agreements. With respect to Lanificio’s real estate assets that form part of the Disposition, appropriate arrangements have been put in place to ensure the continued use by Zegna of such properties at market terms.
The Disposed Businesses also include Oasi Zegna, a freely accessible natural reserve in Piemonte established by Zegna in 1993 with the goal of fostering a positive relationship with the local territory and the community by creating a lasting environment for the public to enjoy. Following the Disposition and to strengthen the mutually beneficial and inspiring relationship between Zegna and Oasi Zegna, Zegna has entered into an arrangement whereby Oasi Zegna will provide licensing, marketing and other sustainability-related services.
Tax obligations and changes in tax laws, estimates, treaties and regulations
Zegna is subject to taxation in Italy, the USA and China, as well as various other jurisdictions, with the applicable tax rates varying by jurisdiction. As a result, Zegna’s overall effective tax rate is affected by the proportion of earnings from the various tax jurisdictions and by the ability to generate sufficient and suitable future taxable profits from which the reversal of any deferred tax assets can be deducted. Zegna recognizes tax expenses in multiple tax jurisdictions based on i) the estimates of taxable income, ii) the
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required reserves for uncertain tax positions, iii) deductible temporary differences, tax loss carry-forwards and tax credits to the extent that their future offset is probable, iv) withholding taxes on unremitted earnings, and v) on the way in which Zegna intends to recover or settle the carrying amount of deferred tax assets and liabilities. At any time, there are multiple tax years that are subject to examinations by various tax authorities.
Additionally, Zegna is subject to duties applicable to the importation of our products in various countries in which we operate, which may impact the cost of such products. In addition, countries to which we ship our products may impose safeguard quotas to limit the quantity of products that may be imported. We rely on free trade agreements and other supply chain initiatives in order to maximize efficiencies relating to the importation of our products.
Acquisitions
On June 4, 2021, Zegna acquired a 60% equity interest in Tessitura Ubertino S.r.l. (“Tessitura Ubertino”), a company specialized in the textile business, to further strengthen Zegna’s verticalization strategy, for cash consideration of approximately €7,050 thousand, including a €1,170 thousand earn-out payment that will be payable 50% in 2022 and 50% in 2023 subject to Tessitura Ubertino achieving certain predetermined operating performance targets for the years 2021 and 2022, respectively. Tessitura Ubertino was consolidated in Zegna’s consolidated financial statements starting on June 4, 2021, and contributed revenues of €5,625 thousand and profit for the year of €561 thousand to the Group from that date until December 31, 2021.
On July 19, 2019, Zegna acquired a 65% equity interest in Gruppo Dondi S.p.A. (“Dondi”), a company specialized in the manufacturing of high-end jersey, to further strengthen Zegna’s verticalization strategy, for cash consideration of approximately €18,075 thousand (including certain earn-out payments). Dondi was consolidated in Zegna’s consolidated financial statements starting from September 1, 2019. In 2021 the Group paid contingent consideration of €710 thousand based on the achievement of certain predetermined performance targets by Dondi.
For additional information relating to acquisitions made by Zegna subsequent to December 31, 2021 please refer to the section “—Recent developments”.
Seasonality
The luxury apparel market in which Zegna operates is subject to seasonal fluctuations in sales. Zegna’s sales are usually higher in the months of the year in which wholesale customers concentrate their purchases. For example, deliveries of seasonal goods to wholesale customers tend to concentrate from November to February for the Spring/Summer collection and from June to September for the Fall/Winter collection. With regards to retail sales at Zegna’s DOSs, sales tend to be higher in the last quarter of the year, driven by the holiday shopping season and in January and February, in correspondence with the Chinese New Year celebrations. However, several events may affect retail sales, including adverse weather conditions or other macroeconomic and external events (including the COVID-19 pandemic).
Operating costs, in contrast, do not generally experience significant seasonal fluctuations, except for certain increases in the months of November and December due to the variable costs associated with sales commissions and leases.
As a result of the foregoing, the financial results for interim periods may not be indicative of results for the entire fiscal year. Zegna expects such seasonal trends to continue.
COVID-19-Rent Reductions
In May 2020 and March 2021, the IASB issued an amendments to IFRS 16 - Leases (“IFRS 16”) exempting lessees from determining whether COVID-19-related rent concessions are lease modifications, thereby providing a practical expedient to immediately recognize the entire economic benefit of such rental discounts in the statement of profit and loss. Zegna adopted the amendments effective January 1, 2020 and elected not to treat COVID-19 related rent concessions as lease modifications. For the year ended December 31, 2021 and 2020, Zegna recognized lease expenses net of rent reductions of €12,877 thousand and €24,931 thousand, respectively, received as a result of the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Results of Operations
For the year ended December 31, 2021, compared with the year ended December 31, 2020
The following is a discussion of Zegna’s results of operations for the year ended December 31, 2021 as compared to the year ended December 31, 2020, and for the year ended December 31, 2020 as compared to the year ended December 31, 2019.
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(Euro thousands) | For the years ended December 31, | |||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | Percentage of revenues | 2020 | Percentage of revenues | 2019 | Percentage of revenues | |||||||||||||||||||
Revenues | 1,292,402 | 100.0 | % | 1,014,733 | 100.0 | % | 1,321,327 | 100.0 | % | |||||||||||||||
Other income | 8,260 | 0.6 | % | 5,373 | 0.5 | % | 7,873 | 0.6 | % | |||||||||||||||
Cost of raw materials and consumables | (309,609 | ) | (24.0 | )% | (250,569 | ) | (24.7 | )% | (309,801 | ) | (23.4 | )% | ||||||||||||
Purchased, outsourced and other costs | (353,629 | ) | (27.4 | )% | (286,926 | ) | (28.3 | )% | (371,697 | ) | (28.1 | )% | ||||||||||||
Personnel costs | (367,762 | ) | (28.5 | )% | (282,659 | ) | (27.9 | )% | (331,944 | ) | (25.1 | )% | ||||||||||||
Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets | (163,367 | ) | (12.6 | )% | (185,930 | ) | (18.3 | )% | (177,068 | ) | (13.4 | )% | ||||||||||||
Write downs and other provisions | (19,487 | ) | (1.5 | )% | (6,178 | ) | (0.6 | )% | (1,017 | ) | (0.1 | )% | ||||||||||||
Other operating costs | (180,836 | ) | (14.0 | )% | (30,399 | ) | (3.0 | )% | (49,034 | ) | (3.7 | )% | ||||||||||||
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Operating (Loss)/Profit | (94,028 | ) | (7.3 | )% | (22,555 | ) | (2.2 | )% | 88,639 | 6.7 | % | |||||||||||||
Financial income | 45,889 | 3.6 | % | 34,352 | 3.4 | % | 22,061 | 1.7 | % | |||||||||||||||
Financial expenses | (43,823 | ) | (3.4 | )% | (48,072 | ) | (4.7 | )% | (37,492 | ) | (2.8 | )% | ||||||||||||
Foreign exchange (losses)/gains | (7,791 | ) | (0.6 | )% | 13,455 | 1.3 | % | (2,441 | ) | (0.2 | )% | |||||||||||||
Result from investments accounted for using the equity method | 2,794 | 0.2 | % | (4,205 | ) | (0.4 | )% | (1,534 | ) | (0.1 | )% | |||||||||||||
Impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method | — | 0.0 | % | (4,532 | ) | (0.4 | )% | — | 0.0 | % | ||||||||||||||
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(Loss)/Profit before taxes | (96,959 | ) | (7.5 | )% | (31,557 | ) | (3.1 | )% | 69,233 | 5.2 | % | |||||||||||||
Income taxes | (30,702 | ) | (2.4 | )% | (14,983 | ) | (1.5 | )% | (43,794 | ) | (3.3 | )% | ||||||||||||
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(Loss)/Profit for the year | (127,661 | ) | (9.9 | )% | (46,540 | ) | (4.6 | )% | 25,439 | 1.9 | % |
Revenues
Zegna generates revenues primarily from the sale of its products (net of returns and discounts), as well as from fees for services provided, royalties received from third parties and licensees.
The following table sets forth a breakdown of revenues by product line for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019.
(Euro thousands) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Zegna branded products | 847,311 | 636,478 | 919,545 | 210,833 | 33.1 | % | (283,067 | ) | (30.8 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Thom Browne | 263,397 | 179,490 | 160,595 | 83,907 | 46.7 | % | 18,895 | 11.8 | % | |||||||||||||||||||
Textile | 102,244 | 87,615 | 108,513 | 14,629 | 16.7 | % | (20,898 | ) | (19.3 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Third Party Brands | 74,957 | 82,273 | 91,720 | (7,316 | ) | (8.9 | )% | (9,447 | ) | (10.3 | )% | |||||||||||||||||
Agnona | 1,191 | 12,389 | 17,691 | (11,198 | ) | (90.4 | )% | (5,302 | ) | (30.0 | )% | |||||||||||||||||
Other | 3,302 | 16,488 | 23,263 | (13,186 | ) | (80.0 | )% | (6,775 | ) | (29.1 | )% | |||||||||||||||||
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Total revenues | 1,292,402 | 1,014,733 | 1,321,327 | 277,669 | 27.40 | % | (306,594 | ) | (23.20 | )% |
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The following table sets forth a breakdown of revenues by sales channel for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019.
(Euro thousands) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Direct to Consumer (DTC) - Zegna branded products | 712,862 | 527,972 | 743,012 | 184,890 | 35.0 | % | (215,040 | ) | (28.9 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Direct to Consumer (DTC) - Thom Browne branded products | 138,567 | 85,268 | 61,045 | 53,299 | 62.5 | % | 24,223 | 39.7 | % | |||||||||||||||||||
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Total Direct to Customer (DTC) | 851,429 | 613,240 | 804,057 | 238,189 | 38.8 | % | (190,817 | ) | (23.7 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Wholesale Zegna branded products | 134,449 | 108,506 | 176,533 | 25,943 | 23.9 | % | (68,027 | ) | (38.5 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Wholesale Thom Browne branded products | 124,830 | 94,222 | 99,550 | 30,608 | 32.5 | % | (5,328 | ) | (5.4 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Wholesale Third Party Brands and Textile | 177,201 | 169,888 | 200,233 | 7,313 | 4.3 | % | (30,345 | ) | (15.2 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Wholesale Agnona | 1,191 | 12,389 | 17,691 | (11,198 | ) | (90.4 | )% | (5,302 | ) | (30.0 | )% | |||||||||||||||||
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Total Wholesale | 437,671 | 385,005 | 494,007 | 52,666 | 13.7 | % | (109,002 | ) | (22.1 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
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Other | 3,302 | 16,488 | 23,263 | (13,186 | ) | (80.0 | )% | (6,775 | ) | (29.1 | )% | |||||||||||||||||
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Total revenues | 1,292,402 | 1,014,733 | 1,321,327 | 277,669 | 27.4 | % | (306,594 | ) | (23.2 | )% |
The following table sets forth a breakdown of revenues by geographical area for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019.
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
EMEA (1) | 380,325 | 315,879 | 431,384 | 64,446 | 20.4 | % | (115,505 | ) | (26.8 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
of which Italy | 158,722 | 121,202 | 140,676 | 37,520 | 31.0 | % | (19,474 | ) | (13.8 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
of which UK | 37,682 | 32,985 | 58,012 | 4,697 | 14.2 | % | (25,027 | ) | (43.1 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
North America (2) | 191,283 | 131,049 | 233,327 | 60,234 | 46.0 | % | (102,278 | ) | (43.8 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
of which United States | 176,059 | 114,818 | 205,744 | 61,241 | 53.3 | % | (90,926 | ) | (44.2 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Latin America (3) | 19,971 | 12,915 | 25,404 | 7,056 | 54.6 | % | (12,489 | ) | (49.2 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
APAC (4) | 696,344 | 551,650 | 626,059 | 144,694 | 26.2 | % | (74,409 | ) | (11.9 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
of which Greater China Region | 588,876 | 438,193 | 458,294 | 150,683 | 34.4 | % | (20,101 | ) | (4.4 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
of which Japan | 55,479 | 61,523 | 90,240 | (6,044 | ) | (9.8 | )% | (28,717 | ) | (31.8 | )% | |||||||||||||||||
Other (5) | 4,479 | 3,240 | 5,153 | 1,239 | 38.2 | % | (1,913 | ) | (37.1 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
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Total | 1,292,402 | 1,014,733 | 1,321,327 | 277,669 | 27.4 | % | (306,594 | ) | (23.2 | )% |
(1) | EMEA includes Europe, the Middle East and Africa. |
(2) | North America includes the United States of America and Canada. |
(3) | Latin America includes Mexico, Brazil and other Central and South American countries. |
(4) | APAC includes the Greater China Region, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, India and other Southeast Asian countries. |
(5) | Other revenues mainly include royalties and certain sales of old season products. |
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2021 compared to 2020
Revenues for the year ended December, 2021 amounted to €1,292,402 thousand, an increase of €277,669 thousand or 27.4%, compared to €1,014,733 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
By product line, the increase in revenues was mainly related to (i) an increase of €210,833 thousand (+33.1%) in Zegna branded products, (ii) an increase of €83,907 thousand (+46.7%) in Thom Browne and (iii) an increase of €14,629 thousand in Textile, which experienced double digit percentage growth, partially offset by (iv) decreases of €7,316 thousand, €11,198 thousand and €13,816 thousand in Third Party Brands, Agnona (which was disposed of as part of the Disposition) and Other, respectively. The increase in Zegna branded products was attributable to sales growth in all categories and primarily in luxury leisurewear and shoes as well as higher volumes in 2021 as 2020 was more severely impacted by temporary store closures related to COVID-19 restrictions. The increase in Thom Browne reflects higher revenues in all product lines in both menswear and womenswear categories, and the introduction of a new kidswear line during the year.
By sales channel, the increase in revenues was mainly related to (i) an increase of €238,189 thousand (+38.8%) in the DTC channel and (ii) an increase of €52,666 thousand (+13.7%) in the Wholesale channel. The increase in the DTC channel consisted of a €184,890 thousand increase in Zegna branded products, driven by higher volumes, primarily in in the United States, EMEA and the Greater China Region, while revenues declined in other APAC markets which continue to be negatively affected by COVID-19 restrictions and due to the conversion of 17 DOS’s in Korea to franchising in January 2021, and a €53,299 thousand increase in Thom Browne, which experienced growth in all product lines and geographies, and benefited from the opening of fourteen new stores in 2021. The increase in the Wholesale channel was driven by Thom Browne branded products, mainly in EMEA and APAC, and Zegna branded products, mainly in North America and APAC, as well as the recovery of the Textile product line, especially in the second half of 2021, as order intake in 2020 was adversely affected by the COVID-19 pandemic.
By geographical area, the increase in revenues was mainly related to (i) an increase of €144,694 thousand in APAC mainly due to higher local consumption in the Greater China Region driven by restrictions on international travel, as well as the opening of ten new Thom Browne stores in 2021, (ii) an increase of €64,446 thousand in EMEA driven by significant growth in the Thom Browne Wholesale channel, as well as the DTC channel, which was impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, especially in the UAE, and (iii) an increase of €60,234 thousand in North America driven by the recovery of the DTC channel following the reversal of COVID-19 restrictions.
For further details on revenues with respect to each of Zegna’s two segments for the year ended December 31, 2021 compared with the year ended December 31, 2020, see “–Results by Segment” below.
2020 compared to 2019
Revenues for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €1,014,733 thousand, a decrease of €306,594 thousand or 23.2%, compared to €1,321,327 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
By product line, the increase in revenues was mainly related to (i) a decrease of €283,067 thousand (-30.8%) in Zegna branded products, (ii) a decrease of €20,898 thousand (-19.3%) in Textile and (iii) a decrease of €9,447 thousand (-10.3%) in Third Party Brands, partially offset by (iv) an increase of €18,895 thousand (+11.8%) in Thom Browne. In particular: sales of Zegna branded products were negatively impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic outbreak in 2020, especially in relation to formalwear; Textile experienced lower demand and order cancellations as a result of COVID-19, only partially offset by the acquisition of Dondi in 2019 (Dondi was consolidated for a full twelve months in 2020 compared to four months in 2019); Third Party Brands also experienced lower demand driven by COVID-19; Thom Browne revenues increased by €24,223 thousand in the DTC channel driven by new store openings (both for stores opened in 2020 and for the full year effect of new stores opened in 2019) and an increase in E-Commerce sales, only partially offset by a decrease of €5,328 thousand in the Wholesale channel from the partial shift of deliveries of the Spring Summer 2021 Pre-Collection from the fourth quarter of 2020 to first quarter of 2021.
By sales channel, the decrease in revenues was mainly related to (i) a decrease of €190,817 thousand (-23.7%) in the DTC channel, (ii) a decrease of €73,355 thousand (-26.6%) in the Wholesale Zegna Branded Products and Thom Browne channel and (iii) a decrease of €30,345 thousand (-15.2%) in the Wholesale Third Party Brands and Textile channel, with all channels negatively impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic outbreak in 2020. The decrease in the DTC channel was driven by Zegna branded products, especially in EMEA and North America caused by the temporary closure of our stores in 2020 and by international travel restrictions as a result of the pandemic, the effects of which were partially offset by an increase in Thom Browne DTC sales as a result of new store openings and organic growth in the Greater China Region pushed by higher local consumption. The decrease in the Wholesale Zegna Branded Products and Thom Browne channel included a decrease of €68,027 thousand for Zegna branded products as a result of lower demand and cancellations in North America and EMEA as a consequence of temporary store closures and international travel restrictions, and a decrease of €5,328 thousand in Thom Browne as a result of the partial shift of deliveries of the Spring Summer 2021 Pre-Collection from the fourth quarter of 2020 to the first quarter of 2021.
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By geographical area, the decrease was mainly related to (i) a decrease of €115,505 thousand in EMEA, (ii) a decrease of €102,278 thousand in North America, and (iii) a decrease of €74,409 thousand in APAC, with all regions negatively impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic to varying degrees. In the first half of 2020, APAC was significantly affected due to the full lockdown measures adopted in several countries, including the Greater China Region. The EMEA region was particularly impacted by lockdowns from the end of the first quarter of 2020 through most of the second quarter, with a partial recovery starting from June 2020, while the U.S. market was more significantly impacted in the second quarter of 2020. While Zegna resumed manufacturing activities during the second quarter of 2020, the temporary closures of our stores in different regions caused a decline in sales in the Zegna Branded Products DTC channel and in the Wholesale channel (mostly in EMEA and North America). In the second half of 2020, Zegna Branded Products experienced a steady recovery, especially in the Greater China Region thanks to higher local consumption as a consequence of international travel restrictions, while Thom Browne sales were supported by organic growth as well as new store openings.
For further details on revenues with respect to each of Zegna’s two segments for 2020 as compared to 2019, see “ — Results by Segment” below.
Other income
Other income mainly includes income from the sale of advertising materials, tax refund commissions and other miscellaneous income.
The following table sets forth other income for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Other income | 8,260 | 5,373 | 7,873 | 2,887 | 53.7 | % | (2,500 | ) | (31.8 | )% |
2021 compared to 2020
Other income for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €8,260 thousand, an increase of €2,887 thousand or 53.7%, compared to €5,373 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The increase in other income in 2021 compared to 2020 was primarily attributable to the sale of rights to build or develop airspace above a building in the United States.
2020 compared to 2019
Other income for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €5,373 thousand, a decrease of €2,500 thousand or 31.8%, compared to €7,873 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The decrease in other income in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to (i) lower tax refund commissions of €1,193 thousand driven by store closures as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic and (ii) a decrease in sales of advertising materials of €528 thousand, mainly sales to franchisees, as well as a decrease in other miscellaneous income.
Cost of raw materials and consumables
Cost of raw materials and consumables consist primarily of the cost for materials and components used to manufacture Zegna’s products, such as wool, silk, leather and other fabrics, as well as the costs incurred for semi-finished products, finished goods and consumables. Cost of raw materials and consumables also includes write downs of raw materials and finished product inventory.
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The table below sets forth Zegna’s cost of raw materials and consumables for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019.
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | (Increase)/Decrease | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | As a % of Revenues | 2020 | As a % of Revenues | 2019 | As a % of Revenues | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Raw materials | (108,442 | ) | (8.4 | %) | (108,130 | ) | (10.7 | %) | (139,965 | ) | (10.6 | %) | (312 | ) | (0.3 | %) | 31,835 | 22.7 | % | |||||||||||||||||||||
Finished goods | (161,731 | ) | (12.5 | %) | (130,006 | ) | (12.8 | %) | (141,512 | ) | (10.7 | %) | (31,725 | ) | (24.4 | %) | 11,506 | 8.1 | % | |||||||||||||||||||||
Consumables | (12,951 | ) | (1.0 | %) | (10,909 | ) | (1.1 | %) | (14,067 | ) | (1.1 | %) | (2,042 | ) | (18.7 | %) | 3,158 | 22.4 | % | |||||||||||||||||||||
Change in raw materials, consumables and finished goods | (24,822 | ) | (1.9 | %) | 131 | 0.0 | % | (9,991 | ) | (0.8 | %) | (24,953 | ) | n.m. | (*) | 10,122 | 101.3 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Other | (1,663 | ) | (0.1 | %) | (1,655 | ) | (0.2 | %) | (4,266 | ) | (0.3 | %) | (8 | ) | (0.5 | %) | 2,611 | 61.2 | % | |||||||||||||||||||||
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Total cost of raw materials and consumables | (309,609 | ) | (24.0 | %) | (250,569 | ) | (24.7 | %) | (309,801 | ) | (23.4 | %) | (59,040 | ) | (23.6 | %) | 59,232 | 19.1 | % |
(*) | Throughout this section “n.m.” means not meaningful. |
2021 compared to 2020
Cost of raw materials and consumables for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €309,609 thousand, an increase of €59,040 thousand or 23.6%, compared to €250,569 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The increase in cost of raw materials and consumables was primarily attributable to (i) an increase in sales volumes in both Zegna branded products and Thom Browne (as described above) and (ii) an increase in inventory obsolescence costs in the Thom Browne segment.
Cost of raw materials and consumables as a percentage of revenues decreased from 24.7% for the year ended December 31, 2020 to 24.0% for the year ended December 31, 2021.
2020 compared to 2019
Cost of raw materials and consumables for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €250,569 thousand, a decrease of €59,232 thousand or 19.1%, compared to €309,801 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The decrease in cost of raw materials and consumables in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to (i) lower volumes of purchases of raw materials, goods and consumables of €46,499 thousand, driven by the decline in demand for Zegna’s products caused by the COVID-19 pandemic and current temporary suspension of operation; and (ii) the slower pace throughout Zegna’s value chain as a result of temporary layoffs and other similar temporary measures; partially offset by (iii) a €2,065 thousand impairment recorded in 2020 of inventory pertaining to Agnona (the womenswear business held for sale at the end of 2020).
Cost of raw materials and consumables as a percentage of revenues increased from 23.4% in 2019 to 24.7% in 2020 due to the decreased overall volumes resulting in higher incidence of supply chain purchases.
Purchased, outsourced and other costs
Purchased, outsourced and other costs mainly consist of consultancy fees and corporate bodies fees, advertising and marketing expenses (which include communication and marketing costs, and expenses for advertising, media and events), lease expenses (primarily variable rents which are not dependent on an index or rate), service costs for outsourced manufacturing from third parties on commissions, freight, insurance and selling expenses, utilities and maintenance expenses, as well as other services.
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The following table sets forth the purchased, outsourced and other costs for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | (Increase)/Decrease | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Purchased, outsourced and other costs | (353,629 | ) | (286,926 | ) | (371,697 | ) | (66,703 | ) | (23.2 | )% | 84,771 | 22.8 | % | |||||||||||||||
Purchased, outsourced and other costs as % of Revenues | (27.4 | )% | (28.3 | )% | (28.1 | )% |
2021 compared to 2020
Purchased, outsourced and other costs for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €353,629 thousand, an increase of €66,703 thousand or 23.2%, compared to €286,926 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The increase in purchased, outsourced and other costs was primarily attributable to (i) an increase in consultancy fees and corporate bodies fees of €42,031 thousand, mainly due to €34,092 thousand of costs related to bank services, legal advisors and other consultancy services relating to the Business Combination, (ii) an increase in lease expenses of €23,590 thousand, including the effects of lower rent reductions received in 2021 compared to 2020 as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic (rent reductions amounted to €12,877 thousand in 2021 compared to €24,931 thousand in 2020) as well as an increase of €8,756 thousand of variable lease payments driven by the increase in DTC sales and (iii) an increase of €9,757 thousand of advertising and marketing expenses mainly due to actions taken by Zegna in 2020 to reduce costs as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, partially offset by (iv) a decrease in costs for the outsourcing of production of €6,009 thousand driven by a change in mix of production inputs.
Purchased, outsourced and other costs as a percentage of revenues decreased from 28.3% for the year ended December 31, 2020 to 27.4% for the year ended December 31, 2021, mainly as a result of the significant increase in revenues as described above.
2020 compared to 2019
Purchased, outsourced and other costs for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €286,926 thousand, a decrease of €84,771 thousand or 22.8%, compared to €371,697 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The decrease in purchased, outsourced and other costs in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, including (i) €8,696 thousand of reduced variable rents as a result of the decline in sales driven by the pandemic, €1,866 thousand of reduced short term rents and low value rental agreements, and €24,931 thousand savings resulting from rent reductions negotiated with landlords, (ii) Zegna’s cost reduction initiatives (including reductions in advertising and marketing activities amounting to €13,322 thousand), (iii) €15,418 thousand reduced costs for outsourced production related to lower volumes due to COVID-19, and (iv) lower freight, insurance and selling expenses of €11,572 thousand resulting from the decline in activity due to COVID-19, partially offset by (v) higher expenses for royalties of €1,102 thousand in 2020 compared to 2019 thanks to a new partnership agreement with the Fear of God brand.
Purchased, outsourced and other costs as a percentage of revenues increased from 28.1% in 2019 to 28.3% in 2020 mainly as a result of the decrease in revenues caused by the COVID-19 pandemic.
Personnel costs
Personnel costs include expenses related to wages and salaries for Zegna’s employees, social and pension contributions, severance indemnities, uniforms, benefits and other payroll expenses, as well as share-based payments.
The following table sets forth personnel costs for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | (Increase)/Decrease | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Personnel costs | (367,762 | ) | (282,659 | ) | (331,944 | ) | (85,103 | ) | (30.1 | )% | 49,285 | 14.8 | % | |||||||||||||||
Personnel costs as % of revenues | (28.5 | )% | (27.9 | )% | (25.1 | )% |
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2021 compared to 2020
Personnel costs for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €367,762 thousand, an increase of €85,103 thousand or 30.1%, compared to €282,659 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The increase in personnel costs was primarily attributable to (i) an increase in wages and salaries of €61,802 thousand primarily due to the actions taken in 2020 in response to COVID-19 (many of which were partially or fully reversed in 2021), including the impact of furlough and other temporary layoff measures taken at our DOSs, cuts on senior and mid-level manager salaries and permanently reduced headcount in certain business functions, as well as €10,916 thousand relating to a one-time gift of €1,500 to each employee of the Group as a result of the Company’s listing on the NYSE on December 20, 2021 (which was paid in February 2022) and €8,702 thousand relating to a one-time fixed extraordinary bonuses earned by certain of Zegna’s senior management team (excluding the CEO) which will be paid in 2024; (ii) an increase in share-based payments of €16,290 thousand, including €5,380 thousand relating to the grant of performance share units, each representing the right to receive one Zegna ordinary share, to the Group’s Chief Executive Officer (“CEO”), other Zegna directors, key executives with strategic responsibilities and other employees of the Group, all subject to certain vesting conditions, €1,236 thousand related to the fair value of private warrants issued, pursuant to the Business Combination, to certain Zegna non-executive directors, and €3,536 thousand for other equity incentives granted to key management (see Note 42 - Related party transactions to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus for additional information).
Personnel costs as a percentage of revenues increased from 27,9% for the year ended December 31, 2020 to 28.5% for the year ended December 31, 2021, driven by the 27.4% increase in revenues compared to an increase of 30.1% in personnel costs as described above.
2020 compared to 2019
Personnel costs for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €282,659 thousand, a decrease of €49,285 thousand or 14.8%, compared to €331,944 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The decrease in personnel costs in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to (i) €40,231 thousand of decreased compensation and benefits, primarily due to the actions taken in response to COVID-19, including the impact of furlough and other temporary layoff measures taken at our DOSs, cuts on senior and mid-level manager salaries and permanently reduced headcount in certain business functions; and (ii) €3,468 thousand of decreased costs for uniforms (due to a uniform restyling initiative implemented in 2019 and to the reduced use of uniforms during the store closures resulting from the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020); partially offset by (iii) higher severance costs of €2,530 thousand compared to 2019 mainly due to the reorganization of certain headquarter services, the permanent closure of some stores in Italy and the reduction of capacity at a plant in Spain.
Personnel costs as a percentage of revenues increased from 25.1% in 2019 to 27,9% in 2020 mainly due to lower overall sales, partially offset by the cost-reduction measures described above.
Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets
Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets consist of depreciation and amortization expenses related to property, plant and equipment, investment property, right-of-use assets and intangible assets with finite useful lives (therefore excluding goodwill and brands). These costs are depreciated or amortized over their useful life. Impairment of assets includes impairments of right-of-use assets, property, plant and equipment and intangible assets. Following the Disposition, certain assets previously owned by Zegna are leased from third parties, resulting in a decrease of depreciation of property, plant and equipment that is substantially offset by an increase in amortization of right-of-use assets. For additional information on the Disposition please see the sections entitled “—Trends, Uncertainties and Opportunities—The Disposition”.
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The following table sets forth a breakdown of depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | (Increase)/Decrease | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Depreciation and amortization | (154,195 | ) | (166,205 | ) | (168,210 | ) | 12,010 | 7.2 | % | 2,005 | 1.2 | % | ||||||||||||||||
Impairment of assets | (9,172 | ) | (19,725 | ) | (8,858 | ) | 10,553 | 53.5 | % | (10,867 | ) | (122.7 | )% | |||||||||||||||
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Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets | (163,367 | ) | (185,930 | ) | (177,068 | ) | 22,563 | 12.1 | % | (8,862 | ) | (5.0 | )% | |||||||||||||||
Depreciation and amortization as % of Revenues | (11.9 | )% | (16.4 | )% | (12.7 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Impairment of assets as % of Revenues | (0.7 | )% | (1.9 | )% | (0.7 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets as % of Revenues | (12.6 | )% | (18.3 | )% | (13.4 | )% |
2021 compared to 2020
Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €163,367 thousand, a decrease of €22,563 thousand or 12.1%, compared to €185,930 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The decrease in depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets was primarily attributable to (i) lower impairment of assets of €10,553 thousand and, in particular, lower impairment of right-of-use assets of €9,230 thousand mainly due to impairments recognized in 2020 as a result of the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic on the Group’s operations, primarily relating to leased stores in Hong Kong that are part of the Zegna Segment; (ii) a decrease of €8,361 thousand in depreciation of property, plant and equipment and investment property driven by the disposal of certain assets as part of the Disposition, as well as the effects of lower investments in 2020 as a measure to preserve liquidity following the COVID-19 outbreak, and (iii) a decrease of €2,731 thousand in amortization of right-of-use assets related to certain lease agreements renegotiated from fixed to variable payments, as well as to certain stores located in Italy and Japan that were fully impaired in the second half of 2020, partially offset by higher depreciation in the Thom Browne segment as a consequence of new store openings in 2020 and 2021.
Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets as a percentage of revenues decreased from 18,3% for the year ended December 31, 2020 to 12.6%, driven by the 27.4% increase in revenues compared to an increase of 12.1% in depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets as described above.
2020 compared to 2019
Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €185,930 thousand, an increase of €8,862 thousand or 5.0% compared to €177,068 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The increase in depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to (i) higher impairment of right-of-use assets of €7,736 thousand compared to 2019 and (ii) higher impairment of property, plant and equipment of €3,194 thousand compared to 2019; partially offset by (iii) lower amortization of intangible assets of €856 thousand compared to 2019, and (iv) lower amortization of right-of-use assets of €1,656 thousand as certain lease agreements in Hong Kong stores were renegotiated from fixed payments to variable payments and therefore not capitalized as right-of-use assets.
Impairment of right-of-use assets in 2020 was €15,716 thousand compared to €7,980 thousand in 2019, while impairment of property, plant and equipment in 2020 was €4,011 thousand compared to €817 thousand in 2019; the increase is mainly related to the early termination of leases in Japan and Italy in 2020 resulting in charges of €10,564 thousand and €1,789 thousand, respectively, and €3,340 thousand relating to the impairment for leases in Hong Kong (due to lowered expectations on stores’ profitability related to political unrest started in 2019 and travel restrictions following COVID-19 outbreak) and other regions. Rent reductions negotiated with landlords in 2020 due to COVID-19 of €24,931 thousand are accounted for in purchased, outsourced and other costs, as permitted by the amendment to IFRS 16 on COVID-19 rent reductions.
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Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets as a percentage of revenues increased from 13.4% in 2019 to 18.3% in 2020 due to (i) increase in 2020 impairment of assets and (ii) revenues decline in 2020 compared to 2019.
Write downs and other provisions
Costs for write downs and other provisions mainly include the bad-debt provision on current receivables, impairment of held for sale assets, and accruals for legal expenses.
The following table sets forth write downs and other provisions for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | (Increase)/Decrease | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Write downs and other provisions | (19,487 | ) | (6,178 | ) | (1,017 | ) | (13,309 | ) | (215.4 | )% | (5,161 | ) | (507.5 | )% | ||||||||||||||
Write downs and other provisions as % of revenue | (1.5 | )% | (0.6 | )% | (0.1 | )% |
2021 compared to 2020
Write downs and other provisions for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €19,487 thousand, an increase of €13,309 thousand compared to €6,178 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The change in write downs and other provisions was primarily attributable to (i) an unfavorable judgment that was handed down against the Group in respect of a legal claim related to a lease agreement in the US, resulting in the recognition of an additional provision of €12,192 thousand, and (ii) €6,006 thousand related to losses incurred by Agnona subsequent to the Group’s sale of a majority stake in Agnona in January 2021, for which the Group is required to compensate Agnona in accordance with the terms of the related sale agreement, partially offset by a lower loss allowance on trade receivables and lower provisions for legal expenses and restoration obligations for leased stores, which were all impacted in 2020 by the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic on the Group’s operations.
2020 compared to 2019
Write downs and other provisions for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €6,178 thousand, an increase of €5,161 thousand, compared to €1,017 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The increase in write downs and other provisions in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to (i) a provision for legal expenses relating to a lease agreement in the United Kingdom of €3,000 thousand, and (ii) higher provisions of €2,909 thousand for bad-debts mainly due to an increase in overdue payments from third-party customers during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Other operating costs
Other operating costs include indirect taxes, gifts and donations, bank fees, travel expenses, stationary and similar materials, losses and gains on disposals of assets, penalties and other expenses.
The following table sets forth operating costs for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | (Increase)/Decrease | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Operating costs | (180,836 | ) | (30,399 | ) | (49,034 | ) | (150,437 | ) | n.m. | 18,635 | 38.0 | % | ||||||||||||||||
Operating costs as % of revenue | (14.0 | )% | (3.0 | )% | (3.7 | )% |
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2021 compared to 2020
Other operating costs for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €180,836 thousand, an increase of €150,437 thousand compared to €30,399 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The increase in other operating costs was primarily due to €152,869 thousand related to the Business Combination, including (i) €114,963 thousand relating to share-based payments for listing services recognized as the excess of the fair value of Zegna ordinary shares issued as part of the Business Combination and the fair value of IIAC’s identifiable net assets acquired, and (ii) €37,906 thousand for the issuance of 5,031,250 Zegna ordinary shares to the holders of IIAC class B shares to be held in escrow, as part of the Business Combination. The release of these shares from escrow is subject to attainment of certain targets within a seven-year period. For additional information related to the Business Combination please refer to “—The Business Combination”.
2020 compared to 2019
Other operating costs for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €30,399 thousand, a decrease of €18,635 thousand or 38.0%, compared to €49,034 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
Costs for gifts, associations and donations in 2020 amounted to €10,834 thousand compared to €12,338 thousand in 2019, and included donations for €4,482 thousand to support the efforts against the spread of COVID-19.
The decrease in other operating costs in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to (i) a decrease of €11,231 thousand in travel expenses driven by reduced travel as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, (ii) lower bank fees of €3,381 thousand, (iii) reduced contributions to Fondazione Zegna in 2020 of €799 thousand (from €999 thousand in 2019 to €200 thousand in 2020), and (iv) a decrease in indirect taxes of €2,941 thousand.
Financial income and financial expenses
Financial income and financial expenses primarily include the effects of fair value changes on put options owned by non-controlling interests in Zegna’s investments in the Thom Browne Group, the Gruppo Dondi S.p.A. and Lanificio Ermenegildo e Figli S.p.A., and fair value changes in liabilities for cash-settled share-based payments, as well as income and expenses relating to Zegna’s financial assets, the costs of hedging and derivatives, and interest income and expenses on financial assets and liabilities.
The following tables set forth financial income and financial expenses for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Financial income | 45,889 | 34,352 | 22,061 | 11,537 | 33.6 | % | 12,291 | 55.7 | % | |||||||||||||||||||
Financial income as a % of revenues | 3.6 | % | 3.4 | % | 1.7 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | (Increase)/Decrease | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Financial expenses | (43,823 | ) | (48,072 | ) | (37,492 | ) | 4,249 | 8.8 | % | (10,580 | ) | (28.2 | )% | |||||||||||||||
Financial expenses as % of revenues | (3.4 | )% | (4.7 | )% | (2.8 | )% |
2021 compared to 2020
Financial income for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €45,889 thousand, an increase of €11,537 thousand or 33.6%, compared to €34,352 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020. The increase in financial income was primarily related to (i) an increase of €7,033 thousand relating to fixed-income securities held by the Group (a gain of €17,845 thousand compared to a
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gain of €10,812 thousand in 2020), (ii) a gain of €20,675 thousand recognized following the purchase of an additional 5% of the Thom Browne Group in June 2021 and the derecognition of a portion of the liability for the written put option on the non-controlling interest (compared to gains of €17,743 thousand on options in 2020, as further described below) and (iii) a gain of €2,760 thousand on derivative financial instruments relating to the closing of the Group’s option over its investment in Elah Dufour S.p.A., which was disposed of as part of the Disposition.
Financial expenses for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €43,823 thousand, a decrease of €4,249 thousand or 8.8%, compared to €48,072 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020. The decrease in financial expenses was primarily attributable to (i) a decrease of €4,370 relating to fixed-income securities, (ii) a decrease of €2,338 thousand relating to changes in the value of the put options owned by the non-controlling interests in the Group’s investments in Thom Browne, Dondi and Lanificio (charges of €13,391 thousand in 2021 compared to €15,729 thousand in 2020), (iii) a decrease of interest and financial charges for lease liabilities of €1,633 thousand, and (vi) a decrease in interest on bank loans and overdrafts of €920, partially offset by (v) an increase of €4,137 relating to changes in the fair value of warrants, and (vi) an increase of €853 thousand in other financial expenses.
2020 compared to 2019
Financial income for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €34,352 thousand, an increase of €12,291 thousand or 55.7%, compared to €22,061 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019. The increase in financial income in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to (i) the waiver by Zegna’s CEO of an option to sell back to Zegna 25,988 ordinary shares, which had been granted to him under his incentive plan, amounting to €9,975 thousand, and (ii) the decrease of €7,768 thousand of the fair value of Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna e Figli S.p.A. option, partially offset by (iii) lower financial income from fixed-income securities, financial loans and other financial assets of €552 thousand, €1,103 thousand and €1,203 thousand, respectively.
Financial expenses for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €48,072 thousand, an increase of €10,580 thousand or 28.2%, compared to €37,492 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019. The increase in financial expenses in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to (i) the increase of the fair value of Thom Browne Inc. and Gruppo Dondi S.p.A. options amounting to €15,538 thousand and €191 thousand, respectively, (ii) the increase of €5,926 thousand of fixed-income securities expenses compared to 2019 with some financial assets experiencing a decrease in fair value following COVID-19 outbreak, partially offset by (iii) lower hedging operations expenses of €4,670 thousand primarily due to lower hedged volumes compared to 2019 as a consequence of the expected revenues decline related to COVID-19, (iv) lower interest expenses on bank loans and overdrafts of €1,483 thousand primarily due to lower average debt and lower interest rates compared to 2019 and (v) lower lease liabilities financial expenses of €907 thousand.
Exchange (losses)/gains
Exchange (losses)/gains include realized losses and gains on exchange differences and on fair value adjustments of derivatives and the effects of exchange rates from the remeasurement of options.
The following table sets forth exchange (losses)/gains for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Exchange (losses)/gains | (7,791 | ) | 13,455 | (2,441 | ) | (21,246 | ) | (157.9 | )% | 15,896 | 651.2 | % | ||||||||||||||||
Exchange (losses)/gains as % of revenue | (0.6 | )% | 1.3 | % | (0.2 | )% |
2021 compared to 2020
Exchange losses for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €7,791 thousand compared to exchange gains of €13,455 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020. Exchange gains for the year ended December 31, 2020 include gains of €14,171 thousand relating to the Thom Browne, Inc. put option.
2020 compared to 2019
Exchange gains for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €13,455 thousand compared to exchange losses of €2,441 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019. The change in exchange gains in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily
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attributable to an exchange gain on the Thom Browne, Inc. put option of €14,171 thousand compared to a €3,163 thousand exchange loss in 2019 due to Euro appreciation against the US dollar going from 1.123 for the year ended December 31, 2019 to 1.227 for the year ended December 31, 2020.
Result and impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method
Result and impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method includes Zegna’s share of income and loss, as well as impairments, related to our investments recorded under the equity method of accounting.
The following tables set forth result and impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Result from investments accounted for using the equity method | 2,794 | (4,205 | ) | (1,534 | ) | 6,999 | 166.4 | % | (2,671 | ) | (174.1 | )% | ||||||||||||||||
Impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method | — | (4,532 | ) | — | 4,532 | 100.0 | % | (4,532 | ) | 0.0 | % | |||||||||||||||||
Result and impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method as % of Revenues | 0.2 | % | (0.9 | )% | (0.1 | )% |
2021 compared to 2020
Result from investments accounted for using the equity method for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to a profit of €2,794 thousand compared to a loss of €4,205 thousand for the year ended December 31,2020, and primarily related to the Group’s investment in Tom Ford International LLC (“Tom Ford”) for both periods, as well as to Pelletteria Tizeta S.r.l. and Filati Biagioli Modesto S.p.A. in 2021.
Impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to zero compared to €4,532 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020, which was entirely related to the Group’s investment in Tom Ford.
2020 compared to 2019
Result from investments accounted for using the equity method for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to a loss of €4,205 thousand, an increase of €2,671 thousand or 174.1%, compared to €1,534 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019, and primarily related to the Group’s investment in Tom Ford for both periods.
Impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €4,532 thousand and related entirely to the Group’s investment in Tom Ford, compared to zero for the year ended December 31, 2019.
Income taxes
Income taxes include the current taxes on the results of Zegna’s operations and any changes in deferred income taxes.
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The following table sets forth income taxes for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | (Increase)/Decrease | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Income taxes | (30,702 | ) | (14,983 | ) | (43,794 | ) | (15,719 | ) | (104.9 | )% | 28,811 | 65.8 | % | |||||||||||||||
Income taxes as % of revenue | (2.4 | )% | (1.5 | )% | (3.3 | )% |
2021 compared to 2020
Income taxes for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €30,702 thousand compared to €14,983 thousand for the year ended december 31, 2020.
The increase in income taxes was primarily attributable to higher non deductible costs related to the Business Combination and withholding taxes.
In order to facilitate the understanding of the Group’s effective tax rate, in addition to the total effective tax rate, we also present the effective tax rate net of the Italian Regional Income Tax (“IRAP”) considering IRAP is calculated on a different basis compared to the Italian corporate income tax (“IRES”). IRAP is calculated on a measure of income defined by the Italian Civil Code as the difference between operating revenues and costs, before financial income and expense, the cost of fixed term employees, credit losses and any interest included in lease payments. IRAP is calculated using financial information prepared under Italian accounting standards. The applicable IRAP rate was 5.57% for the parent company and 3.9% for the other Italian companies of the Group for each of the years ended December 31, 2021 and 2020. Zegna’s IRES tax rate was 24% for the years ended December 31, 2021 and 2020.
The effective tax rate net of IRAP was -30.6% for the year ended December 31, 2021 compared to -43.8% for the year ended December 31, 2020 (total effective tax rate of -31.7% and -47.5% for the years ended December 31, 2021 and 2020, respectively).
2020 compared to 2019
Income taxes for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €14,983 thousand, a decrease of €28,811 thousand or 65.8%, compared to €43,794 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The decrease in income taxes in 2020 compared to 2019 was primarily attributable to the decrease in profit before taxes as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic as well as the other factors that affected the results of operations as described above.
In order to facilitate the understanding of the Group’s effective income tax rate, in addition to the total effective tax rate, we also present the effective tax rate net of the Italian Regional Income Tax (“IRAP”) considering IRAP is calculated on a different basis compared to the Italian corporate income tax (“IRES”). IRAP is calculated on a measure of income defined by the Italian Civil Code as the difference between operating revenues and costs, before financial income and expense, the cost of fixed term employees, credit losses and any interest included in lease payments. IRAP is calculated using financial information prepared under Italian accounting standards. The applicable IRAP rate was 5.57% for the parent company and 3.9% for the other Italian companies of the Group for each of the years ended December 31, 2020 and 2019. Zegna’s IRES tax rate was 24% for the years ended December 31, 2020 and 2019.
The effective tax rate net of IRAP was -43.8% for 2020 compared to 60.1% for 2019 (total effective tax rate of -47.5% and 63.3% for 2020 and 2019, respectively). For 2020 the difference between the theoretical tax rate and the effective tax rate net of IRAP is primarily attributable to (i) deferred tax assets not recognized of €25,727 thousand, mainly related to tax losses of certain subsidiaries of the Group, (ii) non-deductible costs of €10,353 thousand, (iii) withholding tax on earnings of €6,221 thousand, partially offset by (iv) differences between foreign tax rates and the theoretical applicable tax rate and tax holidays of €20,321 thousand. For 2019 the difference between the theoretical tax rate and the effective tax rate net of IRAP is primarily attributable to (i) deferred tax assets not recognized of €9,386 thousand, mainly related to tax losses of certain subsidiaries of the Group, (ii) non-deductible costs of €7,349 thousand, (iii) withholding tax on earnings of €5,366 thousand, and (iv) differences between foreign tax rates and the theoretical applicable tax rate and tax holidays of €3,177 thousand.
The change in the effective tax rate net of IRAP is primarily attributable to the deferred tax assets not recognized and the differences between foreign tax rates and the theoretical tax rate.
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Results by Segment
The following tables set forth revenues and Adjusted EBIT by segment for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
Revenues
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Zegna segment | 1,035,175 | 843,318 | 1,165,911 | 191,857 | 22.8 | % | (322,593 | ) | (27.7 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Thom Browne segment | 264,066 | 179,794 | 161,200 | 84,272 | 46.9 | % | 18,594 | 11.5 | % | |||||||||||||||||||
Eliminations | (6,839 | ) | (8,379 | ) | (5,784 | ) | (1,540 | ) | 18.4 | % | (2,595 | ) | 44.9 | % | ||||||||||||||
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| |||||||||||||||
Total | 1,292,402 | 1,014,733 | 1,321,327 | 277,669 | 27.4 | % | (306,594 | ) | (23.2 | )% |
Adjusted EBIT
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Zegna segment | 111,018 | (8,981 | ) | 91,385 | 119,999 | n.m. | (100,366 | ) | (109.8 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Thom Browne segment | 38,097 | 28,994 | 15,889 | 9,103 | 31.4 | % | 13,105 | 82.5 | % | |||||||||||||||||||
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|
|
|
| |||||||||||||||
Total | 149,115 | 20,013 | 107,274 | 129,102 | 645.1 | % | (87,261 | ) | (81.3 | )% |
Details of reconciled items for these segments are provided under paragraph “Non-IFRS Financial Measures – Adjusted EBIT”.
The following is a discussion of revenues and Adjusted EBIT for each segment for the year ended December 31, 2021 as compared to the year ended December 31, 2020 and for the year ended December 31, 2020 as compared to the year ended December 31, 2019.
Zegna Segment
The following table sets forth revenues and Adjusted EBIT for the Zegna segment for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019.
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Revenues | 1,035,175 | 843,318 | 1,165,911 | 191,857 | 22.8 | % | (322,593 | ) | (27.7 | )% | ||||||||||||||||||
Adjusted EBIT | 111,018 | (8,981 | ) | 91,385 | 119,999 | n.m. | (100,366 | ) | (109.8 | )% |
Revenues
Revenues for the Zegna segment for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €1,035,175 thousand, an increase of €191,857 thousand or 22.8%, compared to €843,318 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The increase in revenues for the Zegna segment was primarily attributable to: (i) Zegna branded products, driven in large part by growth in the luxury leisurewear and shoes categories and higher volumes in 2021 as 2020 was more severely impacted by temporary store closures related to COVID-19 restrictions. Revenues in the DTC channel increased by €184,890 thousand (+35%),
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mainly due to robust growth in the United States, EMEA and the Greater China Region, while growth in other APAC markets was lower as they continue to be adversely affected by COVID-19 restrictions. Revenues in the Wholesale channel increased by €25,943 thousand (+23.9%), mainly due to North America and APAC; (ii) an increase in Textile revenues to €102 million, reflecting double digit percentage growth, including the additional contribution of €5,619 thousand from Tessitura Ubertino which was acquired in June 2021; partially offset by (iii) a decrease in Third-Party Brands, reflecting a post-COVID-19 adjustment phase in the B2B business, as well as a decrease in Agnona and other revenues primarily as a result of the Disposition.
Revenues for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €843,318 thousand, a decrease of €322,593 thousand or 27.7% compared to €1,165,911 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The decrease in revenues was primarily attributable to: (i) Zegna branded products, and in particular formalwear, which were negatively impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic outbreak in 2020 that resulted in the temporary closure of our stores. Despite this, revenues started to recover in the second half of 2020, especially in the DTC channel in the Greater China Region driven by higher local consumption due to international travel restrictions; (ii) lower demand and order cancellations for Textile as a result of COVID-19, only partially offset by the acquisition of Dondi in 2019 (Dondi was consolidated for a full twelve months in 2020 compared to four months in 2019) and (iii) lower demand driven by COVID-19 for Third Party Brands.
Adjusted EBIT
Adjusted EBIT for the Zegna segment for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €111,018 thousand compared to (€8,981) thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The change in Adjusted EBIT was primarily attributable to (i) higher revenues of €191,857 thousand driven by higher volumes in 2021, mainly driven by the luxury leisurewear and shoes categories and the other factors mentioned above, (ii) lower depreciation and amortization mainly due to the effects of lower investments in 2020 as a temporary measure to preserve liquidity following the COVID-19 outbreak, partially offset by (iii) an increase in costs related to volumes (the increase in costs was lower in proportion to the increase in revenues) and (iv) several measures taken in 2020 to reduce costs and not entirely replicated in 2021 such as the renegotiation of rent payable under lease agreements, temporary lay-offs as permitted by local emergency legislation, accessing government support measures, salary and bonus cuts to directors and senior managers, and significant reductions to marketing, travel and other expenses.
Adjusted EBIT for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €(8,981) thousand, a decrease of €100,366 thousand compared to €91,385 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The decrease in Adjusted EBIT was primarily attributable to: (i) lower revenues and inefficiencies due to the impact of COVID-19 as described above, partially offset by (ii) cost reduction initiatives to address the COVID-19 crisis such as decreased personnel costs (reduced cost for compensation and benefits including the impact of furlough and other temporary layoff measures taken at our DOSs, cuts on senior and mid-level manager salaries, reduced headcount and access to government aid), decrease of purchased, outsourced and other costs and other operating costs (savings resulting from rent reductions negotiated with landlords and other cost reductions in advertising and marketing and travel expenses) as well as a reduction in cost for raw materials and consumables as a direct consequence of sales decline.
Thom Browne Segment
The following table sets forth revenues and Adjusted EBIT for the Thom Browne segment for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019.
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | For the years ended December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | 2020 vs 2019 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Revenues | 264,066 | 179,794 | 161,200 | 84,272 | 46.9 | % | 18,594 | 11.5 | % | |||||||||||||||||||
Adjusted EBIT | 38,097 | 28,994 | 15,889 | 9,103 | 31.4 | % | 13,105 | 82.5 | % |
Revenues
Revenues for the Thom Browne segment for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €264,066 thousand, an increase of €84,272 thousand or 46.9%, compared to €179,794 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
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Revenues for the Thom Browne segment increased in all sales channels, geographies and product lines in both menswear and womenswear categories, and a new kidswear line was introduced during the year. In particular, revenues in the DTC retail channel increased by €53,299 thousand (+62.5%), including the positive effects from the opening of fourteen new stores in 2021 (of which ten are in the APAC region, three in EMEA and one in North America), and revenues in Wholesale channel increased by €30,608 thousand (+32.5%), driven by sales in the EMEA and APAC regions.
Revenues for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €179,794 thousand, an increase of €18,594 thousand or 11.5% compared to €161,200 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The increase in revenues of €18,594 thousand was primarily attributable to (i) new store openings in the DTC channel (both for stores opened in 2020 and for the full year effect of new stores opened in 2019) and (ii) an increase in E-Commerce sales, only partially offset by a decrease of €5,329 thousand in the Wholesale channel (mainly in North America and APAC, partially offset by an increase in EMEA) from the partial shift of deliveries of the Spring Summer 2021 Pre-Collection from the fourth quarter of 2020 to first quarter of 2021.
Adjusted EBIT
Adjusted EBIT for the Thom Browne segment for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €38,097 thousand compared to €28,994 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2020.
The increase in Adjusted EBIT for the Thom Browne segment was primarily attributable to (i) higher revenues of €84,272 thousand compared to 2020 (as described above), partially offset by (ii) an increase in costs driven by higher volumes and the provision for inventory, (iii) costs related to the DTC store network expansion, (iv) €8,702 thousand relating to a one-time fixed extraordinary bonuses earned by certain of Zegna’s senior management team (excluding the CEO) which will be paid in 2024, and (v) investments to improve central administrative functions and processes.
Adjusted EBIT for the year ended December 31, 2020 amounted to €28,994 thousand, an increase of €13,105 thousand compared to €15,889 thousand for the year ended December 31, 2019.
The increase in Adjusted EBIT was primarily attributable to: (i) higher revenues of €18,594 thousand compared to 2019, (ii) the negative impact of €8,228 thousand recognized in the statement of profit and loss in 2019 relating to the purchase price step up of the fair value of inventory in 2019 as part of the purchase price accounting of the Thom Browne acquisition, and partially offset by (iii) cost increase related to DTC network expansion (ten new store openings in 2020, following thirteen new stores opened in 2019.
Liquidity and Capital Resources
Overview
Zegna’s principal sources of liquidity are cash flows from operations, borrowings available under bank credit lines and other forms of indebtedness, as well as available cash and cash equivalents. Zegna requires liquidity in order to meet its obligations and fund its business. Short-term liquidity is required to fund ongoing cash requirements, including to purchase raw materials, consumables and goods for production, as well as to fund costs for services and other expenses. In addition to its general working capital and operational needs, Zegna uses significant amounts of cash for the following purposes: (i) capital expenditures to support its existing and future commercial network and production facilities (ii) principal and interest payments under its financial obligations, (iii) acquisitions, and (iv) returns of capital, including share repurchases and other corporate activities. Zegna makes capital investments primarily related to the opening of new stores or the renovation of existing stores, as well as initiatives to adapt its production facilities to emerging needs. In connection with the COVID-19 crisis, Zegna has taken several measures to preserve its liquidity as described above (see “ —Trends, Uncertainties and Opportunities”). Zegna believes its cash generation together with its available liquidity will be sufficient to meet its obligations and fund its business and capital expenditures for the foreseeable future.
Cash Flows
Year ended December 31, 2021 compared to the year ended December 31, 2020 and year ended December 31, 2020 compared to the year ended December 31, 2019
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The following table summarizes the cash flows provided by/used in operating, investing and financing activities for each of the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019. Refer to the consolidated cash flows statement and accompanying notes to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus for additional information.
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | At December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2021 vs 2020 | 2020 vs 2019 | ||||||||||||||||
Net cash flows from operating activities | 281,155 | 70,906 | 174,122 | 210,249 | (103,216 | ) | ||||||||||||||
Net cash flows (used in)/from investing activities | (82,004 | ) | 92,572 | 83,961 | (174,576 | ) | 8,611 | |||||||||||||
Net cash flows used in financing activities | (64,105 | ) | (49,052 | ) | (267,486 | ) | (15,053 | ) | 218,434 | |||||||||||
Effects of exchange rate changes on cash and cash equivalents | 7,454 | (7,761 | ) | 1,698 | 15,215 | (9,459 | ) | |||||||||||||
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Net increase/(decrease) in cash and cash equivalents | 142,500 | 106,665 | (7,705 | ) | 35,835 | 114,370 | ||||||||||||||
Cash and cash equivalents at the beginning of the year | 317,291 | 210,626 | 218,331 | 106,665 | (7,705 | ) | ||||||||||||||
Cash and cash equivalents at end of the year | 459,791 | 317,291 | 210,626 | 142,500 | 106,665 |
Net cash flows from operating activities
2021 compared to 2020
Net cash flows from operating activities increased by 210,249 thousand to €281,155 thousand in 2021 from €70,906 thousand in 2020. The increase was primarily attributable to:
• | an increase in Adjusted EBIT of €129,102 thousand (see “—Non-IFRS Financial Measures” for important information on non-IFRS measures); |
• | €33,875 thousand from a positive change in cash flows from Trade Working Capital, consisting of €69,911 thousand from the change in trade payables including customer advances driven by higher volumes in 2021 compared to 2020, which was impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, and €11,932 thousand from the change in inventories, partially offset by €47,969 thousand from the change in trade receivables, reflecting an increase in trade receivables driven by higher volumes; |
• | €30,004 thousand from a positive change in cash flows from other operating assets and liabilities, |
partially offset by:
• | higher taxes paid of €26,875 thousand |
2020 compared to 2019
Net cash flows from operating activities decreased by €103,216 thousand to €70,906 thousand in 2020 from €174,122 thousand in 2019. The decrease was primarily attributable to:
• | a decrease in profit/(loss) for the year prior to income taxes, financial income, financial expenses, exchange gains/losses and depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets, mainly driven by the adverse impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic, including the temporary suspension of production and stores closures mainly during the first half of 2020; |
• | higher inventories of €39,486 thousand in 2020 related to unsold stock due to COVID-19 adverse effect on Zegna sales (compared to an increase in inventories of €5,400 thousand in 2019); and |
• | lower trade payables including customer advances due to contraction of the activities; |
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partially offset by:
• | a decrease in trade receivables of €35,675 thousand in 2020, driven by lower revenue volumes especially in the wholesale channel, compared to an increase of €8,377 thousand in 2019. |
Net cash flows from/(used in) investing activities
2021 compared to 2020
Net cash flows used in investing activities amounted to €82,004 thousand in 2021 compared to net cash flows from investing activities of €92,572 thousand in 2020, representing a change of €174,576 thousand, primarily attributable to: (i) lower net proceeds of €70,904 thousand from the disposal of current financial assets and derivative instruments (€15,963 thousand in 2021 compared to €86,867 thousand in 2020), (ii) higher payments for property plant and equipment of €52,069 thousand (€79,699 thousand in 2021, including €45,817 thousand for the purchase of a building in London which was part of the Disposition, compared to €27,630 thousand in 2020) and (iii) lower proceeds from disposals of non-current financial assets of €44,443 thousand, driven by the receipt of the full repayment in 2020 of a loan granted to Tom Ford for a total of €40,824 thousand.
2020 compared to 2019
Net cash flows from investing activities increased by €8,611 thousand from €83,961 thousand in 2019 to €92,572 thousand in 2020. The increase was primarily attributable to (i) higher proceeds from disposals of non-current financial assets for €45,979 thousand driven by the full repayment in February 2020 of the loan granted to Tom Ford for a total of €40,824 thousand, including accrued interest, (ii) lower investments in property plant and equipment of €18,483 thousand as a result of Zegna’s measures to preserve liquidity in connection with COVID-19 pandemic, and (iii) lower cash outflows for business combinations of €7,091 thousand, driven by the impact of the acquisition of Dondi in 2019, and (iv) lower payments for purchases of non-current financial assets of €6,987 thousand, partially offset by (v) lower proceeds from disposals of current financial assets and derivative instruments for €74,221 thousand.
Net cash flow used in financing activities
2021 compared to 2020
Net cash flows used in financing activities for the year ended December 31, 2021 amounted to €64,105 thousand compared to €49,052 thousand in 2020. The increase in cash flows used in financing activities was primarily attributable to (i) net repayments of borrowings of €36,640 thousand in 2021 compared to net proceeds from borrowings of €44,323 thousand in 2020, (ii) payments of €40,253 thousand for the acquisition of non-controlling interests in 2021 (€30,653 thousand for the acquisition of an additional 5% interest in Thom Browne and €9,600 thousand for the acquisition of an additional 10% interest in Lanificio), (iii) the cash distributed as part of the Disposition for €26,272 thousand in 2021, and (iv) higher payments of lease liabilities of €9,912 thousand reflecting new store openings and lower rent reductions received as a result of COVID-19 pandemic, partially offset by the net cash proceeds from the Business Combination of €138,649 thousand.
The following table shows a breakdown of the net cash proceeds from the business combination:
(Euro thousands) | ||||
Proceeds from issuance of ordinary shares upon Business Combination | 310,739 | |||
Proceeds from issuance of ordinary shares to PIPE Investors | 331,385 | |||
Purchase of own shares from Monterubello | (455,000 | ) | ||
Payments of transaction costs related to the Business Combination | (48,475 | ) | ||
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Net cash proceeds from the Business Combination | 138,649 |
2020 compared to 2019
Net cash flows used in financing activities decreased by €218,434 thousand from €267,486 thousand in 2019 to €49,052 thousand in 2020. The decrease in cash flows used in financing activities was primarily attributable to (i) higher proceeds of borrowings of €134,511 thousand, (ii) lower repayments of borrowings of €51,822 thousand, (iii) lower payments for lease liabilities for €19,761 mainly as a result of lease renegotiation and rent reductions to face COVID-19 pandemic and (iv) €13,191 lower dividend payments as a measure to preserve Zegna group liquidity in connection with the COVID-19 pandemic.
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Capital Expenditure
Capital expenditure is defined as the sum of cash outflows that result in additions to property, plant and equipment and intangible assets.
The following table shows a breakdown of capital expenditure by category for each of the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands) | At December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
Payments for property, plant and equipment | 79,699 | 27,630 | 46,113 | |||||||||
Payments for intangible assets | 14,627 | 11,524 | 13,392 | |||||||||
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Capital expenditure | 94,326 | 39,154 | 59,505 |
Capital expenditure for years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019 was €94,326 thousand, €39,154 thousand and €59,505 thousand, respectively.
In 2021, payments for property, plant and equipment included €46 million related to the purchase of a building in London that was subsequently part of the Disposition.
The majority of the Group’s other capital expenditure investments are related to store network development (new store openings, store renewals or relocations, or maintenance) and amounted to €26 million, €19 million and €39 million for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively. The investments in this area for the year ended December 31, 2021 were mostly in APAC and amounted to €21 million for the Zegna segment network (of which €8 million related to new store openings, €11 million related to relocations and renewals and €2 million for other investments) and €5 million for the Thom Browne segment, primarily related to new openings
Other relevant investments mainly related to (i) the production area for both apparel and textile for €4 million, €5 million and €8 million for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively, (ii) the information technology area for €7 million, €8 million and €9 million for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively and (iii) the real estate area (which was subsequently disposed of as part of the Disposition), for €6 million, €5 million and €2 million for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively, and primarily related to the renovation of a building in 61W23rd street in New York.
The most relevant investments in information technology were related to a business transformation project focused on reviewing and evolving order to cash, logistics and distribution, retail operations and point-of-sale processes and amounted to €8 million, of which €3 million, €2 million and €3 million for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respective. This business transformation is still in progress at the date of this prospectus and additional investments will be required in future periods.
Contractual Obligations
The following table summarizes payments due under our significant contractual commitments at December 31, 2021:
(Euro thousands) | Contractual cash flows | |||||||||||||||||||
Carrying amount at December 31, 2021 | Within 1 year | Within 2 Years | Within 3 years | Beyond | ||||||||||||||||
Derivative financial instruments | 14,138 | 14,138 | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||
Trade payables and customer advances | 223,037 | 223,037 | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||
Borrowings | 628,938 | 161,550 | 283,736 | 135,541 | 56,414 | |||||||||||||||
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Lease liabilities | 438,052 | 112,713 | 98,101 | 69,827 | 186,951 | |||||||||||||||
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Other current and non-current financial liabilities | 201,371 | 33,984 | 29,816 | — | 137,571 | |||||||||||||||
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Total | 1,505,536 | 545,422 | 411,653 | 205,368 | 380,936 |
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Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus)
Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) is defined as the sum of financial borrowings (current and non-current), derivative financial instruments and bonds, loans and certain other financial liabilities (recorded within other non-current financial liabilities in the consolidated statement of financial position), net of cash and cash equivalents, derivative financial instruments and certain other current financial assets. Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) is a non-IFRS measure. See “—Non-IFRS Financial Measures” for important information on non-IFRS measures.
Zegna’s management believes that Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) is useful to monitor the level of net liquidity and financial resources available to Zegna. Zegna’s management believes this non-IFRS measure aids management, investors and analysts to analyze Zegna’s financial position and financial resources available, and to compare Zegna’s financial position and financial resources available with that of other companies.
The following table sets forth the calculation of Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) for the years ended December 31, 2021 and 2020:
(Euro thousands) | At December 31, | |||||||
2021 | 2020 | |||||||
Non-current borrowings | 471,646 | 558,722 | ||||||
Current borrowings | 157,292 | 106,029 | ||||||
Derivative financial instruments - Liabilities | 14,138 | 13,192 | ||||||
Other non-current financial liabilities (bonds and other)(*) | 7,976 | 8,065 | ||||||
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Total borrowings, other financial liabilities and derivatives | 651,052 | 686,008 | ||||||
Cash and cash equivalents | (459,791 | ) | (317,291 | ) | ||||
Derivative financial instruments - Assets | (1,786 | ) | (11,848 | ) | ||||
Other current financial assets (securities)(**) | (334,244 | ) | (350,163 | ) | ||||
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Total cash and cash equivalents, other current financial assets and derivatives | (795,821 | ) | (679,302 | ) | ||||
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Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) | (144,769 | ) | 6,706 |
(*) | Includes only the bonds and other components of the “Other non-current financial liabilities” line item from Zegna’s consolidated statement of financial position. |
(**) | Includes only the securities component of the “Other current financial assets” line item from Zegna’s consolidated statement of financial position. |
Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) amounted to €(144,769) thousand at December 31, 2021 compared to Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) of €6,706 thousand at December 31, 2020, reflecting a change of €151,475 thousand that was mainly due to (i) an increase in cash and cash equivalents of €142,500 thousand and (ii) net repayments of borrowings (current and non-current) of €36,640 thousand, partially offset by a decrease of €15,919 thousand in securities held by the Group. The increase in cash and cash equivalents was primarily driven by net cash flows from operating activities of €281,155 thousand, partially offset by net cash flows used in investing activities of €82,004 thousand and net cash flows used in financing activities of €64,105 thousand. For additional information relating to the increase in cash and cash equivalents see “—Cash Flows”.
The main components of Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) are further explained below.
Borrowings
Zegna enters into and manages debt facilities centrally in order to satisfy the short and medium-term needs of each of its subsidiaries based on criteria of efficiency and cost-effectiveness. Zegna has historically entered into and maintained with a diversified pool of lenders a total amount of committed credit lines that is considered consistent with its needs and suitable to ensure at any time the liquidity needed to satisfy and comply with all of its financial commitments, as well as guaranteeing an adequate level of operational flexibility for any expansion programs.
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The key terms of Zegna’s credit facilities and the amount outstanding at December 31, 2021 are shown in the tables below, in thousands of Euros, unless otherwise indicated.
(Euro thousands) | Interest rates (bps) | Amount | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 | 2026 | |||||||||||||||||||
Fixed | 0.00% - 1.25% (*) | 210,685 | 75,013 | 85,007 | 4,618 | 33,978 | 12,069 | |||||||||||||||||||
Variable | 0.60% - 1.75% (*) | 418,253 | 82,279 | 196,041 | 129,934 | 9,999 | — | |||||||||||||||||||
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Total | 628,938 | 157,292 | 281,048 | 134,552 | 43,977 | 12,069 |
* | Represents the spread over the variable component of the interest rate, which is generally based on Euribor. |
For additional information see Note 33 - Borrowings to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
Debt covenants
Certain of Zegna’s borrowings are subject to financial covenants requiring Zegna to maintain a ratio of Net Financial Indebtedness to EBITDA lower than 3.0 (calculated on an annual basis based on definitions specified in the related agreements, which differ from the similarly named non-IFRS measures included elsewhere in this prospectus), as well as negative pledges, pari passu, cross-default and change of control clauses. Failure to comply with these covenants may require Zegna to fully repay on demand the outstanding amounts. At December 31, 2021 Zegna had Net Financial (Cash Surplus) to EBITDA (calculated based on the related borrowing agreements). At December 31, 2020 Zegna had Net Financial Indebtedness to EBITDA (calculated based on the related borrowing agreements) of 0.2, therefore Zegna was in compliance with this covenant. Additionally, at December 31, 2021 and 2020 Zegna was in compliance with all other covenants.
Derivative financial instruments
Zegna enters into certain derivative contracts in the course of its risk management activities, primarily to hedge the interest rate risk on its bank debt and the currency risk on sales made in currencies other than the Euro. Zegna only enters into these contracts for hedging purposes as Zegna’s financial management policy does not permit trading in financial instruments for speculative purposes. Derivative financial instruments meeting the hedge requirements of IFRS 9 are accounted for using hedge accounting. Changes in the fair value of derivative financial instruments not qualifying for hedge accounting are recognized in profit or loss in the relevant reporting period. The interest rate and currency derivatives used by Zegna are over the counter (OTC) instruments, meaning those negotiated bilaterally with market counterparties, and the determination of their current value is based on valuation techniques that use input parameters (such as interest rate curves, foreign exchange rates, etc.) observable on the market (level 2 of the fair value hierarchy defined in IFRS 13). Derivatives are measured at fair value each reporting date by taking as a reference the applicable foreign currency exchange rates or the interest rates and yield curves observable at commonly quoted intervals.
The following table sets forth Zegna’s outstanding hedges at December 31, 2021 and 2020:
(Euro thousands) | At December 31, 2021 | At December 31, 2020 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Notional Amount | Positive Fair Value | Negative Fair Value | Notional Amount | Positive Fair Value | Negative Fair Value | |||||||||||||||||||
Foreign currency exchange risk | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Forward contracts | 550,734 | 1,786 | (11,726 | ) | 347,679 | 11,848 | (4,918 | ) | ||||||||||||||||
Deal-Contingent Option | 109,244 | — | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||
Interest rate risk | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Interest rate swaps | 323,816 | — | (2,412 | ) | 274,336 | — | (5,515 | ) | ||||||||||||||||
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Total derivatives – Hedging | 983,794 | 1,786 | (14,138 | ) | 622,015 | 11,848 | (10,433 | ) | ||||||||||||||||
Elah Dufour Option | — | — | — | — | — | (2,759 | ) | |||||||||||||||||
Total trading derivatives | — | — | — | — | — | (2,759 | ) | |||||||||||||||||
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Total derivatives instruments - Asset/(Liabilities) | 983,794 | 1,786 | (14,138 | ) | 622,015 | 11,848 | (13,192 | ) |
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For additional information see Note 26 - Derivative financial instruments to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
Other non-current financial liabilities (bonds and other)
At December 31, 2021 bonds and other related to other loans granted by a minority shareholder of a Zegna subsidiary. In October 2021 the Board of Directors of Zegna decided to early redeem the non-convertible debenture loans for the full principal amount of €4,287 thousand and the bonds were fully repaid in November 2021 (the bonds amounted to €4,287 thousand at December 31, 2020).
Cash and cash equivalents
The table below sets forth the breakdown of Zegna’s cash and cash equivalents at December 31, 2021 and 2020.
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | At December 31, | Increase/(Decrease) | ||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | |||||||||||||
Cash on hand | 1,651 | 535 | 1,116 | 208.6 | % | |||||||||||
Bank balances | 458,140 | 316,756 | 141,384 | 44.6 | % | |||||||||||
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Cash and cash equivalents | 459,791 | 317,291 | 142,500 | 44.9 | % |
Zegna may be subject to restrictions which limit its ability to use cash. In particular, cash held in China is subject to certain repatriation restrictions and may only be repatriated as dividends. Zegna does not believe that such transfer restrictions have any adverse impacts on its ability to meet liquidity requirements. Cash held in China at December 31, 2021 amounted to €60,381 thousand (€43,388 thousand at December 31, 2020). Certain restrictions over cash also exist in Argentina; however, such restrictions do not significantly impact Zegna as cash held in Argentina amounted to €244 thousand at December 31, 2021 (€265 thousand at December 31, 2020).
Other current financial assets (securities)
The table below sets forth the breakdown of securities included within other current financial assets at December 31, 2021 and 2020.
(Euro thousands, except percentages) | At December 31, | Increase/ (Decrease) | ||||||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2021 vs 2020 | % | |||||||||||||
Securities | ||||||||||||||||
Fair value through profit and loss | ||||||||||||||||
Insurance contracts | 113,919 | 107,188 | 6,731 | 6.3 | % | |||||||||||
Fixed income | 68,947 | 88,011 | (19,064 | ) | (21.7 | )% | ||||||||||
Real estate funds | 32,898 | 29,073 | 3,825 | 13.2 | % | |||||||||||
Equity | 25,408 | 24,843 | 565 | 2.3 | % | |||||||||||
Hedge funds | 41,483 | 36,511 | 4,972 | 13.6 | % | |||||||||||
Private equity | 15,925 | 10,583 | 5,342 | 50.5 | % | |||||||||||
Private debt | 7,945 | 6,894 | 1,051 | 15.2 | % | |||||||||||
Money market funds | 2,007 | 19,223 | (17,216 | ) | (89.6 | )% | ||||||||||
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Total fair value through profit and loss | 308,532 | 322,326 | (13,794 | ) | (4.3 | )% | ||||||||||
Fair value through other comprehensive income | ||||||||||||||||
Floating income | 20,687 | 22,663 | (1,976 | ) | (8.7 | )% | ||||||||||
Fixed income | 5,025 | 5,174 | (149 | ) | (2.9 | )% | ||||||||||
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Total fair value through other comprehensive income | 25,712 | 27,837 | (2,125 | ) | (7.6 | )% | ||||||||||
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Total securities (recorded within other current financial assets) | 334,244 | 350,163 | (15,919 | ) | (4.5 | )% |
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Off-Balance Sheet Arrangements
Zegna has provided a financial guarantee to Tom Ford (an associate of Zegna) in relation to its payment obligations under a bank loan for an amount of $7,500 thousand issued to Tom Ford in 2020 and maturing in March 2025. The guarantee was still effective as of the date of this in this prospectus and no amounts have been claimed under the guarantee.
Recent Developments
See Note 44 - Subsequent events to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
Critical Accounting Estimates
Zegna has selected accounting policies that it believes present fairly its consolidated financial condition and results of operations. These accounting policies are applied in a consistent manner, unless stated otherwise, which will mainly be a result of the application of new accounting pronouncements. For a summary of all of Zegna’s significant accounting policies, refer to Note 3 – Summary of significant accounting policies to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
The preparation of consolidated financial statements in accordance with IFRS issued by the International Accounting Standards Board requires management to make estimates, judgments and assumptions in order to determine the carrying amounts of certain assets, liabilities, income and expense items, as well as certain amounts disclosed in the explanatory notes to the financial statements relating to contingent assets and liabilities. The estimates and assumptions used are those deemed by management to be the most pertinent and accurate in view of Zegna’s circumstances and past experience, based on elements that are known when the financial statements are prepared.
The estimates and underlying assumptions are reviewed periodically and continuously by Zegna’s management. If the items subject to estimates do not perform as assumed, then the actual results could differ from the estimates, which would require adjustment accordingly.
A description of the critical accounting policies which Zegna management believes have the most significant impact on its consolidated financial statements is provided below:
Impairment of non-current assets with definite useful lives
Non-current assets with definite useful lives include property, plant and equipment, investment property and intangible assets. Zegna periodically reviews the carrying amount of non-current assets with definite useful lives when events and circumstances indicate that an asset may be impaired. Impairment tests are performed by comparing the carrying amount and the recoverable amount of the CGU. The recoverable amount is the higher of the CGU’s fair value less costs of disposal and its value in use. In assessing the value in use, the estimated future cash flows are discounted to their present value using a pre-tax discount rate that reflects current market assessments of the time value of money and the risks specific to the CGU. For additional information refer to Note 19 - Property, plant and equipment to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
The calculation of value in use for property, plant and equipment and right-of-use assets is most sensitive to the assumptions relating to discount rates, the growth rates used to extrapolate cash flows beyond the forecast period and the revenue compounded annual rate of growth (“CAGR”).
For the year ended December 31, 2021, impairment losses were recognized for DOS assets in the Zegna segment in the amount of €8,692 thousand, of which €6,486 thousand related to right-of-use assets, €2,168 thousand to property, plant and equipment and €38 thousand related to intangible assets.
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Based on the impairment test performed over corporate assets for 2021, the headroom amounted to €1,277 million for the Zegna segment and €325 million for the Thom Browne segment.
Recoverability of goodwill and brands with indefinite useful life
In accordance with IAS 36 — Impairment of Assets, goodwill and brands with indefinite useful life are not amortized and are tested for impairment annually or more frequently if facts or circumstances indicate that the asset may be impaired. The impairment test is performed by comparing the carrying amount and the recoverable amount of the CGU. The recoverable amount of the CGU is the higher of its fair value, less costs of disposal and its value in use. For additional information refer to Note 18 – Intangible assets to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
In relation to goodwill, the main assumptions to calculate the recoverable amount are the following:
• | Terminal value: determined using the perpetuity method at a long-term growth rate which represents the present value, at the last year of projection, of all expected future cash flows; |
• | The growth rate used to calculate the terminal value was 1.5%, which has been determined according to the diverging inflation and GDP outlook in related geographical areas; |
• | The rate used to discount cash flows was calculated using the weighted average cost of capital (WACC). For the year ended December 31, 2021, the WACC used for discounting purposes ranged between 6.40% and 10.65% (between 6.02% and 17.45% at December 31, 2020). The WACC was calculated ad hoc for each CGU subject to impairment, considering the parameters specific to the geographical area: market risk premium and sovereign bond yield. |
The calculation of value in use for all CGUs is most sensitive to the following assumptions:
• | Discount rates; |
• | Growth rates used to extrapolate cash flows beyond the forecast period; |
• | EBITDA growth rate over the explicit period of the business plan, which has been assessed taking into consideration the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic on the 2021 performance of the Group. |
Based on the impairment test performed over goodwill for 2021, the headroom amounted to €615 million at December 31, 2021 (€430 million at December 31, 2020).
Based on the impairment test performed over intangible assets with an indefinite useful life, which relate to the Thom Browne brand, no impairment was recognized for the years ended December 31, 2010, 2020 and 2019.
Recoverability of deferred tax assets
The deferred tax assets are recognized on the premise that it is more likely than not that Zegna will be able to generate sufficient and suitable future taxable profits from which the reversal of the asset can be deducted. If Zegna is unable to generate sufficient taxable profits in certain jurisdictions, or if there is a significant change in the actual effective tax rates or the time period within which the underlying temporary differences become taxable or deductible, Zegna could be required to write-off any deferred tax assets, resulting in an increase in its effective tax rate and an adverse impact on future operating results.
For additional information refer to Note 16 – Income taxes to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
Derivatives
Fair value of derivatives not traded in an active market is determined using a mark-to-model valuation technique. Where active markets exist for its component parts, then fair value is determined on the basis of the relevant market prices for the component parts.
Zegna entered into some business combination agreements granting put options to non-controlling interests, for which it recognizes a financial liability corresponding to the present value of the exercise price of the option. The liability is subsequently remeasured at fair value at the end of each period. For additional information refer to Note 34 – Other current and non-current financial liabilities to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
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Valuation techniques that are based on significant inputs that are observable are referred to as Level 2 valuations, while those based on techniques that use significant unobservable inputs are referred to as Level 3 valuations. Estimates and assumptions are made with the support of the corporate functions and, where appropriate, of independent specialists, and are regularly reviewed. For additional information refer to Note 26 – Derivative financial instruments to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
Provisions for obsolete inventory
Since Zegna’s products are subject to market trends and changes in fashion trends, product inventories at the end of the season are subject to impairment. Specifically, the provision for obsolete inventory of finished products reflects management’s estimate of the expected impairment losses on the products of the collections of previous seasons, considering the ability to sell them through Zegna’s various distribution channels.
Generally, impairment assumptions involve percentages of impairment that become greater the older the collections are, so as to reflect the decline in selling prices in secondary channels (mainly outlets), and on the other hand, the decrease in the probability of selling them as time goes by.
The provision for obsolete raw materials reflects management’s estimates of the decline in the probability they will be used based on the calculation of slow-moving raw materials.
Provision for risks and charges
Zegna recognizes a liability when facing legal and tax disputes and lawsuits if it believes it is probable that they will require an outflow of financial resources and a reliable estimate can be made of the amount of the potential losses. Given the uncertainty surrounding the outcome of these proceedings, it is hard to reliably estimate the outflow of resources that will be required to settle them, therefore the amount of the provisions for legal and tax disputes may change as a result of future developments in the outstanding proceedings. Zegna monitors the status of ongoing lawsuits and proceedings and consults with its legal advisors as well as legal and tax experts.
Fair value estimates
Fair value is defined as the price that would be received for sale of an asset or paid for transfer of a liability, in an orderly transaction between market participants at the measurement date. IFRS 13 - Fair Value Measurement (“IFRS 13”) establishes a three-tier fair value hierarchy, which prioritizes the inputs used in measuring fair value. The hierarchy gives the highest priority to unadjusted quoted prices in active markets for identical assets or liabilities (Level 1 measurements) and the lowest priority to unobservable inputs (Level 3 measurements). These tiers include:
• | Level 1, defined as observable inputs such as quoted prices (unadjusted) for identical instruments in active markets; |
• | Level 2, defined as inputs other than quoted prices in active markets that are either directly or indirectly observable such as quoted prices for similar instruments in active markets or quoted prices for identical or similar instruments in markets that are not active; and |
• | Level 3, defined as unobservable inputs in which little or no market data exists, therefore requiring an entity to develop its own assumptions, such as valuations derived from valuation techniques in which one or more significant inputs or significant value drivers are unobservable. |
In some circumstances, the inputs used to measure fair value might be categorized within different levels of the fair value hierarchy. In those instances, the fair value measurement is categorized in its entirety in the fair value hierarchy based on the lowest level input that is significant to the fair value measurement.
For additional information see Note 41 - Qualitative and quantitative information on financial risks to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
Warrants
Warrants give the holder the right, but not the obligation, to subscribe to the Company’s shares at a fixed price for a specified period of time and subject to the terms of redemption. Until warrant holders acquire the Company’s ordinary shares upon exercise of such warrants, they will have no rights with respect to the Company’s shares. These instruments, principally due to an option to replace them upon specific events, including share dividends, extraordinary dividends or reorganizations, which results in the
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Company delivering a variable number of shares, are accounted for as a current financial liability through profit and loss in accordance with the provisions of IAS 32.
Management measured the public warrants at fair value by using the Euro equivalent of the closing price of warrants on the NYSE. Management estimated the fair value of the private warrants by Monte Carlo simulation model, using as key inputs the Company’s share price, risk-free rate, implied public warrant volatility, the warrants’ maturity, and the public warrants’ market price.
Non-IFRS Financial Measures
Zegna’s management monitors and evaluates operating and financial performance using several non-IFRS financial measures including: adjusted earnings before interest and taxes (“Adjusted EBIT”), adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization (“Adjusted EBITDA”), Adjusted Profit/(Loss), Adjusted Basic Earnings per Share and Adjusted Diluted Earnings Per Share, Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) and Trade Working Capital. Zegna’s management believes that these non-IFRS financial measures provide useful and relevant information regarding Zegna’s financial performance and financial condition, and improve the ability of management and investors to assess and compare the financial performance and financial position of Zegna with those of other companies. They also provide comparable measures that facilitate management’s ability to identify operational trends, as well as make decisions regarding future spending, resource allocations and other strategic and operational decisions. While similar measures are widely used in the industry in which Zegna operates, the financial measures that Zegna uses may not be comparable to other similarly named measures used by other companies nor are they intended to be substitutes for measures of financial performance or financial position as prepared in accordance with IFRS.
Adjusted EBIT
Adjusted EBIT is defined as profit or loss before income taxes plus financial income, financial expenses, exchange losses/(gains), result from investments accounted for using the equity method, impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method, adjusted for income and costs which are significant in nature and that management considers not reflective of underlying operating activities, including, for one or all of the years presented, costs related to the Business Combination, severance indemnities and provision for severance expenses, impairment of property, plant and equipment and right-of-use assets, certain costs related to lease agreements and certain other items (as further described below).
Zegna’s management uses Adjusted EBIT for internal reporting to assess performance and as part of the forecasting, budgeting and decision-making processes as it provides additional transparency regarding Zegna’s underlying operating performance. Zegna’s management believes this non-IFRS measure is useful because it excludes items that management believes are not indicative of Zegna’s underlying operating performance and allows management to view operating trends, perform analytical comparisons and benchmark performance between periods and among segments. Zegna’s management also believes that Adjusted EBIT is useful for investors and analysts to better understand how management assesses Zegna’s underlying operating performance on a consistent basis and to compare Zegna’s performance with that of other companies. Accordingly, management believes that Adjusted EBIT provides useful information to third party stakeholders in understanding and evaluating Zegna’s operating results.
The following table sets forth a reconciliation of (Loss)/Profit for the year to Adjusted EBIT for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands) | For the year ended December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
(Loss)/Profit for the year | (127,661 | ) | (46,540 | ) | 25,439 | |||||||
Income taxes | 30,702 | 14,983 | 43,794 | |||||||||
Financial income | (45,889 | ) | (34,352 | ) | (22,061 | ) | ||||||
Financial expenses | 43,823 | 48,072 | 37,492 | |||||||||
Exchange losses/(gains) | 7,791 | (13,455 | ) | 2,441 | ||||||||
Result from investments accounted for using the equity method | (2,794 | ) | 4,205 | 1,534 | ||||||||
Impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method | — | 4,532 | — | |||||||||
Costs related to the Business Combination (1) | 205,059 | — | — |
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(Euro thousands) | For the year ended December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
Costs related to lease agreements (2) | 15,512 | 3,000 | — | |||||||||
Severance indemnities and provision for severance expenses (3) | 8,996 | 12,308 | 9,777 | |||||||||
Impairment of property, plant and equipment and right-of-use assets (4) | 8,692 | 19,725 | 8,858 | |||||||||
Other (5) | 4,884 | 7,535 | — | |||||||||
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| |||||||
Adjusted EBIT | 149,115 | 20,013 | 107,274 |
(1) | Costs related to the Business Combination include: |
(a) | €114,963 thousand relating to share-based payments for listing services recognized as the excess of the fair value of Zegna ordinary shares issued as part of the Business Combination and the fair value of IIAC’s identifiable net assets acquired. This amount is recorded within the line item “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss and it is related to Zegna segment. |
(b) | €37,906 thousand for the issuance of 5,031,250 Zegna ordinary shares to the holders of IIAC class B shares to be held in escrow. The release of these shares from escrow is subject to achievement of certain targets within a seven-year period. This amount is recorded within the line item “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss and it is related to Zegna segment. |
(c) | €34,092 thousand for transaction costs related to the Business Combination incurred by Zegna, including costs for bank services, legal advisors and other consultancy fees. This amount is recorded within the line item “purchased, outsourced and other costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss and it is related to Zegna segment. |
(d) | €10,916 thousand for the Zegna family’s grant of a one-time €1,500 gift to each employee of the Zegna group as result of the Company’s listing on NYSE completed on December 20, 2021. This amount is recorded within the line item “personnel costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss and it is related to Zegna segment for €10,120 thousand and to Thom Browne segment for €796 thousand. |
(e) | €5,380 thousand relating to grant of performance share units, which each represent the right to receive one Zegna ordinary share, to the Group’s Chief Executive Officer, other Zegna directors, key executives with strategic responsibilities and other employees of the Group, all subject to certain vesting conditions. This amount is recorded within the line item “personnel costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss and it is related to Zegna segment for €5,141 thousand and to Thom Browne segment for €239 thousand. For additional information please refer to Note 42—Related party transactions of the Consolidated Financial Statements. |
(f) | €1,236 thousand related to the fair value of private warrants issued, pursuant to the Business Combination, to certain Zegna non-executive directors. This amount is recorded within the line item “personnel costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss and it is related to Zegna segment. |
(g) | €566 thousand related to the write-off of non-refundable prepaid premiums for directors’ and officers’ insurance. This amount is recorded within the line item “personnel costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss and it is related to Zegna segment. |
(2) | Costs related to lease agreements for the year ended December 31, 2021, are related to Zegna segment and include (i) €12,192 thousand of provisions relating to a lease agreement in the US following an unfavorable legal claim judgment against the Group (recorded within “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), (ii) €1,492 thousand of legal expenses related to a lease agreement in Italy (recorded within “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss) and (iii) €1,829 thousand in accrued property taxes related to a lease agreement in the UK (recorded within “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). Costs related to lease agreements for the year ended December 31, 2020 include €3,000 thousand for legal expenses related to a lease agreement in the UK, incurred in the second half of 2020 (recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). |
(3) | Zegna incurred costs for severance indemnities of €8,996 thousand, €12,308 thousand and €9,777 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively. These amounts are recorded within the line item “personnel costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss and are related to Zegna segment. |
(4) | Primarily includes impairments of right-of-use assets for €5,981 thousand, €15,716 thousand and €7,980 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019 respectively, and impairments of property plant and equipment for €654 thousand, €4,011 thousand and €817 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively. In particular, the impairment of right-of-use assets and property, plant and equipment primarily relates to the impairment of DOSs of Zegna segment. Impairments were higher in 2020 as a result of the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic on the Group’s operations. |
(5) | Other adjustments for the year ended December 31, 2021 are related to Zegna segment and include €6,006 thousand related to losses incurred by Agnona subsequent to the Group’s sale of a majority stake in Agnona in January 2021, for which the Group was required to compensate the company in accordance with the terms of the related sale agreement, as well as €144 thousand relating to the write down of the Group’s remaining 30% stake in Agnona (both of which are recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), partially offset by other income of €1,266 thousand relating to the sale of rights to build or develop airspace above a building in the United States (this amount is recorded within the line item “other income” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). Other adjustments for the year ended December 31, 2020 are related to Zegna segment and include (i) donations of €4,482 thousand to charitable organizations in Italy and abroad to support initiatives related to the COVID-19 pandemic (this amount is recorded within the line item “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), (ii) impairment on assets held for sale of €3,053 thousand in 2020, of which €988 thousand is recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” and €2,065 relates to the write down of inventories and is recorded within the line item “cost of raw materials and consumables” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
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Adjusted EBITDA
Adjusted EBITDA is defined as profit or loss before income taxes plus, financial income, financial expenses, exchange losses/(gains), depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets, result from investments accounted for using the equity method, impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method, adjusted for income and costs which are significant in nature and that management considers not reflective of underlying operating activities, including, for one or all of the years presented, costs related to the Business Combination, severance indemnities and provision for severance expenses, certain costs related to lease agreements and certain other items (as further described below).
Zegna’s management uses Adjusted EBITDA to understand and evaluate Zegna’s underlying operating performance. Zegna’s management believes this non-IFRS measure is useful because it excludes items that management believes are not indicative of Zegna’s underlying operating performance and allows management to view operating trends, perform analytical comparisons and benchmark performance between periods. Zegna’s management also believes that Adjusted EBITDA is useful for investors and analysts to better understand how management assesses Zegna’s underlying operating performance on a consistent basis and to compare Zegna’s performance with that of other companies. Accordingly, management believes that Adjusted EBITDA provides useful information to third party stakeholders in understanding and evaluating Zegna’s operating results.
The following table sets forth the calculation of Adjusted EBITDA and presents a reconciliation of (Loss)/Profit for the year to Adjusted EBITDA for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands) | For the year ended December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
(Loss)/Profit for the year | (127,661 | ) | (46,540 | ) | 25,439 | |||||||
Income taxes | 30,702 | 14,983 | 43,794 | |||||||||
Financial income | (45,889 | ) | (34,352 | ) | (22,061 | ) | ||||||
Financial expenses | 43,823 | 48,072 | 37,492 | |||||||||
Exchange losses/(gains) | 7,791 | (13,455 | ) | 2,441 | ||||||||
Depreciation, amortization and impairment of assets | 163,367 | 185,930 | 177,068 | |||||||||
Result from investments accounted for using the equity method | (2,794 | ) | 4,205 | 1,534 | ||||||||
Impairments of investments accounted for using the equity method | — | 4,532 | — | |||||||||
Costs related to the Business Combination (1) | 205,059 | — | — | |||||||||
Costs related to lease agreements (2) | 15,512 | 3,000 | — | |||||||||
Severance indemnities and provision for severance expenses (3) | 8,996 | 12,308 | 9,777 | |||||||||
Other (4) | 4,884 | 7,535 | — | |||||||||
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| |||||||
Adjusted EBITDA | 303,790 | 186,218 | 275,484 |
(1) | Costs related to the Business Combination include: |
(a) | €114,963 thousand relating to share-based payments for listing services recognized as the excess of the fair value of Zegna ordinary shares issued as part of the Business Combination and the fair value of IIAC’s identifiable net assets acquired. |
(b) | €37,906 thousand for the issuance of 5,031,250 Zegna ordinary shares to the holders of IIAC class B shares to be held in escrow. The release of these shares from escrow is subject to achievement of certain targets within a seven-year period. |
(c) | €34,092 thousand for transaction costs related to the Business Combination incurred by Zegna, including costs for bank services, legal advisors and other consultancy fees. |
(d) | €10,916 thousand for the Zegna family’s grant of a one-time €1,500 gift to each employee of the Zegna group as result of the Company’s listing on NYSE completed on December 20, 2021. |
(e) | €5,380 thousand relating to grant of performance share units, which each represent the right to receive one Zegna ordinary share, to the Group’s Chief Executive Officer, other Zegna directors, key executives with strategic responsibilities and other employees of the Group, all subject to certain vesting conditions. For additional information please refer to Note 42—Related party transactions of the Consolidated Financial Statements. |
(f) | €1,236 thousand related to the fair value of private warrants issued, pursuant to the Business Combination, to certain Zegna non-executive directors. |
(g) | €566 thousand related to the write-off of non-refundable prepaid premiums for directors’ and officers’ insurance. |
(2) | Costs related to lease agreements for the year ended December 31, 2021, include (i) €12,192 thousand of provisions relating to a lease agreement in the US following an unfavorable legal claim judgment against the Group (recorded within “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), (ii) €1,492 thousand of legal expenses related to a lease agreement in Italy (recorded within “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss) and (iii) €1,829 thousand in accrued property taxes related to a lease agreement in the UK (recorded within “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). Costs related to lease agreements for the year ended December 31, 2020 include €3,000 thousand for legal expenses related to a lease agreement in the UK, incurred in the second half of 2020 (recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). |
(3) | Zegna incurred costs for severance indemnities of €8,996 thousand, €12,308 thousand and €9,777 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively. These amounts are recorded within the line item “personnel costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
(4) | Other adjustments for the year ended December 31, 2021 include €6,006 thousand related to losses incurred by Agnona subsequent to the Group’s sale of a majority stake in Agnona in January 2021, for which the Group was required to compensate the company in accordance with the terms of the related sale agreement, as well as €144 thousand relating to the write down of the Group’s remaining 30% stake in Agnona (both of which are recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), partially offset by other income of €1,266 thousand relating to the sale of rights to build or develop airspace above a building in the United States (this amount is recorded within the line item “other income” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). Other adjustments for the year ended December 31, 2020 includes (i) donations of €4,482 thousand to charitable organizations in Italy and abroad to support initiatives related to the COVID-19 pandemic (this amount is recorded within the line item “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), (ii) impairment on assets held for sale of €3,053 thousand in 2020, of which €988 thousand is recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” and €2,065 relates to the write down of inventories and is recorded within the line item “cost of raw materials and consumables” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
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Adjusted Profit/(Loss)
Adjusted Profit/(Loss) represents (Loss)/Profit for the year adjusted for income and costs (net of tax effects) which are significant in nature and that management considers not reflective of underlying activities, including, for one or all of the years presented, costs related to the Business Combination, severance indemnities and provision for severance expenses, impairment of property, plant and equipment and right-of-use assets, certain costs related to lease agreements, gains on the Thom Browne option realized in connection with the exercise of the option, impairment of equity method investments and certain other items (as further described below), as well as the tax effects of the adjusting items (calculated based on the applicable tax rates of the jurisdictions where the adjustments relate).
Zegna’s management uses Adjusted Profit/(Loss) to understand and evaluate Zegna’s underlying performance. Zegna’s management believes this non-IFRS measure is useful because it excludes items that management believes are not indicative of Zegna’s underlying performance and allows management to view performance trends, perform analytical comparisons and benchmark performance between periods. Zegna’s management also believes that Adjusted Profit/(Loss) is useful for investors and analysts to better understand how management assesses Zegna’s underlying performance on a consistent basis and to compare Zegna’s performance with that of other companies. Accordingly, management believes that Adjusted Profit/(Loss) provides useful information to third party stakeholders in understanding and evaluating Zegna’s results.
The following table sets forth the calculation of Adjusted Profit/(Loss) and presents a reconciliation of (Loss)/Profit for the year to Adjusted Profit/(Loss) for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands) | For the year ended December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
(Loss)/Profit for the year | (127,661 | ) | (46,540 | ) | 25,439 | |||||||
Costs related to the Business Combination (1) | 205,332 | — | — | |||||||||
Costs related to lease agreements (2) | 15,512 | 3,000 | — | |||||||||
Severance indemnities and provision for severance expenses (3) | 8,996 | 12,308 | 9,777 | |||||||||
Impairment of property, plant and equipment and right-of-use assets (4) | 8,692 | 19,725 | 8,858 | |||||||||
Gain on Thom Browne option (5) | (20,675 | ) | — | — | ||||||||
Impairment of investments accounted for using the equity method (6) | — | 4,532 | ||||||||||
Other (7) | 4,884 | 7,535 | — | |||||||||
Tax effects on adjusting items (8) | (19,758 | ) | (5,312 | ) | (1,027 | ) | ||||||
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|
|
|
|
| |||||||
Adjusted Profit/(Loss) | 75,322 | (4,752 | ) | 43,047 |
(1) | Costs related to the Business Combination include: |
(a) | €114,963 thousand relating to share-based payments for listing services recognized as the excess of the fair value of Zegna ordinary shares issued as part of the Business Combination and the fair value of IIAC’s identifiable net assets acquired. |
(b) | €37,906 thousand for the issuance of 5,031,250 Zegna ordinary shares to the holders of IIAC class B shares to be held in escrow. The release of these shares from escrow is subject to achievement of certain targets within a seven-year period. |
(c) | €34,092 thousand for transaction costs related to the Business Combination incurred by Zegna, including costs for bank services, legal advisors and other consultancy fees. |
(d) | €10,916 thousand for the Zegna family’s grant of a one-time €1,500 gift to each employee of the Zegna group as result of the Company’s listing on NYSE completed on December 20, 2021. |
(e) | €5,380 thousand relating to grant of performance share units, which each represent the right to receive one Zegna ordinary share, to the Group’s Chief Executive Officer, other Zegna directors, key executives with strategic responsibilities and other employees of the Group, all subject to certain vesting conditions. For additional information please refer to Note 42 - Related party transactions of the Consolidated Financial Statements. |
(f) | €1,236 thousand related to the fair value of private warrants issued, pursuant to the Business Combination, to certain Zegna non-executive directors. |
(g) | €566 thousand related to the write-off of non-refundable prepaid premiums for directors’ and officers’ insurance. |
(h) | €273 thousand related to the deal contingent option entered in November 2021. The amount was recorded within the line item “foreign exchange gains/(losses)” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
(2) | Costs related to lease agreements for the year ended December 31, 2021, include (i) €12,192 thousand of provisions relating to a lease agreement in the US following an unfavorable legal claim judgment against the Group (recorded within “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), (ii) €1,492 thousand of legal expenses related to a lease agreement in Italy (recorded within “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss) and (iii) €1,829 thousand in accrued property taxes related to a lease agreement in the UK (recorded within “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). Costs related to lease agreements for the year ended December 31, 2020 include €3,000 thousand for legal expenses related to a lease agreement in the UK, incurred in the second half of 2020 (recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). |
(3) | Zegna incurred costs for severance indemnities of €8,996 thousand, €12,308 thousand and €9,777 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively. These amounts are recorded within the line item “personnel costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
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(4) | Primarily includes impairments of right-of-use assets for €5,981 thousand, €15,716 thousand and €7,980 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019 respectively, and impairments of property plant and equipment for €654 thousand, €4,011 thousand and €817 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively. In particular, the impairment of right-of-use assets and property, plant and equipment primarily relates to the impairment of DOSs. Impairments were higher in 2020 as a result of the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic on the Group’s operations. |
(5) | Reflects the financial income relating to options related to a gain of €20,675 thousand recognized following the purchase of an additional 5% of the Thom Browne Group on June 1, 2021. This amount is recorded within the line item “financial income” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
(6) | Relates to an impairment of €4,532 thousand in the Group’s investment in Tom Ford, which was recognized following a reported net loss by TFI that management considered as an indication of impairment. |
(7) | Other adjustments for the year ended December 31, 2021 include €6,006 thousand related to losses incurred by Agnona subsequent to the Group’s sale of a majority stake in Agnona in January 2021, for which the Group was required to compensate the company in accordance with the terms of the related sale agreement, as well as €144 thousand relating to the write down of the Group’s remaining 30% stake in Agnona (both of which are recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), partially offset by other income of €1,266 thousand relating to the sale of rights to build or develop airspace above a building in the United States (this amount is recorded within the line item “other income” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). Other adjustments for the year ended December 31, 2020 includes (i) donations of €4,482 thousand to charitable organizations in Italy and abroad to support initiatives related to the COVID-19 pandemic (this amount is recorded within the line item “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), (ii) impairment on assets held for sale of €3,053 thousand in 2020, of which €988 thousand is recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” and €2,065 relates to the write down of inventories and is recorded within the line item “cost of raw materials and consumables” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
(8) | Includes the tax effects of the aforementioned adjustments. |
Adjusted Basic Earnings per Share and Adjusted Diluted Earnings per Share
Adjusted Basic Earnings per Share and Adjusted Diluted Earnings per Share represent basic earnings per share and diluted earnings per share adjusted for income and costs (net of tax effects) which are significant in nature and that management considers not reflective of underlying activities, including, for one or all of the years presented, costs related to the Business Combination, severance indemnities and provision for severance expenses, impairment of property, plant and equipment and right-of-use assets, certain costs related to lease agreements, gains on the Thom Browne option realized in connection with the exercise of the option, impairment of equity method investments and certain other items (as further described below), as well as the tax effects of the adjusting items (calculated based on the applicable tax rates of the jurisdictions where the adjustments relate).
Zegna’s management uses Adjusted Basic Earnings per Share and Adjusted Diluted Earnings per Share to understand and evaluate Zegna’s underlying performance. Zegna’s management believes this non-IFRS measure is useful because it excludes items that it does not believe are indicative of its underlying performance and allows it to view operating trends, perform analytical comparisons and benchmark performance between periods. Accordingly, management believes that Adjusted Basic and Diluted Earnings per Share provides useful information to third party stakeholders in understanding and evaluating Zegna’s operating results.
For the calculation of both Adjusted Basic Earnings per Share and Adjusted Diluted Earnings per Share, basic earnings per share and diluted earnings per share the number of ordinary and potential ordinary shares outstanding for all periods reflects the share split performed as part of the Business Combination.
The following table sets forth the calculation of Adjusted Basic and Diluted Earnings per Share and provides a reconciliation of (Loss)/Profit for the year to these non-IFRS measures for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands) | For the year ended December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
(Loss)/Profit for the year | (127,661 | ) | (46,540 | ) | 25,439 | |||||||
Costs related to the Business Combination (1) | 205,332 | — | — | |||||||||
Costs related to lease agreements (2) | 15,512 | 3,000 | — | |||||||||
Severance indemnities and provision for severance expenses (3) | 8,996 | 12,308 | 9,777 | |||||||||
Impairment of property, plant and equipment and right-of-use assets (4) | 8,692 | 19,725 | 8,858 | |||||||||
Gain on Thom Browne option (5) | (20,675 | ) | — | — | ||||||||
Impairment of investments accounted for using the equity method (6) | — | 4,532 | ||||||||||
Other (7) | 4,884 | 7,535 | — | |||||||||
Tax effects on adjusting items (8) | (19,758 | ) | (5,312 | ) | (1,027 | ) | ||||||
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| |||||||
Adjusted Profit/(Loss) | 75,322 | (4,752 | ) | 43,047 | ||||||||
Impact of non-controlling interests (9) | 8,669 | 4,063 | 3,720 | |||||||||
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Adjusted Profit/(Loss) attributable to shareholders of the Parent Company | 66,653 | (8,815 | ) | 39,327 |
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(Euro thousands) | For the year ended December 31, | |||||||||||
2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||||
Weighted average number of shares for basic earnings per share | 203,499,933 | 201,489,100 | 201,561,100 | |||||||||
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| |||||||
Adjusted Basic Earnings per Share | 0.33 | (0.04 | ) | 0.20 | ||||||||
Weighted average number of shares for diluted earnings per share | 204,917,880 | 201,489,100 | 201,561,100 | |||||||||
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| |||||||
Adjusted Diluted Earnings per Share | 0.33 | (0.04 | ) | 0.20 |
(1) | Costs related to the Business Combination include: |
(a) | €114,963 thousand relating to share-based payments for listing services recognized as the excess of the fair value of Zegna ordinary shares issued as part of the Business Combination and the fair value of IIAC’s identifiable net assets acquired. |
(b) | €37,906 thousand for the issuance of 5,031,250 Zegna ordinary shares to the holders of IIAC class B shares to be held in escrow. The release of these shares from escrow is subject to achievement of certain targets within a seven-year period. |
(c) | €34,092 thousand for transaction costs related to the Business Combination incurred by Zegna, including costs for bank services, legal advisors and other consultancy fees. |
(d) | €10,916 thousand for the Zegna family’s grant of a one-time €1,500 gift to each employee of the Zegna group as result of the Company’s listing on NYSE completed on December 20, 2021. |
(e) | €5,380 thousand relating to grant of performance share units, which each represent the right to receive one Zegna ordinary share, to the Group’s Chief Executive Officer, other Zegna directors, key executives with strategic responsibilities and other employees of the Group, all subject to certain vesting conditions. For additional information please refer to Note 42—Related party transactions of the Consolidated Financial Statements. |
(f) | €1,236 thousand related to the fair value of private warrants issued, pursuant to the Business Combination, to certain Zegna non-executive directors. |
(g) | €566 thousand related to the write-off of non-refundable prepaid premiums for directors’ and officers’ insurance. |
(h) | €273 thousand related to the deal contingent option entered in November 2021. The amount was recorded within the line item “foreign exchange gains/(losses)” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
(2) | Costs related to lease agreements for the year ended December 31, 2021, include (i) €12,192 thousand of provisions relating to a lease agreement in the US following an unfavorable legal claim judgment against the Group (recorded within “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), (ii) €1,492 thousand of legal expenses related to a lease agreement in Italy (recorded within “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss) and (iii) €1,829 thousand in accrued property taxes related to a lease agreement in the UK (recorded within “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). Costs related to lease agreements for the year ended December 31, 2020 include €3,000 thousand for legal expenses related to a lease agreement in the UK, incurred in the second half of 2020 (recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). |
(3) | Zegna incurred costs for severance indemnities of €8,996 thousand, €12,308 thousand and €9,777 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively. These amounts are recorded within the line item “personnel costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
(4) | Primarily includes impairments of right-of-use assets for €5,981 thousand, €15,716 thousand and €7,980 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019 respectively, and impairments of property plant and equipment for €654 thousand, €4,011 thousand and €817 thousand for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019, respectively. In particular, the impairment of right-of-use assets and property, plant and equipment primarily relates to the impairment of DOSs. Impairments were higher in 2020 as a result of the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic on the Group’s operations. |
(5) | Reflects the financial income relating to options related to a gain of €20,675 thousand recognized following the purchase of an additional 5% of the Thom Browne Group on June 1, 2021. This amount is recorded within the line item “financial income” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
(6) | Relates to an impairment of €4,532 thousand in the Group’s investment in Tom Ford, which was recognized following a reported net loss by TFI that management considered as an indication of impairment. |
(7) | Other adjustments for the year ended December 31, 2021 include €6,006 thousand related to losses incurred by Agnona subsequent to the Group’s sale of a majority stake in Agnona in January 2021, for which the Group was required to compensate the company in accordance with the terms of the related sale agreement, as well as €144 thousand relating to the write down of the Group’s remaining 30% stake in Agnona (both of which are recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), partially offset by other income of €1,266 thousand relating to the sale of rights to build or develop airspace above a building in the United States (this amount is recorded within the line item “other income” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss). Other adjustments for the year ended December 31, 2020 includes (i) donations of €4,482 thousand to charitable organizations in Italy and abroad to support initiatives related to the COVID-19 pandemic (this amount is recorded within the line item “other operating costs” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss), (ii) impairment on assets held for sale of €3,053 thousand in 2020, of which €988 thousand is recorded within the line item “write downs and other provisions” and €2,065 relates to the write down of inventories and is recorded within the line item “cost of raw materials and consumables” in the consolidated statement of profit and loss. |
(8) | Includes the tax effects of the aforementioned adjustments. |
(9) | Represents the (Loss)/Profit for the year attributable to non-controlling interests plus the impact of non-controlling interests on the adjusting items. |
Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus)
Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) is defined as the sum of financial borrowings (current and non-current), derivative financial instruments and bonds, loans and certain other financial liabilities (recorded within other non-current financial liabilities in the consolidated statement of financial position), net of cash and cash equivalents, derivative financial instruments and certain other current financial assets.
Zegna’s management believes that Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) is useful to monitor the level of net liquidity and financial resources available to Zegna. Zegna’s management believes this non-IFRS measure aids management, investors and analysts to analyze Zegna’s financial position and financial resources available, and to compare Zegna’s financial position and financial resources available with that of other companies.
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The following table sets forth the calculation of Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) for the years ended December 31, 2021, 2020 and 2019:
(Euro thousands) | At December 31, | |||||||
2021 | 2020 | |||||||
Non-current borrowings | 471,646 | 558,722 | ||||||
Current borrowings | 157,292 | 106,029 | ||||||
Derivative financial instruments—Liabilities | 14,138 | 13,192 | ||||||
Other non-current financial liabilities (bonds and other)(*) | 7,976 | 8,065 | ||||||
|
|
|
| |||||
Total borrowings, other financial liabilities and derivatives | 651,052 | 686,008 | ||||||
Cash and cash equivalents | (459,791 | ) | (317,291 | ) | ||||
Derivative financial instruments—Assets | (1,786 | ) | (11,848 | ) | ||||
Other current financial assets (securities)(**) | (334,244 | ) | (350,163 | ) | ||||
|
|
|
| |||||
Total cash and cash equivalents, other current financial assets and derivatives | (795,821 | ) | (679,302 | ) | ||||
|
|
|
| |||||
Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) | (144,769 | ) | 6,706 |
(*) | Includes only the “bonds” and “other” components of the “Other non-current financial liabilities” line item from Zegna’s consolidated statement of financial position. |
(**) | Includes only the “securities” component of the “Other current financial assets” line item from Zegna’s consolidated statement of financial position. |
For additional details relating to Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) see “—Liquidity and Capital Resources—Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus)”.
Trade Working Capital
Trade Working Capital is defined as current assets less current liabilities adjusted for derivative assets and liabilities, tax assets and liabilities, cash and cash equivalents, assets and liabilities held for sale, borrowings, lease liabilities, and other assets and liabilities. Trade Working Capital is a non-IFRS measure.
Zegna’s management uses Trade Working Capital to analyze and evaluate Zegna’s liquidity generation/absorption. Zegna’s management believes this non-IFRS measure provides important supplemental information for management and investors when evaluating liquidity in that it provides insight into the availability of net current resources to fund Zegna’s ongoing operations. Additionally, Trade Working Capital is a measure used by management in internal evaluations of cash availability and operational performance.
The following table sets forth the calculation of Trade Working Capital at December 31, 2021 and 2020:
(Euro thousands) | At December 31, | |||||||
2021 | 2020 | |||||||
Current assets | 1,384,531 | 1,239,156 | ||||||
Current liabilities | (702,316 | ) | (535,454 | ) | ||||
|
|
|
| |||||
Working capital | 682,215 | 703,702 | ||||||
Less: | ||||||||
Derivative financial instruments | 1,786 | 11,848 | ||||||
Tax receivables | 14,966 | 15,611 | ||||||
Other current financial assets | 340,380 | 350,163 | ||||||
Other current assets | 68,773 | 66,718 | ||||||
Cash and cash equivalents | 459,791 | 317,291 | ||||||
Assets held for sale | — | 17,225 | ||||||
Current borrowings | (157,292 | ) | (106,029 | ) | ||||
Current lease liabilities | (106,643 | ) | (92,842 | ) | ||||
Derivative financial liabilities | (14,138 | ) | (13,192 | ) | ||||
Other current financial liabilities | (33,984 | ) | — |
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(Euro thousands) | At December 31, | |||||||
2021 | 2020 | |||||||
Current provisions for risks and charges | (14,093 | ) | (8,325 | ) | ||||
Tax liabilities | (28,773 | ) | (33,362 | ) | ||||
Other current liabilities | (124,356 | ) | (76,637 | ) | ||||
Liabilities held for sale | — | (16,725 | ) | |||||
|
|
|
| |||||
Trade Working Capital | 275,798 | 271,958 | ||||||
of which trade receivables | 160,360 | 138,829 | ||||||
of which inventories | 338,475 | 321,471 | ||||||
of which trade payables and customer advances | (223,037 | ) | (188,342 | ) |
Trade Working Capital increased by €3,840 thousand from €271,958 thousand at December 31, 2020 to €275,798 thousand at December 31, 2021, related to (i) higher trade receivables of €21,531 thousand and (ii) higher inventories of €17,004 thousand, partially offset by (iii) an increase in trade payables and customer advances of €34,695 thousand. All increases reflect a general recovery of activity levels in 2021 compared to 2020, which was adversely impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic.
Qualitative and Quantitative Information on Financial Risks
For a detailed description of Zegna’s financial risk factors and financial risk management, see Note 41 - Qualitative and quantitative information on financial risks to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
New Standards, Amendments and Interpretations under IFRS
For a description of certain recently adopted, issued or proposed accounting standards which may impact Zegna’s consolidated financial statements in future reporting periods, refer to the sections “New standards and amendments applicable from January 1, 2021” and “New standards, amendments and interpretations not yet effective” in Note 3 – Summary of significant accounting policies to the Consolidated Financial Statements included elsewhere in this prospectus.
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BOARD OF DIRECTORS AND SENIOR MANAGEMENT
The following information concerning the management of Zegna is based on the provisions of the Zegna Articles of Association. The Zegna Articles of Association may be amended in accordance with their terms. If the Zegna Articles of Association are amended, the below summary may cease to accurately reflect the Zegna Articles of Association as so amended.
Board of Directors
Pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, Zegna has a one-tier board consisting of one or more Zegna Executive Directors, having responsibility for the day-to-day management of Zegna and one or more Zegna Non-Executive Directors having oversight responsibilities but not responsibility to manage the day-to-day management. The Zegna Board determines the number of Zegna Executive Directors and Zegna Non-Executive Directors, provided that the majority of the Zegna Board consists of Zegna Non-Executive Directors. The Zegna Board as a whole is responsible for the strategy of Zegna. Zegna Directors are appointed by the Zegna General Meeting on a binding nomination by the Zegna Board, also taking into account the binding nomination rights set out in the Zegna Articles of Association and further described under “Description of Securities—Board of Directors—Nomination and Appointment.” The Zegna Board may allocate its duties and powers among the Zegna Directors and the committees of the Zegna Board in accordance with the Zegna Board Regulations or otherwise in writing.
Pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, the general authority to represent Zegna is vested in the Zegna Board and any Zegna Executive Director.
As of the date of this prospectus, the Zegna Board is composed of eleven members as set forth the in the following table. Unless otherwise indicated, the business address of each person listed below is c/o Ermenegildo Zegna N.V., Viale Roma 99/100, 13835 Valdilana loc. Trivero, Italy.
Name | Year of Birth | Position | ||||
Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello | 1955 | Chairperson, Chief Executive Officer and Executive Director | ||||
Andrea C. Bonomi | 1965 | Non-Executive Director | ||||
Angelica Cheung | 1966 | Non-Executive Director | ||||
Domenico De Sole | 1944 | Non-Executive Director | ||||
Sergio P. Ermotti | 1960 | Non-Executive Director | ||||
Ronald B. Johnson | 1958 | Non-Executive Director | ||||
Valerie A. Mars | 1959 | Non-Executive Director | ||||
Michele Norsa | 1948 | Non-Executive Director | ||||
Henry Peter | 1957 | Non-Executive Director | ||||
Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello | 1957 | Non-Executive Director | ||||
Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello | 1956 | Non-Executive Director |
Andrea C. Bonomi has been nominated as the Sponsor Nominee; the other Zegna Directors have been nominated by Monterubello and Ermenegildo Zegna.
The current members of the Zegna Board were appointed effective as of December 17, 2021 and their term of office will end at the close of the next annual Zegna General Meeting. Each Zegna Director may be reappointed.
For the current term of appointment, the Zegna Board designated Mr. Sergio Ermotti as Lead Non-Executive Director, being the chair (voorzitter) as referred to under Dutch law.
Summary biographies of the Zegna Directors are set out below.
Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello (Chairperson, Chief Executive Officer and Executive Director)
Mr. Zegna has been Chief Executive Officer of Zegna since 2006, having served on the Company’s board since 1989 and as Co-Chief Executive Officer from 1998 to 2006. Under his leadership, Zegna has pursued a strategy of vertical integration and has experienced its most extensive growth stage driven by continuous international expansion in countries within the Middle East, Australia, Brazil and Africa.
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Mr. Zegna joined the family business in 1982, managing distribution of Zegna products in the United States and Canada, as President of Ermenegildo Zegna Corporation. From 1986 to 1989, he served as the Chief Executive Officer of Italco SA, supervising distribution of Zegna products in Spain. Mr. Zegna was actively involved in Zegna’s expansion in America and Europe, and in 1991 he oversaw the opening of the brand’s first store in China.
Mr. Zegna is also Chairman of the board of directors of Monterubello and Thom Browne Inc. and a board member of Tom Ford International LLC. He also served as a member of the board of directors of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles N.V. from 2014 to 2021.
Since 2013, Mr. Zegna has been a member of the board of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion), a non-profit association committed to promoting the development of Italian fashion, and a member of the Council for the United States and Italy. In 2011, Mr. Zegna was nominated Cavaliere del Lavoro by the President of the Italian Republic, and received the Leonardo Prize from the President of the Italian Republic in 2016.
Born in Turin (Italy) in 1955, Mr. Zegna is a graduate in economics from the University of London.
Andrea C. Bonomi (Non-Executive Director)
Mr. Bonomi was appointed as a member of the board of directors of Zegna on December 17, 2021.
Mr. Bonomi established Investindustrial in 1990 and Invest for Children in 2000 and currently serves as Chairman of the Industrial Advisory Board.
Previously, he was responsible for the Saffa Group (a diversified industrial holding company) investments in Europe and the USA, which included acquisitions, divestments and fund raising. He has been chairman or director of a number of industrial and financial companies including Banca Popolare di Milano, RCS MediaGroup, Illycaffé S.p.A. and 21 Investimenti, 21 Centrale Partners and Inversiones Ibersuizas in the private equity industry. Prior to that, he was employed at Kleinwort Benson in London, and at Lazard Frères & Co. in New York. In both cases, he was assigned to their respective merger and acquisitions departments. He is a Trustee of New York University and a Private Equity Awards “Hall of Fame” (2018) inductee.
Born in New York City (USA) in 1965, Mr. Bonomi holds a B.Sc. in Business Administration from New York University.
Angelica Cheung (Non-Executive Director)
Ms. Cheung was appointed as a member of the board of directors of Zegna on December 17, 2021.
Ms. Cheung was the founding Editor-in-Chief of Vogue China and served as its Editor-in-Chief from 2005 to 2020. In February 2021, Ms. Cheung joined Sequoia Capital China as Venture Partner where she focuses on investments in the fashion/lifestyle/entertainment industry, especially the new generation of Chinese innovation and international brands seeking expansion in China. Since June 2021, Ms. Cheung has served on the board of directors of SSense, a Montreal-based fashion platform. She is Asia ambassador for the British Fashion Council, serves on the Advisory Board of Advance Global Alumni and is a strategic advisor to several international brands.
Born in Beijing (China) in 1966, Ms. Cheung holds degrees in law and literature from Beijing University as well as a M.B.A. from the University of South Australia.
Domenico De Sole (Non-Executive Director)
Mr. De Sole is currently a member of the board of directors of Zegna, a position he has held since 2005.
Mr. De Sole is the co-founder of luxury retailer Tom Ford International, LLC and has been the Chairman of its board of directors since its formation in 2005. During this time, Mr. De Sole also advised private equity firms in transactions in the field of fashion business.
From 1984 to 1994, Mr. De Sole served as President and Chief Executive Officer of Gucci America, and, from 1994 to 2004, he served as the President and Chief Executive Officer of Gucci Group, which during his tenure made significant acquisitions such as YSL, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga. Mr. De Sole has served on numerous public and private company boards of directors, including his current role as director of Pirelli & C. S.p.A. He formerly served as Chairman of Sotheby’s, and director of Bausch & Lomb Incorporated, Delta Airlines, Inc., Gap, Inc., Newell Brands Inc., Procter & Gamble and Telecom Italia S.p.A.
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Born in Rome (Italy) in 1944, Mr. De Sole graduated from the University of Rome with a law degree and received a L.L.M. from Harvard Law School where he also currently serves as a member of the Dean’s Advisory Board.
Sergio P. Ermotti (Non-Executive Director)
Sergio P. Ermotti was appointed as a member of the board of directors of Zegna on December 17, 2021, where he serves as Lead Non-Executive Director.
Mr. Ermotti was elected to the board of directors of Swiss Re Ltd. in April 2020 and has been Chairman of the board of directors since April 2021.
Mr. Ermotti was Group Chief Executive Officer of UBS Group from September 2011 to October 2020, having joined the Group Executive Board in April 2011. Before, he was at UniCredit Group, serving as Head of the Markets & Investment Banking Division as of December 2005, and from 2007 to 2010, as Group Deputy Chief Executive Officer responsible for Corporate and Investment Banking and Private Banking. Between 1987 and 2004, he held various positions at Merrill Lynch & Co in the areas of equity derivatives and capital markets. He became Co-Head of Global Equity Markets and a member of the Executive Management Committee for Global Markets & Investment Banking in 2001.
Born in Lugano (Switzerland) in 1960, Mr. Ermotti is a Swiss-certified banking expert and a graduate of the Advanced Management Program at Oxford University.
Ronald B. Johnson (Non-Executive Director)
Mr. Johnson is currently a member of the board of directors of Zegna, a position he has held since 2019.
Mr. Johnson is the founder of Enjoy Technology Inc., where he has served as Chief Executive Officer since 2014. He also serves as a member of the board of directors of Globality, Inc., Philz Coffee, Inc., Fish Six Restaurant Corp (d/b/a The Melt) and other private companies.
Previously, Mr. Johnson served as the Chief Executive Officer of JCPenney Company, Inc. from November 2011 to April 2013, Senior Vice President of Retail at Apple Inc. from January 2000 to October 2011, and Vice President of Merchandising at Target Corporation from September 1984 to December 1999.
Born in Minneapolis (USA) in 1958, Mr. Johnson holds a B.A. in Economics from Stanford University and a M.B.A. from Harvard Business School.
Valerie A. Mars (Non-Executive Director)
Ms. Mars was appointed as a member of the board of directors of Zegna on December 17, 2021, where she also serves as chairperson of the Audit Committee.
Ms. Mars currently serves as Senior Vice President & Head of Corporate Development for Mars, Incorporated, a diversified food business operating in over 120 countries, where she focuses on acquisitions, joint ventures and divestitures for the company.
Previously, Ms. Mars served as a member of the board of directors of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles N.V. from 2014 until its merger with Peugeot S.A. in 2021, Ahlstrom-Munksjo, a Finnish/Swedish listed specialty paper business, from 2018 until its delisting in 2021, and Celebrity Inc., a NASDAQ listed company, from 1994 to 2000.
Ms. Mars began her career with Manufacturers Hanover Trust Company as a training program participant and rose to Assistant Secretary. Prior to joining Mars, Incorporated, Ms. Mars was a controller with Whitman Heffernan Rhein, a boutique investment company. Ms. Mars is also involved in a number of community and educational organizations and currently serves on the Board of Conservation International, where she chairs the Audit Committee.
Born in New York City (USA) in 1959, Ms. Mars holds a Bachelor of Arts degree from Yale University and a M.B.A. from the Columbia Business School.
Michele Norsa (Non-Executive Director)
Mr. Norsa is currently a member of the board of directors of Zegna, a position he has held since 2017. He also serves as chairperson of the Governance and Sustainability Committee.
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Until December 31, 2021, Mr. Norsa was Executive Vice Chairman of Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A., where he previously served as Chief Executive Officer from 2006 to 2016. He is also a member of the International Advisory Board of the China Europe International Business School in Shanghai (CEIBS). Previously, Mr. Norsa served on the board of directors of Thom Browne Inc., Rocco Forte Hotels, Oettinger Davidoff Group and Hugo Boss and successfully led two IPOs in the luxury sector (Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A. in 2011 and Valentino Fashion Group S.p.A. in 2005). Mr. Norsa has extensive experience in the fashion, consumer goods and publishing sectors with Marzotto, Benetton, Sergio Tacchini, Rizzoli Editore and Mondadori Editore.
Born in Lecco (Italy) in 1948, Mr. Norsa graduated in Business and Economics from Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore in Milan.
Henry Peter (Non-Executive Director)
Mr. Peter is currently a member of the board of directors of Zegna, a position he has held since 2014. He also serves as chairperson of the Compensation Committee.
Mr. Peter serves on the board of directors of Swiss Life AG (Switzerland’s largest life insurance company) and Banque Lombard Odier & Cie SA, where he chairs the Audit Committee, and is Chairman of the board of directors of Sigurd Rück AG, a captive reinsurance company of the Italian Saipem SpA group. He was a member of the Swiss Takeover Board between 2004 and 2015 and has been a member of the Sanctions Commission of the SIX Swiss Exchange since 2007.
Born in Boston (USA) in 1957, Mr. Peter holds a Ph.D. in law from the University of Geneva. Since 1988, Mr. Peter has been a partner in a Lugano law firm, currently Kellerhals Carrard Lugano SA. He has also served since 1997 as professor of business law, and since 2017 as President of the Geneva Center for Philanthropy, at the University of Geneva.
Mr. Peter is Vice-Chairman of the disciplinary chamber of the Swiss Olympic Association in charge of doping cases, a position he has held since 2001. He is also Chairman of the board of the Foundation for the Lugano Faculties of the Swiss Italian University, member of the audit committee of the University of Geneva and a member of the board of the Foundation of the Swiss Italian Art Museum (MASI).
Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello (Non-Executive Director)
Ms. Zegna is currently a member of the board of directors of Zegna, a position she has held since 2018.
Ms. Zegna has served as head of Oasi Zegna since 2014 and has directed the Store Planning at Zegna from 1995 to 1998 and the Group Image until 2017. Ms. Zegna is still involved in the Store Planning of Zegna as a special advisor. She is also a member of the board of directors of Monterubello and of the non-profit foundation Fondo Ambiante Italiano (FAI).
Previously, Ms. Zegna headed the public relations department of Gianni Versace from 1982 to 1984 before joining Zegna in 1984 as Head of Corporate Advertising and External Relations Manager. In 1993, along with Laura Zegna, Ms. Zegna developed the Oasi Zegna project, which has over the years become a model of environmental sustainability. In 1998, she won a Green Globe Award for her work at Zegna in support of environmental issues, and was appointed to the management committee of Touring Club Italiano in 2002. In 2007, in recognition of her social commitment, she received a MarcoPolo Award from the prestigious Babson College in Boston. Ms. Zegna is also the President of Fondazione Zegna, where she oversees the planning and coordination of international humanitarian initiatives related to conservation, sustainable development and education.
Born in Turin (Italy) in 1957, Ms. Zegna holds a degree in Political Sciences from the University of Lausanne and did her post-graduate studies in advertising and marketing at Watford College.
Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello (Non-Executive Director)
Mr. Zegna has served as Chairman of the board of directors of Zegna from 2006 until December 2021. Previously, he served as a member of the board of directors of Zegna from 1989 to 1998 and was Co-Chief Executive Officer from 1998 to 2006.
Mr. Zegna is also Vice-Chairman of the board of directors of Monterubello and Chairman of the board of directors of Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna e Figli S.p.A. and Achill Station Pty Ltd., and a member of the board of directors of Bonotto S.p.A., Gruppo Dondi S.p.A. and Elah Dufour S.p.A.
Mr. Zegna has been a member of the board of Sistema Moda Italia since 2005, which represents companies of the entire supply chain and is the official interlocutor in relations with Italian and international institutions and organizations. He also served as Vice President of the Altagamma Foundation, which is committed to gathering high-end cultural and creative companies and increasing the competitiveness of the high-end industry.
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Born in Turin (Italy) in 1956, Mr. Zegna holds a degree in Economics from the University of Geneva.
Mr. Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello and Ms. Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello are siblings. Mr. Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello is a cousin to Mr. Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello and Ms. Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello.
Senior Management
The senior management of Zegna comprises the following individuals:
• | Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello as Chief Executive Officer; |
• | Gianluca Ambrogio Tagliabue as Chief Operating Officer and Chief Financial Officer; |
• | Alessandro Sartori as Zegna Artistic Director; |
• | Franco Ferraris as Head of Textiles; |
• | Rodrigo Bazan as Chief Executive Officer of Thom Browne; and |
• | Thom Browne as Founder and Chief Creative Officer of Thom Browne. |
Summary biographies of members of the senior management are set out below.
Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello
For the biography of Mr. Zegna, please see “—Board of Directors.”
Gianluca A. Tagliabue
Mr. Tagliabue currently serves as the Chief Operating Officer and Chief Financial Officer of Zegna, positions he has held since January 2020.
Mr. Tagliabue joined Zegna in January 2016 as Chief Financial Officer and Head of Business Development. Before joining Zegna, Mr. Tagliabue was the Chief Financial Officer and Senior Vice President, Strategy and Shared Services of Oakley Group from 2012 to 2015, based in California, USA. Previously, he served as Group Business Development Director and International Business Development Director (Retail, Sun & Luxury) of the Luxottica Group from January 2011 to June 2012 and June 2010 to December 2010, respectively. Mr. Tagliabue has over 10 years of experience in strategic consulting, having worked at Value Partners, in Italy and Brazil, as Partner from 2005 to 2010 and as Senior Manager from 2001 to 2005, and earlier at Gemini Consulting.
Born in Milan (Italy) in 1968, Mr. Tagliabue holds a degree in Business Administration from the Bocconi University in Milan.
Alessandro Sartori
Mr. Sartori is currently the Artistic Director of Zegna, a position he has held since 2016, and oversees all the brands and creative functions in the Zegna Branded Products product line. He started his professional career at Zegna in 1989, and worked as a men’s wear designer for over 10 years. In 2003, Mr. Sartori was appointed Creative Director of Z Zegna. During his eight-year tenure as Creative Director, he oversaw the launch of the brand, including its first runway show in New York City in 2007.
In 2011, Mr. Sartori joined Berluti, a Paris-based menswear brand which became part of the LVMH group in 2003, as Artistic Director where he was responsible for developing the brand. Born in Trivero (Italy) in 1966, Mr. Sartori studied fashion design at Istituto Marangoni Milano.
Franco Ferraris
Mr. Ferraris is currently the Head of Textiles at Zegna, a position he has held since 1992.
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Mr. Ferraris has served as the Chief Executive Officer and General Manager of Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna e Figli S.p.A. since 1992. He is also the Chairman of the board of directors of Bonotto S.p.A., Gruppo Dondi S.p.A. and Tessitura Ubertino S.r.l. Mr. Ferraris also serves on the board of directors of a number of private companies in the industrial services and real estate sector, including Finissaggio e Tintoria Ferraris S.p.A., Pettinatura di Verrone S.r.l., F2 S.r.l., Immobiliare Giulia s.s. and Immobiliare Magda s.s. Since 2015, he has served as the Chairman of Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Biella, which plays an active role in supporting initiatives aimed at promoting the cultural, economic and social growth of the Province of Biella.
Born in Turin (Italy) in 1956, Mr. Ferraris holds a degree in Business and Economics from the University of Ancona.
Mr. Franco Ferraris is the spouse of Ms. Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello.
Rodrigo Bazan
Mr. Bazan is currently the Chief Executive Officer of Thom Browne, a position he has held since 2016. Under his leadership, Thom Browne has expanded in the DTC channel, opening directly-operated stores in North America, Europe, UK, Japan and Greater China Region, Middle East and with partners in Korea, Hong-Kong SAR and South East Asia. He has led the digital retail footprint for e-business, including partnering with platforms like Farfetch and TMall.
Before joining Thom Browne, Mr. Bazan served as President at Alexander Wang from 2010 to 2016 where he oversaw merchandising, marketing and sales, finance/operations, digital, as well as the company’s retail expansion. Prior to his appointment at Alexander Wang, Mr. Bazan served as Vice President and General Manager of Marc Jacobs International for Europe, the Middle East and India from 2007 to 2010. Previously, he served as the General Manager and Chief Financial Officer of Alexander McQueen from 2003 to 2007, where he oversaw both the wholesale ready-to-wear and accessories team and the retail network of flagship stores.
Since 2012, Mr. Bazan has served as a member of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund business advisory committee and has been actively involved in the Fund’s mentorship program. Since 2015, Mr. Bazan has been recognized by The Business of Fashion in the “BoF 500,” an annual list of the most influential people who are shaping the global fashion industry.
Born in Mar del Plata (Argentina) in 1975, Mr. Bazan graduated from the Universidad Argentina de la Empresa in Buenos Aires.
Thom Browne
Mr. Browne is the Founder and Chief Creative Officer of Thom Browne, a position he has held since 2002 before the acquisition of Thom Browne by Zegna in November 2018.
Mr. Browne is widely recognized for challenging and modernizing today’s uniform, the suit. Mr. Browne began his eponymous business in the early 2000s with five suits in a small “by appointment” shop in New York City’s West Village and, in the following years, expanded it to include complete ready-to-wear and accessories collections for both men and women. Mr. Browne has also become known for his highly conceptual runway presentations, which have gained global attention for their thought provoking and dramatic themes and settings.
Born in Allentown, Pennsylvania, in 1965, Mr. Browne holds a Bachelor of Science from the University of Notre Dame.
Committees of the Zegna Board
Pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, the Zegna Board has power to establish any committees and and may allocate specific duties, tasks and procedures to any such committees.
On December 17, 2021, the Zegna Board established three standing committees: (i) the Audit Committee, (ii) the Compensation Committee and (iii) the Governance and Sustainability Committee.
Each standing committee is comprised of at least three Zegna Directors, a majority of whom is independent.
The Audit Committee
The Audit Committee is responsible for assisting and advising the Zegna Board in the oversight of, among others: (i) the integrity of Zegna’s financial statements, including any published interim reports; (ii) the adequacy and effectiveness of Zegna’s internal control over financial reporting, financial reporting procedures and disclosure controls and procedures; (iii) Zegna’s policy on
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tax planning; (iv) Zegna’s policy on reservations and dividends; (v) Zegna’s financing; (vi) Zegna’s application of information and communication technology; (vii) the systems of internal controls that management and/or the Zegna Board have established; (viii) Zegna’s compliance with legal and regulatory requirements; (ix) Zegna’s compliance with recommendations and observations of internal and independent auditors; (x) the open and ongoing communications regarding Zegna’s financial position and results of operations between the Zegna Board, the independent auditors, Zegna’s management and internal audit department; (xi) Zegna’s policies and procedures for addressing certain actual or perceived conflicts of interest; (xii) the qualifications, independence, oversight and remuneration of the independent auditors and any non-audit services provided to Zegna by the independent auditors; (xiii) determining the process for selecting the external auditor or the audit firm (and/or the independent registered public accounting firm), if applicable, and the nomination to extend the assignment to carry out the statutory audit; (xiv) the performance of Zegna’s internal auditors and of the independent auditors; (xv) risk management guidelines and policies; and (xvi) the implementation and effectiveness of Zegna’s ethics and compliance program.
The Audit Committee is comprised of at least three Zegna Non-Executive Directors. Each member of the Audit Committee is required (i) not to have any material relationship with Zegna or to serve as auditors or accountants for Zegna; (ii) to be “independent,” for purposes of the NYSE rules, Rule 10A-3 of the Exchange Act and the DCGC; and (iii) to be “financially literate” and have “accounting or selected financial management expertise” (as determined by the Zegna Board). At least one member of the Audit Committee will be a “financial expert” as defined by the Sarbanes-Oxley Act and the rules of the SEC. No Audit Committee member may serve on more than four audit committees for other public companies, absent a waiver from the Zegna Board which must be disclosed in Zegna’s annual report. Unless decided otherwise by the Audit Committee, the independent auditors of the company, the Chief Financial Officer and the head of internal audit will attend its meetings. The Chief Executive Officer will be entitled to attend meetings of the Audit Committee unless the Audit Committee determines otherwise and should attend the meetings of the Audit Committee if the Audit Committee so requires. The Audit Committee will meet with the independent auditors at least once per year outside the presence of the Zegna Executive Directors and management.
The Audit Committee comprises Valerie A. Mars (as chairperson), Sergio P. Ermotti and Ronald B. Johnson, each of whom is independent for purposes of the NYSE rules, Rule 10A-3 of the Exchange Act and the DCGC.
The Compensation Committee
The Compensation Committee is responsible for, among others, assisting and advising the Zegna Board in: (i) determining executive compensation consistent with Zegna’s remuneration policy; (ii) reviewing and approving the remuneration structure for the Zegna Non-Executive Directors; (iii) administering equity incentive plans and deferred compensation benefit plans; (iv) discussing with management Zegna’s policies and practices related to compensation and issuing recommendations with respect to such compensation; and (v) to prepare the remuneration report in accordance with the DCGC.
The Compensation Committee is comprised of at least three Zegna Non-Executive Directors. More than half of its members (including the chairperson) are independent under the DCGC. Unless decided otherwise by the Compensation Committee, the head of human resources of Zegna or its relevant subsidiaries may be invited to attend the discussions of the Compensation Committee other than discussions relating to the compensation of Zegna Non-Executive Directors.
The Compensation Committee comprises Henry Peter (as chairperson), Domenico De Sole and Valerie A. Mars. Each of Henry Peter and Valerie A. Mars is independent for purposes of the NYSE rules and the DCGC. Domenico De Sole is independent for purposes of the DCGC.
The Governance and Sustainability Committee
The Governance and Sustainability Committee is responsible for, among others, assisting and advising the Zegna Board with: (i) the recommendation of the criteria, professional and personal qualifications for candidates to serve as Zegna Directors; (ii) periodic assessment of the size and composition of the Zegna Board; (iii) periodic assessment of the performance of individual Zegna Directors and reporting on this to the Zegna Board; (iv) proposals to the Zegna Non-Executive Directors for the nomination and re-nomination of Zegna Directors to be appointed by the Zegna General Meeting; (v) supervision of the policy on the selection and appointment criteria for senior management and on succession planning; (vi) monitoring, evaluating and reporting on the group’s sustainable development policies and practices, management standards, strategy, performance and governance globally; and (vii) reviewing, assessing and making recommendations as to strategic guidelines for sustainability-related issues, and reviewing the annual sustainability report.
The Governance and Sustainability Committee is comprised of at least three Zegna Non-Executive Directors. More than half of its members are independent under the DCGC.
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The Governance and Sustainability Committee comprises Michele Norsa (as chairperson), Ronald B. Johnson and Angelica Cheung. Each of Ronald B. Johnson and Angelica Cheung is independent for purposes of the NYSE rules and the DCGC. Michele Norsa is independent for purposes of the DCGC.
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Introduction
The description below provides information relating to the remuneration that was earned by the Zegna Board and senior management team for the year ended December 31, 2021. The form and amount of remuneration received by the directors and the senior management team of Zegna generally was determined in accordance with the decisions made by Zegna prior to the completion of the Business Combination. On December 17, 2021, the Zegna General Meeting adopted a remuneration policy. The non-executive directors of the Zegna Board oversee the remuneration policy, remuneration plans and practices of Zegna and intend to recommend changes when appropriate. More than half of the members of the Compensation Committee (including the chairperson) are independent pursuant to the DCGC. The Company may from time to time amend the remuneration policy, subject to the Zegna General Meeting’s approval when necessary.
This compensation report consists of two sections:
• | Historical Compensation for the 2021 Financial Year: details the remuneration features during the 2021 financial year and actual remuneration received by or awarded to each executive and non-executive director and the senior management team. |
• | Remuneration Policy: details our current remuneration policy (which is available on our corporate website), as adopted by the Zegna General Meeting on December 17, 2021. Our remuneration policy, which governs compensation for both executive and non-executive directors (with regard to the latter as of January 1, 2022), provides a structure that aligns remuneration of the Zegna Board with successful delivery of Zegna’s long-term strategy and long-term value creation with the goal of ensuring that the directors’ interests are closely aligned to those of Zegna’s stakeholders, including its shareholders. |
Historical Compensation for the 2021 Financial Year
Board of Directors
Short Term Incentive Plan
In 2021, Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello, Zegna Director and Chief Executive Officer of Zegna, Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello, the former chairman and current Zegna Director, and Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello, Zegna Director, were eligible to earn short term variable cash compensation for 2021. For Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello, the short term variable compensation was based on Zegna’s profitability. For Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello and Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello, the short term variable compensation was based on certain Zegna profitability metrics. The amount of short term variable compensation earned by Messrs. Zegna and Zegna and Ms. Zegna for the year ended December 31, 2021 was €2,695,000, €600,000 and €480,000, respectively.
Long Term Incentive Plan
The Chief Executive Officer’s executive agreement (which was last amended and restated on July 15, 2021, as approved by the Zegna Board) includes a Long Term Incentive Plan (the “LTIP”).
Under the LTIP, Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello is eligible to earn shares of Zegna subject to continued service and performance-based conditions for each of 2022 through 2024. Awards will generally lapse in the event of termination of employment prior to the applicable vesting date or if Mr. Zegna has given notice to terminate his employment prior to the applicable vesting date. In the event of a termination of employment classified as “good leaver,” grants will vest pro-rata from the date of grant to the date of termination of employment. “Good leaver” is defined as (a) death, (b) incapacity or illness, (c) redundancy, (d) any other reason that the Zegna Board may determine and (e) if Mr. Zegna leaves his position as Chief Executive Officer of Zegna after December 31, 2023. The amount of long term variable compensation awarded to Mr. Zegna for the year ended December 31, 2021 was €6,138,000. No share has vested yet and this amount represents exclusively the accrual for 2021 of the LTIP.
On December 17, 2021, in connection with the completion of the Merger, the Zegna Board approved an equity incentive plan (“EIP”), which was approved by the Zegna General Meeting on December 17, 2021. In addition, the Zegna Board adopted the CEO Long Term Incentive Plan 2022-2024, a sub-plan of the EIP, which set out the modalities of the arrangements agreed upon pursuant to Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello’s executive agreement, as discussed above.
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IPO Performance Bonus
Pursuant to the Chief Executive Officer’s executive agreement, as amended and restated on July 15, 2021, as a result of the Company becoming listed on a public stock exchange, Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello is entitled to receive, at no cost to him, performance-based share awards giving right to receive 600,000 Ordinary Shares upon the satisfaction of certain vesting conditions (the “IPO Performance Bonus”). Subsequently, on December 17, 2021, the Zegna Board adopted the IPO Bonus Plan, a sub-plan of the EIP, which sets out the terms and conditions governing the IPO Performance Bonus, subject to Zegna filing a registration statement registering the Ordinary Shares subject to the IPO Performance Bonus. The IPO Performance Bonus will vest and become transferrable in two tranches upon the per share price of the Ordinary Shares of the Company reaching certain pre-determined levels and, with respect to the second tranche (representing 360,000 shares), also subject to his continued service as Zegna’s Chief Executive Officer as of December 31, 2023, unless otherwise resolved by the Zegna Non-Executive Directors. Zegna recorded an expense of €2,047,000 for 2021 in respect of the IPO Performance Bonus awarded to Mr. Zegna.
In addition and subject to the adoption of the necessary corporate approvals under Dutch law, the Zegna Board resolved to grant to Henry Peter, subject to certain corporate approvals, an IPO Performance Bonus representing the right to receive 50,000 Ordinary Shares pursuant to the IPO Bonus Plan. Mr. Peter’s IPO Bonus would vest and become transferrable in two tranches upon the per share price of the Ordinary Shares of the Company reaching certain pre-determined levels and, with respect to the second tranche (representing 25,000 shares), also subject to continued service as of December 31, 2023, unless otherwise resolved by the Zegna Board.
Share Purchases
Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello’s executive agreement, prior to its restatement on July 15, 2021, provided that each year he was entitled to buy from Zegna shares valued at the greater of (a) contractually defined EBITDA multiplied by 8 divided by the number of shares issued as of December 31, 2020 and (b) €186 per share, the accounting value of Zegna’s treasury shares prior to the Conversion. On February 4, 2021, Zegna granted Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello the right to buy a maximum number of 15,832 Zegna shares for a purchase price of €186 per share, the accounting value of Zegna’s treasury shares prior to the Conversion. In May 2021, Mr. Zegna exercised such right and purchased 15,832 Zegna shares for a total consideration of €2,946,000. In July 2021, Mr. Zegna exercised his right to purchase 6,352 Zegna shares for a total consideration of €1,185,000.
In compliance with the remuneration policy, Mr. Zegna’s executive agreement, amended and restated as of July 15, 2021, provides that each year he is entitled to buy from Zegna shares valued at 12 times the previous year’s EBIT (calculated in accordance with the recognition and measurement principles of IFRS), for a maximum amount corresponding to his base salary plus short term incentive compensation for the previous year. Zegna recorded an expense of €234,000 for 2021 in connection with Mr. Zegna’s right to purchase shares, pursuant to the executive agreement, amended and restated as of July 15, 2021, and the remuneration policy.
On October 12, 2021, Zegna entered into an amendment of the agreement with DDS and Associates LLC (an entity beneficially owned by members of Mr. De Sole’s family which provides certain consultancy services to Zegna), entered into in 2004 and subsequently amended in 2021, in order for Mr. Domenico De Sole to provide consultancy services to Zegna on a worldwide basis. As part of the arrangement, DDS and Associates LLC was granted a “virtual options” incentive program tied to the EBITDA improvement of Zegna under which Zegna would pay, upon exercise, an amount corresponding to 0.4% of the difference between the initial (2004) reference EBITDA multiplied by 8.5 and the amount obtained by applying the same formula to the Zegna EBITDA of the fiscal year ended prior to the exercise of the virtual options. Whole or part of the “virtual options” could be exercised. Pursuant to the above mentioned amendment, prior to the Closing of the Business Combination DDS and Associates purchased 16,237 treasury shares from Zegna representing approximately 0.4% of Zegna’s issued and outstanding share capital prior to the Conversion for a purchase price of approximately €2.2 million.
Warrants
In connection with the completion of the Business Combination, Zegna granted an aggregate number of 800,000 Private Placement Warrants to certain Zegna Non-Executive Directors, namely the directors who were members of the Zegna Board prior to the Conversion, the Lead Non-Executive Director and the chairperson of the Audit Committee, in accordance with the terms and conditions set forth in the New Warrant Agreement. The Warrants are subject to a lock-up period of 12 months from the Closing Date (the “Lock-Up Period”). During the Lock-Up Period, the eligible Zegna Non-Executive Director will not (i) exercise the Warrants or (ii) transfer, sell or otherwise dispose of any Warrants beneficially owned or owned by record by the eligible Zegna Non-Executive Director or any economic entitlement therein, except in specific cases or with prior approval of the Zegna Board.
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Remuneration in the Event of Termination
Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello’s executive agreement provides that in the event that, for any reason, Mr. Zegna leaves his position as Chief Executive Officer of Zegna, regardless of whether he maintains his position as Chairperson of the Zegna Board, he will be entitled to a severance payment of an amount equal to two years of his fixed annual fee, net of income taxes, provided that the reduction of his fixed annual fee which he accepted with respect to 2020 in light of the COVID-19 pandemic will not be considered in such calculation.
Historical Compensation
The following table summarizes the compensation from Zegna received by the members of the Zegna Board for the year ended December 31, 2021.
Of the compensation reported for Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello, a significant portion, €11,661,000, represents non-realized remuneration that was accrued in 2021 in respect of the equity awards subject to satisfaction of performance and presence conditions and of Mr. Zegna’s right to purchase shares, and his termination indemnity.
Name | Office Held | Fixed Compensation | Variable Compensation (€) | Stock Awards (€) | Option Awards (€) | Other Compensation (€) | Total (€) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
Annual Fee (€) | Fringe Benefits (€) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello | | Chairperson, Chief Executive Officer and Executive Director | | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Realized | 1,863,000 | (1) | 85,000 | (2) | 2,695,000 | (4) | — | 4,114,000 | (7) | — | 8,757,000 | |||||||||||||||||||||
Non-Realized | — | 3,242,000 | (3) | 6,138,000 | (5) | 2,047,000 | (6) | 234,000 | (8) | — | 11,661,000 | |||||||||||||||||||||
Total – Sole Executive Director | 1,863,000 | 3,327,000 | 8,833,000 | 2,047,000 | 4,348,000 | — | 20,418,000 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
Andrea C. Bonomi (9) | | Non-Executive Director | | — | — | — | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Angelica Cheung (10) | | Senior Non-Executive Director | | — | — | — | — | — | 98,000 | (11) | 98,000 | |||||||||||||||||||||
Domenico De Sole | | Non-Executive Director | | 40,000 | — | — | (812,000 | )(12) | 155,000 | (13) | 190,000 | (14) | (427,000 | ) | ||||||||||||||||||
Sergio P. Ermotti (15) | | Non-Executive Director | | — | — | — | — | 155,000 | (13) | — | 155,000 | |||||||||||||||||||||
Ronald B. Johnson | | Non-Executive Director | | 80,000 | — | — | — | 155,000 | (13) | — | 235,000 | |||||||||||||||||||||
Valerie A. Mars | | Non-Executive Director | | — | — | — | — | 155,000 | (13) | — | 155,000 | |||||||||||||||||||||
Michele Norsa | | Non-Executive Director | | 80,000 | — | — | — | 155,000 | (13) | — | 235,000 | |||||||||||||||||||||
Henry Peter | | Non-Executive Director | | 199,000 | (16) | 9,000 | (17) | — | 186,000 | (18) | 155,000 | (13) | 100,000 | (19) | 649,000 | |||||||||||||||||
Angelo Zegna di Monte Rubello(20) | | Non-Executive Director | | 6,000 | — | — | — | — | — | 6,000 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello | | Non-Executive Director | | 189,000 | 43,000 | (17) | 480,000 | — | 155,000 | (13) | — | 867,000 | ||||||||||||||||||||
Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello(21) | | Non-Executive Director | | 523,000 | (22) | 27,000 | (17) | 600,000 | — | 155,000 | (13) | — | 1,305,000 | |||||||||||||||||||
Renata Zegna di Monte Rubello | | Non-Executive Director | | 20,000 | 5,000 | (17) | — | — | — | — | 25,000 | |||||||||||||||||||||
Total – Non-Executive Directors | 1,137,000 | 84,000 | 1,080,000 | (626,000 | ) | 1,240,000 | 388,000 | 3,303,000 |
(1) | The amount reported is comprised of (i) the base salary earned by Mr. Zegna as Chief Executive Officer of Zegna (€880,000) and (ii) €983,000 for his services as a director of Zegna Group companies. |
(2) | The amount reported represents post-employment benefits in the form of mandatory social contributions for Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello. |
(3) | The amount reported represents the accrued value of the indemnity payable to Mr. Zegna on termination of his employment. |
(4) | The amount reported represents short term variable compensation, determined as described above. |
(5) | The amount reported represents the long term variable compensation, calculated as described above. |
(6) | The amount reported represents the IPO Performance Bonus share awards to which Mr. Zegna is entitled, subject to the satisfaction of certain conditions described above. |
(7) | The amount reported is comprised of (i) the gain incurred by Mr. Zegna from the exercise of his right to purchase 15,832 shares of Zegna, as discussed above and (ii) the gain incurred by Mr. Zegna from the exercise of his right to purchase 6,352 shares of Zegna, as discussed above. |
(8) | The amount reported represents the expense that was recorded by Zegna for 2021 in connection with Mr. Zegna’s right to purchase shares, pursuant to the executive agreement restated as of July 15, 2021 and the remuneration policy, as discussed above. |
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(9) | Andrea C. Bonomi was nominated to the Zegna Board by the IIAC Sponsor effective as of, and has been a Zegna Director since, December 17, 2021. |
(10) | Angelica Cheung has been a Zegna Director since December 17, 2021. |
(11) | Ms. Cheung received €98,000 for consulting services provided to Zegna. |
(12) | The amount reported represents 16,237 Zegna treasury shares assigned to Domenico De Sole on July 4, 2021 with a fair market value of €6,051,530 for a purchase price of €2,216,351. Such Ordinary Shares were purchased pursuant to the right under the agreement between Zegna and DDS and Associates LLC, as discussed above under “—Share Purchases”), net of the expense that was recorded by Zegna in previous periods (€4,647,000). |
(13) | Represents the Zegna Warrants granted to certain Zegna Directors, as discussed above. |
(14) | DDS and Associates LLC (an entity beneficially owned by members of Mr. De Sole’s family), received €190,000 for consulting services provided to Zegna. Mr. De Sole has disclaimed any pecuniary interest in DDS and Associates LLC. |
(15) | The table does not include any remuneration received by Sergio P. Ermotti for his service to IIAC. Mr. Ermotti was the chairman of the board of directors of IIAC until December 17, 2021. |
(16) | The amount reported includes €99,000 earned by Henry Peter for services as a director of a Zegna subsidiary. |
(17) | Includes post-employment benefits in the form of mandatory social contributions earned for services as a director of Zegna. |
(18) | The amount reported, which is non-realized compensation for 2021, represents the accrual for 2021 of the IPO Performance Bonus to which the Zegna Director shall be entitled, subject to the conditions described above. |
(19) | Mr. Peter received €100,000 for services provided to Zegna in connection with the Business Combination. |
(20) | The amount reported for Angelo Zegna di Monte Rubello was received in connection with his service to Zegna prior to his death in August 2021. |
(21) | Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello was the chairman of the Zegna Board until December 17, 2021. |
(22) | The amount reported includes €30,000 earned by Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello for services as a director of a Zegna subsidiary. |
Board of Statutory Auditors
In 2021, the members of Zegna’s board of statutory auditors received an annual cash fee as well as reimbursement for all reasonable and properly documented expenses. The aggregate amount of compensation earned by the members of Zegna’s board of statutory auditors in 2021 was €165,880.
Zegna’s board of statutory auditors ceased to exist upon the effectiveness of the Conversion.
Senior Management
For 2021, Zegna’s senior management team consisted of:
• | Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello as Chief Executive Officer; |
• | Gianluca Ambrogio Tagliabue as Chief Operating Officer and Chief Financial Officer; |
• | Alessandro Sartori as Zegna Artistic Director; |
• | Franco Ferraris as Head of Textiles; |
• | Rodrigo Bazan as Chief Executive Officer of Thom Browne; and |
• | Thom Browne as Founder & Chief Creative Officer of Thom Browne. |
The aggregate amount of fixed compensation earned by Zegna’s senior management team (excluding the CEO, whose compensation is included in the discussion of the compensation earned by the Zegna Board above) for the year ended December 31, 2021 was €5,309,000, including (a) €4,289,000 earned by Zegna’s senior management team (excluding the CEO) as base salary, (b) €407,000 earned by Zegna’s senior management team (excluding the CEO) for service as a director of a Zegna subsidiary, (c) €601,000 accrued by Zegna for post-employment benefits and (d) €12,000 accrued by Zegna for fringe benefits to its senior management team (excluding the CEO). Additionally, Zegna accrued other compensation for €8,702,000 for one-time fixed extraordinary bonuses earned by certain of Zegna’s senior management team (excluding the CEO) which will be paid in 2024. Zegna’s senior management team (excluding the CEO) earned €1,015,000 for consulting services provided to Zegna. The aggregate amounts of short term variable compensation under Zegna’s Perfomance Management Program ( the “PMP”) and long term variable compensation earned by Zegna’s senior management team (excluding the CEO) for the year ended December 31, 2021 were €3,968,000 and €32,000, respectively.
Cash compensation for Zegna’s senior management team in 2021 consisted of base salary, consulting fees and a short term variable cash compensation under the PMP. The PMP provides eligible employees, including the senior management team, with an opportunity to earn a cash incentive payment to the extent that pre-established business and individual performance goals are achieved. Additionally, certain members of Zegna’s senior management team are entitled to awards under the IPO Bonus Plan representing the right to receive an aggregate of 225,000 Ordinary Shares, as communicated to the applicable recipients in December 2021, resulting in an expense to Zegna of €837,000 for the year ended December 31,2021.
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Remuneration Policy
Zegna’s remuneration policy provides a framework for the Zegna Non-Executive Directors to determine the remuneration of the Zegna Executive Directors and the Zegna Non-Executive Directors. The remuneration policy provides a structure that aligns remuneration of the Zegna Board with successful delivery of Zegna’s long-term strategy and long-term value creation, and therefore aims to ensure that the Zegna Directors’ interests are closely aligned to those of Zegna’s stakeholders, including its shareholders. The purposes of the remuneration policy is to define a competitive remuneration package, designed to attract, retain and motivate Zegna Directors who possess the necessary leadership qualities and requisite skills and experience in the various aspects of Zegna’s business, while also providing enough flexibility to tailor remuneration practices to a specific situation.
While formulating the remuneration policy, the Zegna Non-Executive Directors have taken into consideration Zegna’s strategy and core values, which are focused on long-term value creation and sustainable development of Zegna. Pay ratios within Zegna and scenario analyses have also been considered. The remuneration policy is based upon the following principles:
General
1. | The remuneration of the board follows the pay-for-performance principle and incentivizes Zegna Directors to create long-term value for shareholders and other stakeholders through achievement of strategic objectives; |
2. | The remuneration is appropriately balanced between fixed and variable remuneration components, aiming to ensure long-term value creation and alignment of Zegna Directors’ interests with Zegna’s strategic objectives; |
3. | The remuneration of the board is competitive in relation to the market in which Zegna operates, the relative size of the business, the specificity of Zegna’s governance structure and the duties and responsibilities of the board resulting therefrom; |
With Respect to Zegna Executive Director(s)
4. | The remuneration is predominantly long-term in character, with long-term equity incentives linked to the delivery of Zegna’s strategic objectives in the highly competitive industry Zegna operates in; |
With Respect to Zegna Non-Executive Directors
5. | The remuneration of the Zegna Non-Executive Directors is designed to attract and retain non-executive directors who have the talent and skills to foster the long-term value creation of Zegna while respecting its core values; |
6. | The remuneration of the Zegna Non-Executive Directors consists of cash payments and equity awards in order to enable Zegna to limit the cash component of the non-executive director remuneration and to ensure structural alignment of the Zegna Non-Executive Directors’ interests with the interests of Zegna’s stakeholders, including its shareholders; and |
Evaluation
7. | The Zegna Non-Executive Directors will evaluate the objectives and structures of the remuneration policy at regular intervals, to ensure it is fit for its intended purpose. The Zegna Non-Executive Directors will be assisted by Zegna’s Compensation Committee. |
Zegna Executive Director(s)
On the basis of the remuneration policy objectives, the compensation of Zegna Executive Director(s) consists of the elements discussed below.
Base Salary
The base salary is set at a level to attract, motivate and retain executive director(s).
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Reimbursement of Expenses
Zegna will reimburse the expenses and costs reasonably incurred in relation to the performance of the Zegna Executive Director’s duties.
Short-Term Incentives
The objective of any short-term variable compensation is to incentivize the Zegna Executive Director to achieve annual targets and objectives that are related to the short-term focus of Zegna. The annual short-term incentive payment to be granted to an individual executive director will not exceed 200% of that individual Zegna Executive Director’s base salary. Notwithstanding the foregoing, the Zegna Non-Executive Directors may decide, based on a proposal of the Compensation Committee, to increase the short-term incentive payable to an individual Zegna Executive Director for any given year in case of exceptional achievements of such Zegna Executive Director.
Long-Term Incentives
The objective of any long-term equity incentive is to provide a retention tool for the Zegna Executive Director and to align the long-term interests of the Zegna Executive Director with those of Zegna and its stakeholders. Furthermore, by granting a long-term incentive in the form of equity, the Zegna Executive Director participate directly in the growth of the value of Zegna to which he or she contributes. The amount of equity awarded to the Zegna Executive Director will be determined by the Zegna Non-Executive Directors, taking into account the applicable performance conditions and continuous service requirements with the intent of creating long-term shareholder value. The Zegna Non-Executive Directors may resolve, upon recommendation of the Compensation Committee, to grant equity awards in accordance with any equity incentive plan approved by the Zegna General Meeting and to be further implemented by the Zegna Board.
The Zegna Executive Director may be entitled to annually acquire such number of Zegna’s Ordinary Shares up to a maximum value of his or her base salary and annual variable cash compensation awarded for the previous year, at a value per share based on an enterprise value corresponding to 12 times the Group’s EBIT of the year preceding the year in which the Zegna Executive Director wishes to acquire the Ordinary Shares.
Recoupment of Incentive Compensation (Adjustment and Claw-Back)
Any grant, award or actual payment in relation to the short-term and long-term incentives may during any relevant performance and/or vesting period and during a period of three years following the actual award, in the sole discretion of the Zegna Non-Executive Directors and whether or not at the instigation of the Compensation Committee:
1. | Be decreased or eliminated if such grant, award or actual payment were to be unacceptable according to principles of reasonableness and fairness; and |
2. | Clawed back if such grant, award or actual payment took place on the basis of incorrect data (including data that has been maliciously altered and therefore, is incorrect). |
Remuneration in the Event of Termination
Zegna may pay severance compensation in accordance with the terms and conditions of the applicable services agreement of an individual Zegna Executive Director. Such severance compensation will not exceed 200% of the Zegna Executive Director’s annual base salary. Severance benefits may also include outplacement services and continuation of insurance and other benefits that have been paid or made available to the Zegna Executive Director prior to the termination of service. The specific terms of the severance package of a Zegna Executive Director will be established in his or her services agreement, all in accordance with the framework provided in the remuneration policy.
Benefits
Zegna may provide to the Zegna Executive Director customary benefits such as company cars (or a car allowance), travel expenses and work related costs, medical insurance, accident insurance, D&O insurance, tax assistance and relocation allowances. In addition, in individual cases, company housing and other benefits may also be offered, such as annual clothing allowances. Such benefits are in line with general prevailing market practice, while also providing the Zegna Non-Executive Directors with enough flexibility to tailor the remuneration and benefits practices to a specific situation.
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Loans, Advances and Guarantees
Zegna will not provide any loans, advances or guarantees to Zegna Executive Director(s).
Zegna Non-Executive Director(s)
On the basis of the remuneration policy objectives, the compensation of Zegna Non-Executive Directors consists of the elements discussed below. Each year, the Zegna Non-Executive Directors will review the remuneration levels and structure applicable to the Zegna Non-Executive Directors and consider whether any adjustment is required.
Annual Base Remuneration
Zegna will pay the Zegna Non-Executive Directors an annual base fee of €150,000 payable 50% in cash and 50% in Zegna’s Ordinary Shares (“Equity Awards”), subject to a restricted stock award. The Lead Non-Executive Director will be entitled to an additional fee of €15,000 for the additional duties and responsibilities related to that role, payable in cash.
The number of Equity Awards granted to the Zegna Non-Executive Directors will be established, based on the closing stock price of the last trading day of the month preceding the date of grant, converted into Euros at the reference rate published by the European Central Bank on the closing of the same day, rounded down to the nearest whole share. The date of grant for the Equity Awards will be determined by the Zegna Non-Executive Directors. The Equity Awards will vest on the second anniversary of the date of grant.
Annual Committee Fee
Zegna will pay each Zegna Non-Executive Director serving on one of Zegna’s committees of the board an additional fee as set forth below:
• | Audit Committee - €30,000 (chairperson), €15,000 (other members) |
• | Compensation Committee - €20,000 (chairperson), €10,000 (other members) |
• | Governance and Sustainability Committee - €20,000 (chairperson), €10,000 (other members) |
Reimbursement of Expenses
Zegna will reimburse the expenses and costs reasonably incurred in relation to the performance of the Zegna Non-Executive Directors’ duties, in accordance with Zegna’s expense policy, if any.
Benefits
Zegna will subscribe to the benefit of the Zegna Non-Executive Directors a liability insurance with a coverage in line with the general market practice prevailing among companies similar to Zegna.
Loans, Advances and Guarantees
Zegna will not provide any loans, advances or guarantees to Zegna Non-Executive Directors, unless the majority of the Zegna Non-Executive Directors gives prior written approval.
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Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. is a Dutch public limited liability company (naamloze vennootschap).
The following is a summary of material terms of Zegna’s securities. It includes information relating to Zegna’s securities, the Zegna Articles of Association, the Zegna Board Regulations, the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares, the Warrant Agreement and applicable Dutch law in effect at the date of this prospectus. The summaries of the Zegna Articles of Association, the Zegna Board Regulations and the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares as set forth in this prospectus are qualified in their entirety by reference to the full text of the Zegna Articles of Association, the Zegna Board Regulations and the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares.
Corporate Seat and Place of Effective Management
Zegna is a legal entity organized under the laws of the Netherlands. It has its corporate seat (statutaire zetel) in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. The address of Zegna is Viale Roma 99/100, 13835 Valdilana loc. Trivero, Italy. Since its incorporation Zegna has had, and it intends to continue to have, its place of effective management in Italy.
Zegna is registered with the Dutch Trade Register. Its trade register number is 84808640.
Share Capital and Form of Shares
As of December 31, 2021, there were 242,343,659 Ordinary Shares issued and outstanding. As of the same date, there were also 13,416,667 Public Warrants and 6,700,000 Private Placement Warrants outstanding.
As of December 31, 2021, Zegna’s authorized share capital amounted to €18,700,000, divided into 400,000,000 Ordinary Shares, with a nominal value of €0.02 each, 200,000,000 Zegna Special Voting Shares A, with a nominal value of €0.02 each, 50,000,000 Zegna Special Voting Shares B, with a nominal value of €0.08 each and 15,000,000 Zegna Special Voting Shares C, with a nominal value of €0.18 each. In order to facilitate Zegna’s loyalty voting structure, the Zegna Articles of Association provide for transitional provisions to increase the authorized share capital when the Zegna Board makes the required filings with the Dutch Trade Register. All issued Ordinary Shares have been fully paid up.
As of December 31, 2021, 54,600,000 Ordinary Shares were held by Zegna in treasury.
All issued and outstanding Ordinary Shares and Zegna Special Voting Shares are held in registered form. No share certificates may be issued.
Issuance of Shares
The Zegna Articles of Association provide that Ordinary Shares and Zegna Special Voting Shares may be issued or rights to subscribe for shares may be granted pursuant to a resolution adopted by the Zegna General Meeting at the proposal of the Zegna Board, or alternatively, by the Zegna Board if so designated by the Zegna General Meeting. Designation by resolution of the Zegna General Meeting cannot be withdrawn unless determined otherwise at the time of designation. The scope and duration of the Zegna Board’s authority to issue shares or grant rights to subscribe for shares (such as granting stock options) will be determined by a resolution of the Zegna General Meeting and relates, at the most, to all unissued shares in Zegna’s authorized capital on the date on which the Zegna Board resolves to issue shares or grant rights to subscribe for shares. The duration of this authority may not exceed a period of five years. Designation of the Zegna Board as the body authorized to issue shares or grant rights to subscribe for shares may be extended by a resolution of the Zegna General Meeting for a period not exceeding five years in each case. The number of shares or rights to subscribe for shares that may be issued or granted is determined at the time of designation by the Zegna General Meeting.
No resolution of the Zegna General Meeting or resolution of the Zegna Board is required to issue shares pursuant to the exercise of a previously granted right to subscribe for shares.
The Zegna General Meeting adopted a resolution prior to the Closing pursuant to which the Zegna Board is authorized, for a period of five years from the date of the Closing, to issue Ordinary Shares and grant rights to subscribe for Ordinary Shares up to the authorized share capital from time to time.
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Pre-emptive Rights
Under Dutch law and the Zegna Articles of Association, each shareholder has a pre-emptive right in proportion to the aggregate number of its Ordinary Shares upon the issuance of new Ordinary Shares or the granting of rights to subscribe for Ordinary Shares. Exceptions to this pre-emptive right include the issuance of new Ordinary Shares or the granting of rights to subscribe for Ordinary Shares: (i) to employees of Zegna or another company of its group; (ii) against payment other than in cash; and (iii) to persons exercising a previously granted right to subscribe for Ordinary Shares. Holders of Zegna Special Voting Shares will not have pre-emptive rights to acquire newly issued Ordinary Shares or Zegna Special Voting Shares and no pre-emptive rights will exist with respect to the issue of Zegna Special Voting Shares. In accordance with Dutch law, pre-emptive rights may be exercised during a period of at least two weeks after the announcement of an issuance of new Ordinary Shares or a grant of rights to subscribe for Ordinary Shares in the Dutch State Gazette.
The Zegna General Meeting at the proposal of the Zegna Board, or alternatively the Zegna Board if it has been designated to do so by the Zegna General Meeting, has the authority to resolve on the limitation or exclusion of pre-emptive rights upon an issuance of Ordinary Shares or a grant of rights to subscribe for Ordinary Shares. A resolution of the Zegna General Meeting to limit or exclude pre-emptive rights or to authorize the Zegna Board to do so requires a two-thirds majority of the votes cast if less than half of the issued share capital is represented at a Zegna General Meeting. If half or more of the issued share capital is represented at the meeting, this resolution is adopted with a simple majority of the votes cast.
Pursuant to Dutch law, the Zegna Board may be designated as the competent body to limit or exclude pre-emption rights for a specified period of time not exceeding five years, but only if the Zegna Board has also been authorized or is simultaneously authorized to issue Ordinary Shares. If a proposal is made by the Zegna Board to the Zegna General Meeting to limit or exclude pre-emptive rights, the reasons for the proposal and the choice of the intended price of issue must be explained in writing.
The Zegna General Meeting adopted a resolution prior to the Closing pursuant to which the Zegna Board is authorized, for a period of five years from the Closing Date, to limit or exclude pre-emptive rights in connection with an issuance of Ordinary Shares or grant of rights to subscribe for Ordinary Shares.
Repurchase of Shares
Zegna and each of its subsidiaries may acquire Ordinary Shares and Zegna Special Voting Shares, subject to certain provisions of Dutch law and the Zegna Articles of Association and the articles of association of such subsidiary, as applicable. Ordinary Shares or Zegna Special Voting Shares may be acquired by Zegna or a subsidiary against no consideration or against consideration. Ordinary Shares or Zegna Special Voting Shares may only be acquired against consideration if (i) Zegna’s shareholders’ equity (eigen vermogen) less the acquisition price is not less than the sum of the paid-up and called-up share capital and any reserves to be maintained by Dutch law or the Zegna Articles of Association, (ii) Zegna and its subsidiaries would not thereafter hold shares or hold shares as pledgee with an aggregate nominal value exceeding 50% of Zegna’s then current issued and outstanding share capital, and (iii) the Zegna Board has been designated to do so by its shareholders at a Zegna General Meeting. The designation of the Zegna Board is not required if Zegna acquires fully paid-up Ordinary Shares for the purpose of transferring these to employees of Zegna under any applicable equity compensation plan.
The Zegna General Meeting adopted a resolution prior to the Closing to authorize the Zegna Board for a period of 18 months from the Closing Date, to repurchase Ordinary Shares, on the open market, through privately negotiated repurchases, in self-tender offers, or through accelerated repurchase arrangements, representing up to 10% of Zegna’s issued share capital at the time of such repurchase, provided that the Zegna Board is authorized to repurchase Ordinary Shares representing up to 20% of Zegna’s issued share capital at the time of such repurchase if Zegna intends to cancel or transfer the the repurchased Ordinary Shares within 12 months from the date of such repurchase, at prices ranging from the nominal value of the Ordinary Shares up to 110% of the market price for the Ordinary Shares; provided that (i) for open market or privately negotiated repurchases, the market price shall be the price for the Ordinary Shares on the NYSE at the time of the transaction; (ii) for self-tender offers, the market price shall be the volume weighted average price (the “VWAP”) for the Ordinary Shares on the NYSE during a period, determined by the Board, of no less than one and no greater than five consecutive trading days immediately prior to the expiration of the tender offer; and (iii) for accelerated repurchase arrangements, the market price shall be the VWAP for the Ordinary Shares on the NYSE over the term of the arrangement. The VWAP of any number of trading days shall be calculated as the arithmetic average of the daily VWAP on those trading days.
Reduction of Share Capital
The Zegna General Meeting may resolve to reduce Zegna’s issued share capital by a cancellation of shares or by reducing the nominal value of the shares by amending the Zegna Articles of Association. A resolution to cancel shares may only relate to shares held by Zegna itself or all issued shares of any class of Zegna Special Voting Shares. A resolution to cancel all issued shares of any class of Zegna Special Voting Shares will be subject to approval of the meeting of holders of such class of Zegna Special Voting Shares. Cancellation of a class of Zegna Special Voting Shares will take place without the repayment of the nominal value of the class of Zegna Special Voting Shares, which nominal value will be added to the special capital reserve.
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Any reduction of the nominal value of the Ordinary Shares or a class of Zegna Special Voting Shares without repayment must be made pro rata on all such shares. Any reduction of the nominal value of the Zegna Special Voting Shares will take place without repayment.
A resolution of the Zegna General Meeting to reduce the share capital requires a majority of at least two-thirds of the votes cast at a Zegna General Meeting if less than half of the issued share capital is represented at the meeting. If half or more of the issued share capital is represented at the meeting, such resolution is adopted with a simple majority of the votes cast.
In addition, Dutch law contains detailed provisions regarding the reduction of share capital. A resolution to reduce the issued share capital shall not take effect before a two months creditor opposition period has lapsed.
Transfer of Shares
Pursuant to Dutch law and the Zegna Articles of Association, the transfer of Ordinary Shares or Zegna Special Voting Shares (in each case, other than in book-entry form) or the creation of a right in rem on such shares requires a deed intended for that purpose and, save when Zegna is a party to the deed, written acknowledgment by Zegna of the transfer or the creation.
Pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, for as long as Ordinary Shares are listed on a regulated foreign stock exchange, the Zegna Board may resolve, in accordance with applicable Dutch law, that the preceding paragraph shall not apply to the Ordinary Shares that are registered in the part of the shareholders register which is kept outside the Netherlands by a registrar appointed by the Zegna Board for the purpose of the listing on such foreign stock exchange and that the property law aspects of such shares shall be governed by the law of the state of establishment of such stock exchange or by the law of the state in which deliveries and other legal acts under property law relating to the Ordinary Shares can or must be made with the consent of such stock exchange.
Pursuant to Dutch law and the Zegna Articles of Association, the Ordinary Shares are freely transferable. The Ordinary Shares which are registered in the Loyalty Register to participate in Zegna’s loyalty voting structure are subject to the transfer restrictions described under “—Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares—Cancellation of Zegna Special Voting Shares.”
No Liability to Further Capital Calls
All issued Ordinary Shares have been fully paid up.
Discriminating Provisions
There are no provisions in the Zegna Articles of Association that discriminate against a shareholder because of its ownership of a certain number of shares.
Dividends and Other Distributions
Pursuant to Dutch law and the Zegna Articles of Association, the distribution of dividends will take place following the adoption of the annual accounts, from which Zegna will determine whether such distribution is permitted. Zegna may make distributions to its shareholders, whether from profits or from Zegna’s freely distributable reserves, only insofar as Zegna’s shareholders’ equity exceeds the sum of the paid-up and called-up share capital plus any reserves to be maintained by Dutch law or the Zegna Articles of Association.
The Zegna Board may resolve to reserve the profits or part of the profits. Any profits remaining after the reservation referred to in the previous sentence by the Zegna Board will first be applied to allocate and add to the dividend reserve for each class of Zegna Special Voting Shares an amount equal to 1% of the aggregate nominal value of all issued and outstanding Zegna Special Voting Shares of that class. The profits remaining after application of the preceding sentence will be at the disposal of the Zegna General Meeting, which may resolve to add the remaining profits to the reserves or distribute them to the holders of Ordinary Shares. Distributions of dividends will be made to Zegna’s shareholders in proportion to the nominal value of their Ordinary Shares.
Pursuant to Dutch law and the Zegna Articles of Association, the Zegna Board or the Zegna General Meeting at the proposal of the Zegna Board are allowed to resolve upon interim distributions on Ordinary Shares. For this purpose, the Zegna Board must prepare an interim statement of assets and liabilities. Such interim statement shall show Zegna’s financial position not earlier than on the first day of the third month before the month in which the resolution to make the interim distribution is announced. An interim dividend can only be paid if (i) an interim statement of assets and liabilities is drawn up showing that the funds available for
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distribution are sufficient, and (ii) Zegna’s shareholders’ equity exceeds the sum of the paid-up and called-up share capital and any reserves to be maintained by Dutch law or the Zegna Articles of Association. Interim distributions may be made in cash, in kind or in the form of Ordinary Shares.
Holders of Zegna Special Voting Shares will not receive any dividends in respect of the Zegna Special Voting Shares; however, Zegna will maintain a separate dividend reserve for each class of Zegna Special Voting Shares for the sole purpose of the allocation of the mandatory minimal profits that accrue to the Zegna Special Voting Shares (as further described under “—Loyalty Voting Structure”). Any distribution out of a special voting shares dividend reserve or the partial or full release of any such reserve will require a prior proposal from the Zegna Board and a resolution of the meeting of holders of the relevant class of Zegna Special Voting Shares, and will be made exclusively to the holders of the relevant class of Zegna Special Voting Shares in proportion to the aggregate nominal value of such relevant class of Zegna Special Voting Shares.
Distributions are payable on the day determined by the Zegna Board. Distributions will lapse if the distributions are not claimed within five years and one day following the date when they became payable.
Board of Directors
Zegna Board Composition
Pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, Zegna has a one-tier board consisting of one or more Zegna Executive Directors and one or more Zegna Non-Executive Directors. The Zegna Board determines the number of Zegna Executive Directors and Zegna Non-Executive Directors, provided that the majority of the Zegna Board will consist of Zegna Non-Executive Directors.
The Zegna Board is currently composed of eleven members, as described in “Board of Directors and Senior Management—Board of Directors.”
The Zegna Board has adopted a diversity policy to ensure gender representation and diversity on the Zegna Board in accordance with applicable law and in pursuit of best market practices.
The Zegna Executive Directors are primarily responsible for all day-to-day operations of Zegna. The Zegna Non-Executive Directors, among others, supervise (i) the Zegna Executive Directors’ policy and performance of duties and (ii) Zegna’s general affairs and its business, and render advice and direction to the Zegna Executive Directors. The Zegna Non-Executive Directors furthermore perform any duties allocated to them under or pursuant to Dutch law or the Zegna Articles of Association. The Zegna Executive Directors will timely provide the Zegna Non-Executive Directors with the information they need to carry out their duties.
The Zegna Board may allocate its duties and powers among the Zegna Directors and the committees of the Zegna Board in or in accordance with the Zegna Board Regulations or otherwise in writing.
The Zegna Board may in its discretion grant one of the Zegna Non-Executive Directors the title Vice Chairman and may grant such additional titles the Zegna Board deems appropriate to any Zegna Director. The Zegna Board determines which Zegna Non-Executive Director will act as Lead Non-Executive Director and chair (voorzitter) as referred to under Dutch law.
Nomination and Appointment
Zegna Directors are appointed by the Zegna General Meeting on a binding nomination by the Zegna Board, provided that one Zegna Non-Executive Director is appointed on a binding nomination by the IIAC Sponsor if at the time of the convocation of the relevant Zegna General Meeting the Sponsor Group satisfies the Minimum Holding Requirement. The nomination of the Sponsor Nominee by the IIAC Sponsor is subject to the approval of the Zegna Board in its discretion if he or she has not previously served as Zegna Director.
The IIAC Sponsor’s right to make a nomination for one Zegna Non-Executive Director will lapse with immediate effect if the Sponsor Group fails to satisfy the Minimum Holding Requirement, provided that if such failure is not caused by a sale or transfer of Ordinary Shares by any member of the Sponsor Group, the IIAC Sponsor’s nomination right will lapse if such failure continues for a period of 20 trading days from the date on which any member of the Sponsor Group had knowledge of such failure. Upon the termination of the nomination right, the Sponsor Nominee (or any temporary Zegna Director replacing a Sponsor Nominee) shall resign from the Zegna Board with immediate effect at the request of Zegna.
The Zegna General Meeting will at all times be allowed to overrule a binding nomination for the appointment of a Zegna Director by a simple majority of the votes cast, representing more than one-third of Zegna’s issued share capital. If a majority of the votes are cast in favor of overruling the binding nomination, but that majority does not represent more than one third of Zegna’s issued share capital, a new Zegna General Meeting may be convened at which the resolution to overrule the binding nomination may be adopted by a simple majority of the votes cast, regardless of Zegna’s issued share capital represented by that majority.
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In the event the binding nomination for the appointment of any Zegna Director other than the Sponsor Nominee is overruled, the Zegna Board is allowed to make a new binding nomination to fill the vacancy. In the event that also this binding nomination is overruled, the Zegna General Meeting shall be free to appoint a Zegna Director to fill the vacancy. In the event the binding nomination for the appointment of the Sponsor Nominee is overruled, the IIAC Sponsor may make a new binding nomination to fill the vacancy, provided that at the time of the convocation of the relevant Zegna General Meeting, the Sponsor Group satisfies the Minimum Holding Requirement.
Term of Office; Suspension; Dismissal; Conflict of Interest
Each Zegna Director is appointed for a term ending at the close of the first annual Zegna General Meeting following his or her appointment. Each Zegna Director may be reappointed.
The Zegna General Meeting may at all times suspend or dismiss a Zegna Director. Such resolution will require a majority of at least two-thirds of the votes cast, representing more than half of Zegna’s issued share capital, or, if such resolution is proposed by the Zegna Board, by a simple majority of the votes cast, representing more than half of Zegna’s issued share capital. A Zegna Director will not participate in the deliberations and decision-making process if such Zegna Director has a direct or indirect personal conflict of interest with Zegna and its associated business enterprise. If the Zegna Board is unable to adopt a resolution as a result of all Zegna Directors being unable to participate in the deliberations and decision-making process due to a conflict of interest, the resolution may nevertheless be adopted by the Zegna Board.
Liability of Directors
Pursuant to Dutch law, each Zegna Director may be held jointly and severally liable to Zegna for damages in the event of improper or negligent performance of his or her duties. Furthermore, Zegna Directors may be held liable to third parties based on tort pursuant to certain provisions of the Dutch Civil Code. All Zegna Directors are jointly and severally liable for failure of one or more co-directors. An individual Zegna Director will only be exempt from liability if he or she proves that he or she cannot be held culpable for the mismanagement and that he or she has not been negligent in seeking to prevent the consequences of the mismanagement. In this regard a Zegna Director may, however, refer to the allocation of tasks among the Zegna Directors.
Board Regulations
Pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, the Zegna Board has adopted regulations dealing with its internal organization, the manner in which decisions are taken, the place and manner in which meetings are held, the composition, the duties and organization of committees of the Zegna Board and any other matters concerning the Zegna Board, Zegna Directors and committees established by the Zegna Board.
Decision-making
Pursuant to the Zegna Board Regulations, the Zegna Board strives to adopt its resolutions by consensus. If this is not possible, resolutions are adopted by a majority of votes cast, unless provided otherwise by the Zegna Board Regulations. In the event of a tied vote, the proposal is rejected, unless the Zegna Board Regulations provide otherwise. Each Zegna Director shall have one vote.
Pursuant to the Zegna Board Regulations, the Zegna Board will only adopt resolutions at a meeting if the majority of the directors entitled to vote is present or represented at the meeting. If the Lead Non-Executive Director and the Chairperson believe there is an urgent situation that requires an immediate resolution by the Zegna Board, they may decide that the aforementioned quorum requirement does not apply provided that (i) at least two Directors entitled to vote are present or represented at the meeting including at least one Zegna Executive Director (provided, however, that any such Zegna Executive Director is entitled to vote on the matters being considered), and (ii) reasonable efforts have been made to involve the other Directors in the decision-making.
The Zegna Articles of Association and Dutch law provide that resolutions of the Zegna Board regarding an important change in Zegna’s identity or character or its associated business enterprise are subject to the approval of the Zegna General Meeting. Such resolutions include in any event: (i) the transfer of the business of Zegna or practically the entire business of Zegna to a third party; (ii) concluding or cancelling a long-lasting cooperation of Zegna or a subsidiary with another legal entity or company or as a fully liable partner in a partnership, provided that the cooperation or cancellation is of material significance to Zegna; and (iii) acquiring or disposing of a participating interest in the share capital of a company with a value of at least one-third of Zegna’s assets, as shown in the consolidated balance sheet with explanatory notes according to the last adopted annual accounts, by Zegna or a subsidiary.
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Representation
The Zegna Board as a whole and any Zegna Executive Director acting individually are authorized to represent Zegna. The Zegna Board may authorize one or more persons, whether or not employed by Zegna, to represent Zegna on a continuing basis or authorize in a different manner one or more persons to represent Zegna.
Indemnification of Zegna Directors and Officers
Under Dutch law, indemnification provisions may be included in a company’s articles of association. Pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, Zegna is required to indemnify any and all of the Zegna Directors, officers, former Zegna Directors, former officers and any person who may have served at its request as a director or officer of a subsidiary of Zegna, who were or are made a party or are threatened to be made a party or are involved in, any threatened, pending or completed action, suit, or proceeding, whether civil, criminal, administrative, arbitrative or investigative (each, a “Proceeding”), or any appeal in such a Proceeding or any inquiry or investigation that could lead to such a Proceeding against any and all liabilities, damages, documented expenses (including attorney’s fees), financial effects of judgments, fines, penalties (including excise and similar taxes and punitive damages) and amounts paid in settlement in connection with such Proceeding by any of them. Notwithstanding the above, no indemnification will be made (i) in respect of any claim, issue or matter as to which any of the above-mentioned indemnified persons will be adjudged in a final and non-appealable decision to be liable for gross negligence or willful misconduct in the performance of such person’s duty to Zegna or (ii) to the extent that the costs or the capital losses of the above-mentioned indemnified persons are paid by another party or covered by an insurance policy and the insurer has paid out these costs or capital losses. This indemnification by Zegna will not be exclusive of any other rights to which those indemnified may be entitled otherwise.
Loyalty Voting Structure
Zegna has adopted a loyalty voting structure, in order to strengthen the stability of Zegna and foster the development and the continuous involvement of a stable base of long-term Zegna shareholders.
The Zegna Special Voting Shares are governed by the provisions included in the Zegna Articles of Association and the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares. These documents govern the issuance, allocation, acquisition, conversion, sale, holding, repurchase and transfer of the Zegna Special Voting Shares and certain aspects of the registration of the Ordinary Shares in the Loyalty Register.
The loyalty voting structure provides the Zegna shareholders with the opportunity to participate in the loyalty voting structure by requesting Zegna to register all or some of their Ordinary Shares in the Loyalty Register. The registration of Ordinary Shares in the Loyalty Register will block such shares from trading on the NYSE. If a number of Ordinary Shares have been registered in the Loyalty Register for an uninterrupted period of two years in the name of the same shareholder, such shares become eligible to receive Zegna Special Voting Shares A. The relevant shareholder will receive one Zegna Special Voting Share A per eligible Ordinary Share. Each Zegna Special Voting Share A will automatically be converted into a Zegna Special Voting Share B and each Zegna Special Voting Share B will automatically be converted into a Zegna Special Voting Share C, upon the issuance of the relevant conversion statement by Zegna. The requirements for the conversions are:
• | after holding a number of Ordinary Shares for an uninterrupted period of five years following the registration of such number of Ordinary Shares in the Loyalty Register, and without such number of Ordinary Shares being de-registered from the Loyalty Register in such period, each Zegna Special Voting Share A corresponding to such number of Ordinary Shares will automatically be converted into a Zegna Special Voting Share B; and |
• | after holding a number of Ordinary Shares for an uninterrupted period of ten years following the registration of such number of Ordinary Shares in the Loyalty Register, and without such number of Ordinary Shares being de-registered from the Loyalty Register in such period, each Zegna Special Voting Share B corresponding to such number of Ordinary Shares will automatically be converted into a Zegna Special Voting Share C. |
Each class of Zegna Special Voting Shares will entitle the relevant holders to the following number of votes, in addition to the voting rights attached to each Ordinary Share:
• | each Zegna Special Voting Share A will entitle its holder with one extra vote; |
• | each Zegna Special Voting Share B will entitle its holder with four extra votes; and |
• | each Zegna Special Voting Share C will entitle its holder with nine extra votes. |
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If, at any time, a number of Ordinary Shares are de-registered from the Loyalty Register for whatever reason, the relevant shareholder will lose its entitlement to hold a corresponding number of Zegna Special Voting Shares.
A holder of Ordinary Shares registered in the Loyalty Register is allowed to request the de-registration of some or all of such shares from the Loyalty Register at any time, which will allow such shareholder to freely trade such shares. From the moment of such a request, the holder of the Ordinary Shares registered in the Loyalty Register will be considered to have waived his or her rights to cast any votes associated with the Zegna Special Voting Shares to be de-registered from the Loyalty Register. Upon the de-registration from the Loyalty Register, the holder of the relevant number of Ordinary Shares will cease to be entitled to receive Zegna Special Voting Shares. Any de-registration request will automatically trigger a mandatory transfer requirement pursuant to which the relevant Zegna Special Voting Shares will be acquired by Zegna for no consideration (om niet) in accordance with the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares.
The Ordinary Shares are freely transferable (subject to the limitations described under “—Transfer of Shares” above). However, any transfer or disposal of Ordinary Shares registered in the Loyalty Register not permitted by the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares will trigger the de-registration of such shares from the Loyalty Register and the transfer of all relevant Zegna Special Voting Shares to Zegna.
The Zegna Special Voting Shares are not listed and are transferable only in very limited circumstances (including, among other things, transfers to certain affiliates or to relatives through succession, donation or other transfers, provided that the corresponding Ordinary Shares registered in the Loyalty Register are also transferred to such party, or transfers with the approval of the Zegna Board). In particular, no shareholder will be allowed to, directly or indirectly: (a) sell, dispose of, trade or transfer any Zegna Special Voting Shares or otherwise grant any right or interest in any Zegna Special Voting Share, other than as permitted pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association or the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares; or (b) establish or permit to establish any pledge, lien, fixed or floating charge or other encumbrance over any Zegna Special Voting Share or any interest in any Zegna Special Voting Share.
The purpose of the loyalty voting structure is to grant long-term shareholders extra voting rights by means of granting Zegna Special Voting Shares, without entitling such shareholders to any economic rights, other than those pertaining to the Ordinary Shares. However, under Dutch law, the Zegna Special Voting Shares cannot be totally excluded from economic entitlements. As a result, pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, holders of Zegna Special Voting Shares will be entitled to a minimum dividend, which is allocated to separate special voting shares dividend reserves. Any distribution out of a special voting shares dividend reserve or the partial or full release of any such reserve will require a prior proposal from the Zegna Board and a resolution of the meeting of holders of the relevant class of Zegna Special Voting Shares, and will be made exclusively to the holders of the relevant class of Zegna Special Voting Shares in proportion to the aggregate nominal value of the relevant class of their Zegna Special Voting Shares. The powers to vote upon the distribution from the special voting shares dividend reserve and the cancellation of all issued Zegna Special Voting Shares of a specific class are the only powers that are granted to the meeting of holders of Zegna Special Voting Shares of the relevant class pursuant to Zegna Articles of Association.
The Zegna Board is allowed to amend the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares, provided, however, that any material, not merely technical amendment will be subject to approval of the Zegna General Meeting, unless such amendment is required to ensure compliance with applicable laws and or stock exchange rules.
Zegna Special Voting Shares Foundation
Pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, a Dutch foundation (stichting) (the “SVS Foundation”) has the right to subscribe for a number of Zegna Special Voting Shares A, Zegna Special Voting Shares B and Zegna Special Voting Shares C up to the number of such class of Zegna Special Voting Shares included in Zegna’s authorized share capital from time to time. The SVS Foundation is only allowed to exercise the option right to facilitate the loyalty voting structure set forth in the Zegna Articles of Association and the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares. The option right is granted to the SVS Foundation for an unlimited period and is intended to ensure that holders of eligible Ordinary Shares in the future will receive their Zegna Special Voting Shares without requiring a resolution from the Zegna General Meeting. Under the structure of the SVS Foundation, once a shareholder of Zegna becomes entitled to receive Zegna Special Voting Shares A, Zegna will issue such Zegna Special Voting Shares A to the SVS Foundation pursuant to the SVS Foundation’s exercise of its option right and, thereafter, the SVS Foundation will transfer the Zegna Special Voting Shares A to such shareholder. To the extent required, and only if Zegna fails to issue a conversion statement, the SVS Foundation will have the right to subscribe for Zegna Special Voting Shares B and Zegna Special Voting Shares C to facilitate the loyalty voting structure
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Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares
The Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares apply to the issuance, allocation, acquisition, conversion, sale, holding, repurchase and transfer of the Zegna Special Voting Shares and certain aspects of the registration of the Ordinary Shares in the Loyalty Register.
Special Capital Reserve
Zegna will maintain a special capital reserve, exclusively for the purpose of facilitating the issuance, conversion, or cancellation of the Zegna Special Voting Shares. The amounts required to maintain the special capital reserve will be charged exclusively against Zegna’s share premium reserve. Without prejudice to the next sentence, no distributions shall be made from the special capital reserve. The Zegna Board will be authorized to resolve upon (i) any distribution out of the special capital reserve to pay-up the Zegna Special Voting Shares or (ii) re-allocation of amounts to credit or debit the special capital reserve against or in favor of the share premium reserves Zegna will maintain.
Cancellation of Zegna Special Voting Shares
Following a mandatory transfer to Zegna of Zegna Special Voting Shares after a de-registration of eligible Ordinary Shares from the Loyalty Register, Zegna will be allowed to continue to hold the Zegna Special Voting Shares as treasury shares, but will not be entitled to vote on any such treasury shares. Alternatively, Zegna will be allowed to cancel the Zegna Special Voting Shares held in treasury, as a result of which the nominal value of such shares will be added to the special capital reserve. Zegna will also be allowed to cancel all issued and outstanding Zegna Special Voting Shares of a specific class, subject to approval of the meeting of holders of the relevant class of Zegna Special Voting Shares. Consequently, the loyalty voting feature will terminate, and the relevant Ordinary Shares will be de-registered from the Loyalty Register. No shareholder, who will be required to transfer Zegna Special Voting Shares to Zegna pursuant to the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares will be entitled to any consideration for such Zegna Special Voting Shares and each shareholder will expressly waive any rights in that respect as a condition to participation in the loyalty voting structure.
Change of Control
A shareholder with Ordinary Shares registered in the Loyalty Register must promptly notify Zegna in the event of a change of control (as such term is defined in the Terms and Conditions of the Zegna Special Voting Shares) with respect to such shareholder and must make a de-registration request with respect to all his or her Ordinary Shares registered in the Loyalty Register. The de-registration request leads to a withdrawal of the Zegna Special Voting Shares as described under “ —Loyalty Voting Structure.” Notwithstanding Zegna not receiving any such notification, it will be allowed, upon becoming aware of a change of control, to initiate the de-registration of the relevant shareholder’s Ordinary Shares from the Loyalty Register.
Affirmative Vote of the Sponsor Nominee
Pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, the affirmative vote of the Sponsor Nominee is required for resolutions of the Zegna Board concerning the following matters, provided that the Sponsor Group satisfies the Minimum Holding Requirement:
• | making a proposal to the Zegna General Meeting concerning any amendment of the Zegna Articles of Association which adversely affects the rights of the IIAC Sponsor specifically (as opposed to its rights arising from the ownership of Ordinary Shares or Zegna Special Voting Shares that are shared on a pro rata basis by the other holders of the same class); |
• | cessation or material alteration of the principal business of Zegna, including a material change to its corporate purpose, or change of jurisdiction of organization; |
• | expansion of the Zegna Board to more than fifteen members without granting the IIAC Sponsor the right to nominate an additional Zegna Director to preserve its proportional representation; |
• | dissolution or termination of any standing committee of the Zegna Board; |
• | deregistration of Zegna or delisting of the Ordinary Shares from the NYSE; and |
• | making a proposal to the Zegna General Meeting for the appointment or removal of Zegna’s independent auditors, but only if the replacement is not from among Deloitte, Ernst & Young, KPMG or PricewaterhouseCoopers. |
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The IIAC Sponsor’s rights described above will lapse with immediate effect if the Sponsor Group fails to satisfy the Minimum Holding Requirement, provided that if such failure is not caused by a sale or transfer of Ordinary Shares by a member of the Sponsor Group, the IIAC Sponsor’s rights will lapse if such failure continues for a period of 20 trading days from the date on which any members of the Sponsor Group had knowledge of such failure.
Zegna General Meetings
Zegna General Meetings will be held in Amsterdam, Haarlemmermeer (which includes Schiphol Airport), The Hague or Rotterdam, the Netherlands. The annual Zegna General Meeting shall be held no later than six months after the end of the financial year on the date and at the place mentioned in the convocation notice. Additional extraordinary Zegna General Meetings may also be held whenever considered appropriate by the Zegna Board. Pursuant to Dutch law, one or more shareholders, who solely or jointly represent at least 10% of the issued and outstanding share capital, may request the Zegna Board to convene a Zegna General Meeting. If the Zegna Board has not taken the steps necessary to ensure that a Zegna General Meeting is held within the relevant statutory period after the request, the requesting person(s) may, at his/her/their request, be authorized by a court in preliminary relief proceedings to convene a Zegna General Meeting.
Zegna General Meetings shall be convened by a notice, which shall include an agenda stating the items to be discussed, including for the annual Zegna General Meeting, among other things, the discussion and adoption of the annual accounts, appropriation of Zegna’s profits, and proposals relating to the Zegna Board, including the appointment or re-appointment of Zegna Directors and the filling of any vacancies in the Zegna Board. In addition, the agenda shall include such items as have been included therein by the Zegna Board. One or more of shareholders, alone or together, representing at least 3% of the issued and outstanding share capital may also request to include items in the agenda of a Zegna General Meeting. Requests must be made in writing and received by the Zegna Board at least 60 days before the day of the meeting. No resolutions shall be adopted on items other than those which have been included in the agenda. In accordance with the DCGC, a shareholder may only request the inclusion of an item on the agenda after consulting the Zegna Board in that respect. If one or more of Zegna’s shareholders intend to request that an item be put on the agenda for a Zegna General Meeting that may result in a change in Zegna’s strategy, pursuant to the DCGC, the Zegna Board may invoke a response time of a maximum of 180 days until the day of the Zegna General Meeting. In addition, recently, a statutory response time became effective in the Netherlands. If shareholders request a change to the composition of the Zegna Board or of corresponding provisions in the Zegna Articles of Association, and in the case of an unsolicited public offer, the statutory response time may be invoked by the Zegna Board, being a period of, depending on the circumstances, no more than 250 days. The Zegna General Meeting is presided over by the Chairperson or, if the Chairperson is absent or no Zegna Director has been designated as Chairperson, by the Lead Non-Executive Director.
The Zegna Directors may attend a Zegna General Meeting in person or by electronic means of communication. The chairperson of the meeting may decide at his or her discretion to admit other persons to the meeting.
The external auditor of Zegna may attend the annual Zegna General Meeting in which the annual accounts are discussed.
Record Date
When convening a Zegna General Meeting, the Zegna Board is allowed to determine that persons with the right to vote or attend such meeting are considered those persons who have these rights at the 28th day prior to the date of the meeting (the “Zegna Record Date”) and are registered as such in a register to be designated by the Zegna Board for such purpose, regardless of whether they have these rights at the date of the meeting. In order for a person to be able to attend a Zegna General Meeting and to have the right to vote in such meeting, such person must notify Zegna in writing of his or her intention to do so no later than on the day and in the manner mentioned in the convocation notice for the Zegna General Meeting.
Voting Rights and Quorum at Zegna General Meetings
Each Ordinary Share and each Zegna Special Voting Share A confers the right to cast one vote, each Zegna Special Voting Share B confers the right to cast four votes and each Zegna Special Voting Share C confers the right to cast nine votes in a Zegna General Meeting. For more information about the Zegna Special Voting Shares, please refer to “ —Loyalty Voting Structure.” No votes may be cast at a Zegna General Meeting on shares held by Zegna or Zegna’s subsidiaries. Nonetheless, the holders of a right of usufruct in respect of Ordinary Shares are not excluded from the right to vote on such shares, if the right of usufruct or the right of pledge was granted prior to the time such share was acquired by Zegna or any of Zegna’s subsidiaries. Zegna may not cast votes on shares in respect of which Zegna or a subsidiary holds a right of usufruct or a right of pledge. Ordinary Shares which are not entitled to voting rights pursuant to the preceding sentences will not be taken into account for the purpose of determining the number of shares on which votes may be cast, or the amount of the share capital that is present or represented at a Zegna General Meeting. Unless Dutch law or the Zegna Articles of Association state otherwise, all resolutions adopted at the Zegna General Meeting are adopted with a simple majority of the votes cast.
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No quorum requirements apply.
Pursuant to Dutch law, when determining the extent to which shareholders vote, are present or represented, or the extent to which the share capital is present or represented, no account shall be taken of shares in respect of which the law or the Zegna Articles of Association provide that no votes may be cast.
Meetings of Holders of Shares of a Specific Class
Meetings of holders of shares of a specific class will be held whenever the Zegna Board calls such meetings.
Meetings of holders of shares of a specific class may be convened no later than on the sixth day before the day of such meeting. The provisions applicable to Zegna General Meetings, except those concerning the frequency, notice period and the Zegna Record Date, will apply mutatis mutandis to the meetings of holders of shares of a specific class. See “—Zegna General Meetings—Voting Rights and Quorum at Zegna General Meetings.”
Annual Accounts and Independent Auditor
Zegna’s financial year coincides with the calendar year. Within five months after the end of each financial year, which period may be extended with five months upon a resolution of the Zegna General Meeting on grounds of special circumstances, the Zegna Board will prepare and publish the annual accounts, consisting of a balance sheet, a profit and loss account and explanatory notes and which must be accompanied by a management report and auditor’s report, alongside any other information that would need to be made public in accordance with the applicable provisions of law and the requirements of the NYSE. All Zegna Directors are required to sign the annual accounts and in case the signature of any member is missing, the reason for this must be stated.
The annual accounts are to be adopted by the Zegna General Meeting. The annual accounts, the management report and independent auditor’s report will be made available at Zegna’s address to the shareholders for review as from the day of the notice convening the Zegna General Meeting at which they are discussed.
Amendments to the Zegna Articles of Association
A resolution of the Zegna General Meeting to amend the Zegna Articles of Association may only be adopted by the Zegna General Meeting at the proposal of the Zegna Board, which proposal requires the affirmative vote of the Sponsor Nominee if any amendment adversely affects the rights of the IIAC Sponsor specifically, as described under “ —Affirmative Vote of the Sponsor Nominee.” A resolution regarding the amendment of the Zegna Articles of Association will require a simple majority of the votes cast.
Dissolution and Liquidation
Zegna may only be dissolved by a resolution of the Zegna General Meeting at the proposal of the Zegna Board. If a resolution to dissolve Zegna is to be submitted to the Zegna General Meeting, this must in all cases be stated in the convocation notice for the relevant Zegna General Meeting. If the Zegna General Meeting resolves to dissolve Zegna, the members of the Zegna Board will be charged with the liquidation of the business of Zegna, unless the Zegna General Meeting resolves otherwise at the proposal of the Zegna Board. During liquidation, the provisions of the Zegna Articles of Association will remain in force as long as possible.
If Zegna is dissolved and liquidated, whatever remains of Zegna’s equity after all its debts have been satisfied will be divided. Firstly, the balance of the dividend reserve for each class of Zegna Special Voting Shares will be for the benefit of the holders of Zegna Special Voting Shares of that class in proportion to the aggregate nominal value of the class of their Zegna Special Voting Shares. Any balance remaining will be for the benefit of the holders of Ordinary Shares in proportion to the aggregate nominal value of Ordinary Shares held by each of them.
Squeeze Out
Pursuant to article 2:92a of the Dutch Civil Code, a shareholder who, for his or her own account, holds at least 95% of Zegna’s issued and outstanding share capital may initiate proceedings against the other shareholders jointly for the transfer of their shares to the claimant. The proceedings are held before the Dutch Enterprise Chamber (Ondernemingskamer) and can be instituted by means of a writ of summons served upon each of the minority shareholders in accordance with the provisions of the Dutch Code of
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Civil procedure (Wetboek van Burgerlijke Rechtsvordering). The Dutch Enterprise Chamber may grant the claim for the squeeze-out in relation to all minority shareholders and will determine the price to be paid for the shares, if necessary after appointment of one to three expert(s) who will offer an opinion to the Dutch Enterprise Chamber on the value to be paid for the shares of the minority shareholders. Once the order to transfer becomes final before the Dutch Enterprise Chamber, the person acquiring the shares must give written notice of the date and place of payment and the price to the holders of the shares to be acquired whose addresses are known to him or her. Unless the addresses of all of them are known to the acquiring person, such person is required to publish the same in a Dutch national daily newspaper.
Financial Reporting under Dutch Law
The Dutch Financial Reporting Supervision Act (Wet toezicht financiële verslaggeving, the “FRSA”), applies to Zegna’s financial reporting. Under the FRSA, the Dutch Authority for the Financial Markets (Autoriteit Financiële Markten, “AFM”) supervises the application of financial reporting standards by, among others, companies whose corporate seats are in the Netherlands and whose securities are listed on a regulated market within the EU or on an equivalent third (non-EU) country market. As Zegna has its corporate seat in the Netherlands and the Ordinary Shares are listed on the NYSE, the FRSA is applicable to Zegna.
Pursuant to the FRSA, the AFM has an independent right to (i) request an explanation from Zegna regarding the application of the applicable financial reporting standards and thereafter (ii) make informal arrangements with Zegna that must be observed in the future or make a notification to Zegna that its financial reports do not meet the applicable financial reporting standards, which notification may be accompanied by a reccommendation to Zegna to issue a press release on the subject matter.. If Zegna does not comply or comply adequately with such a request or recommendation, the AFM may request that the Dutch Enterprise Chamber orders Zegna to (i) provide an explanation on the way it has applied the applicable financial reporting standards to its financial reports or (ii) prepare its financial reports in accordance with the Dutch Enterprise Chamber’s instructions.
Certain Insider Trading and Market Manipulation Laws
Regulation (EU) No 596/2014 of the European Parliament and of the Council of April 16, 2014 (the “MAR”) on abuse rules does not apply to Zegna or to the Ordinary Shares as the Ordinary Shares are solely listed on the NYSE, a stock exchange outside the European Economic Area. As a result, there are no EU rules or Dutch rules applicable to Zegna relating to market abuse, such as insider trading, tipping, market manipulation and notification rules for director dealings.
Certain Disclosure and Reporting Obligations of Zegna Directors, Officers and Shareholders of Zegna
Zegna Directors, officers, and shareholders of Zegna are subject to certain disclosure and reporting obligations under Dutch law. The following is a description of the general disclosure obligations of Zegna Directors, officers, and shareholders under Dutch law as such laws exist as of the date of this prospectus and should not be viewed as legal advice for specific circumstances.
As Zegna has its corporate seat in the Netherlands and has its Ordinary Shares listed on a third (non-EU) country market equivalent to a regulated market (i.e. NYSE), Zegna is subject to the DCGC. The DCGC contains both principles and suggested governance provisions for one-tier boards, executive and non-executive directors, shareholders and general meetings, financial reporting, auditors, disclosure compliance and enforcement standards.
The DCGC is based on a “comply or explain” principle. Accordingly, Zegna is required to disclose in its management report publicly filed in the Netherlands, whether or not it is complying with the various provisions of the DCGC. If Zegna does not comply with one or more of those provisions (e.g., because of a conflicting NYSE requirement or U.S. market practice), Zegna is required to explain the reasons for such non-compliance in its Dutch statutory annual report relating to the fiscal year under review.
While we intend to endorse the principles and best practice provisions of the DCGC, it is envisaged that Zegna will not apply certain best practice provisions of the DCGC, including the following:
• | Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello and Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello are both representatives of Monterubello and are appointed as Zegna Non-Executive Directors. Because of their affiliation with Monterubello, Zegna does not comply with best practice provision 2.1.7(iii) of the DCGC that requires that there is at most one Zegna Non-Executive Director who can be considered to be affiliated with a Shareholder who holds more than 10% of the Ordinary Shares. Zegna believes that it and all of its stakeholders benefit from both affiliates of Monterubello, especially in respect of their expertise and valuable knowledge of Zegna’s business and the industry Zegna operates in, which outweighs any perceived disadvantage of non-independence; |
• | the Chief Executive Officer has also been granted the title Chairperson but does not qualify as the chairperson within the meaning of the DCGC (for example best practice provision 2.3.6). In accordance with the Zegna Articles of Association and the Zegna Board Regulations, the Zegna Board has granted an independent Zegna Non-Executive Director the title Lead Non-Executive Director. The Lead Non-Executive Director serves as the chairperson of the Zegna Board under Dutch law and within the meaning of the DCGC (for example best practice provision 2.3.6). Consequently, Zegna is compliant with best practice provision 2.1.9 that requires the chairperson of the Zegna Board to be independent within the meaning of best practice provision 2.1.8 of the DCGC; |
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• | pursuant to the Zegna Articles of Association, the Zegna Directors are appointed for a term ending at the close of the first annual Zegna General Meeting following his or her appointment. Given these annual appointments, Zegna does not prepare a retirement schedule as referred to in best practice provision 2.2.4 of the DCGC; |
• | the Zegna Board has granted or intends to grant options and/or performance shares to the Chief Executive Officer as part of his remuneration. In deviation of best practice provision 3.1.2 of the DCGC, the options may be exercised within the first three years of their grant date, and the performance shares to be awarded to the Chief Executive Officer will not be subject to a five years holding period. Although in deviation of the DCGC, the foregoing is market practice among companies listed on the NYSE. As regards the Zegna Non-Executive Directors, it is envisaged that their remuneration will be payable 50% in cash and 50% in shares subject to a lock-up period of two years. The remuneration in the form of Ordinary Shares is in accordance with market practice among companies listed on the NYSE, although in deviation from suggested governance provision 3.3.2 of the DCGC; and |
• | the management services agreement of the Chief Executive Officer provides for (i) a severance payment in excess of one year base salary and (ii) a severance payment if such agreement is terminated, among other things, at the initiative of the Chief Executive Officer. These severance provisions are considered consistent with US market practice, although in deviation from suggested governance provision 3.2.3 of the DCGC. |
Exchange Controls
Under Dutch law, there are no exchange control restrictions on investments in, or payments on, the Ordinary Shares. There are no special restrictions in the Zegna Articles of Association or Dutch law that limit the right of shareholders who are not citizens or residents of the Netherlands to hold or vote the Ordinary Shares.
Warrants
Public Warrants
General
The Public Warrants are governed by the Warrant Agreement, as modified and amended by the Warrant Assumption and Amendment Agreement. Immediately following the Effective Time, there were 13,416,667 Public Warrants outstanding. Only whole Public Warrants may be exercised at a given time by warrant holders. Each whole Public Warrant entitles the holder thereof to purchase one (1) Ordinary Share at a price of $11.50 per share, subject to adjustment as described in Section 4 of the Warrant Agreement (as amended). Public Warrants may be exercised only during the period commencing on the date that is thirty (30) days after the Closing Date, and terminating at 5:00 p.m., Eastern Time on the earlier to occur of: (x) the date that is five (5) years after the date Closing Date, (y) the liquidation of Zegna, or (z) the redemption date as provided in the Warrant Agreement (as amended).
The Public Warrants will expire at 5:00 p.m., New York City time, on December 17, 2026 or earlier upon redemption or liquidation.
This summary of certain provisions of the Public Warrants does not purport to be complete and is subject to, and is qualified in its entirety by reference to the Warrant Agreement.
Adjustments
The exercise price and number of Ordinary Shares issuable on exercise of the Public Warrants will be adjusted in certain circumstances described in the Warrant Agreement (as amended), including in the event of a share dividend, extraordinary dividend or Zegna’s recapitalization, reorganization, merger or consolidation.
Whenever the number of Ordinary Shares purchasable upon the exercise of the Public Warrants is adjusted, the warrant exercise price will be adjusted by multiplying the warrant exercise price immediately prior to such adjustment by a fraction (x) the numerator of which will be the number of Ordinary Shares purchasable upon the exercise of the Public Warrants immediately prior to such adjustment, and (y) the denominator of which will be the number of Ordinary Shares so purchasable immediately thereafter.
If, by reason of any adjustment as described above, the holder of any Public Warrant would be entitled, upon the exercise of such Public Warrant, to receive a fractional interest in an Ordinary Share, we will, upon such exercise, round down to the nearest whole number the number of Ordinary Shares to be issued to such holder.
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Redemption of warrants when the price per Ordinary Share equals or exceeds $18.00
Pursuant to the Warrant Agreement (as amended), once the Public Warrants become exercisable, they may be redeemed (i) in whole and not in part, (ii) at a price of $0.01 per warrant, (iii) upon not less than 30 days’ prior written notice of redemption to each warrant holder, (iv) if, and only if, the last reported sale price of the Ordinary Shares equals or exceeds $18.00 per share (as adjusted for share splits, share dividends, reorganizations, recapitalizations and the like) for any 20 trading days within a 30-trading day period ending three trading days before sending the notice of redemption to each warrant holder, and (v) if, and only if, there is an effective registration statement covering the shares issuable upon exercise of the warrants and a current prospectus relating thereto is available throughout the 30-day period after the written notice of redemption is given. When the Public Warrants become redeemable, Zegna will be able to exercise its redemption right even if it is unable to register or qualify the underlying securities for sale under all applicable state securities laws.
Redemption of warrants when the price per Ordinary Share equals or exceeds $10.00
Once the Public Warrants become exercisable, they may be redeemed (i) in whole and not in part, (ii) at a price of $0.10 per warrant upon a minimum of 30 days’ prior written notice of redemption provided that warrant holders will be able to exercise their warrants on a cashless basis prior to redemption and receive a specified number of Ordinary Shares based on the redemption date and the “fair market value” of the Ordinary Shares, (iii) if, and only if, the last reported sale price of the Ordinary Shares equals or exceeds $10.00 per share (as adjusted for share splits, share dividends, reorganizations, recapitalizations and the like) for any 20 trading days within a 30-trading day period ending three trading days before sending the notice of redemption to each warrant holder, and (iv) if the last reported sale price of the Ordinary Shares is less than $18.00 per share (as adjusted for share splits, share dividends, reorganizations, recapitalizations and the like) for any 20 trading days within a 30-trading day period ending three trading days before sending the notice of redemption to each warrant holder, the Private Placement Warrants must also be concurrently called for redemption on the same terms as the outstanding Public Warrants.
For purposes of the foregoing, “fair market value” of the Ordinary Shares means the volume weighted average price of Ordinary Shares during the 10 trading days immediately following the date on which the notice of redemption is sent to the holders of warrants. Zegna will provide the warrant holders with the final fair market value no later than one business day after the 10 trading day period described above ends.
No Rights as a Shareholder
A Public Warrant does not entitle the holder to any of the rights of the Zegna shareholders, including, without limitation, the right to receive dividends, the right to vote or the right to receive notice as shareholders in respect of the meetings of shareholders or the election of Zegna Directors.
Private Placement Warrants
The Private Placement Warrants are governed by the New Warrant Agreement. Immediately following the Effective Time, there were 6,700,000 Private Placement Warrants outstanding.
The Private Placement Warrants are identical in terms to, and form part of the same class as, the Public Warrants, except that so long as the Private Placement Warrants are held by the IIAC Sponsor or its permitted transferees, the Private Placement Warrants (and the Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of these warrants) may not be transferred, assigned or sold until 30 days after the Closing, subject to certain limited exceptions. Additionally, the Private Placement Warrants may be exercised by the holders on a cashless basis and will not be redeemable (subject to certain limited exceptions), so long as they are held by the IIAC Sponsor or its permitted transferees. If the Private Placement Warrants are held by someone other than the IIAC Sponsor or its permitted transferees, such warrants will be redeemable and exercisable by such holders on the same basis as the Public Warrants.
The foregoing description of the Warrants is qualified in its entirety by reference to the full text of the Warrant Agreement (as amended), the Warrant Assumption and Amendment Agreement and the New Warrant Agreement.
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Registration Rights and Lock-Up Arrangements
Concurrently with the Closing, Zegna, the Zegna Initial Shareholders, the IIAC Sponsor and the IIAC Initial Shareholders (collectively, the “Holders”) entered into the Registration Rights Agreement, pursuant to which, among other things, the Holders have been granted certain registration rights with respect to certain Ordinary Shares and other equity securities of Zegna held by the Holders from time to time. Pursuant to the Registration Rights Agreement, Zegna has agreed to file a registration statement registering for resale certain Ordinary Shares and other equity securities of Zegna within 45 days after the Closing. At any time and from time to time after the expiration of any lock-up to which a Holder’s shares are subject, if any, any Holder will be able to request to sell all or a portion of its registrable securities in an underwritten offering so long as the aggregate gross proceeds from the offering are reasonably expected to exceed $50 million. Zegna will under no circumstances be obligated to effect (i) more than 3 underwritten offerings in the aggregate in respect of all registrable securities held by the Zegna Initial Shareholders or (ii) more than 3 underwritten offerings in the aggregate in respect of all registrable securities held by the IIAC Initial Shareholders. The Registration Rights Agreement also provides for customary “piggyback” registration rights, subject to certain requirements and customary cut-backs. The Registration Rights Agreement also contains customary provisions regarding indemnification and contribution.
Concurrently with the execution of the Business Combination Agreement, IIAC and Zegna entered into the PIPE Subscription Agreements with certain investors. The PIPE Subscription Agreements provide for certain customary registration rights. In particular, the PIPE Subscription Agreements provide that Zegna is required to file with the SEC a registration statement registering the resale of such shares as soon as practicable (but in any case within 45 calendar days following the Closing Date). Additionally, Zegna is required to use its commercially reasonable efforts to have the registration statement declared effective as soon as practicable after the filing thereof, but no later than the earlier of (i) the 30th calendar day (or the 90th calendar day if the SEC notifies Zegna that it will “review” the registration statement) following the filing date thereof and (ii) the 10th business day after the date Zegna is notified (orally or in writing, whichever is earlier) by the SEC that the registration statement will not be “reviewed” or will not be subject to further review. Zegna will use commercially reasonable efforts to keep the registration statement effective until the earliest of: (i) the third anniversary of the Closing; (ii) the date the subscribers cease to hold any shares issued pursuant to the PIPE Subscription Agreements (the “registrable shares”); or (iii) the date all registrable shares may be sold by the subscribers under Rule 144 within 90 days without the public information, volume or manner of sale limitations of such rule. The PIPE Subscription Agreements for the Insider PIPE Subscribers contain certain restrictions on transfer with respect to the shares issued pursuant to such PIPE Subscription Agreements immediately following the Closing. Such restrictions began at the Closing and will end on the date that is twelve (12) months after the Closing.
Under the terms of the Warrant Agreement and the New Warrant Agreement, Zegna is required to use commercially reasonable efforts to file with the SEC a registration statement covering the issuance of Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of the Warrants as soon as practicable, but in no event later than 20 business days after the Closing. Zegna is required to use commercially reasonable efforts to have the registration statement declared effective within 60 business days of the Closing and to maintain the effectiveness of such registration statement and a current prospectus relating to Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of the Warrants until the expiration or redemption of the Warrants in accordance with the provisions of the Warrant Agreement and New Warrant Agreement, as applicable.
Concurrently with the Closing, the Zegna Initial Shareholders, the IIAC Sponsor and the IIAC Initial Shareholders entered into the Zegna Shareholders Lock-Up Agreement and the IIAC Sponsor Lock-Up Agreement, as applicable, with Zegna. Pursuant to the Zegna Shareholders Lock-Up Agreement, the Zegna Initial Shareholders have agreed, among other things, not to sell, transfer or otherwise dispose of any Ordinary Shares owned by them (excluding any shares acquired in the PIPE Financing) until the earlier of (a) the date that is 18 months from the Closing Date and (b) the last trading day on which the volume weighted average share price of the Ordinary Shares equals or exceeds $12.50 per share for at least 20 trading days within any period of 30 consecutive trading days, commencing at least 180 days after the Closing Date. Pursuant to the IIAC Sponsor Lock-Up Agreement, subject to certain exceptions, the IIAC Sponsor and the IIAC Initial Shareholders have agreed, among other things, not to sell, transfer or otherwise dispose of any Ordinary Shares or Warrants acquired in connection with the Business Combination in exchange for Class B Shares, Class A Shares subscribed for pursuant to the Forward Purchase Agreement and IIAC Private Placement Warrants, as applicable (excluding any shares acquired in the PIPE Financing), for a period of 180 days following the Closing Date, in each case other than pursuant to certain customary exceptions; provided that, subject to certain adjustments: (i) the IIAC Sponsor (together with any other IIAC affiliates) will maintain beneficial ownership of a number of Ordinary Shares representing at least (a) 80% of the IIAC Sponsor’s initial stake immediately following the Closing (excluding, for the avoidance of doubt, Ordinary Shares acquired in the PIPE Financing) for a period of at least 18 months following the Closing Date, and (b) 40% of the IIAC Sponsor’s initial stake immediately following the Closing (excluding, for the avoidance of doubt, Ordinary Shares acquired in the PIPE Financing) for a period of at least 36 months following the Closing Date.
Shareholders Agreement
Concurrently with the Closing, Zegna, Monterubello, Ermenegildo Zegna and the IIAC Sponsor entered into the Shareholders Agreement, pursuant to which, among other things, for so long as the Sponsor Group satisfies the Minimum Holding Requirement, (i) the parties thereto will, and will cause their respective controlled affiliates to, exercise their rights and powers such that the Sponsor Nominee will only be (a) suspended as a Zegna Director if so requested in writing by the IIAC Sponsor unless the Board reasonably determined that not suspending the Sponsor Nominee would be in breach of the Zegna Board’s fiduciary duties and
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(b) dismissed as a Zegna Director if so requested in writing by the IIAC Sponsor or in the case of fraud or willful misconduct in the performance of the Sponsor Nominee’s office as a Zegna Non-Executive Director, (ii) Zegna will offer the Sponsor Nominee the opportunity to be proposed to the Zegna Board for appointment to serve on the Audit Committee and/or the Compensation Committee and (iii) the IIAC Sponsor will have the right to participate in certain capital raises of Zegna on the terms and subject to the exceptions contained in the Shareholders Agreement.
For so long as the Sponsor Group satisfies the Minimum Holding Requirement and subject to the conditions contained in the Shareholders Agreement, Zegna will also (i) consult with the IIAC Sponsor and solicit and consider its views in good faith before (a) entering into any major, transformative acquisition involving a merger with a similarly situated fashion or luxury goods company or (b) determining to pay an extraordinary cash dividend, and (ii) provide access to senior representatives of the IIAC Sponsor to interact with (a) the Chief Financial Officer and Chief Operating Officer of Zegna monthly and (b) the Chief Executive Officer of Zegna quarterly, in each case to ask questions about the affairs of Zegna, provided that, in each case, neither Zegna nor its senior representatives shall be under any obligation to disclose any confidential or non-public information.
Listing of Securities
The Ordinary Shares and the Public Warrants are listed on NYSE under the symbols “ZGN” and “ZGN WS,” respectively. Holders of Ordinary Shares and Public Warrants should obtain current market quotations for their securities.
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CERTAIN RELATIONSHIPS AND RELATED PARTY TRANSACTIONS
The related parties of the Group are all entities and individuals, including their close family members, capable of exercising control, joint control or significant influence over the Group and its subsidiaries, including the Group’s controlling shareholder, Monterubello, as well as other companies owned by Monterubello and its shareholders. Related parties also include Zegna’s associates and joint arrangements, members of the Zegna Board and executives with strategic responsibilities, as well as their families and entities controlled by them.
The Group carries out transactions with related parties on commercial terms that are normal in the respective markets, considering the characteristics of the goods or services involved.
Transactions carried out by the Group with these related parties are primarily of a commercial and financial nature and mainly relate to:
Transactions with associates
• | Transactions with Tom Ford related to (i) a licensing agreement for the production and worldwide distribution of luxury men’s ready to wear and made to measure clothing, footwear and accessories under the Tom Ford label, (ii) financial assets related to loans to Tom Ford, and (iii) financial guarantees provided to Tom Ford in relation to its payment obligations under a bank loan for an amount of $7,500 thousand issued to Tom Ford in 2020 and maturing in March 2025. |
• | The purchase of raw materials, in particular carded yarns from Filati Biagioli Modesto |
Transactions with companies controlled by Monterubello or its shareholders, Zegna directors or senior management
• | The purchase of raw materials, in particular of wool, from Gruppo Schneider S.p.A. |
• | The purchase of industrial services, in particular of fabrics’ finishing, from Finissaggio e Tintoria Ferraris S.p.A. |
• | The purchase of industrial services from Pettinatura di Verrone S.r.l. |
• | Transactions with PKB Privatbank AG relating to an interest-bearing loan amounting to Euro 5,000 thousand expiring in March 2022. |
• | The Disposition of certain of its businesses, through the statutory demerger under Italian law to a new company owned by its existing shareholders. The Disposition included, inter alia, Zegna’s real estate business, consisting of Zegna’s former subsidiary EZ Real Estate, which directly and indirectly holds substantially all of the real estate assets formerly owned by the Zegna group, as well as certain properties previously owned by Lanificio Zegna. Most of the real estate properties directly or indirectly owned by EZ Real Estate were, and continue to be, leased to Zegna also following the Disposition. Zegna pays rent to EZ Real Estate or its subsidiaries under lease agreements. In addition, following the Disposition, Zegna has entered into arrangements whereby Oasi Zegna provides licensing, marketing and other sustainability-related services to Zegna. |
• | As part of the Disposition, on January 14, 2021, the Group sold 70% of its equity stake in Agnona to a related party for consideration of Euro 1 and as a result Agnona was deconsolidated from the beginning of the year and became a related party of the Group. The Group subsequently disposed of the remaining 30% stake in Agnona during September and October 2021 for total consideration of Euro 500 thousand. Following the initial disposal of Agnona, the Group sold products and recharged costs for services to Agnona, as well as compensated amounts related to losses incurred by Agnona subsequent to the Group’s sale of a majority stake in accordance with the terms of the related sale agreement. |
• | Following the Disposition, the payment of rent to EZ Real Estate or its subsidiaries under lease agreements for the use of properties. |
• | Support to the activities of Fondazione Zegna, a charitable organization which provides an opportunity for charitable work on the part of the Zegna family and Group employees. Fondazione Zegna supports and funds projects in cooperation with non-profit organizations operating in various fields and different parts of the world. |
• | Put contracts entered into as part of the Group’s investments in Thom Browne and Lanificio Zegna whereby the Group has been required to, and may in the future be required to, purchase all or a portion of the remaining non-controlling interests in Thom Browne and Lanificio Zegna. For additional information relating to the put contracts please refer to Note 34—Other non-current financial liabilities to the Consolidated Financial Statements. |
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Transactions related to the Business Combination
In connection with the closing of the Business Combination and the public listing of Zegna (as further described in Note 1 - General information to the Consolidated Financial Statements), Zegna entered into various transactions with Monterubello and other shareholders and related parties, including the following:
• | The repurchase by Zegna of 54,600,000 of its own shares from Monterubello for total consideration of Euro 455,000 thousand. |
The reimbursement to Zegna by Monterubello of a special gift to all employees of the Group for an amount of Euro 10,923 thousand.
• | The issuance of 800,000 private warrants to certain Zegna non-executive directors, for which the Group recognized personnel costs of Euro 1,263 thousand and an offsetting increase to other reserves within equity for the year ended December 31, 2021. |
• | The grant of equity-settled share-based payments to key management. |
In connection with the Business Combination, certain of Zegna’s related parties (including certain directors and officers and affiliates of Monterubello) entered into PIPE Subscription Agreements with Zegna pursuant to which they subscribed for Ordinary Shares at the closing of the Business Combination. The amount of each such subscription was immaterial. Under the terms of the PIPE Subscription Agreements, such related parties are entitled to certain registration rights in respect of their Ordinary Shares. In addition, at the Closing of the Business Combination, Zegna entered into certain agreements with related parties, including the Shareholders Agreement, the Zegna Shareholders Lock-Up Agreement, the IIAC Sponsor Lock-Up Agreement and the Registration Rights Agreement. For a description of such agreements, see “Description of Securities”.
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The following table sets forth information relating to the beneficial ownership of our Ordinary Shares as of March 30, 2022, based on the information in Zegna’s shareholder register and other sources available to us, by: each person who is known to be the beneficial owner of more than 5% of our issued and outstanding Ordinary Shares; and each of the Zegna Directors and senior managers.
Monterubello is the controlling shareholder of Zegna through its 61.8% shareholding interest in Zegna’s issued and outstanding Ordinary Shares (as of March 30, 2022).
Beneficial ownership is determined according to the rules of the SEC, which generally provide that a person has beneficial ownership of a security if he, she or it possesses sole or shared voting or investment power over that security, including options and warrants that are currently exercisable or exercisable within 60 days.
The percentages in the table below are computed on the basis of 242,343,659 Ordinary Shares issued and outstanding and do not include the Ordinary Shares issuable upon the exercise of the Warrants. The denominators used in calculating the percentage of beneficial ownership of each of Strategic Holdings Group S.à r.l. and Mr. Sergio P. Ermotti include the Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of the Private Placement Warrants held by each such beneficial owner.
Beneficial Owner | Number of Ordinary Shares | % of Outstanding | ||||||
>5% holders | ||||||||
Monterubello s.s.(1) | 149,734,550 | 61.8 | % | |||||
Strategic Holding Group S.à r.l.(2) | 36,184,446 | (3) | 14.6 | % | ||||
Zegna Directors | ||||||||
Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello | 5,246,800 | (4) | 2.2 | % | ||||
Andrea C. Bonomi | — | — | ||||||
Angelica Cheung | — | — | ||||||
Domenico De Sole | 120,000 | (5) | ( | *) | ||||
Sergio P. Ermotti | 1,469,688 | (6) | ( | *) | ||||
Ronald B. Johnson | 120,000 | (7) | ( | *) | ||||
Valerie A. Mars | 120,000 | (8) | ( | *) | ||||
Michele Norsa | 120,000 | (9) | ( | *) | ||||
Henry Peter | 420,000 | (10) | ( | *) | ||||
Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello | 150,000 | (11) | ( | *) | ||||
Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello | 240,000 | (12) | ( | *) | ||||
Zegna Senior Managers | ||||||||
Gianluca Ambrogio Tagliabue | 30,000 | (13) | ( | *) | ||||
Rodrigo Bazan | — | — | ||||||
Thom Browne | 200,000 | (14) | ( | *) | ||||
Franco Ferraris | — | — | ||||||
Alessandro Sartori | 30,000 | (15) | ( | *) |
(*) | Less than 1% of the shares outstanding. |
(1) | Monterubello is an Italian società semplice whose quotas are currently held by members of the Zegna family. The directors of Monterubello, as of the Closing Date, were Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello (chairman of the board of directors), Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello (vice chairman of the board of directors), Renata Zegna di Monte Rubello, Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello, Giovanni Schneider, Stefano Aimone and Alessandro Andrea Trabaldo Togna. |
(2) | Based on filings with the SEC (Schedule 13G filed on February 8, 2022, File No. 005-93353): Strategic Holding Group S.à r.l. is governed by a five-member board of managers, which at the time of the SEC filing included Kamel Aliat, Amélie Flammia, Marvin Martins, Alex Browning and Natalie Ramsden; action by the five-member board of managers is by simple majority vote; and no individual manager on the board of managers has voting or dispositive control over the reported securities and, therefore, no individual manager has or shares beneficial ownership of such securities. |
(3) | Includes 3,490,000 PIPE Shares and 5,230,000 Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of an equal number of Private Placement Warrants that are exercisable within 60 days of March 30, 2022. Excludes 4,276,563 Escrowed Shares which will be held in escrow until the satisfaction of the relevant release conditions or lapse of the prescribed period of time. As long as any such Escrowed Shares are held in escrow Strategic Holding Group S.à r.l.’s voting and economic rights shall be restricted. |
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(4) | Includes 420,000 PIPE Shares. Excludes 600,000 Ordinary Shares which may be granted upon vesting of the performance-based share awards which were granted following the closing of the Business Combination. |
(5) | Represents 120,000 PIPE Shares. |
(6) | Includes 120,000 PIPE Shares and 670,000 Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of an equal number of Private Placement Warrants that are exercisable within 60 days of March 30, 2022. |
(7) | Represents 120,000 PIPE Shares. |
(8) | Represents 120,000 PIPE Shares. |
(9) | Represents 120,000 PIPE Shares. |
(10) | Represents 420,000 PIPE Shares. |
(11) | Represents 150,000 PIPE Shares. |
(12) | Represents 240,000 PIPE Shares. |
(13) | Represents 30,000 PIPE Shares. |
(14) | Represents 200,000 PIPE Shares held by Thom Browne Revocable Trust. |
(15) | Represents 30,000 PIPE Shares. |
Based on the information in Zegna’s shareholder register, as of March 30, 2022, 41,236,059 Ordinary Shares were held in the United States. As of the same date, 35 record holders had registered addresses in the United States.
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This prospectus relates to the possible offer and sale from time to time of up to 231,623,100 Ordinary Shares and up to 6,700,000 Private Placement Warrants by the selling securityholders.
The selling securityholders may from time to time offer and sell any or all of the Ordinary Shares or Private Placement Warrants set forth below pursuant to this prospectus. When we refer to the “selling securityholders” in this prospectus, we mean the persons listed in the tables below, and the pledgees, donees, transferees, assignees, successors and others who later come to hold any of the selling securityholders’ interest in our securities after the date of this prospectus.
The following table is prepared based on information provided to us by the selling securityholders. The table below sets forth, as of the date of this prospectus, the name of the selling securityholders for which we are registering Ordinary Shares and/or Private Placement Warrants for resale to the public and the aggregate principal amount that the selling securityholders may offer pursuant to this prospectus. Unless otherwise indicated, the individuals and entities listed below have beneficial ownership over their respective securities. We have based percentage ownership prior to this offering on 242,343,659 Ordinary Shares and 6,700,000 Private Placement Warrants outstanding, in each case as of December 31, 2021; however, the denominators used in calculating the percentage of beneficial ownership of each of Strategic Holding Group S.à r.l. and Sergio P. Ermotti include the Ordinary Shares issuable upon exercise of the Private Placement Warrants held by each such beneficial owner.
The SEC has defined “beneficial ownership” of a security to mean the possession, directly or indirectly, of voting power and/or investment power over such security. A shareholder is also deemed to be, as of any date, the beneficial owner of all securities that such shareholder has the right to acquire within 60 days after that date through (i) the exercise of any option, warrant or right, (ii) the conversion of a security, (iii) the power to revoke a trust, discretionary account or similar arrangement, or (iv) the automatic termination of a trust, discretionary account or similar arrangement. In computing the number of shares beneficially owned by a person and the percentage ownership of that person, Ordinary Shares subject to options or other rights (as set forth above) held by that person that are currently exercisable, or will become exercisable within 60 days thereafter, are deemed outstanding, while such shares are not deemed outstanding for purposes of computing percentage ownership of any other person.
The Ordinary Shares and the Private Placement Warrants held by certain of the selling securityholders are subject to transfer restrictions, as described in the section titled “Shares Eligible For Future Sale”.
We cannot advise you as to whether the selling securityholders will in fact sell any or all of such securities. In addition, the selling securityholders may sell, transfer or otherwise dispose of, at any time and from time to time, the securities in transactions exempt from the registration requirements of the Securities Act after the date of this prospectus, subject to applicable law.
Selling securityholder information for each additional selling securityholder, if any, will be set forth by prospectus supplement to the extent required prior to the time of any offer or sale of such selling securityholder’s securities pursuant to this prospectus. Any prospectus supplement may add, update, substitute, or change the information contained in this prospectus, including the identity of each selling securityholder and the number of Ordinary Shares or Private Placement Warrants registered on its behalf. A selling securityholder may sell all, some or none of such securities in this offering. See the section titled “Plan of Distribution”.
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The shares owned by the persons named below do not have voting rights different from the shares owned by other holders. Unless otherwise indicated, the business address of each beneficial owner listed in the tables below is c/o Ermenegildo Zegna N.V., Viale Roma 99/100, 13835, Valdilana loc. Trivero, Italy.
Name of Selling Securityholder | Ordinary Shares Beneficially Owned Prior to the Offering | Private Placement Warrants Beneficially Owned Prior to Offering | Number of Ordinary Shares Being Offered | Number of Private Placement Warrants Being Offered | Ordinary Shares Beneficially Owned After the Ordinary Shares are Sold | Private Placement Warrants Beneficially Owned After the Warrants are Sold | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Number | % | Number | % | Number | % | Number | % | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Monterubello s.s.(1) | 149,734,550 | 61.8 | % | — | — | 149,734,550 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Strategic Holding Group | 36,184,446 | 14.6 | % | 5,230,000 | 78.1 | % | 39,773,125 | 5,230,000 | 687,884 | * | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Certain funds and accounts of T Rowe Price(3) | 10,000,000 | 4.1 | % | — | — | 10,000,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Certain funds and accounts of Invesco(4) | 5,500,000 | 2.3 | % | — | — | 5,500,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ermenegildo Zegna di Monte Rubello(5) | 5,246,800 | 2.2 | % | — | — | 5,246,800 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Investment Corporation of Dubai(6) | 3,000,000 | 1.2 | % | — | — | 3,000,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Patrizio Bertelli(7) | 2,500,000 | 1.0 | % | — | — | 2,500,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Exor N.V.(8) | 2,500,000 | 1.0 | % | — | — | 2,500,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Banca del Ceresio SA(9) | 2,500,000 | 1.0 | % | — | — | 2,500,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Felofin S.p.A.(10) | 1,500,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 1,500,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Sergio P. Ermotti(11) | 1,469,688 | ( | *) | 770,000 | 11.4 | % | 2,249,375 | 770,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Yarpa Special Opportunities 4 Srl(12) | 1,000,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 1,000,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
DDS and Associates LLC(13) | 838,650 | ( | *) | — | — | 838,650 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Matteo Mambretti(14) | 500,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 500,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Henry Peter(15) | 420,000 | ( | *) | 100,000 | 1.5 | % | 520,000 | 100,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Antara Capital Total Return SPAC Master Fund LP(16) | 70,600 | ( | *) | — | — | 70,600 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Iceberg Zegna Holdings LLC(17) | 250,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 250,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Elridge Enterprises Corporation(18) | 250,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 250,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Lovat International Inc.(19) | 250,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 250,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Paolo Zegna di Monte Rubello(20) | 240,000 | ( | *) | 100,000 | 1.5 | % | 340,000 | 100,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Edoardo Zegna di Monte Rubello(21) | 200,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 200,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thom Browne Revocable Trust(22) | 200,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 200,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Tom Ford(23) | 200,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 200,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Cofi SA(24) | 200,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 200,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Benedict J. Sciortino(25) | 200,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 200,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Anna Zegna di Monte Rubello(26) | 150,000 | ( | *) | 100,000 | 1.5 | % | 250,000 | 100,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Domenico De Sole(27) | 120,000 | ( | *) | 100,000 | 1.5 | % | 220,000 | 100,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Michele Norsa(28) | 120,000 | ( | *) | 100,000 | 1.5 | % | 220,000 | 100,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ronald B Johnson(29) | 120,000 | ( | *) | 100,000 | 1.5 | % | 220,000 | 100,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Valerie Anne Mars(30) | 120,000 | ( | *) | 100,000 | 1.5 | % | 220,000 | 100,000 | — | — | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bootes Srl(31) | 120,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 120,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Angelo Zegna di Monte Rubello(32) | 100,000 | ( | *) | — | — | 100,000 | — | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Umberto Giovine(33) | 100,000 | ( | *) |